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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/04/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 3 points
    I got it a few days after Christmas, but my awesome wife hooked me up! The bandsaw that I had previously belonged to a friend who finally bought a new house where he could set it up. I need to order a 1/4 or 1/8 blade for it, but I'm so ready to put this into service!
  3. 3 points
    Custom fishing rods- 50% deposit and balance when ready to ship. Lowe's- pay in full when special ordering anything. Sign in country store- In God we trust; All others pay cash.
  4. 2 points
    Bmac the hydraulic on the new big mills, so fast turning logs that you better have four corners anchored in concrete. Are the front end of the mill will turn sideways with you.
  5. 2 points
    Hold off on the Woodpeckers fence until you have gotten used to using the Domino. There is an aftermarket accessory called the "Domiplate " that is very useful with 1/2" and 3/4" lumber & plywood. That accessory fence seems way to unwieldy to me, not to mention the price !
  6. 2 points
    Welcome to the forums. "The Shaker table." Mick is right in that there are many techniques that you will use in the future in this one project.  And if you go to the guild link below you can pre-order Marc's new book on Joinery, which can be helpful in itself, and you can get a guild project along with it. The book by itself is $25 but for $5 dollars more you get the guild project also. The book is due in March but you get the project immediately. https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/essential-joinery-pre-order/
  7. 2 points
    Those will make some nice hats when they get dry.
  8. 2 points
    While waiting for the slabs to dry, might as well do some green turning with some of the rest of the tree.
  9. 2 points
    After 40+ years I've learned to detect the tire kickers from the questions they ask. I guess it's an instinct learned from expensive lessons and experience. Sometimes the statement " I can make your dreams come true but it won't be fast or cheap " is the sort of challenge that weeds out the tire kickers from the clients worthy of the attention to detail that comes from all of those expensive mistakes we all make. To imply they can't afford it is occasionally quite successful at hooking the client with the appropriate funds to make a difficult request become reality. Then you must rise to the occasion and deliver... if that's not scary as hell you are either over confident or just plain stupid. Never ask an inebriated craftsman a question that started over 4 years ago if you can't handle the truth.....
  10. 2 points
    Hey, remember you get points for any project that you finish and she likes. That's kinda the backbone of a craftsmans world. If your woodworking buddies approve that's icing on the cake. Working with old materials is twice if not 3 times as hard. Is it straight ? Is it flat and square to an adjacent side ? Then and only then are you off to a good start. But don't freak out, 40 + years of experience and I still get materials or a project that refuse to cooperate ....
  11. 2 points
    I think you need to find a kiln and get this project going at a faster pace... we're burning daylight here.
  12. 2 points
    Nice! Don't be concerned about the time. Some of us are so slow that your journal stands a good chance of not being the longest posted, even with watching wood dry!
  13. 1 point
    I had a maple tree in my back yard that has been having some problems with fungus. None of the limbs had died, but about half of the tree would drop leaves by mid July for the last few years. Some of the bark started to fall off this year so it was time to come down. I recently got a guild project for a Friday live question and got the sculpted rocker build. I thought a rocker made from a spalted maple from my yard that I cut and milled with the help of a friend sounds like a good story. So here is the tree work. Stay tuned for the build in about a year and a half. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    That's why I use the term " waterbourne " the water is a carrier and the resin is floating in it. The pro stuff I use is catalysed and very tough. It's actually kinda hard to strip, takes longer & use of stronger chemicals.
  15. 1 point
    Here’s the pecker pole rainbow poplar going on the mill. I hope to get around 375 bdft of 4/4 lumber out of it. At Coop’s Houston price of $7.00 per bdft X 375 bdft = $2,625.00
  16. 1 point
    +1 to @RichardA I will add that you can often find a deal (This is happening right now @ Acme and Rockler) where you get the DW735, the in and outfeed tables, an extra set of blades and a very nice stand for $650 - which is a heck of a deal. Note that this would not include the helical cutterhead.
  17. 1 point
    The rainbow poplar starts first try and doesn't leak.
  18. 1 point
    Coop rainbow poplar the same thing to a woodworker, that a honda is to a harley rider. But the harley rider will ride a Honda if he knows his buddies want catch him riding it. Same with a woodworker and rainbow poplar.
  19. 1 point
    Today I finished a plant stand for my wife The timber I used was from an old hardwood framed shed, that was demolished 4 years ago ( to our knowledge the timber was approx 75 yo) After trying to draw something in SketchUp I headed over to the forums and was lucky enough to have Dave Richards lend a helping hand to my design incompetencies and he actually draw me a plan for the bench. The bench is not exactly as planned but I am happy with the outcome and my wife is overjoyed ( which is a bonus in itself) As the timber was very old and weathered as you can imagine it took me quite awhile to clean it up, remove small splits along the edges etc. My lack of ability to make nice mitred cuts ( along with the rough sawn timber and my small mitre saw) meant the the end legs are not exactly square but they turned out ok, the beauty of rustic I used my crosscut sled to make the rebates in the long rails ( which was a chore in itself due to the length of the rails and the grip I needed to hold onto them) In total, I learned something, got to practice some skills, cleaned up scrap timber from under the hose and made my wife happy
  20. 1 point
    Dave you want to see the Rainbow poplar lumber I will be cutting in the morning. 10ft long and 26” on the small end? 300’ log footages If you don’t want to see it, I want post any pics. I know it’s junk lumber but it sells great here.
