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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/06/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    I return now to completing the base. As it stands the base still retains the “disappearing mortise ring” and this needs to be removed with final shaping of the lower third of the inside of the base. The whole base then needs more sanding to bring it to a P600 finish. So the first step is to mount the base onto the Longworth chuck then capture with the donut attachment. With the base secured the bulk of the material can be removed, then the donut removed and the final contour achieved. Then sanding of the entire piece to P600. The next stage is to remove the unwanted portions of the top ring and sculpt the pillars. I marked out the location and approximate form I expected the pillars to take as they rose up and curved inward. Then I drew some pencil lines giving the tape a wide margin to to show what I could safely waste. I planned to use the bandsaw to cut these lines, but it was difficult to be sure where the kerf would occur with the complex curve of this surface. So I hit upon this idea. Using a strong light with a single LED source and positioning the base carefully using wedges I was able to line up a very sharply defined shadow from the bandsaw blade showing me where the cut would occur. This was surprisingly effective, and I repeated the test for all three permutations of the cut. These circumstances are unusual, but keep this trick in your pocket should you ever be in a similar situation. However, after studying the bandsaw options and consulting all ten fingers I decided to use a hand saw and simply saw through one side of the ring at a time. Cutting two side of the ring at once just didn’t offer any real benefit. I then repositioned the masking tape to more carefully mark out the intended shape for the pillar, and here I ran into a small problem. When I had originally conceived the piece I had just planned to have the pillars taper more or less continuously from the wider lower segment up and around to the inside. However, I was not able to drawn this design in Fusion 360. I was only able to make a crude representation, which at the time looked crude, but I believed would look good when I could see it for real. It didn’t. It looked crude. In a butt ugly sort of way. So I began sketching out different ideas and must have gone through at least eight renditions. Unfortunately at this point I had already cut away the top ring on the assumption that the pillars would have a simple taper. Fortunately I had left that wiggle room. After several trials I settled on my design and cut this out of post-it note material, the kind with adhesive all over. Then I traced the design onto all of the pillars. It was very important to get the tips exactly centered. So I stretched a rubber band around the base getting this on the high point of the curvature of the pillar, then sighting down with both top and bottom of the rubber band aligned I was able to mark the centers for the tips. Cole jaws (with the lathe switched off) make for a poor man’s carving vice. I like to use a small sanding drum on the Dremel to shape the edges of the pillars. Eventually I’ll have a Foredom or Mastercarver, but in the meantime I have bought a flexible shaft attachment for the Dremel and this has been a big help. Diamond rifflers and triangle file are also part of my standard kit when a bit of sculpting is needed. These are followed with sandpaper, again to P600. The base is nearly completed. Notice that the side of the pillar is not simply a flat surface, but that this plane twists as it rises from the cusp of the V to the pillar’s inwardly bent tip. I feel this small detail adds quite a bit grace and curve to the pillar. The last detail before surface coating is the brand. Using the flat tool rest to reference the heated iron I put my mark on the bottom edge of the base, which by design is just big enough. Applying the surface coating is the last step, and more than the usual challenge. Neither the basin nor base really has a distinct and well defined top and bottom, hence there is no place to break off with the varnish application. So the entire piece has to be coated at once begging two questions, how do you hold it, and how do you put it down. I use Bartley Gel Varnish which is very viscous (more so than the General Finishes product). It applies easily and quickly with rags; wipe on, wipe off, and buff after which it has very low tack. So I applied the varnish with one hand while holding the piece in my other hand using a large rag. Then I used this large rag for a light two handed second buffing before putting the piece down to cure on a newly procured non stick baking sheet. The baking sheet worked great. And yes tested with a drop of finish and the cured finish does not stick. And that’s the end of this project. Finale pictures of the completed piece just need a little tweaking, but will be posted shortly.
