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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 29 points
    Some of you know, and some don't. My wife was diagnosed with cancer in 2015. She went through all the necessary treatments, radiation, chemotherapy and everything they had to stop the cancer. It worked, all that was left after 2 1/2 years of treatments was scar tissue. Hooray we thought, but hold on a minute. Why wasn't she recovering? She was weak, hardly able to walk, to eat, to have a good life again. It seems that the chemicals that are used to kill off the cancer cells, also do damage to other parts of the body. Those chemicals that saved my wife's life from cancer, destroyed her stem cells. Those are the cells in the bone marrow that produce red blood, white blood cells and the platelets that people need to live, you've got'em and be damned glad you do. Her immune system was gone, totally destroyed, any damn wandering germ could kill her, so we went full, hospital gowns, latex gloves, and masks for everyone, she was on oxygen 24/7. I had to take her to the ER more times than you cross cut wood in a week. But she was tough, she never gave up, Ask Coop, that bum talked to her every week, sometimes more. 3 1/2 months ago, after 6 blood transfusions, we were told she had maybe 6 months to live. She made it to 3 months. I was with her in her hospital room when she died. It ripped my heart out. When we were told that 6 months was a possibility, I began construction on a project, I'd never dreamed I'd do. A friend, a sawyer you all know as Spanky, donated the wood. Along time close friend, an ex scooter tramp helped me make and install the hearts and hand rail, and a damned good friend flew in from Texas to do an inlay of a cross that my wife had and wanted on her casket. Never in my life did I know such good friends. The casket was built from Sassafras, so she would have that wonderful fragrance all the way to heaven. The top was curly Cherry. I did a crude carving of two hearts on one part, and my good friend [A bum} did the inlay. She died on the 19th of this month, and I buried the love of my life on Friday the 26th . Just a few days ago, and it's not real even now. These are the pictures of those friends and the casket they helped to build for a very special human. You'll be able to tell who's who. The bearded bum is my scooter tramp friend, we go back to years that should be left unmentioned. The bum in the red shirt is Ken Cooper. Probably the nicest guy you'd ever want to know. I couldn't find the pic of Spanky, but if you can buy wood from this guy, he won't screw you. The rest is the short version of the build. I never wanted it to be used in my lifetime.Inside around where her hips and legs were going I saved most of the Sassafras and Cherry that I had to plane to make fit I scattered those shavings to give her that fragrance. Ken flew in for the burial, and some friends drove in from cajun country to see her off and sing her favorite song " Go rest high on that mountain". And that's where she is now, on top of a mountain called Monteagle, in Tennessee in the cemetery named for her maiden name O'Dear. and she's lying on the right hand of a man she loved......Her Father, George O'Dear. I hope I did her justice. ...........Rick
  2. 21 points
    I made a couple of jewelry boxes out of sepele for my daughters for Christmas. I haven't made any thing for them since they were kids here at home so I figured it was time. They are simple in design, neither one of our daughters is into fancy or real ornate stuff. I used Brusso stop hinges and they are finished with satin Arm-R-Seal. This is the first project using sepele and I really enjoyed working with it. I have another project after the first of the year and I now think I will be using sepele for that one also. The chatoyance is really something with sepele as you change the angle at which you view it from.
