Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/27/20 in all areas

  1. 18 points
    This was turned from a single piece of cocobolo 8 ½” square by 17/4. The surface is sanded to P1200, but with no coatings, just au naturale. With successive convolved designs I have been looking at what happens when the contour lines of the upright and basin are altered. With Sedona the upright and basin are both formed from straight lines. In many ways this shape was the most difficult convolved form to design, engineer and make that I have done so far. For one thing I had to be very particular about the acute angle in the corners. It’s about 40 degrees reflecting the fact that my diamond detail tool is 36 degrees, so about as tight a space as I could work in. Access for hollowing also narrowly limits the possible positions for the upright and basin walls. And quite honestly it is a lot more difficult to make a surface straight rather than curved.
  2. 13 points
    I started a new project/adventure yesterday. Of the four, my 10 year old grand daughter is the grand kid that has always shown the desire to learn woodworking, she is also the youngest. The intelligent questions that come out of her mouth can stun a college professor. So I decided to ask her what she would like to build, you know bird house, napkin holder, those kind of things. Nope, that wasn't going to work, she said with no hesitation I want to build a coffee table for my mom and dad. So that is the project. We spent some time looking at pictures of coffee tables on the internet, after we got some ideas we drew up a design and I showed her how to make a cut list. Then off to the lumber yard. Yesterday in the shop we rough cut all the pieces, jointed and planned them and then stickered them for a couple of days. She is a quick learner and understands the process of being safe so when I took each of these pictures I had her turn the tool off so I could take the picture with out worrying about her safety at the same time. When she was putting pieces through the planer, my wife took the pictures because I was catching for her. The only thing my grand daughter didn't want to do was running the pieces through the jointer so I did that for her and I was glad that she was willing to make a decision like that instead of thinking she "had to" do everything. Laying out parts with a her tape measure and caulk. Rough cut to length with the jig saw. Ripping to rough width at the band saw. Running things through the planer. And Stickering.
  3. 12 points
    Made this one out of Red Gum for the granddaughter, hidden behind the drawer is a musical movement that starts and stops when the drawer is opened, the movement is from http://www.themusichouse.com , if you haven't had a chance to make a music box these are the best people to deal with, awesome folks and a wide selection of movements. not continuous grain all around just 3 corners, the wood is a little thick for my taste but this stuff warps pretty easy and i was getting some bad chip out on the planer so i quit while i was ahead. the drawer box is Sapele, finish is ARS, 3 coats, as always thanks for looking folks, comments-questions are welcome, a special thanks to @Coop for setting me straight on the hinges, these look much better than what i had been doing, just messing with you coop but thanks, i re-learned how to cut mortices with a chisel
  4. 9 points
    Those who know me know I’m pretty frugal when it comes to tools, I have to really need it and going to use it before I lay out any cash but these from Harry Epstein are earning their keep already. The Veritas wheel marking gauge is a joy to use and the 4”, 6” and 12” squares are right on, couldn’t resist making boxes for the 4 and 6, one all butternut and one quarter sawn sycamore and walnut, the butternut one is a gift for my son
  5. 8 points
    Not quite 4 weeks ago, a good friend, Rita, brought along an entrance hall table she wanted me to fit a drawer into ... (Note that these photos were taken in my entrance hall, not Rita's). It was really a boring ... okay, ugly table. I thought that the proportions were completely ugh, and the legs reminded me of detention in a classroom. The table had been a kerbside salvage by her late husband, a close friend of mine, and a very good woodworker in his own right. It had been used as a work table. Rita had just moved into a new home, and the table was used because the width of the top fitted an alcove in the entrance hall. I said to Rita that I would re-build the table. "But I must have a drawer", Rita emphasised. The wood was good Jarrah. The first step was to pull it apart. This was not so easy as simply unscrewing the clips for the top ... Some evil tablemaker had used a nail gun to attach the corner blocks. Pulling them out left holes