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  1. 29 points
    Some of you know, and some don't. My wife was diagnosed with cancer in 2015. She went through all the necessary treatments, radiation, chemotherapy and everything they had to stop the cancer. It worked, all that was left after 2 1/2 years of treatments was scar tissue. Hooray we thought, but hold on a minute. Why wasn't she recovering? She was weak, hardly able to walk, to eat, to have a good life again. It seems that the chemicals that are used to kill off the cancer cells, also do damage to other parts of the body. Those chemicals that saved my wife's life from cancer, destroyed her stem cells. Those are the cells in the bone marrow that produce red blood, white blood cells and the platelets that people need to live, you've got'em and be damned glad you do. Her immune system was gone, totally destroyed, any damn wandering germ could kill her, so we went full, hospital gowns, latex gloves, and masks for everyone, she was on oxygen 24/7. I had to take her to the ER more times than you cross cut wood in a week. But she was tough, she never gave up, Ask Coop, that bum talked to her every week, sometimes more. 3 1/2 months ago, after 6 blood transfusions, we were told she had maybe 6 months to live. She made it to 3 months. I was with her in her hospital room when she died. It ripped my heart out. When we were told that 6 months was a possibility, I began construction on a project, I'd never dreamed I'd do. A friend, a sawyer you all know as Spanky, donated the wood. Along time close friend, an ex scooter tramp helped me make and install the hearts and hand rail, and a damned good friend flew in from Texas to do an inlay of a cross that my wife had and wanted on her casket. Never in my life did I know such good friends. The casket was built from Sassafras, so she would have that wonderful fragrance all the way to heaven. The top was curly Cherry. I did a crude carving of two hearts on one part, and my good friend [A bum} did the inlay. She died on the 19th of this month, and I buried the love of my life on Friday the 26th . Just a few days ago, and it's not real even now. These are the pictures of those friends and the casket they helped to build for a very special human. You'll be able to tell who's who. The bearded bum is my scooter tramp friend, we go back to years that should be left unmentioned. The bum in the red shirt is Ken Cooper. Probably the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I couldn't find the pic of Spanky, but if you can buy wood from this guy, he won't screw you. The rest is the short version of the build. I never wanted it to be used in my lifetime.Inside around where her hips and legs were going I saved most of the Sassafras and Cherry that I had to plane to make fit I scattered those shavings to give her that fragrance. Ken flew in for the burial, and some friends drove in from cajun country to see her off and sing her favorite song " Go rest high on that mountain". And that's where she is now, on top of a mountain called Monteagle, in Tennessee in the cemetery named for her maiden name O'Dear. and she's lying on the right hand of a man she loved......Her Father, George O'Dear. I hope I did her justice. ...........Rick
  2. 21 points
    I made a couple of jewelry boxes out of sepele for my daughters for Christmas. I haven't made any thing for them since they were kids here at home so I figured it was time. They are simple in design, neither one of our daughters is into fancy or real ornate stuff. I used Brusso stop hinges and they are finished with satin Arm-R-Seal. This is the first project using sepele and I really enjoyed working with it. I have another project after the first of the year and I now think I will be using sepele for that one also. The chatoyance is really something with sepele as you change the angle at which you view it from.
  3. 19 points
    This project was for me. It's a tall desk with a partially sloped top and shelf for computer monitors. Been working on this since before Christmas. I used a story stick for the legs - worked great.
  4. 19 points
    I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  5. 18 points
    This was a fun build, and it really shows off Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple. I was inspired to do this piece after seeing some nice buffet designs and builds on this site. Why would a buffet design inspire this piece, well this piece will match my future buffet table/cabinet! I also plan to build a matching liquor cabinet to match this piece. That liquor cabinet is just getting started and if I can get my act together I wanted to post a journal with that. Now for those that have seen some of my work, you know I lean more toward a Maloof/sculptured design. I had to incorporate some flowing lines in this piece but it's a lot more traditional than Maloof stuff. I still find this look appealing. Spanky's curly ambrosia really looks great with the walnut, and my liquor cabinet will incorporate these two woods also. Fully stocked in this photo; Drawer dovetail were handcut and run on a center guide. Really like the way these woods work together; From the side view you can really appreciate the curves in this piece; Thanks for looking.
  6. 18 points
    This is the last post for me in this thread. The reason is that there is this one thing to add to it, to complete it. A few weeks ago, the funeral home called me and told me that the marker I ordered had come in. They wanted to know if they were going to drive the 50 miles to do the install. I told them no, and I'll be up in a few minutes to pick it up. It's been riding around in my car for 15 or 20 days, and today I took it to the grave of my wife. I waited til today for this reason. Today would be our 21st anniversary. And I wanted to share that date with the Lady I love. Ya see, my wife is buried next to her Father in a graveyard named after her Maiden name. The O'Dear Cemetery. Linda's Maiden name was Linda Kay O'Dear. I arrived there about 9:20 this morning and took a couple of general pics before I started prepping the ground for her Marker. It wasn't all that difficult, the ground was soft, since It doesn't seem to stop raining here this year. After a few shovels full, the ground was ready for the Marker. It's granite and 25" long by 14" tall, and about 6" thick. I can assure you that it wasn't light. It weighed a little over 110 pounds, but I got it out of the car and walked the 20 feet and put it in it's final place. I guess I should mention that I turned 76 today as well, and an old fart like me, shouldn't try picking up that much, much less walk it 20 feet, and gently lay it in place. But it was for my wife, and I'll do anything for her, even now. I filled in around it, and brought out a camp chair and I sat down to recover and to start a conversation with the love of my life. I sat there for close to 2 hours talking to her, all the while tears were pouring down my face. It's the very first conversation I've ever had with her where she didn't interrupt me. That to was unnerving. I don't know what the end result of today is going to be, some say closure, I say confusion. I've done all I can for her now, except try and live my life the way she would approve. And I'll give that a try. Thank every one of you who participated in this thread, every one of you have made this trial just a little easier. Here's the final pics of this final post. Again, I thank every one of you. ..............Rick She now rest's High on that Mountain.