  21. 1 point
    Yes No Applying wax will allow you to "fill in" some of the scratches from leveling the surface and make it feel smoother. The effect is going to be minimal and it will also wear away and need to be refreshed regularly. If the piece gets used frequently i'd advise against this just because shellac and wax isn't the most durable. The wax may add some small additional protection from moisture. Think once a year accidental small spill not wiping down weekly with a damp rag. It won't damage the finish. A solvent will remove the wax if needed.
  22. 1 point
    I've never understood why you would want the RT on the left side of the blade, unless you had the right end of the saw against a wall or other obstruction. It would always be in the way. Someone enlighten me.
  23. 1 point
    You have that backwards.....PCS has the motor door on the left, ICS is on the right. PCS: ICS:
  24. 1 point
    I'm in the "chuck the dowel in your electric drill, give it a few spins in a sheet of sand paper and be done with it" camp.
  25. 1 point
    Hey, I wonder if I should make my wife one of those Hygienic Hog Slaughtering Tables?
  26. 1 point
    Sometimes, it just happens. I try to do final milling just before using to help avoid stuff like this. I'll rough mill everything early in a project and then final just before use. This allows rough milled parts to sit for a while and do what they're going to do.
  27. 1 point
    I'm with you, Chip Sawdust. People don't realize what it costs for an independent auto repair shop. Plus the computer to do all the diagnostics. Chestnut, good answer! Then when what they buy falls apart, you can build a piece of furniture that will last. An example is the antique furniture that was built 100 years ago or even older.
  28. 1 point
    I do a lot of work for a local trophy shop and they called me in recently to come in and meet with a prospect wanting a custom piece to set on a desk. I met with the prospect and we exchanged pleasantries for a minute, then he showed me his sketch and asked if I could build it for $35. Without blinking I said, "We've used $35 just for me to drive over and meet with you." There was dead silence for 5 seconds and I never looked away. He finally laughed and said, "It was worth a shot!" The piece ended up around $250 and he was thrilled, even referred others to me for work. A long time ago I learned to cut the job but not the price. This is my price for the piece you want built - period. Back when I built dining tables, conference tables, and other large furniture pieces - mid 80's to early 90's - I was often asked to build a dining table sized for 10 people and to do it for $2k (I don't recall what we charged but this will work for discussion purposes). I would reply that I can do it but it will only seat 8. You can sit closer together or pay $2,500 for the 10 seat size - your call. In every case they paid the higher price to get what they wanted. While I don't recall providing a price breakdown I'm sure it has happened a few times. But as a general rule I just provide a price and timeline and stick to both. If I go over on the time I estimated it would take to complete the job then that's on me. Just like if I finish a job in 5 hours that I thought would take 8, and charged based on it taking 8, then I've been more efficient than I planned and made a little more 'per hour' than usual. But it balances out with jobs that take longer than I planned. If I was charging by the hour for labor I might look at this differently, though. David
  29. 1 point
    I usually give those people the directions to the nearest Walmart. Someone offered me $40 for the bocote coat rack i made because they saw something similar on amazon. I laughed the wood alone was worth double that.
  30. 1 point
    It's interesting how people react to a craftsman regarding pricing. They ask the furniture maker for a discount. Do they ask the grocery store for a discount? The barber or hair stylist? Auto mechanic? I built custom fishing rods for seven years. People would tell custom builders- I can get a fishing rod at Walmart for 30 bucks. The reply is- Yes, and they all look alike. Every one of my rods was unique, no two alike. Same with furniture as the customer will want something different.