in the legs. The legs were attached with dowels. I would never have guessed as the construction was very strong. Pulling them away caused some of the wood to tear along with it. No way to remove them other than saw the ends away. Deconstructed ... Let's begin again .. I thought that I would do something different with this write-up. Turn it around and start with the finished piece. That's right ... the table rebuild is complete. This will provide a picture of the end result, and we can then look at how certain parts were built. This way around might create a better understanding of where the build was going, and how it got there. In particular, the drawer. The drawer is a little beauty. I did scratch my head over the construction. No doubt it has been done before, but I could not find any pictures of another like it. I am sure there will be interest in the design. I am chuffed with the efficiency of it. More on this in the next article. For now, here is the completed table. The legs have been brought inward, tapered, and a 3 degree splay added to the sides. The top retained its width (I was threatened with death, or worse, if it was shortened) but was made shallower. A slight camber was added front-and-back to soften the outline ... The apron was also made shallower. The original was 100mm (4") high. It is now 65mm (2 1/2") high. Oy .. where's the drawer gone?! I could have sworn it was there yesterday. Aah ... there it is ... This is the drawer case ... With drawer inserted - you need to get close up to see the joins .. It opens with a pull under the drawer .. The drawer is shallow, of course, it is just for house keys and the odd remote control. It is just 45mm (1 3/4") high on the outside and 26mm (1") deep inside. The full dimensions are 230mm (9") wide and 280mm (11") deep ... The sides are 7mm thick. The drawer front is 18mm (roughly 3/4"). To maximise the internal height, the drawer bottom was attached with a groove into the drawer sides rather than using slips. Slips would have used a precious extra 3mm (1/8"). So they 6mm (1/4") drawer bottom has a 3mm rebate, fitting a 3mm groove. The sides and bottom are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, which is very stable and tough. One screw at the rear, with an expansion slot, to hold it firmly. A nice, tight drawer ... It slides in-and-out smoothly. I love that it disappears and is hidden. More on the construction next time, but feel free to ask questions. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 8 points
    I had a request for a mountain scene cutting board, laser engraved with names and wedding date. I've done a few of these and they come out looking nice but I doubt one ever gets used for anything exception kitchen art! I drew the original design in CorelDraw where I exported it as an svg to bring into Fusion 360. From there I did the CAD/CAM work to cut the Maple, Walnut, and Cherry. These pieces are about 3/8" thick and the backer board is about 7/8" thick. Everything is glued with TB III and the feet are silicone with SS screws and washers, so everything is FDA approved. After cutting the mountain scene and gluing it to the backer board it goes to the table saw for trimming to size and then to the router table for rounding the edge. I do the names and date in CorelDraw and take that file to the laser shop for engraving. That way they don't have to do anything except load the file and start the laser machine. It's finished in mineral oil with Beeswax (our own mix), even though it'll probably just be eye candy for the kitchen. Sky, mountain, foreground blanks; I picked Walnut with some sapwood to look like snowcapped and some in the foreground - Blanks glued - Blanks glued to backer board - Engraving in the laser - Finished cutting board - Enjoy! David
  7. 7 points
    Finished! The bed is based on the Greene and Greene bed in the Gamble house. The house and the furniture were designed a built by the brothers. I did a modification to the foot board, because I'm 6' tall and tall foot boards are bothersome. Finished with shellac and wax. African Mahogany, Gaboon veneered center panel, and Danizia pegs and splines. I used the plans by Martin McClendon from FWW Jan/Feb 2013. I really liked that he used six spindles on each side for the queen sized bed, four just don't look right to me. Happy 4th! Sorry not a full project journal.
  8. 7 points
  9. 7 points
    Just the spray gun, not the power unit, came in the mail today. I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to spraying finish having only used a conversion gun and air compressor in the past which- so so results, with a HUGE mess and huge waste of finishing product. So I'm excited to try this out. I brushed in two coats of poly onto a recent project and am going to spray the final coat.
