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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/15/19 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Teaching the next generation of woodworkers to source materials, use tools and make useful things. I had some wasted space between two garage doors. We made a small shelf unit to fit between the doors. We were able to place all of my garage products on this shelf in an organized manner. She became familiar with project layout, woodworking concepts and the use of tools. No longer scarred of using machinery. So much for my "toxic masculinity".
  2. 9 points
    I want to thank everyone for their thoughts and prayers. The prayers must have worked because here I am. I am a person of faith but I was a little nervous as I have never been put under for surgery before. Never been in the hospital before. All went well according to the doctors. I didn't quite understand all the science behind it but they wanted to do the surgery as soon as possible or they would have had to what two week to let the swelling go completely down, so they did it late Friday night and then I came home Saturday afternoon. They put a plate and several screws in to fix the damage I did. The biggest problem now is that I can't put any weight on it for 6 weeks or so and I am supposed t keep it elevated most of the time, so doing the regular thing we do through out the day is the challenge. I haven't had any real pain through the whole process and have only used some Tylenol for pain since I got home and the last time I had to do that was Sunday evening. I am trying t get some pictures of the X-rays to post because I know how you all are around here, "pictures or it didn't happen".
  3. 7 points
    If those photos reveal any pocket screws, you'll never hear the end of it.
  4. 5 points
    This was the model for the coffee table my nephew chose when I offered to build them a wedding present ... Let's see how we did .... Before the coffee table was assembled from the parts, I was mindful that it would be shipped from Perth to Sydney (which is the further than New York to LA). The main concern was that the container might bounce (be dropped or be handled roughly), and the weight of the heavy Jarrah top coming down on the splayed legs might cause them severe damage. (I am not concerned about the strength of the legs for normal home use - the construction is strong. More shortly). So, I build a table out of MDF that could be placed under the coffee table, and would take all the weight ... The top and base were connected with steel angle brackets ... Part of the strength in the splayed legs comes from the corner brackets, which act to lock in the mortice-and-tenon joint by preventing movement. These steel angle brackets further lock in the base from any possible twisting. The brackets are angled to 10 degrees to match the inside of the rails ... Incidentally, the best, and cheapest, anvil is this section of steel angle, the insides of which are lines with Hard Maple scrap, and then clamped in the leg vise over a leg .... The finish for the wood - Fiddleback Jarrah for the top of the carcase and the drawer fronts, and Jarrah for the base of the carcase and base/legs - was chosen for durability. It needs to be capable of resisting water marks and heat, and still have a natural appearance - not a sit-on-top finish, such as a poly or varnish. Most oil finishes are not durable enough. What I went with in the end was Evolution (satin), a hard wax oil by Whittle. This is a floor finish, and in the examples I saw it looked more like a waxed oil finish. The reports and reviews were highly favourable. I must say, after using it, I was completely sold. It is fantastic! The surfaces were sanded to 400 grit (Abranet), and then two coats were rubbed on with a micromesh cloth, 8 hours apart. Any residue was removed immediately. There was no grain raising that I could detect, however I did rub down the first coats with 400 grit grey mesh. The drawer case was waxed (only) with Lincoln Furniture Wax. This is a shellac-based wax. The inside of the drawer was finished with Ubeaut Hard Shellac diluted 50% with methylated spirits (alcohol). All of the above are Australian products. The interior of the drawer was lined in leather, which was waxed with Renaissance Wax. This is a close up of the Evolution. It is so much nicer in the flesh. Silky ... OK, to the coffee table ... The front, with the drawer (and the agonised-over-drawer-handle-pull-whatever) .. The colour, figure, and those rounded dovetails look fantastic ... Other end ... The rear has a closed panel. At the start of the project I had planned to make the drawer run all the way through, and open from each side. On reflection, this created more problems than it was worth, and so the one side was closed in with the same panel used as a drawer front ... The Jarrah base and splayed, tapered legs ... Finally the drawer ... The drawer stop used was the same design as used in the Apothecary Chest. This is adjustable, which enable the position of the drawer front to be fine tuned ... The 10mm drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I find great for this purpose as it all comes quarter sawn. It is a moderately hard wood (by Oz standards). Plywood was used for the drawer bottom, as it was inset in grooves and covered in leather. Jarrah cove moulding was made to finish. Inside there is an inscribed brass plate for remembrance ... Thanks for all the contributions and discussion along the way. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 3 points
    If you want it to cut on the pull stroke flip it around. You can't sharpen a file that I know of but you can clean the file with a file card it's like a brush for cleaning the smutz that builds up. I just use Nicholson files you can find them anywhere HD, Ace or, Lowes I've never used another brand that I can remember if you keep them clean and keep them from clanging up against other files they should last a long time.
