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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    If you get a tablesaw and will be cutting quantity's of small parts a Grr-ripper push block is a very wise investment. I make display shelves for a plumbing company 100 at a time and I wouldn't cut that many small parts without one. Baltic Birch plywood is quality stuff, probably not available at a home center but worth tracking down. Dye is the best way to color wood purple. https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/TransTint---Purple-2-oz.html Grr-ripper https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_brand_microjig.htm
  2. 3 points
    After some more investigation I’ll have to agree with Tom. It’s most likely neglect. That tote is hand made and NOT well made. You can kind of see the offset hole in the top of the tote. The guy was a slob too there was paint all over that thing. Other than that the plane is solid (no cracks or pitting. I’m glad that I only paid $15 for it. I’m going to strip it and do a full restoration and give it to my buddy who has been looking for a jointer plane. I’ll post some pics as I go if you guys would like. Ive never used a corrugated plane so I can’t speak to that. I just know that collectors don’t value them as high as the smooth soles. Thanks for weighing in guys. Here red are some pics of some other things I like to do. Some planes I’ve restored. Some woodworking I’ve done. And reconditioning electric motors. also a craftsman grinding wheel.
  3. 2 points
    I started woodworking as a child using my dad's tools. I bought my first tablesaw when I was 15 from Sears 45 years ago, it was inexpensive. I wore it out in just a few years. I replaced it with a used contractors saw that was belt drive and had a cast iron top. That saw is in my step fathers shop today & still running. I know you aren't hearing what you want but trust me buy one decent tool and save up for the next. If you ask which of the inexpensive tablesaws are worth having you will get honest opinions. The Ridgid tablesaws get fairly good reviews. The Dewalt planers are pretty good. If you go with the bottom end low quality machines the cut quality will suffer and that makes it harder to learn. It's a vicious circle. Good luck !
  4. 2 points
    Nothing wrong with starting with a low end table saw and upgrading later. I started with s foldable Ridgid saw from Home Depot. I was able to do some good work with it and the fodl it up and move it out of the way. That would be #1 on my list. With boxes in mine, #2 is a router. # 3 would be router table - doesn't have to be fancy for now. Start with simple joints for you boxes - butt joints and rabbet joints. If you build your box so the grain is vertical there will be no end grain visible at the corners and your wil lbe gluing face grain to face grain - much stronger than gluing end grain. Miter joints required a fair amount of precision. I would recommend a good book on box making as ther are lots of ways to do anything. Doug Stowe is one author, off the top of my head. BTW, you should have no problem cutting thicker boards with a small table saw, you may need a support stand to help support the wood but it is very doable. Above all have fun!
  5. 2 points
    Brands like Craftsman an Rigid are doable but the tools you get in a price range you are looking are going to set you up for a certain amount of frustration in the accuracy that can be achieved. Constantly having to fiddle with the set up of a tool can turn an enjoyable hobby into something less the relaxing. Most everybody here has started in the hobby a tool at a time. I started with nothing more then a radial arm saw and a router. Replaced the radial arm saw with a contractor saw and added a bench top router table. A year latter I added a bench top planer and a small 6 inch jointer. Over the years all of this has been replaced with some pretty nice hobbyist gear. What you want to do is decide what it is, at this point, that you want to build and get a couple of tools to help get started. Rough lumber can save you money but if your tools aren't up to the task, you can waste wood with having to redo parts because of poor performing tools. Also see if you can find a hardwood dealer in your area that sells S3S lumber, (surfaced 3 sides) this can be a good way to start and is kind of between rough and the stuff you find at the big box. I would start with a table saw because you need to cut wood and you need to spend a little money here because wonky doesn't work and can be un-safe. Stay away from the small bench top or portable models. If you need the band saw to cut curves, start with a nice quality jig saw. If you want the bandsaw to re-saw lumber then you are going to have to re-think things because this takes a lot more band saw then your budget allows. You can get buy with a lesser quality planer but then you need to allow for snip so plan before you cut to final length. But in reality when you use lower grade tools it can take all the money you save buying rough cut lumber and throw it in the scrap pile. All in all it is a very rewarding hobby but it isn't a cheap hobby.
  6. 2 points
    Try a google search for "eleven groove box". The version I'm familiar with is from Roy Underhill, and requires maybe 3 hand tools to make. A small bench-top tablesaw, or even a small router table, can easily be set up to produce such boxes, using some simple jigs. If you are just getting started with machine-based woodworking, please take the time to study safe operating procedures. Your project calls for relatively small parts, that may put your body parts in the danger zone on these machines. There are safe methods to do it, please learn them.
