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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/18 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    It's been a while guys. I haven't done anything on the fine side of woodworking recently but I have done a few things over the past few months, mostly some little honey do's. I'll start back around xmas time. First up I made some maple and canary wood cutting boards for gifts. Nothing special but I like how they came out. Around the same time I also made a couple knives, one was a gift for my dad and the other was for me. I made mine with a single bevel as I've always wanted to try a single bevel knife. I'm not a super big fan now that I've made it, it cuts curved in hard veggies. It's great for thin slices of soft stuff and herbs though. Super sharp and holds an edge well. Steel is O1 tool steel, I also made an electric kiln to do the heat treatment in. The wood is thuya burl. More recently I've made a few of these garden flag holders from redwood. Pretty simple to knock out for mothers day gifts. Copper pipe with cap for the flag rod and a piece of rebar stuck in the bottom to hold it upright. I think I've made 4 of these now, quite the hit with the women in the family. Then I got suckered into making some planter boxes for some succulents my fiance has been raising for her to give away on mothers day. Knocked out a few of these in one night, again nothing fancy but they went over great. Couple stop block setups, nails and glue. Same redwood but I left them unfinished. Then I got talked into making a small planter box for my fiances basil that never got replanted. This one was kinda fun, I made the bottom so it dropped into the wedge shape of the box. I have a feeling the bottom may end up splitting the sides though when it gets wet. Will be fun to see how long it takes to happen. Also got suckered into making a pair decorative planter boxes for the porch out of some scraps I had left over from the kitchen ceiling. These have a pot inside so they don't have contact with the dirt. Just pine with some stain. Don't remind the other half I'm supposed to make her one more longer one to match. And lastly a couple pictures of my kitchen ceiling. I decided to go with a T&G pine so I didn't have to do drywall above my head. Finally making some progress on the kitchen remodel. I'm drawing up plans for the cabinets now, I'm going to start with the upper cabinets first.
  2. 4 points
    Well the build is pretty much done, just need to add the crubber to the chop and dogs, some sanding and apply the finish. Benchcrafted hardware works like a dream. I will post some final pics once the finish is on. Supposed to hit 94 degrees here in N Idaho today so the shop is closing up and the house a/c is going on!
  3. 3 points
    Got the top on finally we have had quite the heat wave here in the Northeast so haven't done much. Started to trim it out with the walnut then I will mount the end vise next . I need you guy's opinion I want to plug the holes not quite sure if I should do it with walnut plugs.Or use pine like the rest of the bench for some contrast against the walnut any opinions would be greatly appreciated
  4. 2 points
    So i have a slow day at work, FINALLY!, so i figured I'd share with you guys my thoughts on the festool saw i purchased. This is not only a review of the Festool TSC 55 Li REB + Airflow Batteries but als a review of the festool recon webstore. I went though some of this in my shed build but figured i'd condense it and add some more info. A while ago i was told about festool's recondition website. It operates like woot! where a recon tool is offered until it sells out then they move to the next one. I bought the saw through that website and it shipped and was at my door in 4 days. It said reconditioned but it arrived looking brand new. The sander i had bought previously had the cord wrapped up so tightly it ended up turning into a 1980s phone cord which was annoying. So far so good for Festoolrecon. Features: The saw came in it's systainer and had the blade installed and everything was in place. For all i know it was a brand new saw and if you told me it was a recon I'd have no idea. Notable feature differences between the TSC 55 and my other saw the TS75 is the fine tune depth adjustment. There is a threaded knob on the top of the depth adjustment so you can fine tune the depth if needed. The other thing that is note worth is that it uses batteries and comes with a dust bag. The dust bag is nice and I'll cover that later. At first i didn't realize the saw didn't come with batteries and a charger. I was bummed that this would make it cost more but in fact it didn't. The cost was about the same as buying the unit with batteries and a charger except now i get new batteries not recon ones. The saw came with a 48 tooth blade which is good for ply but probably not the best for solid wood. The saw can supposedly be run with