  6. 3 points
    I've wanted to upgrade the space around my miter saw for a while now. When i originally did the station i just threw some shelves up quick to hold stuff but it was never an efficient use of space. For my birthday 9+ months ago my mom bought me a KM-2 kerfmaster from bridge city. Months went by, i watched the company sale go through with the promise of delivering current orders by X date. No word on my KM-2. Finally i told my mom to call and inquire about the sale. Something got missed but they are awesome and had one and it was in the mail that day, to my mom ... That was October, finally around Christmas, they remembered to bring my birthday gift. Better late than never. I didn't care, I'm just glad i got one. So i decided on making the shelf around 55" tall and 38" wide with 3 shelves. This allowed for a track saw to be placed on the rack as well as a good stack of sandpaper containers with space top open them up. Now that i have this tool that makes dados really easy a case with dados seems like the perfect solution. I milled up a bunch of material and joined boards together to get 13" wide. I grabbed the K-2 and did the calibration procedure for my blade. It required a sacrifice to some god and a ritualistic dance but i just followed the instructions and it worked perfectly on my rest cut. I set the fence for the bottom of the dado for the bottom shelf. I set the KM-2 in the spot it needed to be and clamped down the stop block that goes with it. I made the bottom shoulder cut then adjusted the fence to the right to make the top of the dado cut. Both of these were done with my miter gauge to keep square to the front of the case. After i had the two cuts i used the miter gauge to hog the rest of the material out. I flipped it over and it was a perfect fit with no finesse necessary. Cut the rest of the dados joined the top and bottom with dominoes and added shellac. I think I've mentioned a couple times that the redwood i have is a thirsty bugger. This whole shelf drank up a quart of seal coat before it started to build. I didn't count coats but it was a few. I'd wipe on a heavy coat and literally would watch it sink into the wood. It looks awesome once you get a finish built. I used the junk pieces i have. I made sure to use pieces with cathedrals and defects like knots. I have quite a few boards set aside that are 8" wide and 8' long that are nothing but clear vertical strait grain.. Got some stuff loaded up. Plenty of space left. My track saws before this sat on the floor under my assembly table. I really didn't like it but it beat putting them back in the silly systainer that ALWAYS are in the way. Spacewastingtainer is what they should be called. Those Morris chair forms are annoying.... i want to burn them or something but dang i might use them some day..... Edit. Picture from a step back. Wasn't sure if i should put this in project showcase product reviews or shop. I decided that the whole thing is shop related.
  7. 2 points
    I went out to visit Spanky last monday and came home with a truck bed full of bowl turning wood with a promise of making him some nice bowls from it. Most turners know the raw wood cant be used right away but needs roughng out to get it to dry quicker. I was working on that last week, got three of the chunks rounded and cored and in the bags to dry. Had to put it on pause to work on a job for the neighbor making birthday presents for a son. I got a black walnut offcut roughed and cored out a second bowl from the inside, and got three bowls cored each from a butternut and ambrosia maple chunk. That butternut is some stringy stuff!
  8. 2 points
    The wife is just back on her feet after a broken ankle adventure. I can't stress enough to keep that sucker elevated and do all the therapy that they give to do. SWMBO recovered ahead of schedule and is walking all but normally, again, ahead of schedule. When the doctor commented on her rapid recovery she said "all I did - is do what you told me to". Lesson learned.
