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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/11/18 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I know I'm wasting my time on this... But, almost everything... The problem with woodworking is your needs are the same as a pro... At the end of the day you still need precise joinery, which comes with working with flat material. Please feel free to disagree and shout "elitist", but you can't change the basics. What is complicated to understand is how someone asks a question and gets honest feedback related to all aspects of that situation. Then decides to complain that the feedback they are receiving isn't in line with their own research. It is by far the most disheartening aspect of being a member of any forum.
  2. 5 points
    Wife wanted these for some artwork. A little different but, certainly not difficult.
  3. 5 points
    How about sharing with us the things you plan to make? In reality, that will dictate the best choice of tools, more than budget. And let me clarify one point. I advised against spending money on inexpensive benchtop tools, because that is exactly what I did, and have regreted every penny spent that way. Yes, it is possible to build things with cheap tools, but to build things WELL with cheap, inconsistent tools requires a lot of patience, and a decent understanding of how those cheap tools are affecting your work. The fact that you mentioned a surface planer tells me that you expect to work with larger material. That influenced my suggestion to buy the DW735. I suggested that you stay away from sub-$500 benchtop bandsaws, because I had a couple different such machines. One, a Craftsman 3-wheeler, was a completely worthless piece of junk. The other, a steel-frame Craftsman 10" saw, was a perfectly good saw for small, scroll-type work, but its size limited it to handling almost nothing more than a jigsaw can do. I also own a benchtop jointer. Although the fence is a bear to keep straight and square, it will joint small boards well enough. But all too often, I find myself doing stuff like this: Which is really, really stupid. Save youself some headaches, and listen to the advice you asked for. It is worth a good deal more than you paid for it.
  4. 5 points
    Nick may have stopped listening at this point but, to say that "no one has any decent input" is inaccurate when you have very good input from the first four responses. The folks here are not hoity-toity and recommending high-end, top-dollar tools like some forums do. They are also not going to tell you what you want to hear if this is going to steer you wrong. I re-started my journey with a 113. Craftsman/Emerson saw and 12" Craftsman bandsaw that cost me $180 for the pair. I did have to throw another few hundred dollars at them to get them working safely and reliably but, I was still money ahead. Once I realized that I was going to stick with it, this is where you seem to be now, I started squirreling away money while I diligently crawled the forums looking for those "best bang for the buck" tools that are out there. It helps to have a long-game. I used a planer sled for 18 months while I saved up for the jointer I wanted. That let me make items that bought me a planer and bandsaw upgrade . . . and so it goes. A bandsaw will take you farther, faster than almost anything this side of a good router combo. I would spend my dough there and set my sights on what's next. If none of this sets well I'm sure there's someone on some forum that will tell you how great the new Harbor Freight jointer is but, that would absolutely not be "decent input".
  5. 3 points
    I can’t get over how cool it looks. Obviously not rosewood. Not really sure what type of wood it is.
  6. 3 points
    I posted what he wants to hear. Light weight, inaccurate, under powered machines that are technically what he is looking for that fall into the budget. Man...most of us are hobbyists who make zero dollars doing what we do. We speak from experience. Do what you want. The wen tools I posted above is likely the best you'll get new. You'll either get out of the hobby or start upgrading very soon.
  7. 3 points
    Well I ordered another block plane from LN. Have the small one, wanted the adjustable mouth one. So Christmas is early for me!
  8. 2 points
    I jointed for two years by hand. I sawed for one month by hand. I plane often today by hand. This sways my advice. This is just like a car dealership trying to sell you a car rather than fix your old one. Don’t shoot the messengers. They mean no disrepect. Most on this list of replies have benefitted from establishing those priorities and then getting to building. With $900, I would build straight line rip for a circ saw, unless by rough lumber you mean logs. Then maybe the band saw gets priority. Then I’d buy the best planer $900 will buy. I’d keep my eye out for a used handplane to joint wide boards. There are some good to poor workarounds for planing boards on edge. I have never tried it. That’s my advice built on my experience. That is all I can offer. I can not invent experience with Wen or other.
  9. 2 points
    This was that guys tote he made. I did some shaping and sanding but quite the amazing piece of wood there.
