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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    So Chet i thought about doing it in 2 parts and then i just did it in 1 because i had the space but not the time. This way i could have it clamped up over night and it'd be ready to move out of the way in the morning. It wasn't terrible. So at times this has been fun and at times it's been tedious. The slides for the extension are an awesome idea and are going to work and look great when finished but boy oh boy was it tedius and not very fun. I just made an open sandwich instead of closing it like @Chet for the main reason of it's going to be hidden under the top and the only person that will see it will be me to put an extension in and who ever crawls under the table. Shaping the ends and gettign everything lined up was the worst part but that part is done! The above still needs some sanding which will remove that line but that's a task for tomorrow while glue is drying. What it should look like. I started applying finish to the leg parts as well as have them glued up. I did this to separate the finishing so it's not all at one time. My finishing area is a good 30 feet from the milling area so i applied a coat of finish did a bunch of milling and then applied a second coat and went to bed. This worked out really well. I got 5 coats applied in 3 days. Here it is extended only about half way though. I have some UHMW tape that i'm using to make sure that the parts that slide will keep sliding. I'll proabbly apply wax to it as well just as that little bit extra. Side detail with wedges. I put the top on to test the height but got excited and forgot. I also wanted to see how the floating look worked out and i really like it. Top center part. Here are the bredboard ends and extensions. Goal tomorrow is to get them glued up and then move some christmas gifts forward in the production line. I want to make sure that i have something to do while something is drying or finish is curing.
  2. 3 points
    I just poked in here to find it looks like a bunch of old farts at the coffee shop.. carry on.
  3. 3 points
    I think I'm calling this one done. Here's a picture with the drawer handle installed. At some point I may hang tools in the recessed sides, but it's good enough for now.
  4. 1 point
    This will be my first attempt at a Project Journal. Hopefully you can learn something from it and I can learn something from you as well. So the project is a set of bunk bed for my 5, almost 6 year old twin daughters. Wife and I bounced between simple and complex ideas and landed on something somewhere in between I would say. Probably more complex then needed, but should be a pretty fun build. Here is the image that is inspiring the design. I am not a Sketchup or other modeling software user, so hand drawn plans on paper is my method. (I spend all day at work in front of a computer, and worked my way out of modelling there (engineering) so I don't want to spend my free time doing that!). Changes from the picture (Ana White...) and the actual design is that I will be using all solid maple, so the head/foot boards will be real slats instead of slated nailed to plywood. I am also removing the drawers and just going with a bookcase style on that end. The other end will be configured as a little desk area. Wood was milled ~1 year ago and has been drying in the basement since. As I started into the stack I checked a few boards and they read either same or lower then any other boards in my shop, so I think it is dry enough. Step 1 was to go through and get the bulk of it sorted a bit for size/straightness and then ripped on the bad saw down to under 6" so I could run it across the joiner. By the end of the day I had found the 4 longest pieces I needed and got them worked down S3S and ready to be the rails.
  5. 1 point
    Great idea! I'm really glad I asked now since I never would have thought of it. I'm going to give this a try first since it's easily undone with no damage if I don't like it in practice. I like DerekMPBS keyhole slot idea too as a fallback. I have a couple ideas in my head on how I'd implement them for it. Thanks guys!
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Thats going to be a nice station. That low grade walnut you are using, is there a reason you lumber guy carries it. It doesn't seem like anything useful for furniture making and I can't think of an uses for it that would have him carrying it all the time.
  8. 1 point
    Yeah sorry you've lost the time and had the frustration. Must be a lesson in there somewhere but danged if I know what it is. There are good planers out there that'll do what you want but the universe is telling you "something else."
  9. 1 point
    No point in bothering, it's the exact same issue on the replacement machine. They already looked at the first one and had no idea what could cause it.
  10. 1 point
    I was thinking you could cut keyhole slots into the back of the top and then secure it with screws driven into the top of the cabinet. As long as they don't go all the way through the sub walls then you don't need to seal them. It would be removable as well.
  11. 1 point
    Zombie thread I know, but hey from Spokaloo (east of those mountains ).
  12. 1 point
    Double face foam tape. Reduce the transferred vibrations and just pull the top off to move & reinstall.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    One thing you have to consider is that the thing is gonna get lifted by that table top, and a sub is not a light thing. That rules out figure 8s. I think securing it from the inside with screws & oversized holes is the way to go here. But I wouldn't count on the silicone maintaining a seal if there's lots of wood movement. It doesn't take much of a leak to be audible. If you fully countersink the screw heads, & then screw a piece of MDF with weather stripping over top of each hole, that should seal it good & proper.
  15. 1 point
    Just a bit too far for a drop in darn it. I would run the model you next consider at the showroom. A failure to do this led to a bothersome return of a PM drill press. While returning I checked the floor model . . . same problem . Man those things are awkward; drill presses in general, not just PM.
  16. 1 point
    No. I'll drive the 1,000 miles down there, with a trailer, and get them out of your way.
  17. 1 point
    I bought 2 sticks of green Honey Locust a little over a year ago. They dried nicely standing against the wall- I got a little cupping, but lost less than 1/4 inch when I planed it flat. Took a couple of slices, laminated it with some Paduk I had laying around and came up with this:
  18. 1 point
    Very nice execution. Making good progress. Must make the comment that I'm excited to see a bunch of projects started in this section along with Derek's in the Advanced section.
  19. 1 point
    I've tried to answer this a couple of times but, I keep coming off like a sanctimonious ass . What it boils down to is that as I have learned more, I have found that the acts that used to cause me a major pucker-factor have been replaced by safe ways of doing those things. Safe operational practices are a learned behavior that replaced my guns-a-blazin-get-'er-done approach of the past. If I am approaching an operation and I do not feel good about it, I back off and figure out why. Often a clamped-on auxiliary fence, guide, a feather board, some additional stock or tool support is the answer. In the grand scheme of getting from material selection to placing a new piece in its new home, the time spent to make sure you do those one or two operations safely is small potatoes.
  20. 1 point
    The operator is the most dangerous. Whether we are tired, over estimate our own abilities or whatever it still comes back to the 1 person that pushes the power button.
  21. 1 point
    Unless it was designed to make T-111 siding? Heck yeah, call the seller. What brand?
  22. 1 point
    Spray it with a shellac before the WB it'll be just as fast and easy but will add some warmth or you could try endurovar for the first coat.
  23. 1 point
    When you remove a more material from one side than the other you can release tension and expose deeper layers to either gain or loose moisture. That can cause wood to move unevenly. So even (within reason, let's not get too obsessive) removal of material and plenty of acclimation time are a good idea. Buy a moisture meter to track changes. Monitoring the humidity levels in your shop/lumber storage area is not a bad idea either.
  24. 1 point
    Turn a "screwdriver" handle after mortising a square hole to fit the square head, and you can run them right in, without worrying about damaging anything. They should include a plastic driver.
  25. 1 point
    Use the same size regular screw to pre-gimbal the hole, not quite all the way. Driving them won't be the biggest hurdle. The hardest part will be not to get any scratches on anything. I'd still go with those over slotted though.