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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kiln-Dried-Spalted-Wormy-Maple-Live-Edge-Wood-Slab-Plank-Extremely-Rustic-DIY/283296091690?hash=item41f5c34e2a:g:hiUAAOSwLgpcDIDC Bit far gone, innit? I mean it's cool, don't get me wrong. If I could get it for free I'd take it as a challenge to see if enough epoxy and black magic could reanimate it.
  2. 2 points
    It depends on what they were turning. It's important to keep in mind that a spindle roughing gouge is only for long grain work. That is wood blanks where the grain runs parallel to the ways. So if the wood blanks you saw being turned had grain running perpendicular to the ways it would be "normal" not to use a spindle roughing gouge. Because of this limitationI have seen some turners use a heavy bowl gouge instead since this tool can be used regardless of grain direction.
  3. 2 points
    thank you all for your help with my project, it turned out great and my wife loves it! I am a novice at this but it turned out really good. I used my buddy's mill to mill a flat spot for each leg and a flat channel between the legs as there was a bow in the long direction as well. I then used Figure 8 desktop fasteners on the ends of the stretcher, glued the legs and the stretcher and it worked beautifully. I did end up ordering a hickory live edge board from ebay and used that for the stretcher.
  4. 2 points
    When we left off, it was with the carcase together ... Step 1: clean up the carcase Low angle plane for the end grain and cross grain ends .. Then the face grain top and bottom .. And I had a chance to use a small BU infill smoother I made several years ago on the edges. Perfect for one-handed smoothing ... Step 2: Time to round the ends. In the test piece, it looked like this .. This lacked the inside hollowed filet. The build today starts with the making of the filet. The first decision was that this had to be made of end grain. If it was made of side grain, the sides of the filet would be end grain, which would clash - darken - with the side grain of the carcase when a finish is applied. Fortunately, I had this one last offcut. Just enough ... The filet is triangular with a hollow on the outside. I first tried shaping this with a hollow plane on a sticking board, having sliced off a triangular section on the table saw. It was impossible to do. No way to hold the wood and plane it. I tried a number of variations. I won't go there. They were all impossible. You do it, you're a better man - or woman - than me. You're probably better anyway Finally I came up with this. Start with ripping a 45 degree bevel on the table saw (slider here, with board held in a Fritz and Franz jig) ... The router table is set up with a round nose bit ... The mitre can be run past this and the bit will shape a round hollow .. https://i.postimg.cc/fynGngm7/4.jpg[/img Now saw this off on the table saw ... I made a bunch of them (as they are a little fragile) ... Before glueing them in, each was sanded - 80/120/240 grit on a dowel, with the filet held on the sticking board .. The filets were then glued in (Titebond hide glue for everything). A dowel was used to place pressure evenly on the corners ... Step 3: shape the ends I used a larger washer than this one this time to mark out the curve (as the radius needed to be reduced) ... Then began planing ... Refined with a block plane ... ... and finished with sandpaper. That's it for today. Next I begin the tapered and splayed legs. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 1 point
    Been building this for my 3 and 5 year old boys. As always, what started out as a ‘throw together’, got carried away...but it’ll survive a nuclear blast. The design is mostly from Chris Schwartz’s 18th century (Roubo) bench, but I skipped the sliding dovetail tenon/through tenon combo joinery on the legs. Went with through-tenons only, but upgraded to from 2 to 4 shoulders on each. Cut all the junk out of some 2x12 SYP that I’ve been stockpiling. Milled the clearest pieces 3 inches wide for the top and ‘face glued them’. I glued up the top 4 boards at a time , then glued my theee 4-board laminations together. Remembered (too late) when i was gluing the top together that the truley quartersawn boards left me with ugly face grain on the bench top. Sandwiching those pieces between the riftsawn boards (with straight grain all around) was a pleasing design modification, as it gives the look of one big flatsawn 3”’ slab. Other bonehead move was drilling my 3/4” dog holes a half inch from the front. No idea what I was thinking when i did that. Wound up just ripping that whole bit off after the glue-up. Used a dado stack for my leg tenons. Made them exactly 1” wide (tried to anyway) so I could use my 1” chisel on the (3” deep) mortises without ever having to really turn my chisel parallel the the long walls of mortise. 2 tenons were a perfect fit, one needs some plane work, and the other was too thin, which a piece of glued-on veneer rightly fixed. More to follow.