  10. 2 points
    This is confusing to me. People are taking the time to give you sound advise and you dismiss. I did 30 seconds of research on brands you mentioned in an earlier post and provided real numbers that indicate your budget is light at the moment. Your budget is your budget, but when advise is given on how to work around the constraints again it is dismissed. Tell us what you want to hear and then we will all understand. When I first started here, I didn't want to hear the truth from people, but guess what they were right in the end.
  11. 2 points
    It's the 12 inch with the straight knives, it's always been the 12 inch with the straight knives, lol. I could be happy with the 10 with the spiral. Or I could use a 11 inch wide board and cuss myself. I don't really agree with her that if I go straight knives I'm going to regret it in the future. Sure the spiral would be nicer, but I've been NEARLY satisfied with a 6 inch home depot jointer for years. If the straight knives had to be set like traditional knives, I might think otherwise. The quick set feature does it for me though. Make it easy for me to change the blades and I'll keep them sharp enough for good performance. I'm going to tell her what I want, again, and if she keeps jacking me around I'm going separate machines.
  12. 2 points
    I’d be interested to hear what your research is telling you. I understand that budget constraints can be difficult but I’m not sure that you can find much better advice than what you are getting from these very seasoned woodworkers. Working with low quality tools will often make this hobby quite miserable and in the long run, I think the strategies mentioned above, buying tools periodically when budget allows turn out to be the best. I started out with a circular saw and jigsaw and over the past 5 years have added the router, table saw, planer, and finally the jointer in the past month. Yes, I did a lot of work with lumber from the big box store to begin with, but it allowed me to build my skills and save for the tools that I really wanted. Just my two cents for the discussion.
  13. 2 points
    If I had $900 to spend... I'd get a Grizzly 555 bandsaw and a Ridgid or Dewalt planer. Save for the jointer down the road. Buy S4S lumber for now. There are too many compromises to get all three in that budget.
  14. 2 points
    I started woodworking as a child using my dad's tools. I bought my first tablesaw when I was 15 from Sears 45 years ago, it was inexpensive. I wore it out in just a few years. I replaced it with a used contractors saw that was belt drive and had a cast iron top. That saw is in my step fathers shop today & still running. I know you aren't hearing what you want but trust me buy one decent tool and save up for the next. If you ask which of the inexpensive tablesaws are worth having you will get honest opinions. The Ridgid tablesaws get fairly good reviews. The Dewalt planers are pretty good. If you go with the bottom end low quality machines the cut quality will suffer and that makes it harder to learn. It's a vicious circle. Good luck !
  15. 2 points
    Good morning guys. Thanks for the thoughts and prayers. Internet and cell service are not reliable right now but we're safe. Winds from last night to now have been helpful for me. A lot of people woke up with homes yesterday and are waking up without them today. Go hug your family.
  16. 1 point
    Sadly, I agree. Although I think not by intent, but by nature. Some people just wanna always be told they're right even when they know, on some level, they're not.
  17. 1 point
    Not a buddy, more like brothers, him and Coop. finest sort of people you would ever want to know and be their friend.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for clearing that up. Good idea.
  19. 1 point
    Got the cavity routed.....makin progress here
  20. 1 point
    I’ve never heard of it being done but I would imagine he was going to shrink wrap around the twisted wires to keep them from coming untied. Good idea. Great looking frames Kev.
  21. 1 point
    How they failed is also key. 50” is super wide and likely needs center support/guidance.
  22. 1 point
    Nice video, Kev. Thank you! I'm not clear on what you were going to shrink wrap???
  23. 1 point
    Very nice Kev. I did a handful of these for our house, but they were all for paintings that were about 4'x4'. Cutting the mitres on those was a bit of a challenge as I haven't built a jig like yours, and any errors are very pronounced over a 4' length. But they turned out and my wife was happy, so it's all good...
  24. 1 point
    I wouldn't store it in the attic. I'd find someone who could use it and either donate/sell it to them or loan it to them while making it clear you want it back. Very nice bassinet by the way!
  25. 1 point
    The fact you have to remove the fence to change from jointer to planer takes the Minimax out of contention.