  3. 17 points
    Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  4. 17 points
    It has been one year to the day since I last was on this forum. I am sure there have been a lot of new members and things happen since then. I just thought I would put up a post to let everyone know where I've been and why I was absent for so long. Hopefully all the members I have known in the past are still here! One year ago today, I had an injury in the shop. I will spare you the details for now, but it ended up with me in the emergency room. I cut open my left thumb on the table saw, and required 12 stitches (6 inside and 6 outside). It scared the living hell out of me. The cut was in the pad of my left thumb, and did not severe any tendons, ligaments, or hit the bone. No surgery was required. I am a VERY safety conscious person, and doubly so in my shop. I have worked wood for 15 years without injury or incident, until this occurrence. It was, quite literally, 1 second of inattention and my thumb was cut open. I was out of the shop for 12 weeks as the thumb healed. My thumb has recovered, but I do have some nerve damage that affects the feeling along the scar line. The mental healing took much longer, and I feel now that I am ready to share my experience with you. After the incident, my wife was concerned about me and how this was affecting my outlook on my beloved craft. In the end, she bought me a Sawstop to help get me out of my funk and back to my passion. It's now in my shop, and I have been using it for 6 months. It's the 3 HP cabinet saw model, and its incredible. I'll post a review at a later date when I get back in the groove of posting again. In no way to I blame the table saw for my injury - it was 100% my own fault. Ironically, about 6 weeks after my injury I was contacted by a Woodworking magazine regarding a 2 page article I had written for them. I ended up getting my article published int the magazine (print), and have since written 4 more which will be published in 2019. The magazine is called "Canadian Woodworking and Home Improvement". It was a very proud moment for me, but was a little tarnished by the injury I had suffered. Regardless, it is nice to be back in "full swing" again. I'll be back to regular posting now, so catch me up on what you fellas have been up to! -pug
  5. 16 points
    The immediate challenge is to create the curved ends. The plan is to make dovetailed corners, round them on the outside and add a filler/filet to the inside corner, which will be hollowed to compliment the outer radius. Complicating this is the need to mitre the insides of the dovetailed ends, since this will permit the shape to flow better than butt ends. Interesting ... as I have never made mitred dovetails to date. This is going to be a steep but quick learning curve! I spent some time researching mitred dovetails. There is not much around. The only book I could find with directions was Ian Kirby's "The Complete Dovetail". I like Ian's work, but the writing here were not his best. There is a short video by Chris Schwarz (Google for it), which was helpful. There was also an article on the UKWorkshop forum (by Custard), which is a Pins-first method (I tend to saw Tails-first). There were one or two other articles to be found, of less assistance to someone like yours truly, who becomes easily spatially challenged. In the end I worked it out but, reflecting on the method that evolved, it does not look like those who came before. Perhaps it is a different way of doing it? I really do not know. Let me have your thoughts here. Anyway, I plan to show it for the education of those who want to learn a method. Beginning with a tail board that has been marked and sawn (to speed up the description). Note that there is no shoulder here (which is common on butt ended dovetails). The wood is Merbau, which is hard, hard, hard. 20mm thick, as per the panels on the table ... The aim is to saw all the tails. Forget about the mitre for now (... this is a departure from the methods I observed). To make the removal of waste easiest, undercut the baselines (shallow cuts to avoid losing vertical) ... Now fretsaw away the waste. Get as close to the baseline as you dare! My cuts are about 1mm ... This enables the minimum of waste removal. You can place the chisel immediately against the chisel wall and pare/chop down halfway ... With the waste removed, mark the mitre cuts at the sides - but do not cut them yet (this is another departure) ... Time now to transfer the marks to the pin board. First, here is an alternative to the "#140 trick" (the #140 trick involves creating a shallow rebate to securely connect the tail board to the pin board when transferring marks. This was popularised by Rob Cosman and Chris Schwarz, amongst others). My alternative is three layers of blue tape, which is peeled away afterwards. Lay three layers of blue tape over the baseline. No need to be careful ... Now use the cutting gauge (which marked the tails) to slice away the tape, leaving an edge butting against the baseline ... This is the fence. Here it is seen with the pin board, which has a layer of blue tape on the end ... The "fence" makes it easy to align the boards, while the blue tape on the pin board also acts as a non-slip .. When you trace the sockets (with a knife), the outlines look like this (great for old eyes!) ... Drop all the vertical lines, with the exception of the line on the outside at each side ... Remove the waste in the same way as done on the tail board (undercut the baseline, fretsaw and chisel) ... Mark out the mitre lines ... ... and drop the verticals on the reverse side... Now saw the mitre