  7. 1 point
    Nick may have stopped listening at this point but, to say that "no one has any decent input" is inaccurate when you have very good input from the first four responses. The folks here are not hoity-toity and recommending high-end, top-dollar tools like some forums do. They are also not going to tell you what you want to hear if this is going to steer you wrong. I re-started my journey with a 113. Craftsman/Emerson saw and 12" Craftsman bandsaw that cost me $180 for the pair. I did have to throw another few hundred dollars at them to get them working safely and reliably but, I was still money ahead. Once I realized that I was going to stick with it, this is where you seem to be now, I started squirreling away money while I diligently crawled the forums looking for those "best bang for the buck" tools that are out there. It helps to have a long-game. I used a planer sled for 18 months while I saved up for the jointer I wanted. That let me make items that bought me a planer and bandsaw upgrade . . . and so it goes. A bandsaw will take you farther, faster than almost anything this side of a good router combo. I would spend my dough there and set my sights on what's next. If none of this sets well I'm sure there's someone on some forum that will tell you how great the new Harbor Freight jointer is but, that would absolutely not be "decent input".
  8. 1 point
    Agree with this entirely. Grr-ripper block is a great safety investment if you’re cutting small pieces and would like to keep all of your fingers
  9. 1 point
    Frank you don't want to feel like you "settled" for something you didn't really start out to buy. I really don't see a problem with the straight knives. The ones on my Powermatic are outstanding and I would hate to thing that something that you would get from Hammer would be less quality then that. You're using this machine as a hobbyist. Its not like you are going to run miles of lumber per year through this machine. Get what you want or go else where but I would really want to talk to her supervisor before you leave. Its important the company knows why they lost a sale. Thats a lot of money she is chasing away from the company. She is probably trying to pump her commission but a zero sale creates a zero commission
  10. 1 point
    Just to not keep you guys hanging... (because I am sure you've all been loosing sleep wondering how my DIY lathe is coming... lol! I am giving up on this idea. I turned 40 this year, and I guess I've finally clicked-over from "Hmmm... Fuck it! let's go for it!" over into, "Wait, if that thing breaks off at 3,000 rpm, it could crack my skull." I guess adulthood is finally upon me. Also, I think we are going to rethink the whole process. Your plywood tubes intrigue me though. I cannot find them on the net. Could you post a link?
  11. 1 point
    You can get a jointer plane, a jack plane, and smoothing plane for around $900 from Lie Nielsen or Lee Valley. For power tools, you'll need to pick one to start with. A new DeWalt 735 planer with the extra infeed/outfeed tables would be around $600 and allow you to plane rough lumber up to 13" wide. You could put off the immediate need for a jointer by using a sled with the planer, or a scrub plane / jack plane, to remove high spots from the rough lumber and get it flat enough for planing. The DeWalt 735 is well-regarded for a portable planer. It's also what I have. Because my jointer is only a 6" model, I have to use the planer sled method for any rough lumber wider than 6". Eventually, I would like to get a wider jointer, or a Hammer jointer / planer combo machine and have a jointing capacity the same as the planing capacity.
  12. 1 point
    Unless you can adjust the budget, you aren't going to find more than one of the tools that you might acquire new. I understand your reluctance to go with used gear, but you really can get a lit more bang for the buck that way. If you still want new, I'd suggest buying the Dewalt 735 planer ($500+) and a nice jig saw. The planer can joint faces with the use of a sled, and the jig saw will do most of what a small bandsaw can do. Then save for the next purchase.
  13. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. Those boxes you linked would probaly be plywood cut with a laser cutter. They would be cut perfectly will no error. I'm sure you could set up a table saw jigs but I know I could never match it. You're probably better off looking at boxes that have different joinery. I've always like the style of this box: http://www.startwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/sushi-box-plan.pdf. It's cut with machines and hand tools. Instead of nails, he uses brass pins to add support to the joinery. This kind of box could be easily made with simple tools but you'd need a table saw to easily/consistently cut the slot for the lid.
  14. 1 point
    As for customer service, and whether or not they are reading this... they aren't. Felder left all social media last year when people got upset about not reading their agreements with facebook. They are honoring their sale because of great customer service. I've had the absolute best experience with my rep. Always answers the phone when I call, or calls back the same day. My machine was literally slid off the back of the delivery truck and was and is in perfect calibration. No issues whatsoever. YMMV with a cheaper machine.
  15. 1 point
    If i've learned anything. You'll more likely regret the $500 you didn't spend over the thousands you do spend. Also trust your gut. You know you and you are probably right for your situation.
  16. 1 point
    But then I'm still paying $99/year in US $$$. That's about $4000 in Canadian.
  17. 1 point
    You can buy plywood tubes 4’ or 5’ long in many diameters . Cover them with veneer.
  18. 1 point
    It's difficult to see from the larger image of the top, but the two breadboard ends are cut from the same piece of cherry. Both ends feature some lighter color sapwood. My thought was that these would provide some symmetry at the ends of the top. First end: Second end:
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    While I commend your ingenuity this would keep me from going that route. I doesn't seem like it would be an issue but in my mind that would be a royal pain and will reintroduce already collected dust back into the shop.
  21. 1 point
    Any big box store..... 30 gal. metal trash can. Works like a charm, and not expensive. Then remove hand print from forehead.