  2. 8 points
    A couple of weeks ago I took advantage of a Black Friday sale and purchased a Nova Voyager drill press for a great discount. This replaced a Taiwanese model I had for 25 years. Yeah, I know this machine is OTT, but it is an amazing tool. For those who are not familiar with the Voyager, it is a computerised, variable speed drill press with a 2 hp direct drive motor (240v). I have already used it to determine the ideal speed for a selection of forstner bits, and then drill to a preset depth, and stop automatically at that depth. Putting it together was .. uh ... a little scary. The motor section is extremely heavy, and I was concerned that I would drop it in my usual clumsy fashion. Anyway, it was put together without mishap. A Nova fence was one of the freebees thrown in ... Nova recommend that one not use a mobile base, however I need to do so since my machines occupy one side of a double garage, and some machines need to be mobile. The drill press is one. The ideal mobile base is as low to the floor as possible. A low centre of gravity is more stable, but also you do not want to raise the drill press up too much as the controls and computer screen may be moved out of your comfort zone. Steel mobile base on lockable wheels ... This post is more about the table I built for the drill press. Some may be able to use the ideas here. Most of the ideas are old hat, but there are a couple of novel ideas. My old drill press used nothing more exciting than a piece of plywood over the cast iron table. Somehow it was sufficient, although the work holding sucked ... and this is what I wanted to address here. Plus, the sacrificial board became chewed up and useless very quickly, and I had an idea to improve on this. I was not crazy about the cast iron table as a work surface. For a top I found in my local salvage yard a 18" x 25" UHMW slab 30mm (1-1/4") thick. This is about as perfect a table top as one could get - it is very resistant to damage, and yet will not damage wood placed on it. It planes without any tearout The first task was to dado in aluminium tracks for the fence and hold downs, and then to create a circular mortice for a sacrificial section ... Using a power router to waste UHMW is an interesting experience - lots of plastic string everywhere, and dust control was not working well. The circular recess was time consuming and finicky. The template began as a 2" forstner cut hole. This was then progressively widened to 4" using a rebate and a flush cut bit in the router table. Finally, the template was used with a pattern cutter to create the circular recess, above. The circular sacrificial disks are 1/2" thick MDF. I found it quicker to saw them fractionally oversize on the bandsaw, and then turn them on the lathe ... Here now is the basic table ... There is a cut out at the rear for the winder ... Now why did I choose a circular sacrificial section? I have seen many drill press tables using square sections. I cannot recall seeing any with round disks (unless it was dedicated to a sander, but that is not the same thing). The drill bit is not centred on the square. Instead, it is moved to the rear of the square. That way one can rotate the disk four times after it becomes holed. My objection to this design was that one only obtained four points, and as soon as one section became holed, it could no longer back up the drill. Now a circular disk, on the other hand, has an infinite number of positions (infinite until the circle is completed). Just rotate as much as you need. More work to make, but better in the long run. Here is the finished table ... The Nova fence came with those twisty levers. They are useless ... difficult to achieve the ideal tautness and hard to get to behind the fence. I replaced them with the long knobs. These needed to be cut down by 3/4" to avoid fowling the downfeed handles. The tracks not only hold the fence, but also Incra hold downs ... ... and even the Micro Jig clamps for taller boards ... I hope there is something you can use. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. 8 points
    Here are some pictures of the final result. I call this piece "Offering".
  4. 7 points
    I copied this design offered many times on the web. I made this from left over materials. The sides and bottom are q sawn ply. Face is solid q oak. The cubbies on back left and right is cherry ply faced with solid cherry. And the top is the few sappy boards in a load of cherry I bought 2 years ago. The cherry had been well stored for a long time. Maybe 40 years. Part of an estate sale. In the rough there were twists, bows, and cupping. Normal rough distortions. I think the long term storage has made the boards more tame. I think the memory to revert is completely gone. Because the board I picked was loaded with sap and allowed just one face. So I could not reverse the rings in the glue up. But I felt it did not matter with this calm cherry. No wheels. I installed high density very slippery plastic on the bottom. I expect the need to move the cabinet if lowering the table was required will be rare. But if needed is should be easy to slide it on the plastic. This time the shoemakers children did not go barefoot! PS the drawer faces are 3/4 cherry ply.
  5. 6 points
    Still alive . Both knees replaced, bring on the pain and let the fun begin I have wood needing worked......coop I'm speaking about lumber.
