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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Getting much closer now!
  2. 3 points
    I would expect pins or nails to make that assembly more involved than necessary; JMHO. I would use spacers to assure the dividers are perpendicular to the base and clamp them. If you are short on clamps, use spacers and clamp the first few for 30 minutes, remove the clamps and carefully move on down the line. I frequently work on sub-assemblies after 30 minutes to an hour of set time with PVA glue as long as the next activity will not put stress on the previous glued joints. Your butt joints where the base meets the sides could be better served with an 1/8" deep dado but, a hidden glue block could help here as well. I would do all the top elements, then the front/back to base connection leaving the sides for last if you decide to skip the dados. We all have our own way for getting from A to Z
  3. 3 points
    I've basically got the joinery fit together. A couple of the bridle joints need a bit of finessing to close done gaps, but it's all square and going together fine. Here's my mock up, after I heaved the top back onto the bench. And a view of the under carriage. It definitely looks like I'm building the ultimate bench on bench here... This thing is heavy!
  4. 3 points
    Amen on the noise. But I'm lucky, I just turn my hearing aids off and they become earplugs. Huh?
  5. 2 points
    Yeah, I wasn't sure exactly what it was called but I did plan for a slot in the top part for each divider. Here is a close up.
  6. 2 points
    So far so good. Two more layers ffinished this morning and wood cut for the next layer.
  7. 2 points
    Yeah, coffee table fairy... the one with the 4" splinter in his right forefinger.
  8. 2 points
    I pulled the trigger on the domino this am. Also got the kit with tenons and extra cutters. Should be here Monday or Tuesday. Also ordered the domiplate since the majority of my work will be 3/4 ply. I intend to spend time practicing on leftover before real work.
  9. 1 point
    Ive been working on my first open segment bowl today. I cut wood for it yesterday and glued up a base. It has 18 segs to the ring, sassafrass for the background wood, black walnut and yellowheart for the feature pattern. Im usng the jig Earl Rasmussen developed and featured on his youtube channel, Earls Small Segment Shop. More later
  10. 1 point
    Hey everyone! Back from the dead. Here’s what I’ve been up to for the last three months or so! https://imgur.com/gallery/heMQGGJ It’s a sideboard that will serve as an entertainment center for a client. Solid cherry all over, with cherry veneer plywood for the shelves, back panel, and internal vertical components. The only screws in it are holding the ledger strips in place and fastening the top via figure-8 fasteners. I’m pretty happy with it!
  11. 1 point
    My daughter recently started collecting succulents and Tillandsias (air plants). Honestly, I had never heard of air plants but as the name implies, they grow without the need for soil. They can be purchased at your local nursery or garden center and online. Anyway, she wanted a way to display them. Online, you will find various options for containers with the most common selection being glass terrariums. I wanted to make something a little different. Also, it's an excuse to use my scrap wood. Block 1 - CAD Rendering Block 1 Dimensions Forstner Bit (.75" & 1") for holes Router for chamfers Block 2 - CAD Rendering Block 2 Dimensions Same process with holes - blind .75" diameter hole. Chamfer sides. Added air slots with a table saw. Final Pics...she loved them. Thanks for viewingMore Info: https://www.instructables.com/id/Air-Plant-Holders/
  12. 1 point
    I'd get it home rip it in half and it'd still be too wide for my jointer.
  13. 1 point
    Wrap it in a packing blanket held in place with some stretch wrap or packing tape then use a small hand truck to wheel it in. Saves your back, prevents scratches and increases curiosity if anyone catches you making the delivery. I've got one of those collapsible hand trucks that would work well for that job, they aren't expensive and fit in the trunk until needed.
  14. 1 point
    Dave a guy here buys it up and makes kids toy chest out of it. I would say they would sell good.
  15. 1 point
    Dave would you have a board of the rainbow poplar in your shop? Hard on a old man stacking wet poplar 14” to 22” wide 10 ft long.
  16. 1 point
    What I get from my audiologist, is that the smaller the electronics, the higher the price, Medical or not.
  17. 1 point
    Also deny any knowledge of where it came from and suggest the coffee table fairy must have delivered it.
  18. 1 point
    Nailing into 1/4”? Expect many failures unless you use short nails just for registration. Longer nails often do not follow a 1/4” wide path and will poke out the side. That’s some of the reasoning behind wtn’s advice above.
  19. 1 point
    A bed and a hot plate or microwave and you might not ever need to go into the house! Really nice space!
  20. 1 point
    What a great space Kev!!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    I like your space, in fact I like your space a lot. I do have one thing you may or may not want to consider......... The Bench! I really would like to be able to access my work bench from both sides, I don't have the space to do that, but you might want to consider it, since you do have the room.