  10. 7 points
    Marcy discovered that she doesn't need a ladder to trim the tall bush. I discovered that it costs $15 to have a hard drive destroyed, but it's more than $15 worth of fun to take one apart.
  11. 7 points
    None of them are worth preserving. As long as you are having fun, just put in as much effort as you see fit. With a view to make them usable, just get them clean so rust and dirt does not transfer to your work. You may also find the standard irons are just fine, especially if you plan to use normal timber. If you add up your time spent restoring them, along with the sundries required it may be more logical to buy new. However I find bringing life back to an old tool an enjoyable distraction. This recent saw cost me £1 and took one hour to sort out.
  12. 6 points
    The drawer - part 1 It was my intention from the outset to hide the drawer as best as possible. This required that the drawer not have a pull or handle visible on the outside. To achieve this end, the drawer would need to be opened from the underside. Issue: Opening from the underside meant that the drawer would need to rest in a case which was open from below. Without a case bottom (i.e. drawer blades) on which the drawer could rest, the common method for a drawer would be a form of side hang. There are two methods for a side hung drawer that I know of, and I dislike both of them intensely! Partly because they require thick drawer sides, which lack aesthetic appeal for me. The first is a wooden slide (ugh!) which requires grooving the outside of the drawer sides ... The second method involves a metal slide (double ugh!!), which is ugly and belongs in a kitchen ... In the end I decided that I could build a drawer case with drawer blades open at the front. I have not seen anything like this before, but I live a sheltered life. I doubt this is original ... just re-inventing the wheel. There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. The drawer size and design The drawer is 230mm (9") wide and 280mm (11") deep. The width represents one third of the length of the apron. This works well since the depth of the drawer needs to be greater than the width to avoid racking. Racking would not be an issue if there were side slides (ugh!), but we are avoiding those thingies. Note the lip on the underside of the drawer front ... See the drawer lining up with the apron ... going ... going .. ... gone ... That lip is the drawer pull, and it doubles as the drawer stop. The drawer case Let's make the face of the drawer case. The original aprons were 100mm high. The new apron was to be 65mm, which was the height I calculated (with a life size drawing on a MDF sheet). The 65mm height included the drawer front, which would be 45mm high. That would leave a 20mm rail above the drawer. The first step here is to rip away 45mm from the original apron ... These two sections are jointed so that they may be perfectly flush once glued back together, and no join evident. The jointing was done on my large shooting board ... The drawer front is marked off - with a knife, not a pencil - from the centre of the 45mm wide board ... And then the drawer front is crosscut on the table saw. The cut area is covered in blue tape to minimise spelching ... We are now left with four sections - the wide top, the two lower side sections, and the middle drawer front. The sections are glued back (taking care not to glue the drawer front back!) ... Once the glue has dried, plane the board flat ... Did you see it before? Now the board is ripped down to 65mm, leaving a 20mm rail above the drawer front. Here you can see the front and rear aprons. They have also been cut to length, given a tenon at each end. The apron tenons are angled 3 degrees for the splayed legs ... Part 2 will complete the drawer. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 6 points
    A super bandsaw box tutorial, watched this and was making boxes in a flash. Great technique if you haven't seen it before. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/06/07/episode-1-introduction-make-beautiful-bandsawn-boxes I grabbed a few chunks of wood and instant boxes; Thanks for looking.
  14. 6 points
    More experiments in tablesaw turning: Seems to have come out OK. Definitely better to use the outer plates of my dado stack, stiffness resists side loading. Last time, someone suggested that spinning the work from the central pivot would be safer. I tried just turning the wing nut that holds the rotating parts together when I cut the outside. After losing the feeling in my thumb for a week, I made this Q&D tee handle for doing the inside. Much better!