  7. 17 points
    My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  8. 17 points
    Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  9. 17 points
    It has been one year to the day since I last was on this forum. I am sure there have been a lot of new members and things happen since then. I just thought I would put up a post to let everyone know where I've been and why I was absent for so long. Hopefully all the members I have known in the past are still here! One year ago today, I had an injury in the shop. I will spare you the details for now, but it ended up with me in the emergency room. I cut open my left thumb on the table saw, and required 12 stitches (6 inside and 6 outside). It scared the living hell out of me. The cut was in the pad of my left thumb, and did not severe any tendons, ligaments, or hit the bone. No surgery was required. I am a VERY safety conscious person, and doubly so in my shop. I have worked wood for 15 years without injury or incident, until this occurrence. It was, quite literally, 1 second of inattention and my thumb was cut open. I was out of the shop for 12 weeks as the thumb healed. My thumb has recovered, but I do have some nerve damage that affects the feeling along the scar line. The mental healing took much longer, and I feel now that I am ready to share my experience with you. After the incident, my wife was concerned about me and how this was affecting my outlook on my beloved craft. In the end, she bought me a Sawstop to help get me out of my funk and back to my passion. It's now in my shop, and I have been using it for 6 months. It's the 3 HP cabinet saw model, and its incredible. I'll post a review at a later date when I get back in the groove of posting again. In no way to I blame the table saw for my injury - it was 100% my own fault. Ironically, about 6 weeks after my injury I was contacted by a Woodworking magazine regarding a 2 page article I had written for them. I ended up getting my article published int the magazine (print), and have since written 4 more which will be published in 2019. The magazine is called "Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement". It was a very proud moment for me, but was a little tarnished by the injury I had suffered. Regardless, it is nice to be back in "full swing" again. I'll be back to regular posting now, so catch me up on what you fellas have been up to! -pug
  10. 17 points
    Finish the 2x4's on all sides then assemble with construction adhesive and brads from the bottom face. Screw the hairpin legs on and your done. Take no pictures, apply no signature, deny you ever built such a thing !
  11. 16 points
    A fun project for my Grandson.
  12. 16 points
    This month I was one of the turners featured in the Members Gallery of American Woodturner magazine. I know it's not the "Nobel Prize for Woodworking", but still pretty cool to me.
  13. 16 points
    I made a pair of sideboards based on a piece in Good, Better, Best , Masterpiece by Albert Sacks. They are mahogany, with holly, ebony, lacewood and poplar. The finish is about 15 coats of super blonde shellac, which were rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone, and then obviously waxed. I am sorry to have to watermark the pictures, but photos of mine that have been on this forum have been used by someone who claimed my work as his own. Pictures when I am in the shots have no watermark, and I hope that the other pictures are not obstructing the view of the work. The hardbound book that I made of the project has 104 pages showing all the aspects of construction. I choose more pages to show then may be appropriate for this forum. If this is too much for the site I hope the webmaster would politely ask me to remove whatever needs to be trimmed off the post. I hope there is a way for anyone of you folks to feel that the information will assist you in your work. Any questions will be responded too, and if pictures make the explanation easier, I will post those upon request.
  14. 16 points
    Signed, sealed and ready for delivery.
  15. 16 points
    Done just in time for Christmas is this walnut and bubinga buffet. I used mostly hardwood for the project (walnut, bubinga, and maple for the drawers) as well as walnut plywood for the side and back panels. Joinery is primarily mortise and tenon, with some rabbet joints for the shelves, and a few pocket holes for the interior vertical panel (the pocket holes will be well hidden). For finish, I used a home-mixed shellac for interior components, and an oil based poly for the exterior. I normally try to avoid stain, but I did apply a mild stain on the walnut to match the chairs in the room. The legs have a pretty significant curve inward, and the lower rails on all sides include a craftsman-style curve. I borrowed these design elements from the dining table legs that I built last year (shown below). The top was made from three solid pieces of walnut, with knot holes included. I filled he knots with tinted epoxy, and sanded them smooth. Below you can see the curved stretcher on the table, which influenced the curves at the bottom of the buffet. I was not please with the plywood I used on this project. Even with only light 320 sanding, it showed witness marks from the glue used in the plywood. I tried sanding through the marks on a piece of scrap, but ended up burning through the veneer. If I were to do this scale of project again, I would either use shop made veneer, or I would buy thick veneer to use. The bubinga panels are continuous from right to left, and ar bookmatched from a single board. As with the drawers, I chose the darker material for the center of the case, with lighter material above and below that. The doors are simple frame and panel doors assembled using mortise and tenon joints and a groove for the panels. I was very please (and a little surprised) by the consistency of the gaps between these drawers. I used playing cards to get the spacing right, and attached them with screws to the drawer boxes. I chose a step-down aproach for the piece. The front of the top, legs, frmae and drawers are all inset from one another. This was to give thepiece some visual interest, but was borne from a mostly practical concern. I was worried about my ability to make my drawers perfectly square and coplaner to the front of the piece by insetting them 1/4" from the frame, i was able to hid very minor imperfections in thedrawers. This will mean that there is some exposed walnut that the rails will ride against when opening the drawers, but only time will tell how much wear damage this will do to the finish. I used Brusso hinges for the doors, and champagne-colored hardware for all of the pulls. I experimented with my version of "speed dovetailing", which means spending about 1 to 1.5 hours per drawer. That left some gaps, but I was overall pleased with my pace and the results. I elected to leave any gaps that remained. I cut all dovetails by hand, but used the Katz Moses jig for them all. I gang cut the tails. I then clamped the heck out of them to try to force them into square (they ended up being very close). This was my first time rubbing out shellac with steel wool and wax, and I was amazed at how smooth everything ended up. Here's the webframe construction I used. I mortised the hinges into the front of the case, and rested them on cleats glued to the back of the case. After building drawer boxes, I then installed the right-hand drawer guides, using playing carts to shim them out to ensure the drawer fronts were flush with the front of the case. Once they were dried, I put the boxes into the opening, and installed the left-and drawer guides. This helped to take the boxes (which weren't perfectly square), and still make them run well. I mirrored my liquor cabinet (below) with a 3" bevel on the underside of the top. This ties the two pieces together really well. I "cut" the bevel away with a #4 plane. I included an adjustable shelf to increase storage flexibility. It was made from 1/2" walnut plywood with a 3/4" solid wood front edge. I found that it sagged too much, so I then glued a 3/4" x 2" strip under the shelf for its entire length. This helped out quite a bit. One of my favorite features is the integrated wine shelf, which can hold 21 bottles. I started with a sheet of plywood for the shelf, which I ran across the saw to create a series of parallel grooves. I then milled and cut small ribs to for the grooves. I tapered each rib, rounded it over, and sanded until they were pillowed. I then rabbeted the solid wood on the front to accept the plywood panel, and assembled. Here's the case early in the construction process. You can see theuse of pocket holes on the vertical divider here. Some of the raw material. Here she is in her final home in the corner of the dining room. Dining room is complete. I made the buffet, table, and liquor cabinet. I outsourced the chairs, but you never know; I may tackle those myself at some point in the future.