all festool batteries the 15V included. You can even mix and match. It also runs off one battery but i don't suggest it the power and blade sped is on the lower side. Batteries: The batteries i got are the 18v air stream versions that are newish. They pair with a charger that has a fan that moves air through the battery as it charges it to keep the cells and electronics cool. It does this to be able to increase the charge rate to charge the 5.2 A/hr batteries in 30 min. As typical for my Li-ion batteries i usually don't discharge them fully before charging them. The tech in Li-ion is a bit different than the old nickel batteries from 15 years ago. Li-ion doesn't develop memory but instead has a limited number of full cycles. From research it was determined that charging the batteries more frequently helps prolong the life of the battery. I've found this to be accurate so far with my electronics so i utilize the strategy with my tools. Charge time: After cutting roughly 200 lin ft of 1/2" ply the batteries each dropped to 1 bar took about 10 min to top off. That is absurdly fast. The cut power doesn't decrease as the batteries drain but instead they hit the end and just stop. I like this especially for saws. I did fully drain the batteries once and it took 30 min per battery to do a full charge which is still absurdly fast in my opinion. It takes my 3 A/hr cell phone battery 2+ hours to charge from fully dead. Power: I was very surprised with the power of the unit. I was able to crosscut 2x6s pretty easily. On my shed build i lined a bunch of the material up and made the cuts all in 1 go. I was able to feed the saw as fast as i would on 3/4" ply which is pretty dang fast. Total cut time for the 7 2x6s was probably 15 seconds. When running a single battery it's a lot easier to stall the saw. but i still could cut 48" of 1/2" ply with 1 battery in short order. Dust Collection: I have yet to run this saw with a CT vac and honestly won't. The dust bag collects almost all of the dust. The dust that does escape isn't any more than what escapes my TS 75 That only gets run with the CT vac. The bag isn't large and does fill fast. I could cut about 50 feet of ply before i'd need to empty it. When you do over fill the bag it becomes very apparent how well the bag is doing it's job. Dust goes everywhere. In the picture below you can see how much does comes out after cutting the 2x6s. I had the area swept clean before the cut. This area is where i give the saw it's first knock. The bag and how the handle is laid out on the saw tends to make a mess. When you hold the saw by the handle 1 handed the noes goes down and the bag dumps into the body of the saw. Worst case this clogs the dust port, but usually saw dust just falls out of the saw through where the blade cuts. They have a handle on top for carrying it that solves this problem but I'm not always carrying the saw that way. Weight: The other question people are going to have is with 2 batteries how much does the saw weigh? It weighs a bit less than my TS 75. So more than a typical TS 55 but it's not unmanageable. I messed up some sheathing on the shed and had to use the saw on a ladder above my head and it was manageable. I chose using this saw and not a regular circular saw 1 because battery powered and 2 because of the design you can cut closer to an edge. Conclusion: Expensive but worth it. Great dust collection, great power and fast charge time. Batteries are interchangeable with other festool tools. Built to the standard you'd expect from Festool.
  5. 2 points
    Craigslist find. A reclaimed wood millwork shop was advertising a mystery wood they called Acacia. They said they sent a sample to a lab many years ago and it came back as a member of the acacia family from Hawaii. The boards were each 8 ft long, 20" wide by 8/4 thick for $20 a piece. I picked up 7 of them. Planed down, they look like paduak, but with a less discernible grain structure. All-in-all a decent looking wood. So I was happy with my score. Here's where it gets better though... While I was picking those wide boards up, the guy showed me another stack of narrower, 8" wide boards that he thought were the same thing. They had more of a grain structure than the other one, so I thought they might be different, but it was a little hard to tell because the wood was so grayed out from being outside for 17 years. Anyway, I picked up 10 of those (at $10 each). When I got home, I planed one of the narrower boards down and here's what I found: Sure looks like Sapele to me. So, I got about 100 bd ft of what appears to be sapele for about $1 bd/ft! Here's the whole stack, with the wide mystery acacia on the bottom:
  6. 2 points
    Eat well and take no prisoners.
  7. 2 points
    Well we have really good .... OMG Squirrel.
  8. 2 points
    Swings have been around for centuries. Tables have been around for centuries. The rational for not putting the two together has been around for centuries.