  15. 6 points
    Pressure washed the deck. My wife WE should pressure wash the deck Me ok I'll get it out for you while I clean your pool filters... Wife OK I just finished pressure washing the deck ... apparently this is my wife's idea of WE cleaning the deck. I'm really glad she looks comfortable reading her book
  16. 5 points
    Her Mom, my oldest used to hang out with me in the shop with me, although at that time the "shop" wasn't nearly what it is now. We built some nice projects together. I would say that she listened to what I was saying back then because when she was in college part of her major required her to take a shop class were they learned how to make theater sets. We heard through the grape vine from the college that on a couple of occasions our daughter informed the instructor that "there was a safer way to do that".
  17. 5 points
    Gosh this page is just pure tool porn. I can't look any more! I haven't bought much lately in woodworking tools but did get this nice chronograph for measuring bullet speed.
  18. 5 points
    I re-upped today for another tour of duty. Plan was that tomorrow was to be my last day at work. I hashed out a deal with the new owner that I will work 3 days a week for two weeks a month instead of for 3 weeks a month. 11 days off, 3 at work, 11 days off, etc. . Instead of full retirement, I kinda did it for my wife’s sanity as well as my own!
  19. 5 points
    Not a lot to show for the day but she learned how to do some different things. First she ripped the top pieces to width for glue up. Then did some layout for dominos to help with the glue up. Then she practiced using the domino machine on some scraps. Then on to the real thing. Applying glue... ...and into the clamps. After this she practiced cutting curves on the band saw and cleaning them up, first with the spindle sander. and then using a spoke shave. After that and some lunch, we took the top out of the clamps and cleaned up some squeeze out and then ran it through the drum sander, I didn't get any pictures of that. She learned how to do an epoxy fill on some small knots in the top. And she learned that everyday, at the end of the day the shop gets cleaned up.
  20. 5 points
    Got another part of my Father's Day gift from my son today. These little drop shipments are like Christmas over and over again. Veritas from Lee Valley. Seems like it will work ok. Won't win any style points, but will mark lines 
  21. 5 points
    Not in the mail but I picked up a little chisel plane from Woodcraft since they have them on sale right now.
  22. 5 points
    Then I came home and did a little project I've been meaning to do - gun vise. This one is a prototype based off a plan I found on the net. Has a little cam wedgie thing on the butt end to hold the rifle in place. It works, but it could be better. I got what I paid for with the plans Later, better versions are already in my head.
  23. 4 points
    There are four parts to the drawer build: the drawer size and design, the drawer case, fitting the drawer case, and the drawer. Part 1 described the drawer size and design, and the apron of the drawer case. Part 2 describes the rest. We ended Part 1 here. That is the apron and opening to the drawer case .. This is where the build ended ... The drawer case and its fitting I scratched my head for a week how to do this. How to get the case to support drawer blades. I did not want a heavy, complicated arrangement, one which ran the danger of protruding below the table and might be seen at a distance. It needed to be lean and mean. To be elegant. A design to be appreciated by myself and you. This is what I came up with .. The case sides were grooved 3mm (1/8") ... .. and matched with a rebated section which would form the 6mm (~1/4") thick drawer blade ... The thickness of each blade is the same as the depth of the lip on the drawer front (which doubles as a drawer pull). This depth is significant. The reason for the rebate arrangement is to get the blade as low as possible on the case side. Recall that the front of the blade acts as a drawer stop as well, and must be coplanar with the lower edge of the drawer lip. The side/blades are fitted to the rear of the apron with a mortice-and-tenon joint ... This was definitely a tricky joint to do and it needed to be precisely positioned so that the entry lined up with the sides ... precisely! Here is what it would look like with the drawer front inserted ... To aid with alignment, I made a MDF pattern ... Here's the fun bit - aligning the case with the front and rear aprons, to mark out the rear mortices ... The pattern is inserted and a straight edge is attached to the front apron to prevent flexing ... A lot of repeat measurements are taken on the rear apron before I am satisfied it is square and equal front-and-back. This is the result ... By-the-way, note the biscuit joiner-made slots for attaching the table top. The drawer The drawer build was fairly straight forward. The usual half-blind fronts and through dovetail rears. Transferring tails to pins on the Moxon ... The sides were grooved rather than using slips. This was to save the extra 3mm height needed for the slips (saving as much height as possible for inside the drawer). 