  31. 1 point
    When we left off, it was with the carcase together ... Step 1: clean up the carcase Low angle plane for the end grain and cross grain ends .. Then the face grain top and bottom .. And I had a chance to use a small BU infill smoother I made several years ago on the edges. Perfect for one-handed smoothing ... Step 2: Time to round the ends. In the test piece, it looked like this .. This lacked the inside hollowed filet. The build today starts with the making of the filet. The first decision was that this had to be made of end grain. If it was made of side grain, the sides of the filet would be end grain, which would clash - darken - with the side grain of the carcase when a finish is applied. Fortunately, I had this one last offcut. Just enough ... The filet is triangular with a hollow on the outside. I first tried shaping this with a hollow plane on a sticking board, having sliced off a triangular section on the table saw. It was impossible to do. No way to hold the wood and plane it. I tried a number of variations. I won't go there. They were all impossible. You do it, you're a better man - or woman - than me. You're probably better anyway Finally I came up with this. Start with ripping a 45 degree bevel on the table saw (slider here, with board held in a Fritz and Franz jig) ... The router table is set up with a round nose bit ... The mitre can be run past this and the bit will shape a round hollow .. https://i.postimg.cc/fynGngm7/4.jpg[/img Now saw this off on the table saw ... I made a bunch of them (as they are a little fragile) ... Before glueing them in, each was sanded - 80/120/240 grit on a dowel, with the filet held on the sticking board .. The filets were then glued in (Titebond hide glue for everything). A dowel was used to place pressure evenly on the corners ... Step 3: shape the ends I used a larger washer than this one this time to mark out the curve (as the radius needed to be reduced) ... Then began planing ... Refined with a block plane ... ... and finished with sandpaper. That's it for today. Next I begin the tapered and splayed legs. Regards from Perth Derek
  32. 1 point
    It sounds like he hasn’t drilled a hole yet and doesn’t have a bit large enough for the dowel? I agree with Frank, spin the dowel while sanding it. Or treat the dowel like a shoe, put it in a vise and use your sandpaper strip like a buffing cloth, if your old enough to remember those ?
  33. 1 point
    A few progress shots. The main focus is to complete the carcase. However, to do the carcase, it is important to plan ahead for the drawer case. The drawer case (at 10mm) is half the thickness of the carcase (20mm). The (eventual) drawer fronts (one for each side) will be the same Fiddleback Jarrah as the top and sides, and will be inset (rather than lipped). The purpose of the thinner sides is simply aesthetic - I want it to look lighter, to subtly separate it from the carcase. The drawer front will be the same thickness as the carcase, and the drawer sides the same thickness as the drawer case. Before beginning on dovetailing the ends, stopped dados were marked out for the drawer case. The lower- and upper panels were clamped together and a MDF template of the drawer case set in position... Marked out, chisel walls made ... ... to guide the saw cut ... Then chiseled .. ... and routered out ... Following the method outlined previously, the two ends and the top were joined with mitred through dovetails ... One edge ... .. and the other side ... The plan now is to size the drawer case sides before dovetailing and joining the lower panel. Why the templates and sizing at this stage? When the two ends of the lower panel have been dovetailed, the two sides of the drawer case must be fitted before the panel can be attached. In other words, these three pieces are fitted together at the same time. Now, as the sides of the drawer case run in a stopped dado, they need to be sized beforehand. This fitting is different and far more exacting that in the typical carcase which as a stopped dado on one side only, and the dividing panels (which I term the drawer case) are slid in, allowing one to mark where the front rebates will go. In the present build, the front and rear rebates need to be determined beforehand, and cut before the parts are brought together. The MDF template is to aid in measuring up the sides for the drawer case. This is one of the (number of) surprises of this build: it looks so simple from the outside, but when it comes to constructing ... In the photo below, the dados are checked for size with a 10mm wide template ... An MDF template checks the case sides are parallel ... At the far end is another MDF template to size the drawer case sides ... That's it for now. Regards from Perth Derek
  34. 1 point
    Not to buy anything big until the pickup is paid off. If i can keep expenses low it should be paid off in time for black Friday next year.
  35. 1 point
    Does the planer run with no load, and not trip the breaker? If not, I'd lean toward an electrical issue with the motor. However, if it only trips while cutting, regardless of how lightly, I would suspect a bearing or other mechanical problem in the drive train. One motor drives the cutter, feed rollers, AND the chip ejector fan. Lots of places to bind up. You haven't mentioned odd noises, feed rate changes, or poor chip ejection, all of which would be signs of mechanical failure, so its still mysterious. Just curious, did the segmented cutter help any with the noise that planer makes?
  36. 1 point
    Brushes /dirty rotor ? Long cord/small gauge cord ? I'm just guessing
  37. 1 point
    I finally got back around to working on these. Sanded everything to 180 over the last couple of weeks, and began the glue up last night. I softened the corners by hand with 240 prior to gluing everything together. Here is one of the side assemblies laid out and ready for glue. I glued up both sides, allowed them to "set", then finished gluing up the bases. The lower shelves fit into slots in the side rails, and I found that a slight bevel on the shelf panel ends assisted greatly with assembly. While the bases were in clamps, I decided to finally bite the bullet and cut the table tops down to finished size. I have been putting this step off for a while as I don't yet have a crosscut sled. The miter gauge worked just fine. Here we are now. The bases are glued up, tops cut and sanded to 180. I hope to begin staining and finishing this week, but we will see how it goes. I do know that these things are heavy!
  38. 1 point
    I feel like they got me sold on one. I tried to buy it when I got my saw a few weeks ago but they were out of stock and not expecting any until June. For me it's all about it being designed for my saw, so I know it fits perfectly - and it clears out a bit chunk of space in the shop from my stand alone router table. So I feel like I will get one eventually.
  39. 0 points
    Here’s $45.00 going in the junk pile.