  6. 1 point
    Megan has been requesting fresh herbs in the kitchen for a while. So i decided to make a rack that hangs by the window in our kitchen to put some potted herbs on. Light is important so i researched grow lights and found all the stoner options on pretty much every site out there. Those are a no go, A. I'm not a stoner and the lights don't look cool, B. I'd like something that blends in. So i researched what light plants need and remembered all those you tubers that got lights from American green light. What the heck I'll give them a shot. The joinery was screws that were plugged. I made treys to hold the pots that had some empty space underneath to hid the lights so when you look at it the light just seems to appear. To run the wires i kerfed the back of the vertical supports and hot glued the wires in. The key was to be flexible in case the idea didn't hit the mark. The whole thing was made from cherry because i have scraps that need to get used. The bottom trey is taller to hide the LED ballast. Here you can see the ballast and the lights. These things are BRIGHT!!!!! and awesome. They are perfectly color balanced so my camera picks up color like i'm under sunlight. I got the 4000k versions of the LEDs because the 5000K ones irritate my eyes and 3000K look yellow. I ran some super overkill cord. The power cord is 16 ga SOOW to run a 24 watt led ballast..... I didn't have any lamp cord and this is what i had around. Did half laps for the first time to make mounting brackets to attach the rack to the wall. On the brackets i fastened figure 8s and used screws and anchors to hold it up there. In the picture above on the left side there is a little leg that braces against the window frame. This makes it so the screws only need to hold sheer forces. Did a test run before i warpped it up to make sure that everything was going to work out ok. Lights were nice, they didn't overly illuminate the kitchen when it's dark but they put a LOT of lights on the plants. Turned out Megan loves it. I wrapped the pots and seeds for herbs separate and had her open the pots first and the seeds 2nd. She was so confused until she read the seed packets. After i got it hung she ended up having a great idea to get chalkboard stickers and write the plants names under their position. She was worried that i wouldn't go for it. I thought it was a great idea and told her it was her rack and gift so she could do with it as she pleased. I ended up buying some already growing herbs and we have started trying to germinate seeds for the rest of the types that we don't use as often. Here is a picture of it today. We have some germinated seeds we need to get into starter pots for a couple weeks and it should be full of mature herb plants by March. I'm so impressed by the American Green Light lights that i'm going to work to convert my shop lights over to their system. They match sunlight so well and the color balance is more relaxing to the eye. they are also very low profile so i should be able to mount them places that regular fixtures just won't work. There is no reason that light fixtures need to be big any more. The whole project took me 3 hours or something. Finish is just shellac. I figured the finish is going to get abused by water so why not go with something somewhat durable but easy to repair.
  7. 1 point
    Damn, it's nice to see you back here.
  8. 1 point
    Hey, remember you get points for any project that you finish and she likes. That's kinda the backbone of a craftsmans world. If your woodworking buddies approve that's icing on the cake. Working with old materials is twice if not 3 times as hard. Is it straight ? Is it flat and square to an adjacent side ? Then and only then are you off to a good start. But don't freak out, 40 + years of experience and I still get materials or a project that refuse to cooperate ....
  9. 1 point
    What is the Imperial size in relation to the Metric size? Sometimes you can switch from one to make another actually work.
  10. 1 point
    Dave if the ole boy from Houston don’t like this, he needs to go see a Dr.
  11. 1 point
    Your piece is going to look different to a woodworker than it will to average Joe. Those looking with a critical eye here are going to ask about bookmatching. Joe Blow on the street who happens to see the piece is just going to say, "Wow!" I've learned to turn my critical eye off, not point out the errors - no matter how glaring, and accept the compliments on things many "woodworkers" would reject. Build for you, not for the approval of others. That being said, WHAT WERE YOU THINKING?! Just kidding. I think they look great and would happily put the finished piece in my bedroom.
  12. 1 point
    Sorry guys, but the bowl turners like pretty wood too.
  13. 1 point
    Now I see where you stash your plywood.
  14. 1 point
    That is great looking. When does the Bench Crafted hardware show up.
  15. 1 point
    There is a good chance that your dowel isn't perfectly round. Most dowels change shape after they are made.
  16. 1 point
    It sounds like he hasn’t drilled a hole yet and doesn’t have a bit large enough for the dowel? I agree with Frank, spin the dowel while sanding it. Or treat the dowel like a shoe, put it in a vise and use your sandpaper strip like a buffing cloth, if your old enough to remember those ?
  17. 1 point
    If your drill press chuck is big enough, then spin it while sanding down to size.