  16. 16 points
    The immediate challenge is to create the curved ends. The plan is to make dovetailed corners, round them on the outside and add a filler/filet to the inside corner, which will be hollowed to compliment the outer radius. Complicating this is the need to mitre the insides of the dovetailed ends, since this will permit the shape to flow better than butt ends. Interesting ... as I have never made mitred dovetails to date. This is going to be a steep but quick learning curve! I spent some time researching mitred dovetails. There is not much around. The only book I could find with directions was Ian Kirby's "The Complete Dovetail". I like Ian's work, but the writing here were not his best. There is a short video by Chris Schwarz (Google for it), which was helpful. There was also an article on the UKWorkshop forum (by Custard), which is a Pins-first method (I tend to saw Tails-first). There were one or two other articles to be found, of less assistance to someone like yours truly, who becomes easily spatially challenged. In the end I worked it out but, reflecting on the method that evolved, it does not look like those who came before. Perhaps it is a different way of doing it? I really do not know. Let me have your thoughts here. Anyway, I plan to show it for the education of those who want to learn a method. Beginning with a tail board that has been marked and sawn (to speed up the description). Note that there is no shoulder here (which is common on butt ended dovetails). The wood is Merbau, which is hard, hard, hard. 20mm thick, as per the panels on the table ... The aim is to saw all the tails. Forget about the mitre for now (... this is a departure from the methods I observed). To make the removal of waste easiest, undercut the baselines (shallow cuts to avoid losing vertical) ... Now fretsaw away the waste. Get as close to the baseline as you dare! My cuts are about 1mm ... This enables the minimum of waste removal. You can place the chisel immediately against the chisel wall and pare/chop down halfway ... With the waste removed, mark the mitre cuts at the sides - but do not cut them yet (this is another departure) ... Time now to transfer the marks to the pin board. First, here is an alternative to the "#140 trick" (the #140 trick involves creating a shallow rebate to securely connect the tail board to the pin board when transferring marks. This was popularised by Rob Cosman and Chris Schwarz, amongst others). My alternative is three layers of blue tape, which is peeled away afterwards. Lay three layers of blue tape over the baseline. No need to be careful ... Now use the cutting gauge (which marked the tails) to slice away the tape, leaving an edge butting against the baseline ... This is the fence. Here it is seen with the pin board, which has a layer of blue tape on the end ... The "fence" makes it easy to align the boards, while the blue tape on the pin board also acts as a non-slip .. When you trace the sockets (with a knife), the outlines look like this (great for old eyes!) ... Drop all the vertical lines, with the exception of the line on the outside at each side ... Remove the waste in the same way as done on the tail board (undercut the baseline, fretsaw and chisel) ... Mark out the mitre lines ... ... and drop the verticals on the reverse side... Now saw the mitre cuts and remove the waste ... Do this on the tail board as well - the reason it was left until now was that it would be difficult to transfer the outside tail if the mitre was sawn. Stay about 1mm from the mitre line. Do not saw to the line. This will be more accurately shaped with a chisel. For chiseling, use a mitre guide. This is just a 45 degree saw cut. I made a double-ended guide - to use on opposing sides .. Take it slowly, a smidgeon at a time. Finally ... the moment of truth arrives ... will she .. won't she ?? Looking promising as the top is pressed together with finger pressure. Then I wack it - the wood is uncompromising. The clamp is to prevent any cracking in such circumstances. Not too shabby. Mitres are tight ... Now about the rounded edge ... here is the secret weapon: After marking out, the waste is removed with a block plane, and then sanded smooth. Just lacking the inner filet ... Enough practice. Now for the real thing. A bit more of a challenge as the panels are 500mm wide. Regards from Perth Derek
  17. 16 points
    copied without permission because it's true:
  18. 15 points
    A number of years ago, I built my wife a computer desk of white oak with some storage. But it took up and enormous amount of room. Since she's not around to use it any more, I figured I could simplify the space and still have access to the computer. I use her computer for background music when I doing house things. You know, dishes, vacuum, read and sketch stuff. So I built this little table , that might be called an entry table or sofa table. It's made from "very" soft Maple. It's so soft, it made me think that Pine was a hardwood. This Maple is curly, and has a bunch of Sp[alting and around this part of the country it's also called "wormy" Maple. Which is Ambrosia Maple to woodworkers. I bought this wood air dried from @Spanky more than a year ago, and it was 7' long 4/4 thick and 15" wide. It sat stickered in my shop for about a year. So it was dry an d ready to work. If nothing else, it's an eyecatcher. There's a small strip of Cherry along the bottom of the aprons, that I like.
  19. 15 points
    I have had this drawer cabinet under my saw for three years and over time have decided that I wasn't totally happy with how it was working out and it also created a bit of a knuckle scrapper when using the hand wheel to adjust the blade tilt on the saw. So after seeing a blade storage idea that I really liked on another forum I decided it was time to start fresh and replace the old one. The old one had three drawers with ridge foam insulation that had been routed out to hold blades and other fixtures and tools. The new one also has three drawers, with one drawer at this time, with nothing in it so thats a plus. Its also five inches narrower so the knuckles are safe. I still have to get one more knob for the little drawer at the top but I stuck on a scrap of sapele for now so I can get in to it. A peek of the old one in the bottom of the picture. And the NEW - Plenty of room to turn now.