3mm grooves .. Matching groove in the drawer front ... Below is the stage of glueing up the drawer carcase. You know that it is all coplanar and square (essential for a piston fit) when the dovetail at each end just drop neatly into the matching sockets ... The 6mm thick drawer bottom receives a 3mm rebate. This was made with a moving fillester, and then fine-tuned with a shoulder plane ... The drawer fits well and needs minimal tuning. Got to use the newly-made drawer-planing fixture ... Two items added: a very fine chamfer to the top of the drawer front, to prevent binding when the drawer is closed. And a stretcher across the tops of the drawer sides, prevent the drawer tipping ... This aids in achieving near-full extension ... The end Regards from Perth Derek
  24. 4 points
    We started of today by cutting the legs and aprons to final length. First she trued up one end of all the legs using the cross cut sled. Set up a stop block to cut them to final length. Here she was learning how to check the setup of the stop block for correct length before cutting the long aprons to final size. And making the cuts. Next we did all the joinery for the legs and aprons. For this we used Dominos. I forgot to take pictures of this because I was enjoying watching how well she has adapted to using this machine in such a short period of time. If anyone is interested in how we decided to use dominos for this instead of a more traditional mortise and tenon joint for her first project, let me know and I will be happy to share it with you. This is the first dry fit of the project. This brought a real smile to my face to see her work on her first project come together this well. The table looks chunky right now but we still have to add some curves to the aprons and legs and a chamfer to the underside of the top among other things.
  25. 4 points
    She got a 2019 Impreza hatchback, with leather, and every option available, with 3900 miles. It was bought as the loaner car for the dealership. They order one with everything, in hopes that people using it will want to upgrade. With 2020 models available for 0%, and moving like hotcakes, they were motivated to sell this 2019 one for cash. She promised them not to tell what she got it for, but it was significantly less than a base model 2020 with nothing added. She wanted a white one, with leather, and this was the only one. She called me to ask about all the extra electronic stuff on it. I told her that we didn't want that, because it would just be trouble down the road. They threw in bumper to bumper warranty for 72 months, and roadside assistance, so she drove it home.
  26. 4 points
    This thread makes my day Chet, that’s one talented and smart girl right there, she’s fortunate to have such a great teacher, wouldn’t be surprised to see her being a woodworker her whole life thanks to you
  27. 4 points
    Just arrived. This is the brushless version of the 150/3 that I already own. I have some nerve damage in my arm so a lighter tool is always welcomed.
  28. 4 points
    Length of board is not limited by the length of the jointer bed. Longer bed just makes it easier.
  29. 4 points
    Good times Chet. My 15 YO grand daughter has always been interested in spending time in the shop, but the lately has really wanted to do more. Here parents hardly know which end of a hammer is which. We are doing some cabinet renos in our 5th wheel & she is involved in every bit of the job. Most times when I start to explain a process she interrupt to finish because she's always 1 step ahead. You can't put a price on time spent like this.
  30. 4 points
    For this one, my 70th, I went to get a load of wheat straw out of the field. This came from a family farm, not too far from us. As usual, the youngest drives the truck, and the others toss it on the trailer. I rode the trailer, and did the stacking. I was the only one on the trailer, and did this stacking of 145 bales. Fortunately, they had some nice shade trees to tie it down under. Not a whole days work, as it was loaded by 9:30 this morning. I had spread ten bales by hand, but will rent a blower for this.
  31. 4 points
    Clean them up, learn how to set them up, and put them to work. Like this.