  6. 6 points
    I took a couple hour break from the dining table Sunday to make a shelf unit to go next to my miter saw. I just had 2 shelves here before, they were small and tilting away from the wall so objects were likely to roll off. It was instigated by that and also i got sick of the plywood cutoffs from the bed platform project. After that I milled up 3 pieces of birch to make the stretcher. The stretcher is going to be 46" long with 2 4" long tenons so the legs will be spaced ~38" This will put the leg near the outside knee of someone sitting at the table. With the trestle design their knee shouldn't be close to the leg at all though. The through mortises were already cut before the trestle legs were glued up so after the beam glue was dry and 3 handles were turned on my lathe i cut the giant tenons. Only tricky part is getting them sized perfectly to the mortise but still slide on easily. My trick for this is simple. The only critical part that needs to be perfect to eliminate gaps is the portion of the tenon that is right at the face of the leg. I know the legs are 2.125" thick (yeah they are beefy), so i put a mark on the tenon at this point. Now i undersized the tenon everywhere except for 1/4" in either direction from my mark. It's sort of like back cutting a shoulder. These tenons are going to be wedged so glue surface isn't an issue at all which is why this trick is so nice. If you put a strait edge on the tenon each of the 4 surfaces will bulge out slightly 2" down the tenon. The above picture with zero gaps is quite nice. Next is to cut the shape on the stretcher and then create the mortises in the tenons for the wedges. After that I'll keep working on the benches. The remaining lumber i have for the top needs to dry some more. It's sitting around 11% but I'd like to see that at 10% before I start. This birch is a dream to work with.
  7. 5 points
    Thé partitions are alder and sapele, just jointed and glued Some 3/4” material together. Ran them through the “real” bandsaw to resaw a little thicker than the 1/4” final thickness, then ran it through the planer to the finished thickness of 1/4”. You can see the feet in the upper left corner of this picture. They’re color-coded, and will be mitered and splined for final assembly, which I’ll do when I’m closer to needing them. The planer took a chunk out of the end of one board. That’s by not paying attention to grain direction, which is more important on thin stuff than any other time.
  8. 5 points
    Finally got it with no scratch marks. Now I know how much anding is required. Used timbermate wood filler (veneer had holes too deep for pumice to fill) and then sanded up to 400 grit. Then french polish with 2# cut shellac. Took 4 sessions. 3 to build the finish and one for final polish. It looks better in person and feels great. Only the top got the french polish.
  9. 3 points
    I’m always trying to find new ways to do things wrong After doing things wrong often enough I eventually learn how not to do it wrong any more! Sometimes I even figure out how to do it better *shrug*
  10. 3 points
    B1rdhunter, I cut that special log today, I’m sure the Houston Boy don’t have any. Spalted Blackgum.......
  11. 3 points
    Okay, in a previous existence I was closely associated with a state taxing authority. Hopefully everyone doing this reads this. Despite some very misinformed opinions the states are getting massively better at detecting tax evasion. In a majority of states they are now using a very, very good software package called AllTax by Fast Enterprises. Old local built tax applications are ancient history, and with them their major inadequacies. In the 2000 we exchanged data with the IRS once a quarter, via magnetic tape. By 2008 the tape had morphed into a nightly file transfer. Depending on which options you chose with AllTax the data exchange is now instantaneous and constant. So the states see what the Feds see, and depending on state regulations it goes both ways. And the Feds have all the resources they want to go looking. States have entire teams of employees that spend all day looking for non-filers, including using Google to do it. I know they look for construction companies and compare their web statements with their annual returns. Same with home lodging like B&Bs, and I imagine now with AirB&B. When I left gov employment and went to furniture school I lived in a loft above the main residence. I booked it via the web. The owner told me a story of how the state showed up one day and asked him how the website showed No Vacancy, but his return showed no rental income. A settlement with penalties followed. I assume if a Deputy AG showed up at the door of AirB&B with a subpoena for transaction records your privacy would be the last thing AirB&B would be concerned with. I don't know for sure, but I think the principle probably applies to Paypal, et al. Low level stuff, especially cash, probably misses detection, for now. But if you are making a living at this, they will find you. Figure they routinely ask waiters why their tip income seems inconsistent with their hours and the restaurant's turnover. They do it all day, every day, and they work systematically at improving. And every year they all get together at a big conference and share what they're doing.
  12. 3 points
    I'm sure they would move to let you at the tree.
