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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/24/18 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Just keep sanding... I did manage to hook up the shop vac. What a difference in airborne dust. I still use the respirator, though. Everything is sanded to 120. Finished dry fitting the parts other yhan the panels tonight. Sand to 180, cut the panels, glue up, and finish. There are some small gaps, but they won't be noticeable in use. As stated, these are my first M&T joints. If I try to fix, I risk more than just living with what I have.
  2. 3 points
    Best gifts, as we all knew, should be done by our hands!
  3. 2 points
    It's striper season here in the Northeast and fishing is on my schedule for the next month. Woodworking time will be cut into. What time I do spend out there will be on Christmas gifts. Ok, lets get one thing straight, you can never have too much lumber, that storage shed should be good to handle more.
  4. 2 points
    Oh it's a peach ... well ain't that peachy.
  5. 1 point
    Curly Hard Maple.......I need a 1,000 bdft of this.
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    So another little project that's been on the list to get done between projects. All of these little projects I've been working on have sort of been at the same time. This one was fun but challenging in a new way. It didn't really work out perfectly but for what it is that doesn't really matter the end result is exactly what was desired. The desire was to have one of those modern coat racks that when not in use just looks like a piece of wall art. When needed the slats tip forward and you can hang a coat on it. I just picked up some of that reclaimed Bocote and figured this would make a perfect use for a board of it. Getting started was easy rip boards to width cut to random lengths and then layout in a pattern. To make the coat hooks work the bottom of the hook will wedge against the backer board that gets mounted to the wall. This meant that each hook had to have it's bottom at the same level. So i got an idea of that and then drew a line for where the brass rod would go. Next was to use a fence and stop at the drill press to make sure that all the holes for the hooks were in the same place. The other slats locations were less important so they were just eyeballed but still used the fence. After that i grabbed a piece of cherry to mount everything to and cut a 45 in it to be able to mount this to the wall french cleat style. I probably could have just used screws through the backer board but that seemed like it would make mounting thins more tricky. After everything was mounted it was apparent that there needed to be some sort of system to keep the hooks from just tipping out on their own. so i channeled my inner Steve and used magnets. Thanks Steve it's from your recommendation to always have magnets around that i thought about this and was able to get it done right away. I used a forstner bit to put a hole for the magnet to be close to the surface and then mounted a washer to the back of the hooks. It worked perfectly. I put quite a few coats of shellac on the bocote. As i was working with it i'd use super glue to hold things in place to get mounting positions down right. Dab of super glue spritz of applicator and it beats clamps. If the bond was good enough i just left it. turns out Bocote is a bit too oily for super glue and all of those connections ended up failing. The super glue did it's job just long enough for the regular wood glue to do it's work though and that stuff was NOT coming off. Final coat of finis was a good coat of wiping poly and hang it on the wall. So yeah reclaimed wood projects don't always have to be bad.
  8. 1 point
    I spend about 2 hours a night and a good 20 hours on the weekend. I don't really watch TV so this is my entertainment. Also i was in hot water for spending so much time building the shed the list of furniture needed to be addressed. Soon it's going to be crunch time for Christmas presents as well. I will buy some wood from ya. My problem currently is i just have too much at the moment I probably have 600 BF of cherry between my shed and my shop. But there is a dining room table in the near future that will be 100% cherry.
  9. 1 point
    I think Chestnut and Bmac are running neck and neck on making stuff. I would like to sell them lumber.
  10. 1 point
    I had a Jet 1014 midi that I now need to replace. It's a solid little lathe that can be tucked away easily. But I'm now looking to go bigger- I want at least a 12 x 30 for myself. If I were going midi again though, I'd definitely look at another Jet or Delta. As to the rest, I did this in another thread- here is my pen-making shopping list: Well then, let me compile a small list for you! https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-9018-Keyed-Chuck-Spindle/dp/B01BHJF4TY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1513185064&sr=8-3&keywords=lathe+drill+chuck+mt2 https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-Products-PKMSTS2-Mandrel/dp/B004CVJC4S/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1513185112&sr=1-1&keywords=mandrel+saver https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Woodturning-Pen-Mandrel-Morse/dp/B00B014KOA/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1513185126&sr=1-2&keywords=pen+mandrel http://www.rockler.com/carbide-pen-turning-tool-3-piece-set https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-CSC3000C-Barracuda-System/dp/B000KIACTG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1513198501&sr=1-1&keywords=PSI+Barracuda+2 https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Mesh-Sanding-Pads-2x2/dp/B01GQDHIEA/ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1513198558&sr=1-8&keywords=micro+mesh+sanding+pads This is what I use. In addition I have an HSS roughing gouge and skew chisel. I use a friction polish topped with wax for finishing, but a lot of guys swear by CA glue finish. Happy Turning!!!
  11. 1 point
    Dang Chestnut, you've been cranking stuff out lately. How much time a week are you spending in the shop? I'm dealing with car issues so nothing fun going on here.
  12. 1 point
    I did. Upon closer inspection, it looks like someone had bought it before me. They tried to install the iron bevel up, and use it before properly tuning it. The rounded end of the iron has a couple marks like they really hammered it in there. I tried the other 2 methods mentioned above and no luck. I am considering just returning it and maybe get a different one at a later time. I will make sure to let them know about the problem though to so no one else has the same problem as me.
  13. 1 point
    I had a chainsaw to kick back and twist in my hands running wide open. I couldn’t hold the saw and couldn’t let off the throttle. I was thinking boy this will hurt and be bloody. It cut my coat, shirt, and tee shirt on my left shoulder. I was lucky I didn’t need to see a Doctor that time. If a big timber saw kicks back running wide open you can’t hold it. I had 38 staples in my left leg one time. A chainsaw chain will make a wide cut forsure.
  14. 1 point
    For gluing, applying dye to pen blanks, etc., I get 100 cheap paint brushes from Oriental Trading for about $5-6.
  15. 1 point
    1. I don't see the need to glue the area where the sink will be cut out. 2. Those cheap acid brushes work great. Sometimes trimming a little length off makes them better. 3a. Definitely spread a generous layer of epoxy on the biscuit & in the slot as well as the face of the miter cut. 3b. Just spread the epoxy on all surfaces to be joined. 3c. My understanding of the telegraph issue is that it happens when the biscuits swell from the moisture in the glue. The slab is then sanded when said biscuit are in a swollen state. Then weeks later, when all the moisture evaporates, the biscuits shrink back down leaving a depression. Epoxy has no water in it so it doesn't cause this problem. The 2 counters I did with miter joints & biscuits did not have any telegraphing. You are waaayyy overthinking the biscuit placement issue. Just line up the 2 slabs just as they will be glued & put a pencil mark across both sides of the joint where there will be a biscuit. Just make sure the slots are well clear of the sink cutout & remember the slot is longer than the biscuit. Trust me, it sucks to have a biscuit slot showing when you trim a board.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    A good article discussing planes based on the Stanley numbering: http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/plane-and-simple/868