  9. 1 point
    Dating a structure by taking core samples from timbers that have some of the bark edge left from the tree they were hewed out of, and comparing the ring sizes to others in the database of known dates. Today, Mick Worthington came to an old house I've worked on, on and off, over the past 7 years. The told history never made a lot of sense to me, and as I got into working on the house, there were things about it that made it look a lot older, to me, than the told history. The only way to prove when the house was built was by Dendrochronology. There are several possibilities for interesting, and important history, for the most likely dates that this house was built. Anyway, this is about the dendro process, and not about that history. Mick has done this for a living since the mid '90's. It was required in the UK before any work could be done on old houses, which most over there are. After spending 15 billion dollars hosting the Olympics, some things had to be cut. Long story short, Mick came to the New World to work. Today he was pulling cores for the Foundation that this house belongs to, at my request. The two main rooms in this house had the plaster taken out, the ceilings dropped, and sheetrock put up, by the family that lived in it up into the 1970's. We pulled all that new junk out this past Fall, and it exposed prime candidates from which to pull the Dendro cores. The drill bits are very specialized. For these particular ones, that leave the least damage to the timber, the cutter is only about 5/8" long on the business end, and open in the middle, to leave the core. There are several different lengths, so you don't just use the longest one for the whole core because it is possible to bend them. The tubular shaft is not very thick, so regardless of how fancy the steel is in it, it's still possible to bend one, and they're not cheap. It takes a lot longer to drill one core than you might think. Mick pushes the cutter in until the cutter end fills, then has to withdraw it, clean the end with a small brass welding brush, and take another 1/2" cut, repeating over, and over, until after switching to the longer bit when the shorter ones go to their max depth, he has drilled all the way through the timber. The bit is pulled back out, with the core in it, and the core is very carefully pushed out with a dowel. He then marks on it which framing member it came out of by counting joists from the end, or whatever type of framing member it is relative to where it is in the structure. Big Mike and I helped him move his stuff around, and using one of my plastering stages, he was surprised that he was able to pull ten cores in about 6 hours. He's not used to having help, and mostly works off of ladders. Most of his time spent on these jobs is at the microscope measuring the core rings, and most of the time a computer finds the match once the data is all entered. He had done many buildings, with such interesting ones when he was in the UK as the Tower of London, and several of the Royal Palaces. I think the pictures will make it a little clearer. We finished the day up in the attic, which was probably 130 degrees, and when we came down in the house, it felt like the AC was on even though the house has no electricity, and it was probably really 88 degrees in there. Some friends of ours that bought one of my lake houses over 25 years ago weren't using their house, so Mitch and his Archaeologist Wife are staying in that, and have been eating with Pam and I. We've had a great time, and they're staying an extra day, just to enjoy the lake tomorrow. This is either going to turn out to be a major historic find, or I'll look like a chump for convincing the Foundation to spend this 2,500 dollars. More later on that, after we know for sure. I haven't told this story yet, even to the Foundation Board, but thought you guys would appreciate it.
  10. 1 point
    Looks exactly like some blotchy blue stain I have seen on anigre. No idea if/how you can get it out.
  11. 1 point
    Brendon, that is a tough question. I pretty much followed Marc’s video instruction on the build and just took my time. Unlike you there is no way I could build this bench in 17 days! It is actually a fairly straight forward project, nothing too complex in the build other than dealing with large pieces of wood. It is imperative your jointer and planer are dialed in perfectly to get nice square pieces. I quickly found my jointer beds were not perfectly co-planer and it shows up quickly on long pieces of stock. You make a lot of planer shavings in this project, I think I emptied my 55 gal dust collection bin 4 times during the build. The other thing is to purchase a good 1/2” uncut spiral bit (I have a Whiteside 2” long bit) and a good strong plunge router with a good edge guide. I am fortunate to have a Festool OF2200 so the work went very smoothly. I think the last learning for me was getting the offset drawbore holes perfectly in line with the holes in the legs is critical, if the offset hole is off centerline of the holes in the legs the rail will draw in and slightly up or down if alignment is off, even with tight fitting tenons. As I said in the beginning I wish I built this project years ago when I started using hand tools in my work, it will be the most used tool in my shop!
  12. 1 point
    It's not as bad as pallet pieces. Almost, but not quite. Hey!
  13. 1 point
    Hooray to the USA for not teaching our kids financial responsibility or the true meaning of frugality.
  14. 1 point
    I just don't understand all this hate for such a beautiful piece.
  15. 1 point
    LOL I have a federal piece on my bucket list but in all honesty the thought of spending that much time on a piece and then storing it in a closet is less than appealing. When I showed it to my wife she was like who's that for because it's not going in my house
  16. 1 point
    At the present time I would be more than glad to do the job. I would give a price of $249 and by the time you go get the lumber and legs along with building it and doing a finish your day is over. $ 200 for a day for me is better than waiting for a better job to start. I just did a small cherry top for someone for $89.00 and made $35 a hour. I guess a lot depends on if someone needs the money or not. If I didn't I would not want to work for anyone because I had so much more fun building whatever I like and working in shop stuff. PS...$249 sounds better than $250.. Oh I almost forgot,,, Please show your build.
  17. 1 point
    I tried to hold my tongue, but I can't. That table is absolutely the fugliest piece of rustic furniture I've ever seen. I have no other words.