  13. 2 points
    I have a habit of layoing out my proejct pieces on paper on outlines of boards and then buying only what I absolutely need for the project. OK I am cheap. And I have gotten away with it up until now. I post this because I should have known better and maybe some one can learn from my mistake. I bought an 8 foot long piece of 8/4 walnut 5 1/2" wide for the 8 legs of my desk. Each leg needed to be 1 1/2" x 1/ 1/4" x 37" long final dimensions. The 8" was long enough for 2 rows of 4 legs each . The piece I bought was just wide enough to rip 4 legs out of the board. I planed the board to 1 1/2" and then proceeded to rip 1 1/4" wide pieces. They have to be very straight for the drawers to fit properly and there are no horizontal rails to hold (force) the legs into postion relative to each other. See my post about suggestions/ comments under General woodworking. About half of the board decided to relieve stress as I ripped and 3 of the legs have a good 1/16" to 1/8" bow. To mill out a 1/8" bow the thickness will be reduced by 1/4". Useless unless I change my design. That was an $80 board shot to hell. So the lesson is......don't try to be cheap. Buy the board wider and thickener than you need. MIll and rip to about 1/4" oversized, maybe let them sit a day or 2, and then mill and cut to final dimension and send me the $100 that you will save for a larger board. Address availlabe on request. OK, now you can all rub my nose in it.
  14. 2 points
    That's why I build stuff and give it away. Tax THAT, Mr. IRS!
  15. 2 points
    Here is a better shot.With the knobs. $1.08 ea. at Home depot. I like the idea of having floor space storage and not need any square feet to have it. Just re-using or sharing the same space with the drill press.
  16. 2 points
    I always make sure to wax all my jigs as well as my router base regularly. It makes a large difference and helps keep accuracy up.
  17. 2 points
    I bet consensus will say that we’ve all been there, it just took you longer than the rest of us. And now, if you’re like me, you’ll keep those mistakes in hope to use them someday.
  18. 2 points
    If I did this it would be a sure way to guarantee that I would end up dropping a chisel or other sharp, pointed object.
  19. 2 points
    I think B1rdhunter was talking about killing the two tree’s not the Houston Boy and whoever that guy is in the pic with the Houston Boy.
  20. 2 points
    That top will have to expand and contract. Why I didn't use solid wood on my bar. Used tile instead...
  21. 2 points
    Thank you everyone, I really appreciate your kind remarks. It's very encouraging. Thank you folks for following. I was worried this would be too long and too much detail. We had that in common. There were lots of "well now how in the heck am I going to get from here to there" momments. I usually sleep on a problem like that which might explain why this took so many months.
  22. 2 points
    So about 9 months after this post I bought a Laguna 14bx 2.5hp bandsaw. It's a fantastic saw - I'm still learning of course, but I'm loving the fact that it has substantial horsepower and a reasonable resaw capacity. I bought it from Amazon of all places. Laguna was selling all their saws at 10% off at pretty much all their dealers, and Amazon would deliver it to my house for free so it made the most sense for me to purchase it from them. When it was delivered, the weld that holds the main vertical body to the horizontal base was broken and as a result, the whole thing was wobbly. Fortunately Amazon was happy to ship a replacement and pick up the broken one quickly. The second saw arrived in perfect condition and I've been happily sawing away. Just figured I'd update this post with the outcome. Thanks again for everyone's help!
