Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/28/19 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Some final photos of the Thing: The doors don't close firmly because of the SOSS hinges (I don't recommend them) so I will probably add some magnets, but that shouldn't change the appearance much.
  2. 3 points
    Got the tail vice installed today. Router walked a little on me, but I got her back in line. Took a video of the movement but can’t post it. I consider this a milestone. Hoping to keep the wind in my sails now that I have started back on this project.
  3. 2 points
    Completed the installation of the bunk beds over the weekend! I think they turned out pretty good. Very solid, as expected. There are a few flaws, but nothing that others have noticed. Well I take that back my wife actually pointed out to me that the posts on the bottom bunk headboard you can see that it is a glue up, since one board was light and one darker on both posts, so I should have put the 2 darker ones together etc. I think the kids like it, and hopefully it lasts until their kids can use them someday.
  4. 2 points
    I've seen a couple HDs that have walnut and maple. Their prices are crazy expensive! Check out Bell Forest and order some lumber for your board. Agree with the above that you shouldn't us stains or dyes on a cutting board. Finish is pretty easy.. I like General Finishes salad bowl finish for mine but, mineral oil will work fine as well. Safety Reminder: Don't put end grain (if that's what you're doing) boards through the planer. Good luck!
  5. 2 points
    Normally there's not much in the way of choice at the orange place. They might have Oak and Maple, and that's about as close to contrast you're likely to get there. The finish for cutting boards is varied, but generally Mineral oil is your best bet. D's right about oak, unless they have white oak. Maple, Cherry, and walnut is not likely to be found there, but you can give it a try. Or contact a lumber yard and ask. Most will mill it for you at another cost. But you're going to have a lot of excess wood for other projects.
  6. 2 points
    Choose a closed grain hardwood that's hard. Not oak, especially red oak, which has large, deep pores that will fill with gunk. I would just use mineral oil for finish. Flood it on, let it soak in, then wipe off the excess. Repeat every 6 months or so.
  7. 2 points
    Sooooo many hours, so much awesome.
  8. 2 points
    I just load Coop’s lumber on the family trucking co. AAA Cooper.......
  9. 2 points
    Yeah it is. 11 hours, that's a shame, but it is one helluva a nice ride if you have the time . 3 Mountain passes, ain't nothing if you know how to handle them. Winter on those could be a PITA though. Has been for a lot of folks. especially heavy trucks. Having spent most of my adulthood driving coast to coast, 11 hours ain't that much to me. And in some ways I kinda miss it, and no, I won't come get it for you.
  10. 2 points
    Absolutely nothing. There is no contact with the upforce, the equivalent of the danger on a table saw. Maybe short stock introduces some tip out concern?
  11. 1 point
    I've been biting my tongue on this one, but here goes. You didn't ask for critique, but I'me gonna offer some anyway. The piece has a nice look with the paint & clear finishes, but the wedges & tenons are way out of proportion to the rest of it. They are just, no other way to put it, but huge! If you cut at least half the length of both it would be a big improvement & would literally take less than 1/2 hour. Rounding the tenons as @gee-dub suggests is a good idea, but would take time you don't want to take. And that's fair. Please don't take this as a put down, just trying to help out & hope that you, or others would do the same for me. Edit: I just had a look at Anne's version. Notice how her tenons are more in scale with the shelf she made? Her tenons are also a lot narrower, but that isn't something you can change at this point.
  12. 1 point
    A picture really is worth a thousand words. Personally, I would not try to apply any sort of finish over mineral oil and getting rid of the mineral oil will be a problem. Think about trying to paint a car that has motor oil splattered all over it. Mineral oil never, ever polymerizes, so it will always be oily. Repeated washings with mineral spirits followed by wiping down with naptha or acetone may get the surface free of oil long enough to apply a coat of shellac or poly. Even so, there will probably be spots that retain enough mineral oil to spoil the finish.
  13. 1 point
    Look for a local sawmill that might have some Walnut. I buy my unsteamed Walnut from a local (about 45 minute drive) and he cuts to my specs and then dries in a solar kiln. Prices are very good when buying in the rough like this. David
  14. 1 point
    Bring it... come on, I double dog dare you. We're only getting 1 to 3" of snow, that shouldn't keep huddled up in Iowa. Cluck! I'll grab you by that hairy face, and wrap you around one of Spanky's rainbow poplar logs. There!