cuts and remove the waste ... Do this on the tail board as well - the reason it was left until now was that it would be difficult to transfer the outside tail if the mitre was sawn. Stay about 1mm from the mitre line. Do not saw to the line. This will be more accurately shaped with a chisel. For chiseling, use a mitre guide. This is just a 45 degree saw cut. I made a double-ended guide - to use on opposing sides .. Take it slowly, a smidgeon at a time. Finally ... the moment of truth arrives ... will she .. won't she ?? Looking promising as the top is pressed together with finger pressure. Then I wack it - the wood is uncompromising. The clamp is to prevent any cracking in such circumstances. Not too shabby. Mitres are tight ... Now about the rounded edge ... here is the secret weapon: After marking out, the waste is removed with a block plane, and then sanded smooth. Just lacking the inner filet ... Enough practice. Now for the real thing. A bit more of a challenge as the panels are 500mm wide. Regards from Perth Derek
  6. 16 points
    copied without permission because it's true:
  7. 15 points
    Nothing you write home about here, but if you make something and dont post pictures, did it really happen? The American flag was for my father, who is a Vietnam veteran. I bought the union, I wanted the perfection of the CNC. I was going to do the typical burned/stained home center pine, but realized I have piles of cherry and curly maple that bumped it up a notch. I didn't use my best maple, but there's still some curl in there. A very quick, easy project. The Ulu knife sets go to my in-laws. Nothing extraordinary here either, except since I have no lathe, I cut the bowls with a router in a jig. Messy, but it went pretty well. I'll attach photos of the jig when I switch to a computer.
  8. 14 points
    Just finished this barn for a friend's Grandson. Basic box is Baltic birch plywood with redwood "boards" glued to it. At least I think it is redwood. I salvaged it from my garage door jambs when I replaced them. Trim is maple and roof is a veneer strips on plywood, shellaced to darken the color. Friend is very happy. Animals are by owner. Freind says that she has had 3 people who want to buy one and one the wants to buy the plans. It was just too much work to be able charge a reasonble amount unless I could figure out a way to batch 3 together and avoid cutting the boards around the openings. Also, the roofs would have to be part of the box - too much work to make them as separate pieces. Plus I am out of redwood. I think I will just quietly move on to the next project.
  9. 14 points
    I wasn't certain where to post this so mods please move if needed. I took a ton of photos during this build but I certainly won't bore you with all those and I have a few videos but none in presentation form. The build is well documented and I may do a video compilation one day if I have time. I've mentioned this many times over the last couple of years and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  10. 13 points
    Not really fine woodworking but I needed to kick out five shop made gifts and with limited time I decided to make this cheese and cracker tray out of Woodsmith. First up was to breakdown some cherry boards. My chop saw is in the basement for that project so I used my plunge saw to do the work. Next up a quick jig to set up the TS to cut the coves for the tray handles I needed a 2" wide cove so I set the jig to 2" and then used blue tape to mark the front and the back of the blade where it enters/exist the cut Once I had that done I could set up the fences for both sides of the piece. I was having trouble figuring out how to get a clamp on the far end when I remembered Chestnut's tip from a few days ago handscrews worked great, thanks Drew!! Then set the blade to take about an 1/8" for the first few cuts and further on 1/6" as the cut gets wider Then its just push through flip push through rinse and repeat...forget about dust collection this makes a really big mess! ...but does a nice job fairly quickly, 5 sets Next I marked off for the 1/4" dowels that will pin the handles to the tray sides Then I drilled 1/4" holes through all the sides for all the trays. Once that was done they were ready to glue up Warning the glue up kinda sucks...made a mess of the first one getting glue in the cracker tray but after that I came up with a process that worked much better. I would dry fit one end then glue the other end and finally go back and glue the first. The tray sides and handles are cut at a 30 degree angle so you have to clamp from top to bottom to keep them aligned Next up I needed to make a bunch of 1/4" cherry dowel stock so after cutting some 3/8" square stock I got out my Elkhead tools TS dowel jig and set it up. Then I hand fed each piece in to make a small dowel I can chuck in a cordless drill Then I ran one through and gave it a test fit Once I had the fit I ran the rest through Next up was to drill the handles. I used the holes drilled in the sides for a guide and then made a wood depth stop Cut the dowels to length Glued them in I cleaned up the over hang with a sharp flush saw, so sharp I cut myself Then I cut the waste away at the TS to reveal the handle Once that was done I cleaned up the coves first at the TS then with sand paper on a 2" piece of conduit, cut a curve on the handle ends, and made some small cutting boards for the centers. After some edge finishing and final sanding they will be ready for finish and bows with two days to spare I also knocked out another lamp like the ones I did last year I'll post up some final shots after the finish is applied.