  23. 2 points
    Been working on this one slowly and steadily over the last couple weeks. I cut a bunch of material to rough length and width to make 3 ply parts for the trestles. I'm not measuring how much wood I'm using I'm just kinda guessing. The route that i'm planning on going will be a bit more wasteful but I think the result is going to look somewhat nicer. Got all of the parts matched and made sure the defects were towards the inside. Using 3 plys allows a lot of the bad material to be used for the center ply as long as you make sure to account for the fact that some cutting and shaping will be done. I put a lot of bad looking knots towards the middle which is nice. I used a good 75% of my clamps here. I utilized some of the offcuts from making the table trestle legs to glue up the legs for the benches. I figured I'd get 1.5" x 3" blanks to do some sore of MCM taper for the bench legs to make an attempt to match the style for the trestle. I have an idea but I don't have it on paper so you'll have to follow along to see the end of that one. I ganged all the legs together and glued them up in 1 batch. Made things nice. I brought this wood in my shop November 24th. Which happened to be the same day that I found the rotten wood on my shop window. The wood came in my shop 7 days ago at 20% MC according to my pinless meter. Today it measured 12-13%. EMC in my shop for this wood is 10-11% so it dropped the moisture fast which is surprising for air dried lumber. This air dried paper birch is a dream to work. With handtools it works similar to KD walnut except is nicer in some ways. I"m really enjoying this wood a lot. I"m glad i have another 200 BF in my shed . To make the trestle legs i figured it was easier to make 2 blocks and then glue them together up the center. This allows me to make a really easy but perfect through mortise for the stretcher. If you look close you can see the design drawn out to be cut on the band saw. After I cut the first side out I cleaned up all the sides with a combination of my #4, a spoke shave, a card scraper, and a wide chisel. The chisel allowed me to keep the hard inside corner instead of letting it get rounded. I then used the completed side to trace the outline on the other 3 parts. These are very thick so template routing would be tricky and I HATE template routing. Hand tools have MUCH less pucker factor. The top and bottom parts of the trestle were shapped the same way but took a lot less effort as the bends were a lot less harsh. Using strait square blocks allowed the joinery to take place on square faces. This way I didn't have to fuss with odd angles or what not. Where the joinery goes everything is strait and square. Easy peasy. Joinery is going to be floating mortise and tenon. I"m using 1.5" wide tenon stock with ~1" deep mortises. I will be double stacking these on each "leg" So there will be 8 tenons per side. I used my favorite mortise machine and plunged twice side by side to get a 1.75" wide mortise. I made it a bit over sized to make sure that i had some wiggle room while I'm gluing up. I could use the store purchased stock but i honestly don't think the glue bond is as good. I'm leery of all the stuff they stamp in the surface i honestly think that it reduces the effective glue area. Personal opinion backed up by zero evidence. Beings that the stock is scraps that was in the burn pile the floating tenon stock is free so that's probably where my bias comes in. Next up is the stretcher and see how the bench legs shape up.
  24. 1 point
    I wouldn't say doing it wrong. I routinely forget to wax my hand planes and then when i remember i fly across the room because it cuts that much easier.
  25. 1 point
    Not so. I know because you share your work here. I like your work. You don't want this work in your house. There is no finish other than the top and face. And it was quick. The drawers are not dialed in but work. Cherry ply face and no edge work. Also I got lucky on a good picture. This is built for shop life. I say it is a nice cabinet and drill press accessory. Not ready for prime time in the living room. A good tool that should last. My only purchase was $18 for the drawer slides and $3 and change on the pulls. Fringe benefit of being a woodworker.
  26. 1 point
    I’m still on a high from this! Put a Christmas bow on it and I’ll be able to sleep!
  27. 1 point
    Any time I have ever tried to save money building anything, it has always come back to bite me.
  28. 1 point
    Definitely been there. I find there are areas to be stingy and areas to spend a little more to assure success.
  29. 1 point
    B1rdhunter, do you have a young nurse helping you with the walking?
  30. 1 point
    Still laying in the hospital. My blood pressure drops whenever we try to walk and I get rather light headed. That's just funny.
  31. 1 point
    Looking darn good Chip, aside from that one little hickie!
  32. 1 point
    Started on the front feet as well. Decided to cut them out then plane them from 3/4” to 5/8” which worked out ok although I wasn’t sure it would. A 7/8” Forstner and my small Grizzly bandsaw (which is ok for this kind of work but is NOT a good bandsaw) cut them out. I’ll smooth the curves on my oscillator later on.
  33. 1 point
    Made a little progress today. For a box, this thing sure has a lot of pieces! i need a 3/16” router bit but don’t have one. Tomorrow I have to use a 1/8” and just make two passes. the jig worked perfectly ... after I waxed it, which I did t figure out till the last groove *shrug*
  34. 1 point
    This sounds like it would take a lot of your time or money in equipment. To me it is pretty simple 1) If you provided a sample, and/or very detailed explanation of what you wanted it to look like, and they didn't follow make them redo at their cost, if they won't don't pay them or find a new supplier. 2) if you didn't provide a sample or weren't specific, then pay them to do. You may need to redo the deal for future orders.