  18. 1 point
    Let me guess, you got your info from a DIY youtube? There's way more misinformation than information out there. As Steve said, you need to get that mess off. Polymerizing oil finishes, like boiled linseed oil, should only be used over bare wood or over previous oil coats, not over any kind of film forming finish. Even if the linseed oil eventually fully cures, it won't form a tough finish at all & it is sensitive to heat & moisture. Not a good finish for a table top. Naptha would probably be the quickest thing to use to clean the surface, but be sure to test on an inconspicuous area. If the Naptha's too harsh then try mineral spirits. Get this done sooner rather than later because the linseed oil will get harder to remove as it cures. What's the value of the table? If it has value as an antique then it's probably best to take it to a pro who can get the top looking good without ruining its value as an antique.
  19. 1 point
    Cut the stretchers and I sed the domino for the stretcher to leg joinery. The through-tenons for the legs into the top will be drawbored as well. Any excuse to use my egg beater drill. Dry fit and tight as a drum without glue or pegs. Gravity is doing most of the work here. It’s a really heavy top. Here’s a pic of it in front of my bench for sense of scale.
  20. 1 point
    If you jave some way to make a 21mm hole in thinner material, make a template as chestnut said, and use a top bearing pattern bit in your router. Or stick the dowel in the microwave and see if you can shrink it.
  21. 1 point
    I got the sides glued up. I didn't want to let the panels sit much longer with finish on one side. I know they'd probably stay stable as the have for the last month. I wiped some mineral spirits on the flashier side that will face the more seen part of the room. I wanted to see how the wood was going to look with finish on as well as see how close the color will be between the air dried walnut and the commercial steamed walnut. I have no complaints. It's obviously not as vibrant but it doens't look out of place. It also helps highlight the panels which is what I'm going for. After all too much of a good thing is a bad thing. Here are both sides side by side. Next up is the vertical divider and web frames. I have a surplus of cherry off cuts from my last project so all of the secondary wood is going to be cherry. It probably seems like a waste but it's what I've got and because it's random small amounts the pieces will never make it to a future project for color match reasons. Some of the parts are reclaimed from a cherry door that was given to me. The door had a lot of sapwood in it that was disguised with a tinted finish. All of the material was right around 1.25" thick so i figured i'd resaw the parts and make the web frames a hair under 5/8" thick. After milling resaw and planing they ended up at 9/16ths so i lost 1/8" to the blade kerf jointing and planing. Most of the losses was because i filed at splitting the pieces down the center. My love hate relationship with the Resaw King has less hate than love at the moment. At the same time i milled the material for the vertical divider and walnut pieces that will end up being the fronts of the web frames. I milled the divider stock all at the same time so it's exactly the same thickness. It ended up being around 1 1/8" thick. The center divider is going to take a fair load from the drawers and clothing so I ended up going with double 6mm dominoes. The increased clue area is more beneficial than just going with a thicker domino especially with the forces pushing on the width of the domino. The piece of walnut is the vertical divider. While clamping i took extra care to make sure everything was square. This part is going to be crucial in the construction so i figured the extra care was important. I made sure not to over tighten the clamps as well and just used enough pressure to close the joint. Next is assumbly of the web frames. This was done with 6mm dominoes as well. I"m less concerned about the structure of these than i am for the divider. There is going to be a good long grain joint on the center divider as well as a decent long grain joint on each side panel. I also made the oversized so i can trim them down after construction. As good as i may seem i don't trust my joinery to be perfectly square here and will trim everything down after the fact on my table saw sled or maybe with the track saw and table saw. Not sure yet. So far i have one side complete. The bottom web frames are going to take a bit extra and different work and might be completed upon assembly of the entire carcass. This glue up is going to be stressful.
  22. 1 point
    Revisiting an old topic over the new year. I met up with the extended family in question and found that this toy is still in use...though not by the child we thought we were building for.
  23. 1 point
    Sand your doors down to150 grit . Get all the dust off before you finish and sand between coats. I would sand ,prime and put on one coat on the front and back sides of the door panels before you put the doors together. The reason for that is when your ply panel moves you don't end up seeing unpainted wood.
  24. 1 point
    Why in the world would you floss a fish's teeth?!?!!?
  25. 1 point
    https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/sawstop-inline-router-table-attachment.aspx I agree that it doesn't look like it has any improvements over what's currently available. I thought they would have utilized the ts fence somehow by adding an attachment to it. The Incra / Jessem lifts with the slotted inserts also seem to offer better dc.