  20. 15 points
    Finally home from a long work road trip! Had some catching up to do! A few projects to get done that have been piling up! Only the bathroom vanity was done for YouTube.. 1. Table Lazy Susan and a cutting board for 2 different clients.. 2. A thread storage cabinet for my wife's quilting room 3. Bathroom Vanity for a client. 4. And, a floating picture frame for a family member..
  21. 15 points
    I liked Marc's breadbox build very much. Alison liked most of it. We compromised and below is the result. Air-dried walnut with ambrosia maple door and drawer, with ebony pulls.
  22. 15 points
    Most all of you saw the Final Gift for my Wife when she passed. She and I agreed that I would build her final resting place. It was a painful and joyous experience. Since then I pondered what was next for me, being alone and old with only a house mouse to share my days. After 4 or 5 months of mourning and praying, and crying, I thought I could help other people with the expense of buying a casket. On average, caskets run about $2500.00 and the sky's the limit from there. We have a local sales site, somewhat like Craigslist, but it's just for Middle Tennessee. You can find anything you want on that site, and it's mostly nice local country folk, for the most part. So, I put an ad with a couple of pictures of the casket I built for my wife. It got a ton of hits, but it took a few months before anyone called. We talked, and he drove 30 miles to come talk with me and tell me what he wanted done. His idea was he wanted just a plain Pine box, with the exception that he wanted it made out of Cedar. The reason was he had a source for inexpensive Cedar and a source for drying that Cedar. It was coming from his property, which made it personal. What he wanted from me was the labor to construct it. We talked about my hourly rate, and settled on what amount of time I would have in it and we agreed on a price. He then told me, that he really wanted two done. One each for him and his wife. They're just simple nice church going folks and felt that the trees were his and he didn't want anything fancy. I can do "not" fancy. So he went about getting the trees cut, milled and dried, I took some time, and life has a way of interrupting the flow of things. I had a horrible back surgery, and when I was just about ready to start, he broke some bones in his foot. After we were both healed for the most part, he brought the wood. Nice tight Cedar, 1" thick 6" wide and more or less 8' long. The frustration for me is that there was an enormous amount of sap wood, and I wanted to try and use as little of that as possible. With Cedar, your gonna get sapwood no matter what you try to do. In the process of constructing these I was very choosy with the boards, and as I was putting things together, I invited him down several times to get a feel for the process. Each time he dropped by, he wanted to make a change about design. Since the changes he wanted were in front of what I was already doing, it wasn't a major problem. But I told him finally, "every time you come here you add more time in the construct and your cost is going up each time". He said okay, just add it to my tab. The final construct is large box joints at all four corners, with all the joints pinned with contrasting dowels, a small piece of trim on the side that can hardly be seen. Hand rails that I had to make extra, because in the start of this build I had told him I had some Poplar just the perfect size for the rails. He wanted Cedar. So Cedar he got The insides are finished with one coat of satin poly, the exterior has a base coat of satin poly and two coats of gloss poly. And they are for the most part, plain caskets They are dried and cured and he's coming this week, to pick them up one at a time. He's going to store them in a room in his house that is climate controlled, then he has a friend in the cardboard business that is going to double wrap them and seal them close til they are needed. All this because Cedar "sucks", to work with, sucks moisture and twists and warps like a pole dancer. But here they are. Comments are welcome. Oh, and since he and his wife have been married more than 50 years, I figured they kinda like each other, so I added one single adornment on the lid of each one at no charge.
  23. 15 points
    I started this a good while back but chose not to do a build on it as I figured it might go into the fire pit at anytime during the build and it came close several times. My daughter asked for a chair for her desk and I have always wanted to try it so I gave it a go. Initially it was going to be built from some walnut I cut and dried and I figured I would do a prototype from some cherry. After several months of wrestling with it, I don’t foresee a walnut chair in the future. Plans were ordered from Charles Brock and I picked up several pointers from Marc’s rocking chair build. Three coats of ARS glossy and three coats of GF top coat. The only places I’m not real pleased with are the arm to leg joints.
  24. 15 points
    Loving the fact that Coop just posted a great Maloof Low Back Chair. Always happy to see other sculptured pieces on here. Just finished this Walnut Maloof Rocker, as I've stated before, my hands down favorite all time woodworking project. This is my third rocker and my first in walnut. I started this rocker the last week in April, and it was a double build, meaning I am building 2 at the same time. The other rocker is cherry and it's still in the shop waiting for final assembly and final sanding. For those that have done these, you know that final sanding is no small or simple step. My sanding goes to 400 grit before applying finish and I use 0000 steel wool to apply a few coats of the finish. My finish of preference is 3 coats oil/poly mix followed by 2 coats oil/wax mix. Didn't use Osmo for this rocker, but I will likely try that on a rocker in the future. This build went very smoothly, minimal issues. I've have some small details I'm learning to refine with this build, I'll try to point out those small details, but for the most part it looks like most other Maloof rockers. Countless times I've looked up this rocker online and through other venues, and it's easy to make this piece look clunky. I've seen it done with flawless woodworking technique, but it didn't look organic, flowing, or inviting. Hopefully you don't think that when you look at this piece. A perfect pose, the rocker next to a Maloof style table with a Maloof book to inspire you. A few details I like in these rockers. First, I really like the horns, these are time consuming to develop, but worth it in my opinion. Die grinder does a lot of the work, then a lot of scraping and sanding; The crest of the head rest needs to flow into the front of the horn, you can see the line from the front edge of the horn detail blend into the top edge of the head rest. Head rest and horn from the front, again a line that needs to flow; The underside of the headrest to back leg is also an area that takes a lot of work to blend. A rasp and a lot of hand sanding is the only way to get this done. I like the middle of the headrest to project down, I like this look much better than the continuous sweep you see in a lot of the rockers; This side view of the head rest shows the sweep and contours; The arm to back leg joint is pretty straight forward and easy to shape. Key is to make it look fluid and continuous. The interesting part of this joint is on the inside. This is a common feature seen in the original chair that is often duplicated. This gives the look as if the arm was carved from the back leg. The arm to front leg joint takes a lot of work, as you have end grain and long grain you are blending together. I don't like the big paddle shaped arms you often see on most of these rockers. I like a more narrow arm and with it converging more as it approaches the back leg. The shaping of the arm is a lot of work also, but Marc does a great job in his build guiding one through the process. So much is made of the leg to seat joint in this piece. I find that to be pretty straight forward when you use the paired router bits. Shaping these joints are harder than doing the joint. And this by far is the toughest area to shape. Finally, the leg to rocker joints. The joints that give me the biggest pucker factor. Drilling thru the rocker into the back leg, after you have spent weeks on the chair is the absolute most tense moment of this build. The good thing is after you have shaped the whole chair, shaping the legs to the rocker is one of the easiest areas to shape. The detail I add in the front is from Marc's build and I like it, you leave a little extra in front of the leg to converge that excess into a point, sweeping up from the underside and in from the sides. Thanks for looking.