  23. 1 point
    I used 5 mm dominos with 3/4 ply for years. Then I finally got a 6 mm bit for a certain job. The 6 mm tenons come longer than the 5 mm ones do. Also 3/4" ply is actually very close to 18mm in the real world so a 6mm tenon is 1/3rd of the thickness. I get a little bit stronger /stiffer joints using the 6mm ones. I use 5mm tenons with 5/8" Baltic Birch for my basic drawers. It's actually just under 15mm thick usually. The "Domiplate" by Seneca centers perfectly on 3/4" and 1/2" plywoods ( it has 2 sides set up for the purpose) . I made a shim out of scrap plastic laminate pieces that centers the bit on the 5/8" Baltic. You have to make shallower mortices when you cut into the face of ply then make the cut in the edges deeper to fit the length of the Dominos you are using. I always have my metric Paolini Pocket rule (Woodpeckers) handy when I'm laying out for dominos.
  24. 1 point
    I'm thinking that instead, I'll just bring it in and put it in place without telling anyone - a stealth coffee table delivery. They don't know I'm building it, just that I took the piece of wood. I'll transport it in pieces, though.
  25. 1 point
    When it's all done tell your partners, you built it, now they have to come over and take it to the office.
  26. 1 point
    Where ya gonna get 10 or 12 more pieces like that!
  27. 1 point
    Welcome to the forums. Dave's right, if you don't post pictures of your projects we have no reason to believe it happened.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Use some contact cement and glue some leather pieces on them, It'll hold better and not mar your work piece.
  30. 1 point
    We are at the stage where the base - rail with tapered and splayed legs - is to be done next. This is the photo of the model ... I like this base, and have chosen to replicate it. The two relevant items are the angle of the splay (which I estimated as 10 degrees), and the positioning of the ends of the legs (these appear to end in line with the carcase). I get my Jarrah these days from an urban salvage yard, but some of it is ex-roofing beams, like this ... It is a wonderful moment when it comes out the other end ... I planed up a couple of these to find 4 blanks that would make the legs. Each is 450mm long. The legs will taper in the round from 40mm at the top to 25mm at the bottom. The mortices were marked out ... ... and routed out (I have a great jig for this - just made for hard, hard woods) .. .. leaving ... The ends of the mortices are squared up ... .. and then onto the lathe ... A little tinted epoxy is needed to repair some of the resin holes ... Next step is to determine the length of the rails. This is a no-math process that simply involves laying out the parts, with the legs at 10 degrees ... Sawing the tenons is easy enough. The rails are 19mm (3/4") and the tenon/mortice is 1/4" wide .. The tenon shoulder needs to be fitted flush with the leg ... The easiest way is to use blue tape to mark the shoulders ... The shoulder of the mortice is levelled with a chisel and rasp .. ... until each is a good fit .. Finally, the glue up begins ... I pulled off the clamps a short while ago ... I'll clean it up in the morning. Regards from Perth Derek
  31. 1 point
    That stuff would make a woodworker slap his mama!
  32. 1 point
    I never use them. I just hit a pencil line and use the medium width on one side to give some side to side slack.
  33. 1 point
    Here’s some with a little character.
  34. 1 point
    If you don't want to spend for the Dewalt 735 the 734 is a decent plainer.
  35. 1 point
    Most of us will reccomend the DeWalt 735. It's a 13" planer and you can pick them up for $500 up to $800 with spiral heads. If you go with the lower end, just a note that the DeWalt blades for it, are a tad inferior. When they wear out go to Infinity.com and get their high speed blades they last 5 times longer and can be rehoned several times.
  36. 1 point
    Flip the tops every day or so while they sit on the bases, maybe add some weight on top. If they flatten out start finishing and treat both sides identically, every coat, stain, etc equal on both sides. The tops will need to be mounted using z clips or furniture buttons to allow expansion and contraction in reaction to seasonal humidity & temperature. If one side or the other absorbs moisture from the air or dries out faster than the other side the top will cup or bow. So when you get it even seal it up with the finish.
  37. 1 point
    Latest thinking has it that orienting the boards with the end grain alternating up & down doesn't really make a difference. Sometimes it just happens. Once the finish is on the moisture changes in the wood will be less drastic & more even. Were those tops, by any chance, laying down flat on another surface, or did you have them stickered?
  38. 1 point
    Resident stoner with my own indoor herb garden. Do you have the lights on a timer/switch, or always on? If not planning to have them turn off, you should grow a solid root system on each mother plant under minimum 18/6. Root growth is mostly done during the darkness hours. If you're interested, I can show you pics of plants hydroponically grown at 24/0 until flipping to flower. The Roots are maybe 1/5th in thickness and length.
  39. 1 point
    My wife and daughter both love them. The root just sits in the hole. Watering is done with a mister (spray bottle). I also made two versions using wood and coat hangers.
