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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/22/18 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    A member here, aka @wdwerker had some input on the dimensions of the legs, aprons and stretchers. And welcomingly so as I think the shape of a John Deere tractor is attractive. I cut several patterns for the legs from mdf and he picked one. After milling the legs to final size, I cut a mock up leg to practice on. Shown on the left. The color change is due to the fact that had to laminate a slice of walnut to a chunk of poplar to get the full 2ā€. Then I took the mdf pattern and transferred it to my leg blanks, doing my best to make it dummy proof. Next, I took the marked off blanks to the bandsaw to remove the waste and tapied the offcut back to the the blank. This not only allowed me a surface on the second cut but came in handy later. Even after double and triple checking, there was considerable pucker, wondering if I was cutting the right sides. As luck, not skill, would have it, I amazed myself. From there, they went to the router table and using the pattern as a guide, I used a 1/2ā€ flush trim bit to rough cut it. Then to the oscillating spindle sander, spokeshave and finally a sanding block to semi finesse them. Forgot to take pics of the semi final product. Next up are the aprons and stretchers. Same as for the legs. Pattern from mdf and rough cut on the bs. Then onto the router table for cleanup. Then again to the spokeshave and sanding block. Double stick tape is my friend.
  2. 3 points
    So I finally pulled the trigger. I got a square scraper, 1/2 inch bowl gouge (which I promptly put a fingernail grind on with my new) and the PSI sharpening jig. I'm really happy with the results with he jig and new steel so far. I managed to get an edge sharp enough to cut my finger like a razor would, so that's a plus (kinda). I haven't had the chance to turn anything with them yet, but I have a hard maple blank just screaming to be turned into a dice tray (seem my previous tray made from Paduk and curly maple). Hopefully this week! Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
  3. 3 points
    Well the carcase was finally glued up, everything square as can be ... and I forgot to take a photo of this! However, while planing the outside, I discovered that the black walnut required nothing more advanced than a simple single-blade common angle plane. Many years ago I received a smoother from Steve Knight. This was the first occasion I got to use it. Just wonderful to work this wood! The next step was to complete the vertical dividers. These were inserted and, with some relief, these were square as well. A reward for attention to detail? The photo below shows the next steps: the stopped dados need to be extended, and the faces of the dividers need to be shaped to match the angles of the carcase. The dados are marked to 12mm from the edge ... ... and chiselled and pared away ... These were then glued in place (yes, I got that one! ) ... During the dry fit I had been careful to fit them flush with the rear rebates, and then saw them parallel. This made it easier to ensure that they were glued square (since the fronts could be flush with the lower edge of the carcase, but not the upper edge, which has an overhang) ... Time now to install the drawer blades. These were positioned loose, as before ... To fit them to the stopped dados, the front was marked out ... Below the rebates are marked and knife walls cut .. The first saw cut is across the top to establish the face ... Then saw diagonally along the vertical line ... .. before finishing on the horizontal ... This will maximise obtaining a straight saw cut. This is the fit once all is done ... The drawer blades will remain loose until the drawers are completed, since they still need to be used as a template for each drawer. At the rear of the cabinet, the drawer blades are marked for length and sawn flush (in the photo below, half are flush, with half to go) ... All done. Each is marked for repositioning ... So that is it for this past weekend. The drawers are next. Curved fronts and compound dovetails. How much fun is that! Regards from Perth Derek
  4. 1 point
    That is a fantastic idea. I also like the new idea that some people have had with inverted Christmas trees. They save so much floor space especially for rooms with tall ceilings. Tall trees are like 6' in diameter at the bottom which is huge! Also one can't have too much storage for wood. As soon as i get this done I'm going to hit up Cremona for some lumber for a future Roubo.
  5. 1 point
    Won't matter much if it's on wheels. You probably won't unload it to move it will you ? Price isn't much more but 1/2" will be much stiffer and add rigidly. Even 3/4" would work better unless your clearances are too tight to allow the extra thickness. I tend to overbuild things and then expect them to last 30 years or more. So far it's paid off for me. And if the base is sectional you can break it apart if you ever relocate.
  6. 1 point
    Your doing some good work Ken.
  7. 1 point
    The only problem with clamps that are longer than you need is when the excess bar gets in the way. I have cut a few clamps down to 18" when I couldn't get that size in the type of clamp I was after. Like cutting fence rails on a tablesaw, there is always the fear of wanting that length back. With clamps though you can always add longer ones if actually required later.
  8. 1 point
    I don't know how I missed this thread, but am just now seeing it. I'm glad you went with treated for the sills. Railroad ties last good on top of ballast stone, but the creosote does leach out when in contact with the ground. I used them to outline our Dressage arena, and in maybe 15 years they were splitting all to pieces, with no signs of the brown, creosote color left, but of course, they were out in the weather. I'd double up that one second story floor joist that carries half the load of the one in front of it.