  25. 15 points
    This is a bowl that my wife, Marcia, made. It's made form two pieces of Khaya (African mahogany) sandwiching a thin piece of zebra wood. The rim and stem are accented with Inca Gold Gilder's Paste. The design and work are her own. I consulted on the project, but surprisingly little. Don't know about you all, but I was impressed.
  26. 15 points
    I did not fully document this build but wnated to share a few pics. All solid cherry except for the back which is cherry veneer on plywood and the center the crown which is wanut veneer on plywood. New techniques and methods for this project are the crown and the base. My goal was to have the clock face appear to be floating in mid air. s0, for those of you familiar with clock mechanisms, this is a front mounted mechanism but it is mounted to a frame that is mounted to the rear of the case. Working on the crown... Case....The case is dovetailed but they are all hidden in the completed piece. oh well, it was good practice. Door Box that suports the mechanism mechanism is removable from the front (lift and pull) Pics of completed clock.......all that's left is to adjust the timing over the next few days.
  27. 15 points
    Nothing you write home about here, but if you make something and dont post pictures, did it really happen? The American flag was for my father, who is a Vietnam veteran. I bought the union, I wanted the perfection of the CNC. I was going to do the typical burned/stained home center pine, but realized I have piles of cherry and curly maple that bumped it up a notch. I didn't use my best maple, but there's still some curl in there. A very quick, easy project. The Ulu knife sets go to my in-laws. Nothing extraordinary here either, except since I have no lathe, I cut the bowls with a router in a jig. Messy, but it went pretty well. I'll attach photos of the jig when I switch to a computer.
  28. 14 points
    I thought that the build might begin with preparing the panels, since there has been some interest in the past shown in the shorter Hammer K3 sliders. Mine has a 49" long slider and a 31" wide table for the rip fence. The build is an entry hall table for a wedding present for a niece. Her choice was this mid century modern piece, which will be the basis for the build. My job is to re-invent it somewhat. She wants Jarrah, and I have managed to find something spectacular ... a subtle fiddleback (curly) set of boards that will make a book match (as they are only about 9" wide each). Most imagine that the value of a slider lies with cross-cutting. It certainly is so. However it is the rip using the slider - rather than the rip fence - which is so amazing. One side of each board was to be ripped on the slider, before being jointed and resawn. Ripping on the slider is such an advantage with life edges. No jigs required. No rip fence to slide against. Just clamp the board on the slider, and run it past the saw blade. The long sliders can complete the rip in one quick pass. It occurred to me that I should take a few photos of ripping to width since the boards are longer than the slider. Here you can see that it comes up short ... In actuality, with the blade raised fully, there is a cut of nearly 54" ... The solution is to use a combination square to register the position of the side of the board at the front, and then slide the board forward and reposition it ... ... and repeat at the rear ... The result is a pretty good edge, one that is cleaned up on the jointer in 1 or 2 passes, and then ready for resawing ... This is the glued panel. It is long enough to make a waterfall two sides and top section (still oversize) ... The following photo shows the lower section at the rear. What I wanted to show is the way boards are stored. Since I shall not get back to this build until next weekend, all boards are stickered and clamped using steel square sections. The steel sections are inexpensive galvanised mild steel. These are covered in vinyl duct tape to prevent any marks on the wood and ease in removing glue ... Done for the day ... Enough for the case (top/bottom and sides), which will be through dovetailed with mitred corners, the stock for 4 legs (yet to be turned), and rails for the legs (the legs will be staked mortice-and-tenon) and attached with a sliding dovetail. Regards from Perth Derek
  29. 14 points
    I know I didn’t know what one was either, it’s a fancy board for cheese, meat, veggies and dip, crackers, used for when friends or family get together. This one is for my wife’s birthday, Hard Maple and Sapele with box joints on the ends and bent lamination strips down the middle, thanks for looking guys
  30. 14 points
    Yeah so I'm supposed to be working on dining chairs. My excuse was I needed to get material before i could progress on the project but in reality I really wanted to make something for my shop. So while i waited for a chance to get a lumber order into my schedule I grabbed a bunch of the 8/4 cherry i got a good deal on.Why cherry? Because everyone does maple and I want to do something different.. ( I also got the cherry for a steal. I didn't want to be wasteful with the lumber and the boards I had were odd widths. Everything was 7-7/8" wide which is frustrating. So i ripped half the boards I needed with 1 extra. I then took the too narrow boards and proceeded to make them wider. This is a bench not a piece of furniture so if some glue seams show up on end grain so be it. Odds are it's not going to be noticeable. The boards I laminated to get the needed thickness were placed towards the center. I also had some boards with heavy wane. I made sure that I coordinated them within the slab and used them as the picture below shows better than I can explain. Yep there is a big void in the center of my bench towards the bottom. Do I care? Heck no! it's going to be buried inside the bench never to be seen what does it matter? One of the boards had some really awesome figure. So I pulled one piece of that board out to make it the front