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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Time for an update... I finally got a new bandsaw, which makes life a bit easier: This allowed me to cut my leg blanks down to a reasonable size: As far as actual work on the bench, I got the slab tenon and cavity finished. They came out ok, but when I was just touching up the cavity, I got careless with my router and took out a pretty good gouge out of the the front slab. Luckily it is on the bottom, so although it will bother me to know it is there, it won't be seen, and will have no functional effect: Today, I got going on the end cap, got it fitted to the slab, and I will continue work on it over the next few days. I picked up the end vise just before Christmas, so I hope to have the whole front slab completed in the next week or so. I had a few issues getting a good fit of the end cap onto the slab, but a bit of fiddling with a block plane and chisel, and it is looking pretty good.
  2. 3 points
    With my bad eyesight, I like the feel of the detents/notches on the Incra!
  3. 2 points
    I have no clue...so here is the google answer: "Epiphytes called Tillandsia or Air Plants are one of these plant families that have found a unique niche that allows them to thrive in harsh environments. Epiphytes are plants that grow or attach themselves on other plants for support. The difference is that air plants don't need soil to grow. In an air plant, roots act as anchors, securing plants to their supports. Leaves handle the job of absorbing moisture. Each leaf on an air plant is covered in specialized scales known as trichomes, which have the ability to absorb water and nutrients." Thank you!
  4. 2 points
    I have had mine for about 3 years now (I think) and prior to that I had a PM66 (12 years) and a Ridgid (8 years). If you were to bypass the safety feature on every single cut this is still an awesome saw. Awesome dead on fence, unbelievably quiet, best table saw dust collection I have seen, best blade removal mechanism, amazing mobile base, best manual of any tool I have ever purchase bar none. I hope I never need the safety feature but glad its there, when in doubt there are ways to test your material without firing a blade into it. Like with any new tool it takes time to get used to it but the only regret I have is that I didn't go with an industrial unit becuase the table on my PCS is smaller than the PM66 I had prior so that took some getting used to. That's my 60 second review carry on
  5. 1 point
    Been building this for my 3 and 5 year old boys. As always, what started out as a ‘throw together’, got carried away...but it’ll survive a nuclear blast. The design is mostly from Chris Schwartz’s 18th century (Roubo) bench, but I skipped the sliding dovetail tenon/through tenon combo joinery on the legs. Went with through-tenons only, but upgraded to from 2 to 4 shoulders on each. Cut all the junk out of some 2x12 SYP that I’ve been stockpiling. Milled the clearest pieces 3 inches wide for the top and ‘face glued them’. I glued up the top 4 boards at a time , then glued my theee 4-board laminations together. Remembered (too late) when i was gluing the top together that the truley quartersawn boards left me with ugly face grain on the bench top. Sandwiching those pieces between the riftsawn boards (with straight grain all around) was a pleasing design modification, as it gives the look of one big flatsawn 3”’ slab. Other bonehead move was drilling my 3/4” dog holes a half inch from the front. No idea what I was thinking when i did that. Wound up just ripping that whole bit off after the glue-up. Used a dado stack for my leg tenons. Made them exactly 1” wide (tried to anyway) so I could use my 1” chisel on the (3” deep) mortises without ever having to really turn my chisel parallel the the long walls of mortise. 2 tenons were a perfect fit, one needs some plane work, and the other was too thin, which a piece of glued-on veneer rightly fixed. More to follow.
  6. 1 point
    It's the larger box on the top left of the diagram. Now it is pushed five or six feet further "north," but the layout is still basically the same.
  7. 1 point
    Bowl #17. I have titled it Half Moon. I finished this just before Christmas, but I didn't get around to setting up the photo booth for some pictures until this weekend. My lovely wife complimented it many times while I was making it, so when these had exceeded spousal duty I decided I'd better make it a gift to her for Christmas. I think it came off rather well, too. Similar process to those I've done before, but variation on the shape, it has a lot of intriguing perspectives when I started photographing it. Hard maple with Bartley Gel Varnish. Bowl #18 is on the lathe and I hope to have that done in the next week or two.
  8. 1 point
    That is just one of the reasons I don't like their fold out outfeed table. I made my own that is fully supported by the saw & has no legs. The fact that the ICS base wheels extend so far past the saw base is what gives it that stability. I can put almost all my weight on the far end & not have the saw move. I think that outfeed table is a real turd & wasn't well thought out at all. I tripped mine at full speed & there was no drama either, just a moderate thunk & then dead silence.
  9. 1 point
    Wow, thanks Drew. I know what tonight's project is going to be.
  10. 1 point
    The cold isn't so bad but that wind is killing me. Hate to see that something so simple is causing a problem. I hope that i'm not fuling negative feelings but it's absured that this is happening the ICS base on the PCS is a VERY common setup. It seems silly that they oevrlooked this.
  11. 1 point
    Almost all of my house plants are epiphitic. They are known for tolerating loose soil and growing aerial root hairs that leave them needing very little watering in our humid summers.
  12. 1 point
    As short sited as it is, I do use my table saw like a tool including some pucker cuts. I would definitely break the bank with new blades and carriages.