  18. 1 point
    I about spit up my dr pepper on this one LOL
  19. 1 point
    Leave the banding on the bundle at the big box store and toss some legs on it
  20. 1 point
    Worked as long as I could stand, it's 100 here in the Mid-Atlantic and humid. When sweat is dripping onto the table saw you know you need to stop, esp when it's a sawstop. I thought a well placed drop of sweat might fire the brake. One other challenge with this project, I just upgraded to the sawstop and I didn't get the dado brake yet, so I had to cut the 3.25" dados in the seats with a thin kerf blade. Time consuming for sure. Here's my progress today; Started by refining and shaping the neck of the back support that the backrest attachs to; Then sanded this neck area to 320, you'll see I won't be able to easily get back to this area once the backrest is attached. Next was to start shaping the backrest, esp in the area of the neck. Here are my outlines to guide me. You can see from this picture how tight this area is. Now I scooped/shaped out the area in the backrest next to the seat support. And then rounded the underside of the backrest to blend in with the front bottom line angle of the backrest, taking away the flat area at the bottom of the backrest. Then sanded this area, the hard to reach area, to 320. The rest of the shaping will be done when the backrest is attached. Proceeded on to glueup for this backrest. With the area between the neck of the support and the backrest being so tight I was very concerned about glue run out, so I did not apply glue to the very bottom of the joint to help minimize glue run out. I figured glue would creep into this area when clamped. I added glue to the seat support the same way. Also applied the epoxy in a thin layer. This is were the greater thickness of the System Three epoxy was a big advantage. Once clamped I turned the piece over and will let the glue set up in this position. Minimal glue run out, if any occurred, pumped about that. Next I started working on the backrest for the walnut chair. Cut the dados while sweating, avoided tripping the sawstop brake, and then cut out the shape for this backrest. Glad I went as far as I did with the first backrest, as I was able to do a better cutout knowing what the next steps were. Here is all the waste from the walnut backrest. Finally called it a day once I saw the backrest fit well and looks great. Got some great grain with this on. I said I did this one slightly different than the cherry backrest, as I had thick enough stock to handle the concave cut and only needed to glue up enough wood in the back of it for the thickness of the dado. I really like this technique much better. Thanks for all the compliments, but please feel free to add any pointers or suggestions as I really did this journal as a challenge to myself and to get feedback. I will say I've enjoyed doing this journal much more than I thought I would. I'm also getting better at documenting the steps and showing the building process. Knowing you are going to show your work also challenges you to pay attention to detail. I've already looked back at some of the photos I've posted and I can see things I need to tweak and improve, these were things I didn't notice in the shop. Time to jump in the pool and cool off. Oh one last thing, Steve, I will be signing and dating these, no doubt.
  21. 1 point
    I follow a guy on Facebook, J. Kenji López-Alt, the Serious Eats/Food Lab guy. https://www.facebook.com/kenjilopezalt/ Food is his thing, but he's also a decent woodworker. He posted a photo of an outdoor table & benches that he made out of redwood that is just stunning. Even if you don't care for live edge stuff, you might like this.
  22. 1 point
    Beautiful slab! I personally hate the hare pin legs as they scream "too lazy to build a base" but, the wood is gorgeous!
  23. 1 point
    I got the base put together and added the bottom shelf, I am now at the point where I will need an extra pair of hands to move the base and attach the top. I am really hoping I don’t need to do much work to flatten the top.
  24. 1 point
    We used the Blums when we remodeled the kitchen. LOVE the adjustability of them.
  25. 1 point
    Pallet wood. .... Short story. I was in Tractor Supply the other day to see they carried inverter generators in store. Asked about pellet stoves because I was tired of looking at @Kevs stove..I was told they had one out back for $750 because it was a closeout item. it was a King stove and they cost about $1200 reg around here so I took it home hooked it up only to see a big flash when I plugged it in.. So the next day I took it back and they offered me this Ashley bay front for the same price. Its about a $1500 stove so I figured if I don't like it I could get my money out of it easy. I stuck it in just to try it and will be getting a new pipe kit and installing it right before winter. Its great for days that are not real cold. I'm going to keep my wood stove also for real cold temps and also do some insulating of the shop. Hope I don't break the darn glass in this thing.
  26. 1 point
    Wood moves, plans change. Parts get cut slightly too short so the entire project must adapt or the budget will suffer. This is a central reality to our world.
  27. 1 point
    Constant heat on the inside of the door isn't helping but if there is a hole in the bottom convection should make it workable. I've found that almost all commercially made flat slab veneered doors are made with a particleboard core. I don't love the stuff but it stays flat much better than plywood does. Long plywood doors do have a tendency to twist. https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=173 Look at BC82CS -S and BC82CS-N if you get one of each the combined power is 26 lbs of pull. That should be plenty to hold the door shut & flat if shimming the top left back corner doesn't work.
  28. 1 point
    This is the cabinet with a couple of the drawers in it: Secret compartment (one of two in it): Current location of the drawers: Yeah, I think I'll just build myself another one...
  29. 1 point
    So, build another cabinet around the drawers! No sense in letting all that effort go to waste.
  30. 1 point
    It's just that simple. Thanks!
  31. 0 points
    So I inherited my mother's dresser. Bought sometime in the early 1960s. It's pretty well built, dovetailed drawers made of beech, exterior is hard maple. It's very heavy and I've always been impressed with it's construction. But my wife thinks it's ugly, and you know maybe it is. It's that classic brown stain that everything was done in back in the day. So she hunted the internet and found one on ebay for $200... said we should sell it.