  11. 13 points
    It's DONE !!!! 9 pm on Friday night and I am exhausted ! I think I'm going to sleep late tomorrow.
  12. 13 points
    I was going to do this as a running Journal but i finished the table in 6 days. The only reason it took 6 days is because i had to wait for a new saw blade after my resaw king snapped so that added a day. I didn't get to my computer to process the pictures for another few days so it's all going in one big dump. It was time for a new coffee table. The one i had made previously just didn't fit any more and i have a very love hate relationship with it that focuses on the hate more than the love. SO every good project starts off with a design. Here is mine. Tables are easy for me so i had some rough dimensions and didn't really fallow any of them. I used scraps from the Morris chair build and made the coffee table to fit the dimensions of the scraps. Cut the legs from 8/4 cherry and all other parts came from 5/4 cherry. I milled up the side pieces first. Below is the legs side parts and long stretchers on my material cart for transportation around the shop. Cut the tapers on the legs with the bandsaw. They taper from 2" to 1-5/8" over 16" Next was to layout the mortises for the slats on the end. I didn't want to do the slats the same way as on the Morris chair because that's too much work so i figured i'd just do a standard M&T cutting the mortise with the domino and the tenon on the table saw. I cut a practice mortise to get the width right. For the wider slat i did 3 wide plunges overlapping significantly to get the right tenon size. I took a piece of scrap and did a test fit just to make sure everything worked. Then it was off to the races resawing cutting tenons and test fitting. I had the perfect size of curly cherry left over from my TV stand build that I'd been holing on to for a while. This was the perfect spot to use it. Tenon off the table saw. Cleaned up. Love that 140 skew. For small shoulders like this a shoulder plain would be a pain. Cut shoulder on the table saw. I cut the tenon to fit inside mortise without having to round the corners. I don't see the point in including that extra material the glue connection is all end grain so it doesn't really give any strength but takes a long @($&@ time. Test fit There was an extra finesse step before glueup. Everything has been been finished prepped before glue up. I was somewhat careful with glue so that i didn't get much squeeze out and really didn't have much to clean up after. Glued the rail and stretcher in. 5/4 Cherry for the top. Got some nice boards that were just under 8". Man it's nice having an 8" jointer. Transport cart to the planer. For edge jointing i always mark the face that goes against the fence for the jointed edge. Some boards i have to run them different directions so the face is not always the same. When i go to do the glue up i make sure that the face that was against the fence alternates across the glue joint. This way any out of square for the jointer fence is negated. I used some dominos for alignment during glue up. After the top was glued i cut it to size with the track saw and ran an under bevel all the way around with the track saw. Then came some solid time with the smoothing plane to make the top smooth. I never touched the top after this with sand paper except to sand the end grain ends. The smoother doesn't leave a finish ready surface on end grain. Now it's just finish. And a topless picture. And finished and in place pictures. The morrise chair and TV stand are in the background. I have in my future some side tables that will match the style but that's in the future a ways.
