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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/24/2018 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    I wasn't certain where to post this so mods please move if needed. I took a ton of photos during this build but I certainly won't bore you with all those and I have a few videos but none in presentation form. The build is well documented and I may do a video compilation one day if I have time. I've mentioned this many times over the last couple of years and it's finally to a point where I can post photos. Over the last 30 years or so I have replaced tops, backs, done fret jobs, inlay, glued braces and lining, refinished, made bridges, saddles, and nuts, replaced tuners, and all kinds of repairs, etc. but this is the first guitar I've built from scratch. I cut all the wood for this including resawing the back/sides/top, cutting the binding and bracing from lumber or billets, etc. Along the way I've designed and built my own modular cantilever side bending fixture that will accommodate sizes from Jumbo down to 0, possibly smaller like a Ukulele. I'll post photos of the side bending fixture later and also built all the forms, fixtures, templates, and jigs for the build. I started the build a couple of years ago just working an hour in the evening, sometimes two, and some on weekends, but I put it aside and didn't touch it for about 8 months. I'll tell you ahead of time that it sounds good, is bright, has great sustain, and plays very easily with good action. But it may be a while before I make a video of it being played. Back and sides - Honduras Mahogany Top and bracing - Sitka Spruce Neck - African Mahogany with Maple and Honduras Mahogany center pieces Headstock, rosette, arm bevel, heel cap, and tail wedge - Walnut burl Headstock inlay - Zebrawood Fingerboard, bridge - East Indian Rosewood Binding, purfling - Zebrawood and Maple Sound port lining - Macassar Ebony Solid lining - Honduras Mahogany Side braces - Honduras Mahogany Finish - Shellac (French polish), measured just over 1 mil at the bridge The neck is bolted on and I devised a way for it to be completely removable. It can go from tuned to pitch to neck off in about 5 minutes. In the week that the guitar has been tuned to pitch it is holding its tuning as good as my other guitars. The intonation still needs some minor tweaking but I'll play it a while before working on it again. Assuming I like it enough to play in church I'll install a K&K Pure Mini pickup. If I decide to just play it at home and with friends I'll save the pickup for a future guitar. In the meantime, here are a few photos of the build and some of the finished guitar. Back bracing with Padauk glue strip - Top bracing - Gluing the back in place - Finished guitar. I didn't want a super high gloss finish but rather decided to do an old world vintage patina. Nothing against the super high gloss finishes but I have 5 guitars with high gloss finish and wanted this one to be different. Now that I've done it this way I like it even better than I thought I would. So feel free to comment, ask questions, critique. I have about 1,500 photos of the build and good documentation but these few photos tell the story just fine, I think, so I'll spare you the copious extras. Enjoy! David
  2. 7 points
    My new apprentice began today. First thing I taught him was the Mike Pekovich blue tape trick for laying out mortises (which works great by the way). Not sure if Mike will appreciate my grandson’s interpretation, but he’s in the shop. He says it’s an airplane. Fine by me. He seems to really enjoy making things and I’m going to encourage that every time I get the opportunity. At the bench, working out some design issues. He’s just like grandpa, has a running conversation with himself in the shop. After three coats of Summer allergies snot, it’s ready to go. Pass your love of craft on. The next Krenov may be lurking at your bench.
  3. 5 points
    Built this while you were camping.....couldn’t resist! Good to see you back on the build
  4. 2 points
    OK, I think we can officially declare me totally nuts or at best a monomaniac with OCD. I've now gotten to 50,000 unique pics of woods on the wood ID site. About half these are ones I took and the rest lifted off of the Internet. This doesn't even count the 1000+ complex images and graphics I did for the glossary and the 4,000 pics I took for the anatomy pages or any of the ones done for the various articles on the site. http://www.hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/
  5. 2 points
    To be honest I wondered about how the finish and paint would look when completed. Your bookcase looks very nice. Good work.
  6. 2 points
    All finished up ... learned quite a bit on this one. Pretty happy overall but still chugging along.
  7. 1 point
    Super, super cool David. Well done!
  8. 1 point
    I hope the epoxy cures quicker than it took you to start the dog hole strip. Looking forward to your progress Matt!
  9. 1 point
    Really nice. Pretty amazing how much you can pick up in a short period of time with a good instructor!
  10. 1 point
    My kids have gotten into board games a lot over the past few months. The kitchen table doesn't work all the time for playing because if games run into supper time there's a lot of drama with getting the table cleaned off. The floor is uncomfortable for playing so I wanted a big coffee table that could handle a good sized board game. I'm already done with this so I'll post the finished version first. Its made mostly out of maple I found for cheap ($1.50 bf) at habitat for humanity. The panels and top ended up being maple plywood. I'm not great at taking progress pics so forgive the huge gaps in progress. I only rough sketched the design before I got started which will probably seem obvious in the end. Here's the material I started with after a rough cutting some of it down. Trying to get a sense of scale to figure out how tall and wide it should be Laying out a drawer front. Drawers and sides were put together with tongue and groove. The side panels are mortise and tenon into the legs. Side panel glue up: This was my first time working with maple and first time doing a breadboard top. The maple is really unforgiving for showing gaps in any of the joinery because it is so light. I intended to peg the breadboards only through the bottom but messed up and ended up drilling one hole all the way through the breadboard. So I tried to patch it with a plug but my plug cutters are crap and they don't even match what size they are supposed to be. So then I ended up routing out for a dutchman patch, but even at my best I couldn't get the lines around the patch to be as small as I wanted. Damn maple, why you gotta be like that! I thought maybe after some finish went on it would look better but it looked worse. Finally I gave up on it and made a second top with a walnut border around it to hide any deficiencies in the joint between the top and border. I'll repurpose this patched top for an outdoor table or something (after painting it). Here's a view of how the interior went together. A piece of 1/4 ply and a 2x4 were added to mount the drawer slides on Heres a picture of what could have been. I think this top's design is much better than what I ended up with. It fits the look of the rest of it better and the thickness is a better proportion than the final version too. Oh well. Live and learn. Final version
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    And we appreciate your obsession!!!