laminate. The 2nd board was used as the show face of the rear slab. The board for the rear slab was a tiny bit thin so there is a piece laminated to the bottom. I tried to grain match it some and get a similar color board. In the end it's hard to tell and I'm happy with it. After lots of milling and emptying this thing twice, I got al the material for the slabs milled and together. I even used cherry dominoes for alignment. I used Marc's hit and miss planing method to somewhat straiten the boards. This worked well and left me a LOT more material than he ended up with. I was able to do my rear slab with 6 pieces instead of 7 and my front is 4 pieces with a random stick of 3/4" thrown in for some extra width. While gluing the slabs together I was worried i was going to induce a bow. These boards were NOT strait at this point. I rotated them to offset as much as possible but in the end the chance that the slabs would be strait is low. SO i stacked the deck in my favor. Bent lamination uses a form to hold a curve the opposite can also be done. So i grabbed the front laminate strip and jointed it perfectly strait. I then rotated it and clamped it along both slabs during glue up and this will ensure that the side is strait and because all the boards are an even thickness everything is parallel. In practice this worked just as well as in theory. My 52" veritas strait edge confirmed that these guys are laser strait. I used some winding sticks and confirmed that they were free of twist. Holy !!!!! These things are heavy! Next up is end cap and the mortise and stuff. I trimed the front slab to length and then cut the tenon. I glued up some walnut that I scored of C_list a while ago for cheap. This stuff was some guys shorts, and were like 18" long and perfect for this. The color ended up being surprisingly beautiful. I cut the mortise in the end cap easy peasy. I extended the mortise and am setting my bench up to be able to come apart. I don't have the BC hardware yet and will probably use this bench for a while before I buy the tail vise. I'll buy the leg vise prior to completing the bench. So I drilled the holes in the end cap and am using some 6" long spax screws to attach it to the front slab. Now the first big OH !@$(%! moment happens. I realized I drilled the internal hole with a 1-3/8" forstner bit instead of a 1-1/2" bit. So taking a breath I grabbed a block of walnut because it's what i had sitting in the scrap bin. I drilled a hole all the way through like 1/16", this is the guide for the forstner bits. I drilled one side with the 1-3/8" bit and the other with the 1-1/2" bit. I used the smaller bit to line up the block on the outside of the bench. I fed it through the inside as seen below. Once i had the block lined up on the outside I used the 1-1/2" bit to drill the rest of the way through the guide block and into the end cap. After I got a good way into the end cap i took everything apart and finished the hole on the drill press to make sure that it was strait. Next is the dog hole strip. After reading the part on this. I decided my time was worth more than the cool factor of square dogs. So I glued up three 3/4" pieces and made the dog hole strip. To get everything lined up I ran dominoes through all 3 laminations and into the bench. The dominoes were 65mm long and this worked flawlessly. So here we sit. As i work through this I'll hit periods where glue needs to dry. I"m going to take that time to work on the templates for the dining chairs and get the bent lamination mold for the back rest started. This walnut color is going to look awesome with finish.
  31. 14 points
    4 file drawers and 2 small on top. Yet to come an 8/4 walnut top.. Then open shelves above...And another 8/4 top above the shelves... Panels are mill run fas walnut book matched. First project with my new Jessem. Very user friendly.And powerful with a 3.25hp porter cable.
  32. 14 points
    I made this bench for my mechanic, in payment for some auotmobile work I needed done. I made a profit from that trade. Curly Cherry and a live edge.
  33. 14 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  34. 14 points
    Here is the piece I have been working on these last few weeks. (Thanks again to those who helped me with a couple of urgent matters that arose). I have a few name ideas I'm considering, but haven't settled on one yet. I plan to take this to the American Association of Woodturners meeting later this month, so I have a little time on that. Technique is the same as I have described before, although this time I cut back the sides to slim the pillars and accentuate the shape.
  35. 14 points
    Well I dove into the deep end of the pool tonight and entered my first piece (Jewelry Chest) into the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild annual Northern Woods Exhibition April 25-28th This is way out of my comfort zone but in an effort to push myself even further in my woodworking I thought it might be helpful to get feedback from woodworkers much more talented than I as well as from the public. Here's hoping I don't regret this LOL
  36. 14 points
    Teaching the next generation of woodworkers to source materials, use tools and make useful things. I had some wasted space between two garage doors. We made a small shelf unit to fit between the doors. We were able to place all of my garage products on this shelf in an organized manner. She became familiar with project layout, woodworking concepts and the use of tools. No longer scarred of using machinery. So much for my "toxic masculinity".
  37. 14 points
    Here is bowl number 18. It's titled "Embraced"--my wife thought it up, and I thought it was a great name. I used the three sided bowl technique I previously described, then carved away two of the pillars to leave a very open view of the "outside in" surface. I was going for a suggestion of heart shape, but I love the way the two pillars rise up to the bowl. Hence the name. The wood is hard maple and the finish is polyurethane varnish.