  32. 4 points
    She is probably reading the chapter of Tom Sawyer where they are White Washing the fence.
  33. 3 points
    We go for walks every day when the weather is decent. Sometimes we see a rabbit in the neighborhood. Today there were two, and our little dog went ape! She wants to be friends, and doesn't understand why they run from her. Most of them outweigh her, and they're certainly faster than her even if she was off the leash. Here she is on her wedding day.... All 8 pounds of her.
  34. 3 points
    Just got this and used it for the first time. I don't have a lot of experience with hvlp systems, but here's my review. COMPONENTS All are very well made. I'm very impressed with the quality of the gun. All steel construction, except for the grip. POWER SOURCE It's a 3 stage (3 turbine) unit. Produces 5.5 CFM. It's about as loud as a medium sized shop vac. Two nice things here are the filters are very easy to access and clean, and there's a hook to dock the sprayer that slides out of the way when you don't need it. HOSE IVE never been this excited over a hose but this thing is really well made. It's 25' long and sturdy enough that you can stand on it (probably best not to though) but still very flexible for maneuvering. The quick release coupling for the gun is well designed and works flawlessly. GUN Very easy to operate and manipulate the spray pattern. The cap can be turned to the fan go vertical or horizontal. There are two knobs. One controls the size of the fan from a dot to a wide fan. The other controls the volume of material being put out. One other cool feature, and maybe this is standard in these style guns, is the straw that goes into the cup is bent. This means you can rotate it to hit the front on the cup if you're angling the gun down, or the back of the cup if you're angling the gun up. The gun is very easy to disassemble for cleaning. IN USE I put a final coat of poly on a bench and the results are very pleasing. Very even and professional looking -at least for me. Two things: I did experience some drops falling off the cup. I don't know if I didn't have it seated perfectly or what. But I did have to pull out a brush to deal with a few drops when spraying from above. The cup locks onto the gun with a cam assembly and this seems like it could be better, as there's a lever to activate the cam action and you can only move the lever about half way until it's locked. It seems like it should lock after moving the lever the entire range of it's path and not halfway through. I think this contributed to the drops I mentioned. Very pleased with this unit, albeit after only one use. There was no orange peel or spitting at all. YMMV.
  35. 3 points
    Me too, I see a great future for that little lady, she will put us all shame in a few years, I wonder if Chet has thought of his future bills for tools for her, at least she will be easy to buy Christmas gifts for
  36. 3 points
    Well, not exactly new, being a 2004 with 275,000 miles, but new for this use. Pam found a car she liked, and with this one not being worth much, we decided to make it a farm vehicle. It works good for this. The horses got out yesterday morning. Someone came through, and left a gate open. I drove this all down through the trails looking for them, but when I came back to the house, they were grazing in the yard. Hatchback AWD, and plenty of power, will work good.
  37. 3 points
    Finishes ... Somehow this area was forgotten, and of course it is important. All surfaces were hand planed, and then finished in de-waxed Ubeaut Hard Shellac. This concentrated and thinned with denatured alcohol/methylated spirits. This finish allows the figure to come through and, unlike an oil, does not darken the already dark Jarrah (which is what I wanted to avoid). The top was, in addition, sanded with a ROS to 400 grit. Jarrah is an open-grain timber and the sanded Shellac doubled as a grain-filler, leaving a smoothed surface. The next step was to rub in (and off) a water-based poly, from General Finishes, which does not darken or yellow with age. I rub thin coats on with microfibre cloths and then denib with 400 grit grey mesh ... The final step is to wax (the top) with Howards Wax-N-Feed, which is a mix of beeswax and carnauba wax. This produces a very soft, warm and natural finish. Regards from Perth Derek
  38. 3 points
    Robby, if you are like me, and maybe I’m more sentimental, but anything a family member (or anyone) gives me as a gift, I acknowledge the gift when I receive it and think of the person that gave it to me when I use it. Even if it is a gift card, I let them know what they gave me, always! Marking knives are cool and very useful.