  9. 2 points
    Glad you are on the road to recovery! FYI- recent studies have shown that using acetaminophen (Tylenol) and ibuprofen (Advil/Motrin) together is more effective than using opioids in reducing pain.
  10. 2 points
    That goat is keeping one eye on each of them. Good goat.
  11. 2 points
    Interesting timing that you posted this today because this just happened last night:
  12. 2 points
    A couple of my kids have a little interest in woodworking, but it's my 14 YO grand daughter that has really got the bug. She's taking a construction module in school now & loves it. We've done quite a few projects together over the past couple of years. I've been teaching her how to use the machinery & last weekend she graduated to the table saw. I love it. It's real quality time.
  13. 2 points
    Been cleaning up the garage lately, getting out of a funk and back into woodworking. Do you find that you are happier when you're building and creating things? Sometimes I need to remind myself of that. Awhile back, I bought a dovetail jig from this Katz-Moses cat. Link to the jig: https://www.katzmoseswoodworking.com/new-products/ I wish that I was better at hand tools. I don't spend enough time with them and have them tuned exactly right - though I do have decent stuff. I pulled out the hand tools and the new Katz-Moses jig and started at it. I'm OK at dovetails, though I haven't done any in a couple of years. I always use a jig (thus the quotes - "hand-cut"). I have the Lee Valley (Veritas?) magnetic jig. It's OK. I had some hard maple left over from another project. Hard maple isn't very forgiving. A softer wood that compresses more is easier to work with. I needed a small shelf to place a sound bar over some electronic components in my TV cabinet. Here are the results: YouTube:
  14. 2 points
    That's awesome, 70. I've tried to get my nephew interested and even offered him a free table saw and other tools but no dice. I have no kids of my own, and my step daughter isn't interested (although she is a welder), so I'm not sure what will happen to my careful collection of tools when I leave. But I'd like to leave some knowledge and experience with a younger human in some way. Good on ya!
  15. 2 points
    No child labor laws were broken in the completion of this project.
  16. 2 points
    They are really useful if your tools leave you shop.Because they lock together they make excellent out feed support when you are setting up a shop. Also seen them used as a stand to help hang DC piping. I'm giving them a rough deal they arne't that bad.
  17. 2 points
    NIcer than anything that will ever go in my shop! I made some basement windows once out of Redwood. I had remembered reading that it "takes paint well". It gave new meaning to that phrase. I had read the same thing about Poplar, but those are two EXTREMES.
  18. 2 points
    I keep my dominoes in a systainer. I mean to each their own. Some of them like the ones for sand paper and the dominoes make sense a lot more. Even the sanders i could hear an argument for but I could probably fit a couple ETS sanders in the wasted space in the TSC 55 & TSC75 case. Also I'm lazy so after a while of storing the tools in the case lead to cases strewn about and tools sitting on work surfaces. That got old fast. I just chucked the cases in the attic of my shed to be forgotten about until .... well i hope i do just forget about them for ever.
  19. 2 points
    I read recently that having the bottom of the gullet even with the top of the board allows the teeth to have a cutting down motion instead the blade pushing forward on the board as it comes in contact with it, thus making it a safer cut.
  20. 2 points
    What is that “stuff” in the background? So you handheld the router?
  21. 2 points
    I gave up the 'bottom of the gullet' when I got a saw with a decent guard & riving knife. I honestly think the only good reason for that rule is to minimize unguarded blade exposure. Ripping thick stock goes better with the blade higher and crosscutting too, but to a lesser extent. The chances of a kickback are also higher with the blade down low. I usually have the top of the blade an inch or more above, unless it's a rare cut where the guard is removed & then I just have the teeth sticking up. Oh, and plywood sometimes cuts better with the blade low.
  22. 2 points
    Aha. Can you provide a picture of what the client has in their mind's eye? I was hard pressed to justify building this piece in solid timber already. Now I'm leaning even more towards plywood. Never mind trying to find Wenge plywood. Go with a red oak ply (open pores just like Wenge) and then ebonize it. Pocket the difference in cost and treat your wife to a nice weekend getaway.