  38. 14 points
    Megan has been requesting fresh herbs in the kitchen for a while. So i decided to make a rack that hangs by the window in our kitchen to put some potted herbs on. Light is important so i researched grow lights and found all the stoner options on pretty much every site out there. Those are a no go, A. I'm not a stoner and the lights don't look cool, B. I'd like something that blends in. So i researched what light plants need and remembered all those you tubers that got lights from American green light. What the heck I'll give them a shot. The joinery was screws that were plugged. I made treys to hold the pots that had some empty space underneath to hid the lights so when you look at it the light just seems to appear. To run the wires i kerfed the back of the vertical supports and hot glued the wires in. The key was to be flexible in case the idea didn't hit the mark. The whole thing was made from cherry because i have scraps that need to get used. The bottom trey is taller to hide the LED ballast. Here you can see the ballast and the lights. These things are BRIGHT!!!!! and awesome. They are perfectly color balanced so my camera picks up color like i'm under sunlight. I got the 4000k versions of the LEDs because the 5000K ones irritate my eyes and 3000K look yellow. I ran some super overkill cord. The power cord is 16 ga SOOW to run a 24 watt led ballast..... I didn't have any lamp cord and this is what i had around. Did half laps for the first time to make mounting brackets to attach the rack to the wall. On the brackets i fastened figure 8s and used screws and anchors to hold it up there. In the picture above on the left side there is a little leg that braces against the window frame. This makes it so the screws only need to hold sheer forces. Did a test run before i warpped it up to make sure that everything was going to work out ok. Lights were nice, they didn't overly illuminate the kitchen when it's dark but they put a LOT of lights on the plants. Turned out Megan loves it. I wrapped the pots and seeds for herbs separate and had her open the pots first and the seeds 2nd. She was so confused until she read the seed packets. After i got it hung she ended up having a great idea to get chalkboard stickers and write the plants names under their position. She was worried that i wouldn't go for it. I thought it was a great idea and told her it was her rack and gift so she could do with it as she pleased. I ended up buying some already growing herbs and we have started trying to germinate seeds for the rest of the types that we don't use as often. Here is a picture of it today. We have some germinated seeds we need to get into starter pots for a couple weeks and it should be full of mature herb plants by March. I'm so impressed by the American Green Light lights that i'm going to work to convert my shop lights over to their system. They match sunlight so well and the color balance is more relaxing to the eye. they are also very low profile so i should be able to mount them places that regular fixtures just won't work. There is no reason that light fixtures need to be big any more. The whole project took me 3 hours or something. Finish is just shellac. I figured the finish is going to get abused by water so why not go with something somewhat durable but easy to repair.
  39. 14 points
    Bowl #17. I have titled it Half Moon. I finished this just before Christmas, but I didn't get around to setting up the photo booth for some pictures until this weekend. My lovely wife complimented it many times while I was making it, so when these had exceeded spousal duty I decided I'd better make it a gift to her for Christmas. I think it came off rather well, too. Similar process to those I've done before, but variation on the shape, it has a lot of intriguing perspectives when I started photographing it. Hard maple with Bartley Gel Varnish. Bowl #18 is on the lathe and I hope to have that done in the next week or two.
  40. 14 points
    Just finished this barn for a friend's Grandson. Basic box is Baltic birch plywood with redwood "boards" glued to it. At least I think it is redwood. I salvaged it from my garage door jambs when I replaced them. Trim is maple and roof is a veneer strips on plywood, shellaced to darken the color. Friend is very happy. Animals are by owner. Freind says that she has had 3 people who want to buy one and one the wants to buy the plans. It was just too much work to be able charge a reasonble amount unless I could figure out a way to batch 3 together and avoid cutting the boards around the openings. Also, the roofs would have to be part of the box - too much work to make them as separate pieces. Plus I am out of redwood. I think I will just quietly move on to the next project.
  41. 14 points
    I wasn't certain where to post this so mods please move if needed. I took a ton of photos during this build but I certainly won't bore you with all those and I have a few videos but none in presentation form. The build is well documented and I may do a video compilation one day if I have time. I've mentioned this many times over the last couple of years and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  42. 13 points
    I finally finished with this project. The top is made from a single piece of butternut and the bottom is made from a block of wood that was labelled English walnut, but turned out to be teak. This was the blank I asked about in the Wood section and @phinds was kind enough to evaluate. @Chestnut, I know you particularly wanted to see the figure, but after turning and sculpting there's almost nothing left of the indented grain pattern. There is a little visible in the right hand pillar of the first two photo's.
  43. 13 points
    As I've promised I'm going to journal my next Maloof Rocker build. This is one of my favorite all time builds and this will be my 5th rocker in the past 2 years (third rocker of this year). I started building chairs about 4 years ago and it has become an obsession to me. During that time period I've built approx 30 chairs. I've learned a lot along the way. For all those who have been wanting to start this build I'd encourage you to get started, it is a challenging but immensely satisfying build. Since this is a guild project I'll be following basically Marc's instructions and I'll point out where I've deviated from his directions. Marc does a great job with this build and with my first rocker I followed his directions down to the letter. Since then I've built chairs that were from plans supplied by Charles Brock and Scott Morrison. I've picked up a few tricks from these guys and my build will be an amalgamation of what I've learned from all three. The wood will be some gorgeous curly hard maple from @Spanky, I'm excited to use this lumber. I ordered two batches from him and one batch is a little more curly than the other, but I think it will all look great in the end. I know one thing, I'm saving every scrap of this during the build. Finally, in some of my past builds many of you have asked how long it takes me for one of these builds, I'll try my best to record the time I take to complete each step and try to keep a running tally as I go. I originally thought I'd start this around Thanksgiving, but I'm getting an earlier start. This build will be slow though, as it's prime surf fishing season here in the Mid-Atlantic region, and I'll be playing hooky from work and from the shop to wet a line. Started the project by going thru the stock and began milling the parts. The seat is made from 5 pieces, approx 4" wide and 22" long. I had a board that was 11" wide, I was able to get two 22" lengths from this board and then I was able to get two 4.25" wide boards from each length and one 2.5" wide board from each length. I glued these two thinner boards together to make the center board for the seat; Back legs, always good to get these from the same board and I had nice grain to follow at the bottom of the leg, headrest will likely come from the piece above and the adder blocks will come from the waste between the legs; The front legs and the arms; The back slats, you need 7, I'll cut out 8; The plan calls for the width of the back slats is to be 1.5", I like my slats a little skinnier, these will be around 1.25", to me wide back slats look clunky. No matter how wide the main part of the back slat is, it still goes down to a 3/8th" tenon into the headrest, so thinner back slats are not weaker; This is my piece for the rocker laminations, unfortunately I found some bark inclusions as I was prepping. I should have enough usable material and I can work around those inclusions; Once stock selection was completed I moved on to the 5 seat boards. Glued up the 2 skinnier boards, jointed, planed and cut to length. Once that is completed I need to cut the 3 degree bevels for the coopered seat. These bevels will be on both sides of the middle board and on the out side of both boards that join with the middle board. You can see the direction of the bevels marked on the end of the boards in this pic; ****Real quick, a point about the coopered seat, I've done these seats both ways, coopered and just flat. I do like the coopered look a little better, but it's not extreme. The flat seat also looks pretty darn good. The coopered seat is definitely an option you can use or skip.**** Cutting the bevels, table saw set at 3 degrees: Bevels cut and marking out domino placement; This next step is really a little tricky, you need to domino into a beveled surface on some boards. Marc does a nice job of this and cuts all his slots with the 90 degree guide on the domino retracted, and the base of the domino sitting on his workbench. This results in a domino slot positioned toward the bottom of the boards and out of the way for future sculpturing, but is very difficult to do on boards 2 and 4, as the bevel orientation makes it difficult to get a correctly positioned domino slot and have it perpendicular with the face of the board. But his technique works great for the centerboard joints. Below is a pic of the domino cutting the slots into the centerboard, you put the domino on the bench and slightly tilt to the face is perpendicular the the joint, it's hard to see if it's tilted, but it is, the opposing surface for this joint is 90 degrees, so you simply put the domino on the bench and plunge into the 90 degree surface; Now with the other joints, the angle of the bevel prevents you for doing what I did above. So instead I set the angle of the domino to 87 degrees and cut the slot using the fence. To do this you need to put the fence on the bottom of the board as the reference for your plunge cut; Charles Brock handles cutting the dominos a little differently than Marc did, and I do a mix of their techniques. Now that the dominos slots are cut, I assemble and cut the seat to the correct width, you do this by cutting the excess equally for both outside boards. Once the width is correct I draw the outline for sculpting the seat; Pre-sculpting bandsaw reduction is next. I want to cut my reduction with the 90 degree side of boards 2 and 4 on the bandsaw table, in this pic you see which side is which; I then draw a line 1" from the bottom and develop a reduction cut line from that. I take a lot off, I want a deep seat; Here's the board on the bandsaw, 90 degree jointed surface on the table. You can also see from the above pic I've got plenty of stock over my domino slots. The center board is tricky, you have a bevel on both sides; You can mess with your bandsaw table and put it at 3 degrees, or you can just cut from both sides, as the cut angles toward the surface and the end result is just a ridge in the middle of the board where your 2 cuts intersect; Here are my 3 center boards with their pre-sculpting cuts, you can see in the center board I just have a little ridge, toward the front I've cut out an outline for the pommel; Next are the joints that are cut into the outside boards and some pre-sculpting shaping. It's easier to do some gross shaping while the boards are apart. Almost forgot, I'm about 3.5 hours into this.
  44. 13 points
    I got finish applied. I did 3 coats total on all the base parts for the table and benches. For the seats of the benches and the table top I put down 5 coats. The wood dents fairly easily so I'm a bit concerned on the long term durability. Beings this is for my sister I'm goign to tell her to use it hard and if I need to make a new top for it someday that will not be a problem. Hopefully it fares better than I'm expecting and will just get little dents and scratches giving it good character instead. Table top thickness at 11/16" looks pretty good all things considered. I was a bit worried that leaning on it would cause the center of the table to sag a bit. I sat on the edge ... nothing. Stood in the center of the table ... nothing. I thought about doing a cleat or two to the underside to keep it flat but in the end i feel the table legs will accomplish that quite well. The heart wood of this birch is beautiful, Nothing wrong with the white sap wood but it juts doesn't have the depth and chatoyance that the heart wood does. Had to get that to come across in pictures. This bench was the worst offender for jointing and was cut into 5 parts. The glue lines are almost invisible. I used walnut wedges for securing the through tenon. I don't know why but I do LOVE wedged through tenons. The idea that i can make something very stable and sturdy and taking it apart and putting it together requires zero tools is just fun. IKEA can take a hike.
  45. 13 points
    Been working as a Christmas Elf for the past few weeks, trying to think up some simple gifts. Made some candleholders, a few bigger pieces of furniture, some boxes based on @gee-dub continuous grain boxes, great link here... But @Gary Beasley got me thinking when he was begging for slabs from @Spanky to make some bowls. Well I'm not much of a bowl turner, but with the development of my sculpting skills I thought this might be a great gift idea. Went out to my drying piles where slabs hold down the roofing, lean against the back of a drying shed, and a few extra ones are lying around waiting to be chainsawed into fire wood. I grabbed a walnut and cherry slab along with a hunk of paulownia. After knocking off all the bark I cut the slabs into chunks and jointed/planed to thickness. The thickness was dependent on the usable wood in the hunk. Then I drew random bowl shapes onto the hunks, avoiding cracks and defects. Once again the wood dictated the shape I drew. Now it was outside my shop where I completed aggressive wood removal with the angle grinder. After a few days and some sanding, scraping and anything I had to smooth the bowl, I had 10 great looking organic shaped bowls. All the slabs were a few years old and dry, hoping no cracks develop but we'll soon find out. Here are what I saved from the fireplace; Second batch; Not bad for a few days of grinding and shaping. Thanks for looking.
  46. 13 points
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  47. 13 points
    Good morning guys. Thanks for the thoughts and prayers. Internet and cell service are not reliable right now but we're safe. Winds from last night to now have been helpful for me. A lot of people woke up with homes yesterday and are waking up without them today. Go hug your family.
  48. 13 points
    It's DONE !!!! 9 pm on Friday night and I am exhausted ! I think I'm going to sleep late tomorrow.
  49. 13 points
    My new apprentice began today. First thing I taught him was the Mike Pekovich blue tape trick for laying out mortises (which works great by the way). Not sure if Mike will appreciate my grandson’s interpretation, but he’s in the shop. He says it’s an airplane. Fine by me. He seems to really enjoy making things and I’m going to encourage that every time I get the opportunity. At the bench, working out some design issues. He’s just like grandpa, has a running conversation with himself in the shop. After three coats of Summer allergies snot, it’s ready to go. Pass your love of craft on. The next Krenov may be lurking at your bench.
  50. 13 points
    Thougt I would share this veneer project. The hanging is 26" diameter made with Robbon sapele and Tamo Ash veneer. Assmebling peices. Blue tap used to pull pieces together and hold unitl veneer tape can be put on the show side of the piece. After Veneer taping and gluing in vacuum bag. Notice that glue was suckked thru the sapele. Scraped of easily - no big deal. Unfinished pics. Finishes pics - 7 coats on minwax clear gloss poly.