  13. 12 points
    This request from Megan has been on the table a long time. The only reason that it has been put off as long as it has is because other furniture was determined to be more important. Now that all the more important functional furniture is completed I'm getting started on this project. I plan to add quite a few new firsts to my arsenal. Notably is going to be hand cut dovetails, second is home swan veneer and applying said veneer. The final sort of fist is going to be a very complicated final case glue up. The design will have 2 sides a center divider and 6 or 8 horizontal dividers depending on how you look at it. So yeah this one is going to be fun. I did some other sketches to arrive at my plans but they have changed to make the dresser taller as requested and to add some some additional space. Below are my shop plans they are very sophisticated. My cultist is probably more detailed but i only use that to buy lumber and those dimensions usually change once i get to cutting. It always seems blasphemous to cut the edges off slabs but i'm not a slab fan and this walnut was chainsaw milled and air dried so it has all the awesome colors. This is one place i think commercial walnut has it wrong. The steaming gets them more yield but it ruins the color. I'd pay more for unsteamed walnut. Instead i paid less and got it from Cremona in slab form. I always save the shims from cutting tapes on legs and such they always seem to find a use. All of the doors i install are shimmed with cherry or walnut. I also use them to stabilize wood so that cuts don't get scary. Got those ugly bark edges cut off. Sawed 5 panels accidentally. I meant to get 4 but i guess i minimized losses and got 5 1/4" panels out of a 1.75" thick board. Pre finished the panels so they are ready for the side assembly glue up. The color and depth the air dried walnut has doesn't quite come through in the picture. I also am going to do a slip match instead of book match. Why, because there were a couple gouges and defects i could hide this way and I liked it. Milled the leg and frame material the usual ways. Cut to length and laid out joinery for the domino. Sides as you can see will be frame and panel construction. This is the same or similar style to other furniture in the bedroom. I used the router table to route the groove in the pieces. This all takes a lot of organization. I Made sure that i only used white pencil on the show face and used regular pencil on the back side. This helped me avoid mistakes beings that the whole assembly isn't centered anywhere. I have the panels inset futher back than center to add some depth and the back side of the side needs to be flush for the drawers. After all the joinery was cut it is time to do the pre-finishing. I went through all the grits of my #4. Finish prep took no time at all, best of all there was no dust everything is perfectly flat and I didn't need hearing protection. The other side benefit is the amount of money saved on not having to buy sand paper other than 180 grit has paid for this guy and then some. Edges were softened with a slight chamfer using a block plane. I use the bench and try and cut on the same spot of the iron to make sure that all the angles are similar. They don't need to be close as none of them are going to meet at a corner. I used this to add a slight detail as well to the vertical divider that might be more visible in later pictures. Keeping everything organized is key the white part descriptions were transferred from the front to the back before finish prep. This records the part which side its for and it's orientation as well as center marks. Because this is all on the inside i will leave it for someone to find years down the road. Any time i can leave my notes on hidden surfaces i do. On pieces that i do as gifts i generally hide my plan sheets somewhere inside as well to be found later.
  14. 12 points
    Tis the season for me to start cutting wood, both for the woodstove (next year's stash) and for my woodworking habit. I am very fortunate to have access to some very nice trees. This black walnut was on my property, it's the tree in the center of the photo with a nice branchless trunk. This should give me some primo logs. I saw it the first time I looked at the property in 1998 with a realtor. I harvested one very similar to this 2 years ago and it's time to for this one to be repurposed; Dropped it with no problem, as this is always something that you do with the upmost care. Spanky, take note that I dropped it just right so i didn't break the wood at the crotch; And here is the money shot, gorgeous color, a centered pith, no terrible cracking. The sapwood is a little thicker than I was hoping but I'll still take it; Width is about 26" wide, plenty big for my purposes; I applied anchorseal, 2 coats, left the rest of the tree whole for now. Did clean up the small branches. I should be able to get three 8' logs below the crotch, I'll then salvage/mill a few peckerpoles and the crotch piece. This log is too nice, I think I will hire an onsite bandsaw mill to do this as my chainsaw mill's kerf will eat up too much of this primo wood. I'll update this thread as I move forward with the harvesting of this nice tree. Thanks for looking
  15. 12 points
    Not much in the way of individual gifts but, the wife and I treated ourselves to this this year.