  23. 2 points
    Well here is one of the more embarrassing posts I have ever had to write. But I need to write it. I took the outfeed table off this weekend. I played around with flipping the clamps that attach it to the rear fence rail. I also pulled the faces off of the fence and worked on adjusting the fence. I cant say exactly what changed, but when I reassembled the problem with the fence tubes being proud of the table wasn't happening any longer (I did have to remove the plastic caps that cap the end of the tubes.) So I probably should have waited before taking this problem onto this forum. The table still doesn't collapse all the way, and it never will, without making some adjustments (IE cutting some of the tubes and remounting them). I am not planning to do that as the real problem I was facing was not being able to use the saw without setting up the outfeed table. So, in sum, one of the many adjustments I made must have cleared the issue, and I feel foolish for having posted this issue before really making a serious run at correcting it.
  24. 2 points
    Does it make a curvy board strait? I'm probably alone on this but stuff that spins in a circle vibrates.... just like concrete cracks .... and death and taxes. If it doens't make a curvy board strait then there is cause for concern.
  25. 1 point
    And for my next trick I'm going to saw my sister in half!
  26. 1 point
    You think your hands are critical, but it's amazing how much you use your feet. I broke my right foot years ago and was on crutches just for a couple of weeks, but it was a super PITA. In those days my wife left for work before me. There was no way to carry a plate or a cup of coffee to the table so I used to pull a chair over to the dishwasher and have breakfast on the dishwasher door. Then there was learning to drive left footed. And stairs, forget about 'em. After falling twice in the first four tries I would just sit on the steps and slide down on my butt.
  27. 1 point
    I have a couple of extra dollars every now and then, and I like supporting people like Spagnuolo or Katz-Moses. I like that they're here and that they're continuing to support a craft that I love. We live in a mass produced world and these people are keeping the flame light. This jig just so happened to work extremely well.
  28. 1 point
    @applejackson I'm very glad this issue had a fix that didn't involve a hack saw. And good on you for owning up to a mistake. Not sure what kind of a stink you might have made with SawStop customer service, but letting them know the problem has been solved would be beneficial, too.
  29. 1 point
    Haha there are torque wrenches that yell at you? C'mon is that really necessary or just amusing? I could see a Fluke meter yelling at me when I had my head under an instrument panel with both hands holding test leads while upside down on my back, checking for continuity, but a torque wrench? Should it report to your smart phone? I'm feeling old. I think I'll go outside and randomly yell "Get off my lawn!"
  30. 1 point
    Thank you. I suppose that your friend is a nice guy, eh?
  31. 1 point
    Different blades will need different treatment. Combo blades like the Freud Diablo will work just about any height you care to set it. The 60 or more tooth crosscut blade seems to like the gullet rule, but the 40 tooth blade I got with my saw feels better about half gullet height. I'm a fan of combo blades, but have various blades that are supposed to do certain cuts very well, like crosscut vs rip. Most of the time I have a combo blade mounted. Watch your cuts with the material you use the most and go with that for your technique and équipent. If you change from your usual oak, for example, to hard maple or wenge, watch for differences in performance in your setup. It probably won't take a lot of adjustment, but there's always fine-tuning to do in this work.
  32. 1 point
    I used to bring the blade up a little over the work piece but noticed that I didn't like the upward pressure from the blade so I started raising to about the gullet depth.
  33. 1 point
    Here was my shot at "hand cut" dovetails. Just ignore that stuff in the background...... I think yours look great and if the method works use it. Those are truly hand cut, using a guide is just part of it. Mine are not.
  34. 1 point
    My old saw has no riving knife or splitter. I feel safest doing rip cuts with the teeth barely clearing the work, and I use a heavy push-pad with a sacrificial sole. Push it right over the blade as needed to keep everything where it ought to be.
  35. 1 point
    He's home as far as I know. I'm sure he's show up here as he feels a bit better.