  13. 1 point
    I am convinced that the shop is as much a part of the hobby as the furniture built is. The wall paint? That ship was torpedoed by the wife's Navy and no search and rescue mission has been approved, lol.
  14. 1 point
    So i didn't take pictures of the inside and the above picture doesn't really show everything so i drew up plans just for you. all of 5 min in cad. No only the front is open. I did not seal it to the floor either in hopes that the gaps would grab dust from around the outside. I should make a video of it working because it is fun to use. I installed two pieces of 1/4" ply inside to block the corners. I figured dust was probably goign to build up there so instead of letting that happen i just put baffles in. I kind of guessed on the front dimensions cause i don't remember. I do remember that i shot for having a 1.25-1.5" opening. at 13" wide a 1" opening is the same area as a 4" dc hose. I figured if i went slightly over that there would be enough velocity at the inlet to suck up anything i put in front of it. I also included my mistakes. I measured 13.5" to account for material width and then messes up centering the 4" hose connection. The image if printed at 100% on 8.5x11 1" = 3" It took me a total of 30 min to complete not including drying time on the silicone and wood glue. I made this out of old growth VG redwood.
  15. 1 point
    It is now beginning to look like something familiar .... The legs appear pretty strong and solid. No flex. Regards from Perth Derek
  16. 1 point
    My biggest 'AHA!' was realizing I could scrub the crap out of it at almost 90* to the grain. Hold the plane at a skewed angle, push across, and let the shavings fly. Do you have a reference surface to lay the 70" length on to check flatness? If not, frequent checks with a straightedge, or even sighting along the board, are highly recommended.
  17. 1 point
    Since a dining table is a rather light-weight workbench, I suggest looking into some of the Japanese styles of tools and practices. Much of their traditional woodworking methods take full advantage of bodyweight and tools that cut on the pull stroke, minimizing the need for a heavy workbench. Of course, much of that is done while sitting on the floor, not always a good proposition for some of us old, fat 'muricans ...
  18. 1 point
    Let me guess, you got your info from a DIY youtube? There's way more misinformation than information out there. As Steve said, you need to get that mess off. Polymerizing oil finishes, like boiled linseed oil, should only be used over bare wood or over previous oil coats, not over any kind of film forming finish. Even if the linseed oil eventually fully cures, it won't form a tough finish at all & it is sensitive to heat & moisture. Not a good finish for a table top. Naptha would probably be the quickest thing to use to clean the surface, but be sure to test on an inconspicuous area. If the Naptha's too harsh then try mineral spirits. Get this done sooner rather than later because the linseed oil will get harder to remove as it cures. What's the value of the table? If it has value as an antique then it's probably best to take it to a pro who can get the top looking good without ruining its value as an antique.
  19. 1 point
    Cut the stretchers and I sed the domino for the stretcher to leg joinery. The through-tenons for the legs into the top will be drawbored as well. Any excuse to use my egg beater drill. Dry fit and tight as a drum without glue or pegs. Gravity is doing most of the work here. It’s a really heavy top. Here’s a pic of it in front of my bench for sense of scale.
  20. 1 point
    Looks good so far. SYP works pretty well when it's fairly new ( year or 2 ) but as it ages it gets tough as hell.
  21. 1 point
    You can always switch to a treadle-operated table saw. I hear the flesh detection on those is pretty good.
  22. 1 point
    With the saw off but in the regular mode, if you touch the blade with your finger or a piece of metal or anything else that will trigger the system you will get an indicator light letting you know that that item will activate the system with the saw turned on. Of course this doesn't do any good if you have an item embedded in the wood that you don't know about.
  23. 1 point
    Mine was from cutting some anti-static UHMW material that I had scrounged from some electronics packaging at work. Boy, I sure saved money by scrounging that waste material didn't I !?! The moment I heard the ker-plunk I realized what I had done. Doh! When you buy a Saw Stop, you buy into the methodology of using one. If you use it like a tablesaw that does not have the flesh-sensing technology, it could get expensive. After that learning experience I now use override if I have any question about a false triggering. If I am making multiple cuts I use override to test the procedure and then run normally -or- in override as the indications dictate.
  24. 1 point
    I got sick of the bandsaw fence rail digging into my side when I walked by it, so I cut a tennis ball and capped the end. Tonight Max followed me into the shop. He sat looking at that ball for a good five minutes.
  25. 0 points
    5 years is impressive. I made it to day 2! I am really upset with Sawstop. I ordered the Professional Series table saw with the Industrial mobile base and the fold down outfeed table. That is not a winning combination. The outfeed table cannot fold flat against the saw and when it is collapsed it sits proud of the table, so you can't move the fence. Naturally I called them on this and since I bought it as part of an employee purchase program (I work for a distributer) they will not take a return of any kind. All I wanted was to exchange the industrial mobile base for the professional base. I didn't even expect a refund of the $100 price difference between the 2. I could not be more disappointed with that outcome. I told them that at the very least the person who took the order should've warned me about this combo as the CSR I spoke too said it's a known issue. And even more frustrating is that this combo could EASILY work fine with some very simple design changes.