  26. 1 point
    Dang Blue, with all of this advice, you should know what the right choice is
  27. 1 point
    I was trying to play sort of devils advocate. I catch a lot of poop for saying people need a 12K jointer... even though I think they do I know I wouldn't be happy with the Hammer.. but I'm in a different position than most folks. So it's very hard for me to offer advice.
  28. 1 point
    Maybe before having the 941 but now that you have had that machine for a while no way...heck every time I change over I think I really need to get a Felder and I only played with your machine for like five minutes LOL
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    I agree Gee Dub some good advice here I would definitely be looking for used Delta, Jet, Grizzly tools in that price range you can get two of the three for sure, and IMHO opinion the quality will be better not becuase there is anything wrong with Rigid (I started out with a rigid TS) or Craftsman although my hoity toity self would limit Craftsman to wrenches . Its just that for that price range to get full size tools you will have to go used and I would argue that's not opinion its a fact.
  31. 1 point
    I just did a quick search and a Ridgid Jointer is $599, the planer was $369, add in sales tax and you are at $1000 without the bandsaw. The reasons for a lot of answers you get, are because a lot of the experience people have here. Buying used is a solid option, but CL isn't always the answer, so posting a WTB ad here or other forums you might make your budget, otherwise find work a rounds like others have mentioned.
  32. 1 point
    I talked to a local guy who sold a spiral head 26 last year. He said he hated the combo machine and went to the 8" spiral head Jet jointer and a 15" PM planer and hasn't looked back since. Maybe the Jet jointer and a Grizzly planer is the ticket. She's taking the excitement out of the Hammer for me. After psyching myself up for the 31, I don't think I'll be happy with the 26.
  33. 1 point
    Honestly, I get it. The spiral head would be awesome, and I hate noise in the shop so the quieter operation would be fantastic. I've even got the money. This is just a massive luxury purchase for a hobby that makes zero cash in return, and pushing the envelope further and further isn't making me any more comfortable.
  34. 1 point
    It was rough so I planed and sized them up I have used this technique on many benches.. I first made the 2 ends. Then connected the 2 x 4"s . I used all stainless screws and titebond 3. I chose cedar and stainless because i think in the long run it is cheaper and less work. The weakest link in the chain is the 4 leg bottoms. I screwed on some high tech slippery plastic that is very tough. This should eliminate water wicking and add longevity. I think this table will out live me. Better that way than the other. The cross pieces are held by 2 #10 3" stainless on each end. As a senior citizen, the hardest part was getting up and down several times installing the bottom 1 X 12's. The bottom was 4 times hard for me due to the ups and downs. I'm glad I stared doing the hard part first. It was very easy on the top. I Have some cedar here outside fo a very long time. If you can keep its feet dry it lasts fo a very long time. I feel OK about face screwing everywhere. This is my standard for outdoor. I'm sure there is some fine joinery in the outdoors, but not mine. I know the screws won't rust... Next up is a storage shed. Since I'm spending some cash on the shed, I needed to clean up the area and get rid of a useless bench I inherited.
  35. 1 point
    Put brown "builders paper" down on a clean floor, then put whatever you want for flooring on top of that. Whenever you take it up, the floor will be just like new. We use it all the time in houses I work on. Normally, we use Masonite type hardboard for a working surface, to protect whatever is underneath. The important thing is to clean the floor good first. Tape the paper joints together with cheap masking tape, but make sure to not let the masking tape stick to the floor underneath. We just overlap the paper some, then tape. Tape is not absolutely necessary, but it makes it easier to take it up without letting any dirt or dust go through to the floor. If we are plastering, we'll put the paper down, then a layer of plastic, and then the hardboard on top. That keeps any spilled water from going down to the floor. You can buy the paper in the painting section at Lowes or Home Depot.
  36. 1 point
    Leaves lots and lots of leaves...but at least it was a beautiful day here in MN
  37. 0 points
    Sending my thoughts and prayers. Scary stuff. My brother-in-law and his sister were living in Paradise. They had enough time to grab a few clothes, the laptops, and their dogs, but that’s about it. They are sure the house is gone.