  39. 3 points
    Anticipation! Ok, it’s been 23 hours and I don’t care what continent you’re in, that’s still almost a full day, and no update?
  40. 3 points
    I am really happy with them. It makes breaking down so much easier, you don't have to figure out how to position work so you have it hanging over the edge for a cut.
  41. 3 points
    I swear the rule of thumb I've read was the length of the beds plus a little bit. I can joint an 8 foot board on my PJ882 pretty easily which i believe is ~83", but a lot of that will come down to technique as well. My understanding is the bench top jointers are not recommended because of their lack of rigidity not their overall short bed length. In order to joint longer boards more weight is put on the beds causing them to deflect and the overall process is then inaccurate. I believe @wtnhighlander made good use of a bench top jointer on some long material utilizing the machine in a very inventive way.
  42. 3 points
    This piece was an interesting crotch piece but Ricky managed to have it mostly dry by the time I got my hands on it. It only had very minor checking that filled in with finish. Dont forget the root ball if you have to dig the stump up to clean up the area, the grain can get wild looking in it. This one was from a black walnut root. A pressure washer is your friend when dealing with a rootball, the embedded rocks can be pretty annoying.
  43. 3 points
    Hope it helps. Like many figured woods the look we love is often due to a variation in density and grain direction in the wood. There in lies the challenge. I enjoy getting a nice look from some of our coarser choices, shedua, peruvian walnut, lacewood, leopardwood, even the curly and birds-eye boards add a little work to get the surface we're after. Avoid a ROS or other sander that has a soft pad. Even my "hard" rated pad has to be used with care on things like tiger maple. They are fine for the first couple of grits but, you've got to be careful not to end up with a tiger maple washboard . I switch to a hard cork or rubber block once I get to 220 and use it through whatever grit I stop at. Sand a piece of leopardwood scrap to 600 or 1000 and buff it on a wheel with some compound. It will give you some interesting ideas for detail elements on future pieces; pulls, quirts, proud-plugs.
  44. 3 points
    Just wanted to say thank you for everyone's reply and inspiration. After spending about 16hrs on the metal body planes removing rust, flattening the soles, adjusting the frogs and honing irons along with their corresponding chip breakers I've found the Winchester and wards master #6 worthy of fine tuning. The other metal body planes I'll likely set up as scrub planes. I was surprised that all of them with even this small amount of tuning would produce consistent .002" shavings on southern yellow pine. The Wards and Winchester just seem to respond better to adjustments in depth of cut along with the way the frog beds in them. I've only played around with the wooden body planes for a short period of time. I do find I like the a lot. Even with my minimal amount of experience and not honing the iron at all I could get the larger plane to work on aromatic cedar. My optimism might be because I've only been using aromatic cedar and pine but I'll hesitate to pull out the rift and quartered white oak for a day I'm feeling especially cocky
  45. 3 points
    I first experienced hospice thru a long time friend’s short stay there. And then again with my mom. The folks there were angels sent from heaven.
  46. 3 points
    I remember 70. As I recall, I was hating not taking the day off. I could be wrong though, it was almost 8 years ago, And, I've noticed that without my driver license I'm not sure of who I might be.
  47. 3 points
    Today I went to the range and this extra target wandered through. Not a care in the world. We all stopped shooting of course.
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    I was the first of four boys and got the first of the baths with # 2 getting my left overs. #3 got the clean water and # 4 getting the left overs. Now I wonder if my first was really something that mom and dad had left over? Hell, who cares as I lived thru it!
  50. 3 points
    Funny, my Grandma was using solar power for things like drying clothes and heating bathwater before rural TN even had electricity. All it cost her was a rope and a washtub. You know you are a redneck if you've ever been third through the bath water. In all seriousness, it pays to consider that the greenest, most efficient way to reduce energy cost is to just not use so much.