  36. 1 point
    Technology is great but for cars, stereos and bandsaws I'll take raw horsepower any day. That being said, I have a 10" saw for lighter work and it is 1/3 HP and does fine in up to 3/4" material. It does fine up to 4" material if you have some patience. To qualify that, I do not hesitate to use it on 1-1/2" to 2" material as a matter of course. This little saw let's me keep a resaw blade on my 17" machine most of the time. I would not want it to be my only saw. If my 17", 2HP machine had 4 or 5 HP it would not hurt my feelings one bit.
  37. 1 point
    looks great Drew, shop that's organized means more work gets done faster and more efficiently.
  38. 1 point
    HP is not that important on a saw in that price range. It only matters for resawing speed, and it's not going to be fast anyway with a small saw. I'd decide between the Rikon 10-326 and the Laguna 1412. They're often on sale in your price range, with no upgrades needed, and far superior to anything that can be done to the PC. an example: https://www.piperdeals.com/products/rikon-10-326-230-volt-14-inch-175-hp-heavy-duty-cast-iron-deluxe-bandsaw?gclid=Cj0KCQiAg_HhBRDNARIsAGHLV52YLoxWsg5Sbqf-XlDEjFBH0_K27fEAMttmYteKWGcj2nwHP8RAh-waAjDfEALw_wcB
  39. 1 point
    I'm guessing it'll be the most common response but I was also taught the "bottom of the gullet" rule. Can't even remember when or where, it's just what I've done for nearly 40 years. Like Richard, there are some exceptions in which I raise the blade higher but it always gives me the willies.
  40. 1 point
    Thanks Alan, I will definitely check them out!
  41. 1 point
    I generally use a half a tooth above the top of the piece I'm cutting, or just enough so it cuts away the loose frays it would leave behind if you just barely cleared the top of the piece. With one exception. If I'm going to cut to a stop line. I raise the blade as high as it will go, thereby giving me less waste to remove when I flip it over.
  42. 1 point
    Like the piece is amazing but the finishing touches on the drawer take this from amazing to one step above that. I think the designer of the coffee table you used for inspiration would be jealous.
  43. 1 point
    For the tilt slot, rather than using blue tape I've got a sheet magnet over it. They sell cheap ones at the hardware store that are meant to cover unused heat registers. They're the perfect size to cover the front slot, and it's a lot less work to remove it and put it back. I stuffed foam backer rod in between the top and the sides, which helped a lot with the leaks.
  44. 1 point
    Got the old chainsaw out and milled 4 cherry logs, all logs around 6 ft long, about 14-16" diameter. Not the biggest logs but I see some chairs in the pile. Took me 2 hrs to mill 4 logs, I'll take that pace and it was a great day in the outdoors.
  45. 1 point
    I picked this up yesterday at Rocklers. Looking forward to many hours of reading, something I don’t do enough of. Thanks @collinb
  46. 1 point
    I built a casket in mine. Took up to much room and to much of my life. A boat would be easy.
  47. 1 point
    Wish you guys would quit doing this. Every time this happens, Amazon charges against my card! But, never been disappointed yet!
  48. 1 point
    Extend a floor sweep to come through the toe kick of a base cabinet . That should reduce the " stacking things in front of " issue.
  49. 1 point
    Wow, I've been slacking. No tip since June!?! I imagine we've all been working on something where a bit of "handling damage" occurs in the worst spot. I knocked this little corner off and of course it would be right where two parts butt up to each other in what should be a tight seam. If you are lucky enough to find the wandering bit of material, use a length of clear scotch tape to pick it up. Use a nice long piece, tape doesn't cost much and this gives you adequate "handles" to hang on to. You can see through the tape so that you land the repair right on target. You can see that I actually missed a bit in this demo shot. The tape makes it easy to practice your landing. Add a drop of CA, zero in and land the piece, use the tape to hold it still and in a few moments you have your nice crisp corner back. I did touch up a little CA squeeze/stain with some very fine sandpaper.
  50. 1 point
    I was able to get a fridge with the refrigerant evacuated from a local appliance repair shop for free. Installed a 50W bulb & wired it to an old thermostat, seems to work great.