  16. 12 points
  17. 12 points
    I don't want to put people to sleep with an endless tour but, here's a few shots of the shop. This is a commercial cabinet that I'm sure I posted about retrofitting to make it more usable for me. The full depth pullouts keep me from losing stuff in this 24" deep beast. Here's a shot of the main work area. Several machines are mobile and move into this space as needed and move back out when assembly or finishing begin. Here's a shot back toward the position that the previous shot was taken from. The wall mounted tool cabinet is actually the right wing of my plane till/tool cabinet but, I never seem to get annoyed enough to re-work the opposite wall to make it fit where it was intended to go which is over on that wall. From the front left you can see my router table and tablesaw area. This was sized to allow me to work with a 60" sq. sheet of BB ply. The garage door opens for longer infeed on those rare occasions it is required. Looking over the tablesaw from the operator's position you see the workbench. Currently has some items on it (that seem to have been there forever) which are over my lift-limit for a few more months. I have (probably too many) more pics if there is anything that anyone is curious about. It is a two car garage with an additional 10 feet of depth where a fourth bedroom option was not taken on the house by the original owners; I thank them every time I am in the shop.
  18. 11 points
    I hate to pick the best of the gifts from family and friends but this was special to me. Hand made by my son in my shop with me assisting, not knowing what it would be. I sold my company 3 years ago and the new owner changed the name slightly. My son somehow obtained a photo of the original sign that was on the building for years and recreated it in a smaller size. As I am still working there, it will share a space on my office wall. When I do decide to retire, it will become a permanent fixture in my shop. Handmade gifts are always cool.
  19. 11 points
    I just wanted to wish you all Merry Christmas ! And thank you all for the helpful information that you all shared.Throughout this past year And Have a Happy And Healthy New Year
  20. 11 points
    This project is for my daughter. It will live in a small octagonal alcove in her new house. Table is 30" tall and26" in "diameter". First the base. I, unfortunatley, did not take progress pics of the base. These pics are after 2 costs of ARS. Center post is 8 sided with a full length shallow dado on 4 sides and the legs on the other 4 sides. Legs and top supports are attached to post with stopped sliding dovetails. Dovetails were done on the router. Duting practice cuts I learned that there is precious little difference between too tigh and too loose. These dovetail slide in by hand with a little effort and then a couple ot gentle taps to seat them at the end of the dovetail. No glue. The curved legs were cut from an mdf pattern using bandsaw and then pattern bit on the router. Each leg has a grain reversal so I cut them long to start with to avoid chip out when cutting the dados in the curved legs with dado bit on the router. Then cut the round ends. The top is veneerd MDF with a walnut frame (with ebony stripe). Show side veneer is brazilian rosewood. Back side is red birch. I started with a 22 pack of the Brazilian Rosewood. Spent much time with mirrors trying to decide what part of the veneer pieces to use. Cutting the first cut on each piece. I used the grain on the first piece to located my cut on the second pieice, etc. Here you can see piece #14 alyed on top of what will be piece #15. Cutting the second cut on each piece. I use a piece of plexiglass with a strip of tape that is 4 pieces of tape thick to act as a stop. This keeps that angles of all the pieces the same. The tape stop is on the underside of the plexiglass and against the stop. The 2 strips of brown that you see are adhesive backed sand paper to keep the piece from sliding during cutting. Checking the metching grain as I work through the pieces...Notice the order of the numbers. Even one direction and odd the other. If I lyaed them out 1,2,3.... in one direction, Iwould end up with #1 next to #16 and, since the grain pattern moves just a ltttle from piece to piece, I would not have a grain match from 1 to 16. Show side ready for the vaccum bag. Back side ready for the vacuum bag. I have to come clean and adimit that first table top, that you see here, failed in the vacuum bag. I used a bottom caul under the piece and only a piece of screening top of it. While this worked in the past on smaller pieces like boxes and saves having to cut a top caul to fit my workpiece. But this veneer piece was 22" across and It did not work here. As I watched the bag start to apply presure to the veneer, the outside edge (circumference) of the veneer developed a slight wave. That is to say that not alll of the circumference contacted that MDF at the same time. as the pressure increaed the venner pinched and crinkled in 2 places. Too late - piece ruined. After much !!**&^%#, I examined the veneer that I had left and found that I could get another set of 16 pieces from them. This time I took every precuation I could. I flattened each piece with and iron (they were pretty flat to begin with. I kept weight on the pieces after cutting them. I assembled just 2 at a time and pressed them while they were witing to be joined to the next 2 pieces and I used a top caul in the vaccum bag. No problems. Lesson learned. Did some layout work with a compass and straight edge find the corners of the final octagon and cut the veneer to shape by clamping it of my cross cut sled and cutting - x8. I cut rabbets in the 8 pieces that would be the frame for the top and glued 1/4" x 1/8" pieces of ebony (pen blanks from Woodcraft) into the frame pieces. I used the jig that I built ( and posted) to cut the miters for the 8 corners. This jig allows me to set up the meter cut for each corners individually using the w ork piece as the pattern. Why? Because The octogon is not absolutely perfect. General jig pic Place pice on jig with corner on kerf and clamp in place Place removeable fences agains pieces and clamp in place Remove the work pice and cut right and left miters. Pretty good fit..... Start with one piece and work you way around. Getting the length of each piece is critical. So you have to cut the miters for one corner and not change the jig stetting until after those pieces are glued in place and you know you won't have to trim with of those miters. Then set the jig and move on to the next corner. The little caul is used to press the pieces tight to the table for perfect thickness alignment. I was nervouse about gluing to the edge of the mdf, so I precoated the mdf with glue and let it dry to the touch. I cut plines into the frame pieces for strength and alignment. I intentionalliy left the frame proud of the veneer top so palning was required. Planed but not sanded.... Sanded but not finshed....( A power sander on veneer makes me pucker) Finishing now in progress......more later.
  21. 11 points
    Finished! I applied 6 coats of a wiping poly (minwax wipe on poly) over 4 days last week. For some of the first coats i was able to get 2 in 4 hours apart. For the last 2 i let them cure for 24 hours. I sanded between each coat except the 1st and 2nd because they were done too close together to be able to sand. Finished the last coat with a buff with 2,000 grit to remove the final nubs and make the finish buttery smooth feeling. Brought everything upstairs for assembly figured i'd step through how well it can be disassembled. All the parts. I looked at it and immideatly though about how i manufactured my own IKEA table assembly required.... . The stretcher goes through the legs and secures with wedges. Hammer required. It was at the point where i had both legs togehter and was putting the top on that i found a weak point in my design. I didn't make the material outside the wedges large enough and i ended up splitting an end open. No big deal i have some 3/16th brass rod. I drilled a hole 15/16ths of the way though and sent the brass rod home with some superglue so it doens't fall out. Set the table on top and send the screws home through the legs and table is together. So in reality this is FAR easier than anything IKEA ever would sell you. Not sure why they can't get this stuff right..... Here are some glamor shots. Now i just have to wait 7 days to see how it functions in use. So my final thoughts on the extensions. I Don't feel the most confidant in their strength. I'd never put my full weight on them but as far as sitting at the table and leaning on them fully loaded with food they will be more than enough. With out the extensions everything is incredibly strong. I put my full weight on every edge and never got so much as a creak. The table will tip over width wise with probably 150 lbs of force down but that's more than my parents table growing up so no issues there. There is no racking in the assembly i could grab and end and pull the table around. The feet dug into the carpet so pushing doesn't work.
  22. 11 points
    About a year ago Fine Woodworking Mag had an article on a Clark Kellogg piece that stuck in my mind. I owe the LOML a small cabinet for displaying some personal items. I am drawing heavily from Clark's design in FWW and on his site. This is my take. I will be making it out of some tiger maple that I think I shared earlier. It has been waiting around to turn into something. Like Clark, I start with the curved door. Per his recommendation it is easier to adjust the curve of the carcass than to fit the door to a given curve. Makes sense to me, I'm going for it. A curved bottom plane makes quick work of the small door panel. A more-flexible-than-most Veritas card scraper cleans things up nicely. The other side is convex so a No4 sized plane takes care of that. And here's the rough blank for the door. This is just a demo of how something like a known thickness gift card scrap can augment your setup blocks. The extra small increment centered my mortises on my layout lines for the Domino. The dividers in the case are wedge shaped to give me the look I am after. The same bench plane as before takes care of this. The Incra rule is handy for this sort of layout. I must confess that I had questioned the value of a Domino as I have had it for some time but, never found it quite the right tool for the job. It really shows its worth in production style mortising. The layout lines on the dividers are used for the layout on the top and bottom. Part of the layout work with the setup blocks was the reference line for the marked divider to be positioned. I just use the same marks for plunging the mating mortises for these slip tenons. And here's a dry fit. There are a lot of ways to do knife hinges, here's mine. I apologize for being picture heavy. I hope it helps some folks. I use the washer to create an offest from the side where the hinge will mount. I do this to achieve an equal reveal all around the door. These Brusso hinges do not want to give up their washers so . . . I use another piece of gift card; perfect fit. The light blue line you can sort of see is the front curve of the door panel. The hole in the hinge centers on this line. A steel rule will help me square the hinge leaf with the carcass and provide a consistent position. Here's the gift card scrap standing in for the washer. An there's your spot. I use a marking knife to mark the position so I can return after the next step. My fingers show where I will scribe along the front and at the square end. Here I have marked it in pencil to make it easier to see in the pics. I stick the leaves on double stick tape. Trim to fit. Using a knife in the previously made cut as a stop I position the leaf and press it down to stick. Now, with the tape giving me super-human strength, I can mark around the hinge easily. And it's like so. I'm going to hog out (can you way "hog-out" when it is only about a cc of material?) the waste with a Dremel and clean it up with a chisel. I zero the bit and use the leaf to set the final depth of cut. And there you go. When you press these in to check the fit you can use the other leaf to lever it back out. I use the tape trick again for the door half of the hinges. I use something flat to help me set the hinge flush with the door edge. The other axis is set by the edge of the door dividing the hinge pin hole in half. I use a wheel gauge to cut the fibers where the mortise will extend past the face and edge of the door panel for a clean cut. The door is narrow so I add some scrap for support as well as a backer function. And it comes out like so. I use Grandpa's egg beater drill for delicate work like this. Dry fit the case yet again with the carcass side of the knife hinges attached (I just use one screw for now). Place the other half of the hinges on the pins and slide the door on. Again I attach the door with just one screw top and bottom for now. Open Sesame! I will add more as I go. I am only able to hit this project off an on for a while but, I will try not to drag it out too long ;-)
  23. 11 points
    I use a Rubbermaid cart to move my parts around the shop. I decided it would be nice and also convenient to have a permanent first layer of stickes on the cart. No earth shattering high end wood working here, I just took an old piece of ply, dado some slots in it and glued in some strips and then screwed that to the top of the cart.
  24. 11 points
    My latest turning. From this very square block of Kosso (a.k.a African Rosewood), to this Sorry that last picture is out of focus, but I think that is the best view.
  25. 10 points
    First, my apologies for those who actually carve and sharpen their tools more normally Even those of us who would never consider ourselves wood carvers may use a gouge now and again. I made this helper for my Worksharp years ago out of a random scrap of wood. It gives me a really nice edge that I hone a bit more before cutting wood like buttah. However, there was always this little divot that existed in the original piece of scrap that left an irregularity. It obviously really bothered me since it took me years to carve out (pun intended) about 20 minutes to make another one. Do yourself a favor, mill your blank square and true. Your threaded knob of choice will determine the placement of the tool's through hole somewhat. For threading hardwood for a 1/4 x 20 thread I drill a 13/64" hole but, whatever works for you. Placement of the through hole is easy as I can use the old jig to position the fence. I smile every time I use this crude handle that my grandfather made back who-knows-when. You've seen me use this trick before. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap and clamp it to your sander in an appropriate spot for the radius you are after. I have roughed out the curve at the bandsaw. I just use the drill bit as a pivot. Slip the blank over the drill, turn on the sander, rotate the blank 180 degrees and presto. Now I should be good for the next few years . . . and no divot The through hole is made to just fit your tool. Depending on the sweep (this is a #9) you can modify the outer curve. For the #9 I use the exact radius from the pivot hole. A greater or lesser arc would be used for others.