  13. 1 point
    Over the years I have tried many push blocks for the TS, jointer, router most have fallen short and until last week my favorite was the gripper from micro jig. At Marc Adams last week they had these shop made push blocks and they were simply awesome So I started asking questions and was advised they used rubber from a tile float. I was determined to make a couple of these, so yesterday I went to work. First I found some cheap floats at Menards $4.99 each Then I pealed the pad off slowly using a putty knife Next up I made a quick template from hardboard and cut some handle blanks from some scrap 1" thick white oak I had For the base I used BB ply and dadoed a slot for the handle Then I took a router with a cove bit and routed some finger groves in the handles. After using a trim router to break the edges I glued the handles to the bases Then I used contact cement to glue the rubber to the handle assembly And used my vise to clamp them together and for about the same price as one gripper and some misc supplies from around the shop I had replicated what is now my favorite push block. I made four, two for the table saw and two for the jointer/ router which in my shop are real close.
  14. 1 point
    Bravo ! Signed & dated ?
  15. 1 point
    About wide drawers & slides remember to check the installation instructions closely. Most slides will have a recommended maximum width for use of a particular slide. I wouldn't consider it cast in stone and often push the limits a little. But as you approach or exceed that width you need to pay closer attention to the drawer & case being perfectly parallel and installed very accurately. As soon as a drawer is wider than it is deep they don't behave well. Most slides come in heavy duty versions although they do cost more and might not be stocked locally. KV 8500 or KV 8505 slides are built for lateral filing cabinets. I know they make heavy duty concealed slides too but the brands and numbers seem to change every time I need some. Self closing slides are sensitive to imperfect installation. If the case is slightly out of square the slides need to be shimmed to be perfectly parallel. Exactly 90 degrees to the front face and both sides of the case and drawer members mounted very accurately. Lots of slides have a specific set back from the front edge. Get this wrong and the drawer will either close inconsistently or crookedly. Concealed slides need the mounting holes , locking devices and knotches to be in very exact locations. Cheaper slides are usually much harder to install & adjust. KV and Blum slides are well worth the prices they demand, but shop around, some sources charge retail and better trade prices aren't that hard to locate. Odd lengths may come with case quantity requirements to get a decent price. No dealer wants to have a partial box of an odd length sit on the shelf for years, if you only need a few they will cost more. Building a test/prototype drawer & case to practice installing slides you aren't familiar with is a good idea. I've learned that installing slides in an existing cabinet should always be priced by the hour. One may go quickly and the next take 5-10 times longer. I use plastic laminate (Formica) sample chips to shim slide installation . Ask for old out of date sample chains, dealers, decorators, architects and cabinet shops are good places to ask for them. They already have a hole in them and cut with tin snips easily. I learned most of this the hard way , just trying to save you a lot of frustration.
  16. 1 point
    I finally got some time yesterday to get some work done on the bench. Started milling up the doghole strip and front laminate. Had to fill some small knots with epoxy and currently waiting for that to cure.
  17. 1 point
    Very nice! Paint?? all I see is the beautiful piece of wood on the top
  18. 1 point
    Center drawers are 39.5" wide. For now, it will sit on the carpet. When the time comes to replace the flooring, I'll pull this unit out and then reinstall after. I will remove the floor molding for the installation.
  19. 1 point
    That came out real nice.
  20. 1 point
    Turned out nice! Good job!
  21. 1 point
    That’s bigger than most of the women at Walmart
  22. 1 point
    I prefer Fusion 360 for almost anything woodworking related. I only use sketchup when I need a cut list when using sheet goods. Fusion is far more powerful and user friendly once you get the hang of it.
  23. 1 point
    I have some thoughts, you need some serious help, probably from a whole team of head doctors Really Derek this piece makes my head spin, in a good way, seeing what you can do is an inspiration to all of us here on the forum. the attention to detail, the way you explain every step is inspiring and the work is at a level that i think is at the top of the woodworking community. thanks for this great ride.
  24. 1 point
    I'm thinking road trip!! if the estate would go for it, fly out, rent a U-Haul and drive the stuff back. Like Steve said thats a nice bunch of tools that you are going to use in the future and the expense would be great to replace the collection, plus they were an old friends tools and he wanted you to have them. just my 2 cents worth.
  25. 1 point
    Tis better to beg for forgiveness than to receive permission ! (Said the twice divorced man)