  40. 1 point
    Christmas was yesterday at our house, the kids chipped in and got me this, I always wanted this set but I’m too cheap
  41. 1 point
    A few progress shots. The main focus is to complete the carcase. However, to do the carcase, it is important to plan ahead for the drawer case. The drawer case (at 10mm) is half the thickness of the carcase (20mm). The (eventual) drawer fronts (one for each side) will be the same Fiddleback Jarrah as the top and sides, and will be inset (rather than lipped). The purpose of the thinner sides is simply aesthetic - I want it to look lighter, to subtly separate it from the carcase. The drawer front will be the same thickness as the carcase, and the drawer sides the same thickness as the drawer case. Before beginning on dovetailing the ends, stopped dados were marked out for the drawer case. The lower- and upper panels were clamped together and a MDF template of the drawer case set in position... Marked out, chisel walls made ... ... to guide the saw cut ... Then chiseled .. ... and routered out ... Following the method outlined previously, the two ends and the top were joined with mitred through dovetails ... One edge ... .. and the other side ... The plan now is to size the drawer case sides before dovetailing and joining the lower panel. Why the templates and sizing at this stage? When the two ends of the lower panel have been dovetailed, the two sides of the drawer case must be fitted before the panel can be attached. In other words, these three pieces are fitted together at the same time. Now, as the sides of the drawer case run in a stopped dado, they need to be sized beforehand. This fitting is different and far more exacting that in the typical carcase which as a stopped dado on one side only, and the dividing panels (which I term the drawer case) are slid in, allowing one to mark where the front rebates will go. In the present build, the front and rear rebates need to be determined beforehand, and cut before the parts are brought together. The MDF template is to aid in measuring up the sides for the drawer case. This is one of the (number of) surprises of this build: it looks so simple from the outside, but when it comes to constructing ... In the photo below, the dados are checked for size with a 10mm wide template ... An MDF template checks the case sides are parallel ... At the far end is another MDF template to size the drawer case sides ... That's it for now. Regards from Perth Derek
  42. 1 point
    This project originated as a desire to fill a need in our first floor bathroom. The room has a small stand-up shower and a decorative sink, but has no built in storage space, aside from a medicine cabinet mirror. It serves as our primarily guest/powder room. There is not a lot of space, but I wanted some place to store extra TP and odds and ends. As usual, I decided to try something I'd never really done before, which in this case was some decorative inlay work. I built the cabinet out of cherry and used walnut and maple for the inlay work, to get some contrasting colors. It is not very deep, specifically because I didn't want it to intrude significantly into the space in front of the sink, but it gets the job done.
  43. 1 point
    There's a new reindeer sheriff in town. I intended to keep the square cross section in the neck, having it twist to the 45 degree angle of the head, but I didn't cut enough of the upper block at the 45 degree angle and the neck didn't align perfectly so I had to settle for a round neck. Maybe next time. A little look at the process below. Basically just make the block over-sized and then cut out the rectangular block that the head is within and then cut the head out of that block as you normally would, with some scrap blocks under it to give clearance for the body. There's only two 45 degree cuts required in establishing that block. Getting the neck to align is the tricky part. I modeled it in Sketchup where I could twist the head around and see how big the starting block needed to be and where that upper block intersected with the edges of it so I could find it within the starting block. Hopefully video tomorrow...
  44. 1 point
    I've learned that having an extra hinge, baseplate, knob , pull etc is cheap insurance especially considering a missed deadline or extra freight. If it is unused I just put it in a bag and tape it inside somewhere.
  45. 1 point
    In this project I design and build a bench incorporating Japanese style architecture, as well as in lay some bow ties/butterflies along a crack I carve as a decorative feature. Depending on how you argue the semantics of what joinery is, their are 5 or 6 different types of joinery in this project. Used a dado blade to cut the bridle joints on the tablesaw I tried to find piece of walnut that had grain flowing in the direction of the decorative arch Hollow mortiser left the walls of the mortise rough so I cleaned them up with a chisel Angled tenons to match the taper on the legs. cut with a combination of dado blade and a Japanese handsaw Hand chopped with chisel and mallet planed flush
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    This one was a replica of TSN's Sportcenter desk made for the Hockey Hall Of Fame in Toronto The second batch was a Feature Wall made for outside the Toronto Maple Leafs' dressing room The last batch is just a few cutting boards I've done to use up scraps
  48. 1 point
    Here's a few more project 1. "David Bowie is..." travelling exhibit done for the Art Gallery of Ontario. 2. World of Hockey exhibit for the Hockey Hall of Fame..lots of metal and glass in this one. 3. Blue Whale exhibit for the Royal Ontario Museum. A whale washed up off the coast of Newfoundland a few years back. The skeliton was preserved and put on display. The smart car is there to represent the actual size of the heart. .
  49. 1 point
    Summer greeting from Tokyo, Japan This summer in Tokyo is of terribly hot. Someday was over 40 degrees Celsius. The western part of Japan was attacked by heavy rain. It is miserable! Anyway, please look and have fun my new works. Thank you, Yoshii Please click on the displayed video to start. My YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/myoshiiky One of old works: My YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/myoshiiky
  50. 1 point
    Not really a journal or a new project.. More just a look at some of my older projects and how they're holding up today. Obviously, there were a lot of commissioned pieces that I didn't have access to. If those commissioned pieces are doing as well as these then, life is pretty good!