  35. 1 point
    Thank you. The finishing class gave me some information. But the class covered so many materials and methods that it did not delvee deep enough into any of them. Since the class I have been researching, practicing and actually took one local shellac class. I think that I have a pretty good handle on the process now. The only part of french polishing that I have not done is the first step using pumice to fill in the grain. Does not work well with the burl veneer. Have fun playing with the veneer.
  36. 1 point
    I had some low pile carpet in my previous shop as well and it's not bad at all. I could sweep it and hitting it with a shop vac made it look nice. The stick down tile stuff would be nice for spills ect. Though rubber flooring is probably the way to go.
  37. 1 point
    That is a beauty. Don't think I could kill either one of those just to get the lumber. But I can walk down the hill and sit under it.
  38. 1 point
    This white oak might be big enough. Coop and Spanky.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    This is one of the best things I have added to my shop and it provides great support to the body even with long days in the shop. I live close to you in San Jose and I have walked out onto this with just my socks when the shop is a little cold and you don't feel the cold in the bottom of your feet. It sweeps up pretty well especially after you have had it down for a while and it vacuums real well. https://www.rubberflooringinc.com/interlocking-tile/8mm-strong-rubber-tile.html I think carpet would be a head ache and it certainly would be a chore to keep clean. I don't think it would provide support under your feet during long sessions in the shop. If you want to stop by and see it sometime just drop me a PM.
  41. 1 point
    Coop, You ain't the only one AND I Ain't kidding Is it possible your wives are overestimating how much game you guys have? I kid! I kid!
  42. 1 point
    I have the Cutech 8" jointer with the teflon bed and the helical cutter head with high speed steel blades. I bought it in a combo pack with the 12.5" planer with helical cutter head and high speed steel blades. I love the jointer, the planer is just OK. I only got into woodworking last year so I've never operated a full size floor standing jointer or planer - so my opinion only has so much value. The jointer has extensions that are surprisingly stable. The fence is extruded aluminum, and it's a little bit of a pain to calibrate, but it holds true once it's set up. The cutterheads do a nice job, the motor seems powerful enough. I have a pretty small basement shop, so I'm not sure I'll ever have room for a full size floor standing jointer - so this one does a nice enough job and the price is right. The planer is so-so. It bogs out pretty easily and I can't seem to get the snipe out, so I've given up on that. Both tools are available from other manufacturers. Cutech (now Wahuda I guess) had the best features (the helical cutterheads, teflon coated bed, few other things) and the best price. I'd buy the DW735 if I was buying a planer again, but for the jointer - I'm not aware of other better benchtop options.
  43. 1 point
    I'd only use ipe with carbide tools. I went through a ton of HSS drill bits just drilling the screw holes on my decking.
  44. 1 point
    That's exactly how I do it. A shallow circumferential cut then bend the cable. If the remainder of the sheath doesn't part on its own, then careful cuts with a box cutter will finish the job without the blade ever touching the wire insulation.
  45. 1 point
    I'm gonna stick to furniture.....
  46. 1 point
    Nice to finally deliver. And several wows were offered. We work for money, but the thanks and comments of appreciation along with the wows are a meaningful part of the pay. Dealing with nice people adds to the pleasure of the work. I had to bring the drawers back to the shop. I did not calculate the plastic that fits on top of the drawer sides to accommodate the hanging folders. It was 40 minutes round trip travel and 20 minutes to cut the sides a half inch. All is well!
  47. 1 point
    Sorry for the delay. Been one of those days... Here's the link to the video I shot this morning about adjusting the Boggs spokeshave.
  48. 1 point
    Hello guys, I wanted to show you my last job. I built a mini carpenter workbench. maybe for many it is nothing special but for me that I work in the garage and I have little space it allows me to do carpentry work with more precision but important to be able to use the plane. You can rest it on the bench and fix it with bench vises I hope you like it for the moment I'm satisfied. This the video walktrought https://youtu.be/6Fodk-yAW7M
  49. 1 point
    This is a better picture taken by the clients new iPhone . The camera is much improved. Here are the pulls provided by the client. I will try to get some pics when delivered and in place. In my eye, the stain makes it look like a non stained piece 20 years old. But my guess is the 20year non stained piece will look better. The continuing grain on the drawer faces is almost a non event due to staining. The keys are the same for each drawer.
  50. 1 point
    Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece: