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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I religiously unplug my saw each time I change the blade and when opening the cabinet to clean. However even knowing it was unplugged one day when changing the blade, me leaning over the saw table top, the remote to my dc which was attached to my front pocket, turned the dc on and I almost had an accident of another kind!
  2. 4 points
    Why can't you just nail it right to that tree?
  3. 4 points
    Frank things are coming along nicely! However that's a palace through the eyes of 10x18.
  4. 4 points
    Time for an update... I finally got a new bandsaw, which makes life a bit easier: This allowed me to cut my leg blanks down to a reasonable size: As far as actual work on the bench, I got the slab tenon and cavity finished. They came out ok, but when I was just touching up the cavity, I got careless with my router and took out a pretty good gouge out of the the front slab. Luckily it is on the bottom, so although it will bother me to know it is there, it won't be seen, and will have no functional effect: Today, I got going on the end cap, got it fitted to the slab, and I will continue work on it over the next few days. I picked up the end vise just before Christmas, so I hope to have the whole front slab completed in the next week or so. I had a few issues getting a good fit of the end cap onto the slab, but a bit of fiddling with a block plane and chisel, and it is looking pretty good.
  5. 3 points
    I object to this qualifying as a little shop, and “crappy” is suspect as well.
  6. 3 points
    With my bad eyesight, I like the feel of the detents/notches on the Incra!
  7. 2 points
    I don't have a Ruobo, and at my age a lifetime bench is two saw horses and a sheet of 3/4 ply. That said, for the last few years here, ruobo's have been built as thin as 3 1/2" and no one seems to be having a problem with them. My only take is that if you take them down to whatever thinness you want. Remove the waste equally from both sides, and do them at the same time. Don't allow one side to remain un trimmed for any length of time. You want any expansion or contraction to proceed equally to both sides. Just my 76 year old opinion.
  8. 2 points
    The response seems reasonable. They just want to know if there was actually any damage because you did not state that there was.
  9. 2 points
    Haha, I titled this somewhat in jest...or maybe it was after looking at some awesome shops. It's smaller than it seems in the diagram, especially when mid-project and messy. It's coming along though, and I'm thankful for what I have.
  10. 2 points
    I have no clue...so here is the google answer: "Epiphytes called Tillandsia or Air Plants are one of these plant families that have found a unique niche that allows them to thrive in harsh environments. Epiphytes are plants that grow or attach themselves on other plants for support. The difference is that air plants don't need soil to grow. In an air plant, roots act as anchors, securing plants to their supports. Leaves handle the job of absorbing moisture. Each leaf on an air plant is covered in specialized scales known as trichomes, which have the ability to absorb water and nutrients." Thank you!
  11. 2 points
    I have had mine for about 3 years now (I think) and prior to that I had a PM66 (12 years) and a Ridgid (8 years). If you were to bypass the safety feature on every single cut this is still an awesome saw. Awesome dead on fence, unbelievably quiet, best table saw dust collection I have seen, best blade removal mechanism, amazing mobile base, best manual of any tool I have ever purchase bar none. I hope I never need the safety feature but glad its there, when in doubt there are ways to test your material without firing a blade into it. Like with any new tool it takes time to get used to it but the only regret I have is that I didn't go with an industrial unit becuase the table on my PCS is smaller than the PM66 I had prior so that took some getting used to. That's my 60 second review carry on
  12. 1 point
    Been building this for my 3 and 5 year old boys. As always, what started out as a ‘throw together’, got carried away...but it’ll survive a nuclear blast. The design is mostly from Chris Schwartz’s 18th century (Roubo) bench, but I skipped the sliding dovetail tenon/through tenon combo joinery on the legs. Went with through-tenons only, but upgraded to from 2 to 4 shoulders on each. Cut all the junk out of some 2x12 SYP that I’ve been stockpiling. Milled the clearest pieces 3 inches wide for the top and ‘face glued them’. I glued up the top 4 boards at a time , then glued my theee 4-board laminations together. Remembered (too late) when i was gluing the top together that the truley quartersawn boards left me with ugly face grain on the bench top. Sandwiching those pieces between the riftsawn boards (with straight grain all around) was a pleasing design modification, as it gives the look of one big flatsawn 3”’ slab. Other bonehead move was drilling my 3/4” dog holes a half inch from the front. No idea what I was thinking when i did that. Wound up just ripping that whole bit off after the glue-up. Used a dado stack for my leg tenons. Made them exactly 1” wide (tried to anyway) so I could use my 1” chisel on the (3” deep) mortises without ever having to really turn my chisel parallel the the long walls of mortise. 2 tenons were a perfect fit, one needs some plane work, and the other was too thin, which a piece of glued-on veneer rightly fixed. More to follow.
  13. 1 point
    I'm on your side Vinny. It seems sloppy that they package it in a way where you have to go through to make sure that no threads are damaged or finish is marred. I do understand the other side as well so just give them some reason like damaged parts or nicked finish. I get how you don't want to be their QA agent after all that's not what you signed up for. The question on my mind is why did they ship it box inside of box. Also why don't they just make their box more sturdy so they don't need to double box it. Seems like it'd save them money on packaging. I have benchcrafted site up now and i really want to buy the hardware for a roubo.... maybe I'll hold off a bit.
  14. 1 point
    Agree with the last two comments - their response is appropriate as you reported poor packaging (and I agree with that) but did not state any actual damage that required a replacement. As long as all the hardware is there, despite it having spilled, again does not warrant replacement. I understand that you might have concerns that it was damaged or affected in shipping but neither in your post to us nor your message to BC did you report any.
  15. 1 point
    I'm not a sawstop user so I'm coming out of leftfield - from what I'm seeing in the pics, would you be able to rotate the base 180 so the wheels that stick out the back are sticking out the front instead? I'm not sure I'm seeing it correctly but it looks like the wheels on the other side of the base go out to the side ... I'm not liking this wind either ... the cold I can deal with. These wild swings in temp are a pain however. I have a horse that I like to blanket if we get into single digits but when the single digits don't last more than a day it's not worth the extra effort.
  16. 1 point
    I have also had positive interaction with the Lee Valley customer service department in the past but wanted to share my most recent exchange. About three years ago I was working on a project that required odd or in-between sized brad point bits that I did not own at the time. I decided that I might as well purchase a nice set that would last me a long time as a hobbyist and the Veritas 28 piece HSS set fit the bill so I went with them. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago and a project called for a size from the set that I had not yet used. This is when I noticed that I had received two duplicate sizes within the set. Obviously, I should have checked each bit when I received the set but have never had this issue before and hindsight is always 20/20. I sent an email to Lee Valley customer service on New Year’s Day and received a response first thing January 2nd. The response included an apology and that they would be shipping me the two correct sizes at no charge. They also asked that I keep the two incorrect sizes. The new bits arrived a couple days ago as promised. I understand it’s only about $15 worth of tooling but even the little things can keep customers happy. The Lee Valley free shipping promotions have cost me a good chunk of change over the years but I will continue doing business with them because they have always been a pleasure to deal with.
  17. 1 point
    I'll get the cars out of the garage shop some time in the next couple of days & get some pics. I don't have any design drawings cause this was just a seat-of-the-pants build. I'll probably start a new thread just to avoid clogging up this one.
  18. 1 point
    I can't remember if I bought a second flip stop for my Osborne EB3 or if it came with it but it's been very useful.
  19. 1 point
    If a small trim router is big enough for your needs the Dewalt that comes with a fixed and plunge base is a powerful and sturdy tool. I've got 2 of them and they are under fairly constant use in my cabinet shop.
  20. 1 point
    I removed the toothed rails from my Incra extrusion BUT, I added some blue stuff !!!! My reason is that I need many things in my small shop to do double duty. I use these Rockler stops on the drill press and the router table so I just adapted the Incra to my needs. I also added the little sacrificial "flag" which slips into the extrusion and is held by a screw through a convenient hole that was already there. I replace these as required and have them for various cuts, bevel and miter positions. Sorry . . . more blue stuff.
  21. 1 point
    If your going to do mortises at all id go with a plunge router. They make kits that have both bases and the ability to swap between them for not much more than buying just one or the other. Also the bases are more expensive bought separately.
  22. 1 point
    Norm had the Osborne, iirc. You could buy the incra (my current miter gauge) and remove the racks... Or go whole hog and buy the incra table saw fence too I think the Ozzie is on Amazon for reasonable... About the price of the blue one or incra.
  23. 1 point
    Another vote for the Osbourne EB3. I replaced my Incra and never regretted the decision.
  24. 1 point
    FYI - click on the user's name or picture, then to the right of their user name at the top, there is a button for "message." Alternatively, you can click on the little envelope at the top right of the any WTO page (just to the left of your user name) and click "Compose New" and then type in the user.
  25. 1 point
    +1 for the Osbourne EB3. Love mine.
  26. 1 point
    Wow! I've had good experiences with BC so, this surprises me. I don't blame you! I wouldn't be happy either!
  27. 1 point
    That's awesome! Not all of us have dream shops so, it's very important to do the best we can with what we have and be happy with it. I'm blessed to be in a very nice space now but, have been in smaller shops and was very happy with them because I made them work for me. I really like your space and what you've done with it! You should be proud of your shop!
  28. 1 point
    If the detent tracks (is there a name for these?) on the Incra are the only thing you didn't like about it, I'd suggest the Incra. The tracks on the Incra are just held on with some screws. It should be pretty easy to replace those with some other strip of plastic or wood. I have a 1000HD and the detents do annoy me sometimes, but the other times I like them, so I haven't tried to swap mine out yet.
  29. 1 point
    Could you sell the ICS mobile and buy a PCS base?
  30. 1 point
    I've been real happy with my Osborne EB3 triangle braced miter gauge.
  31. 1 point
    It's the larger box on the top left of the diagram. Now it is pushed five or six feet further "north," but the layout is still basically the same.
  32. 1 point
    Bowl #17. I have titled it Half Moon. I finished this just before Christmas, but I didn't get around to setting up the photo booth for some pictures until this weekend. My lovely wife complimented it many times while I was making it, so when these had exceeded spousal duty I decided I'd better make it a gift to her for Christmas. I think it came off rather well, too. Similar process to those I've done before, but variation on the shape, it has a lot of intriguing perspectives when I started photographing it. Hard maple with Bartley Gel Varnish. Bowl #18 is on the lathe and I hope to have that done in the next week or two.
  33. 1 point
    That is just one of the reasons I don't like their fold out outfeed table. I made my own that is fully supported by the saw & has no legs. The fact that the ICS base wheels extend so far past the saw base is what gives it that stability. I can put almost all my weight on the far end & not have the saw move. I think that outfeed table is a real turd & wasn't well thought out at all. I tripped mine at full speed & there was no drama either, just a moderate thunk & then dead silence.
  34. 1 point
    Wow, thanks Drew. I know what tonight's project is going to be.
  35. 1 point
    The cold isn't so bad but that wind is killing me. Hate to see that something so simple is causing a problem. I hope that i'm not fuling negative feelings but it's absured that this is happening the ICS base on the PCS is a VERY common setup. It seems silly that they oevrlooked this.
  36. 1 point
    Almost all of my house plants are epiphitic. They are known for tolerating loose soil and growing aerial root hairs that leave them needing very little watering in our humid summers.
  37. 1 point
    As short sited as it is, I do use my table saw like a tool including some pucker cuts. I would definitely break the bank with new blades and carriages.
  38. 1 point
    I am convinced that the shop is as much a part of the hobby as the furniture built is. The wall paint? That ship was torpedoed by the wife's Navy and no search and rescue mission has been approved, lol.
  39. 1 point
    So i didn't take pictures of the inside and the above picture doesn't really show everything so i drew up plans just for you. all of 5 min in cad. No only the front is open. I did not seal it to the floor either in hopes that the gaps would grab dust from around the outside. I should make a video of it working because it is fun to use. I installed two pieces of 1/4" ply inside to block the corners. I figured dust was probably goign to build up there so instead of letting that happen i just put baffles in. I kind of guessed on the front dimensions cause i don't remember. I do remember that i shot for having a 1.25-1.5" opening. at 13" wide a 1" opening is the same area as a 4" dc hose. I figured if i went slightly over that there would be enough velocity at the inlet to suck up anything i put in front of it. I also included my mistakes. I measured 13.5" to account for material width and then messes up centering the 4" hose connection. The image if printed at 100% on 8.5x11 1" = 3" It took me a total of 30 min to complete not including drying time on the silicone and wood glue. I made this out of old growth VG redwood.