  9. 1 point
    Several things here. Lived in LA for 8 years and miss the crawfish boil but leave sucking the heads to the Cajuns. Second, the table will be a great project. Third, I would encourage the boy to get outside once in a while to experience a world that doesn't run on batteries. Fourth, remind him that the table will be an heirloom. My daughter has two solid walnut end tables that were my mother's. They were bought about 1960. Can't remember what happened to the round coffee table and the rectangular coffee table. They were all solid walnut.
  10. 1 point
    Ive somehow missed this so far. Great progress Ken. This should end up being an amazing piece cherishes forever, And btw, I really like Steve's idea of bringing your grandson in on the build for something. At your age, we may need him to finish the journal for us at some point ; )
  11. 1 point
    It's coming along nicely Coop. Glad to offer up an opinion, your the one who has to follow through !
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Looking awesome Coop!
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    looking forward to the build. Thanks
  16. 1 point
    Huh. What did you say.....
  17. 1 point
    Many years ago I processed a full flatbed truck of black walnut. Instructions from both the mill and kiln were to air dry 1 month. The kiln would take another month. It was all 4/4
  18. 1 point
    When I first read this I thought you were referring to our rainfall...
  19. 1 point
    Foamies stay in my pocket all the time. They get washed when the pair of pants/shorts get washed. If something is really loud, I'll wear muffs over the foamy's.
  20. 1 point
    It might be worth your while, to look into the American made Dubuque clamps. I have several and they are the first clamps I grab, for almost anything.
  21. 1 point
    Late to the party here. There are currently four versions of SketchUp available, two of them are "free for personal use". SketchUp Make, the previous "free" version is no longer being updated annually with SketchUp Pro. But the last iteration "SketchUp Make 2017" is still available for download, and according to the folks at SketchUp it will continue to be available in the future. The link is a little hard to find, but it is here: https://www.sketchup.com/download/all The new web-based version is "SketchUp Free". I'm not a big fan of web-based software, but "Free" works pretty well, and is improving on a regular basis. SketchUp Pro has all the bells and whistles; solid tools that let you make one part of a joint from an existing part with a couple of clicks, and an additional program called "LayOut" that makes printing easier in general and gives the ability to create professional looking prints. You can also import and export vector graphics files from SketchUp Pro. To get SketchUp Pro you pay an initial license fee (currently $695). There is an annual fee (currently about $120) that keeps you up to date and access to support. A couple of weeks ago, "SketchUp Shop" was announced. It is the web-based software with several of the Pro features included. It costs $120/year for a subscription.
  22. 1 point
    I'm sure they work. Bessy is a good brand. I have and use a lot my short jorgenson pony pipe clamps. My shortest is around 12" and graduate from there. I also have several jorgensons on a heavy rail. 8 of them. Not complaining but I got several clamps second hand so cheap there was no reason to consider alternatives. They were jorgensons and when I got more it was better to have them match. The rail clamps were also too cheap to say no.
  23. 1 point
    Got the front wall in place, and some sheeting up. A friend of mine needed some help with a retaining wall so i got him to help me get some shed building done. If some of the studs don't look strait it's because they aren't Apparently i had a difficult time knowing which side of my stud line i needed to place the stud on so some are skewed. I started working on the attic floor yesterday. I cut all the ceiling joists to length using my track saw again. Man I'll probably never use a miter saw for framing type carpentry work again. I took a picture before and after so you can see how much dust is captured by the TSC with the dust bag. I did end up stalling the saw on this cut when i tried to get the saw to cut as fast as i could push. If it didn't have a plywood blade on it this thing would be a monster. This was all the further i got. After this i went downtown to visit my aunt and uncle that just moved into a high rise off of Nicollet Mall. You can see Bird Death stadium on the right hand side of the picture. When i got home i wanted to work more on the shed but then realized that i need to get a tree planted before it just died in a pot.
  24. 1 point
    I completed the finish process on the table two weeks ago and then the table just sat in the shop because of other things asking for my time. This morning I finally got the old table out and the new one into the house. It came in, in two pieces. For one it is heavy, and two logistically it was just the easier way. Down side to this is the tight space and lighting didn't lend itself to good pictures but here it is. Any and all comments and constructive criticism are welcome. One of the challenges of the project was to get the finish close to the same as the chairs we had purchased and over all I think I came real close. I don't think anybody off the street would know that the table was built separate from the chairs, but I will let you be the judge and let me know what you think.
  25. 1 point
    Good looking legs Coop. They should turn out nicely. I had to google what a crawfish boil was. Iā€™d never heard of it before. Just spent 10mins watching a bloke on YouTube making one.
  26. 1 point
    I have no insight into the bosch glide, but I made a dust hood for my dewalt scm and over the years have had no complaints I use it daily when in the shop before it was a dusty mess in the scm area, now mess is contained to a garbage can. I have a potable stand for my dewalt when working in someones home I take the hood with me it contains the dust to the garbage can easy peasy.