  40. 1 point
    It is now beginning to look like something familiar .... The legs appear pretty strong and solid. No flex. Regards from Perth Derek
  41. 1 point
    My biggest 'AHA!' was realizing I could scrub the crap out of it at almost 90* to the grain. Hold the plane at a skewed angle, push across, and let the shavings fly. Do you have a reference surface to lay the 70" length on to check flatness? If not, frequent checks with a straightedge, or even sighting along the board, are highly recommended.
  42. 1 point
    Since a dining table is a rather light-weight workbench, I suggest looking into some of the Japanese styles of tools and practices. Much of their traditional woodworking methods take full advantage of bodyweight and tools that cut on the pull stroke, minimizing the need for a heavy workbench. Of course, much of that is done while sitting on the floor, not always a good proposition for some of us old, fat 'muricans ...
  43. 1 point
    Let me guess, you got your info from a DIY youtube? There's way more misinformation than information out there. As Steve said, you need to get that mess off. Polymerizing oil finishes, like boiled linseed oil, should only be used over bare wood or over previous oil coats, not over any kind of film forming finish. Even if the linseed oil eventually fully cures, it won't form a tough finish at all & it is sensitive to heat & moisture. Not a good finish for a table top. Naptha would probably be the quickest thing to use to clean the surface, but be sure to test on an inconspicuous area. If the Naptha's too harsh then try mineral spirits. Get this done sooner rather than later because the linseed oil will get harder to remove as it cures. What's the value of the table? If it has value as an antique then it's probably best to take it to a pro who can get the top looking good without ruining its value as an antique.
  44. 1 point
    Cut the stretchers and I sed the domino for the stretcher to leg joinery. The through-tenons for the legs into the top will be drawbored as well. Any excuse to use my egg beater drill. Dry fit and tight as a drum without glue or pegs. Gravity is doing most of the work here. It’s a really heavy top. Here’s a pic of it in front of my bench for sense of scale.
  45. 1 point
    Looks good so far. SYP works pretty well when it's fairly new ( year or 2 ) but as it ages it gets tough as hell.
  46. 1 point
    You can always switch to a treadle-operated table saw. I hear the flesh detection on those is pretty good.
  47. 1 point
    With the saw off but in the regular mode, if you touch the blade with your finger or a piece of metal or anything else that will trigger the system you will get an indicator light letting you know that that item will activate the system with the saw turned on. Of course this doesn't do any good if you have an item embedded in the wood that you don't know about.
  48. 1 point
    Mine was from cutting some anti-static UHMW material that I had scrounged from some electronics packaging at work. Boy, I sure saved money by scrounging that waste material didn't I !?! The moment I heard the ker-plunk I realized what I had done. Doh! When you buy a Saw Stop, you buy into the methodology of using one. If you use it like a tablesaw that does not have the flesh-sensing technology, it could get expensive. After that learning experience I now use override if I have any question about a false triggering. If I am making multiple cuts I use override to test the procedure and then run normally -or- in override as the indications dictate.
  49. 1 point
    I got sick of the bandsaw fence rail digging into my side when I walked by it, so I cut a tennis ball and capped the end. Tonight Max followed me into the shop. He sat looking at that ball for a good five minutes.
  50. 0 points
    5 years is impressive. I made it to day 2! I am really upset with Sawstop. I ordered the Professional Series table saw with the Industrial mobile base and the fold down outfeed table. That is not a winning combination. The outfeed table cannot fold flat against the saw and when it is collapsed it sits proud of the table, so you can't move the fence. Naturally I called them on this and since I bought it as part of an employee purchase program (I work for a distributer) they will not take a return of any kind. All I wanted was to exchange the industrial mobile base for the professional base. I didn't even expect a refund of the $100 price difference between the 2. I could not be more disappointed with that outcome. I told them that at the very least the person who took the order should've warned me about this combo as the CSR I spoke too said it's a known issue. And even more frustrating is that this combo could EASILY work fine with some very simple design changes.