  15. 1 point
    One could (do not misconstrue this as me saying should) just tip a contractor saw on its side and jig up a little table on linear bearings with stops to emulate that thing. Of course, this would be insane to do considering the multitude of more efficient and far less terror-inducing ways of cutting a tenon.
  16. 1 point
    +1 on Bell Forrest. I don't go there for choices near as much as I should but was plenty happy with the pricing and shipping/packing of what I have got from them.
  17. 1 point
    Bell Forrest... i always forget about them. That's an excellent idea.
  18. 1 point
    I think it should be noted that you should never stain a cutting board.... I don't know what is in those dyes or stains but i wouldn't want to eat them. Woods that i can get at my local box store that i'd use in a cutting board are walnut, yellow birch, maple, and cherry but your selection may vary. Where you live will drive the selection often. Alder may be ok but it's awfully soft and will mark up quickly from knives. You could try craig's list. I know around me there are people that sell shorts of various species. Just search materials and type in the species. I also know there is a local lumber dealer that deals specifically in shorts they buy from local cabinet shops. Also a local cabinet shop might sell you some shorts.
  19. 1 point
    This is amazing. Interesting about the SOSS hinges. Never tried them but i thought i heard good things about them.
  20. 1 point
    Absolutely beautiful Dave. Have you sent a pic or 5 to FWW? I think, they'd love to show that.
  21. 1 point
    There's a video by the Carter company, that gives a detailed explaination of how to set up your bandsaw properly. It applies to any bandsaw. I had a link, but can't find it. Follow the directions completely. There may be some parts that your small bandsaw doesn't have, but paying attention will get you fixed.
  22. 1 point
    Extremely unlikely. It would take a very high voltage spike (think lightning strike) to cause burning like that. And there would be evidence of line to line, or line to ground arc tracking. There is no chance that this happened when the machine was not running but plugged in. If it was not turned on, there is no voltage at the motor. That looks like overheating caused by a high resistance connection. Likely the screw came a little loose & things got hot. It may have been compounded by a bad winding drawing more current than it should. In any case, replacing the motor will be the fix. If the saw is otherwise good, then the cost of a motor will get you something that will sell more easily.
  23. 1 point
    How wide is the blade? Too wide and the blade binds. Another thing to check is if the tooth set on the blade has been flattened making the kerf too narrow for the blade to make its turn. Next check your guides and make sure they are set correctly for the blade, improperly set roller guides will flatten the blade. Next is the blade still sharp? A dull blade will bind in a curve because its having to work the machine harder. That not everything but should help.
  24. 1 point
    Is the drive belt tension right?
  25. 1 point
    Not enough info to diagnose really...but some of my random thoughts are blade tension, feed rate, blade sharpness, and the type of blade (number of teeth and width).
  26. 1 point
    Is there enough tension on the blade and are the blade guides setup correctly?
  27. 1 point
    Man this sucks. I hope it doesn't reflect a weakness in the machines...I leave mine plugged in all the time too. I could use the zero clearance insert if you still have it...I'll pay whatever you'd like.
  28. 1 point
    The group that RonnW running with in the pic, I would say he had to raise his hand to get to talk.
  29. 1 point
    I thought the chicken manure was so you don't lick your lips!
  30. 1 point
    What a motley crew, with a gentleman dead center.
  31. 1 point
    Un-documented photo of Dave sans beard. Last in line. Gosh, that was a good time!
  32. 1 point
    It is known as.... the AMPUTATOR I've noticed that most other countries expect product users to actually have some idea about what they are doing.
  33. 1 point
    Dave I need to see a new pic of you. I don’t think you can grow a beard like you have in a year and half. What did you shave?
  34. 1 point
    Shed the parka and move south where we could both enjoy a stoggie in a long sleeve Cartharrt! I know, ain’t no doing for some reason.
  35. 1 point
    Have you looked at the PM200 for sale in our for sale thread? It's a good looking saw and it's a ride for you. But check it out.
  36. 1 point
    Guys with no beard have their ears full of hair, and can't think or hear.
  37. 1 point
    Uh, Chestnut is all gone..... I think you mean Butternut> Jeez, you don't even know what you're buying. .....
  38. 1 point
    I think it's the sheer amount of exposed blade that gives people the heebie jeebies.
  39. 1 point
    Taping and floating use to be a challenge, then I found a guy that does that for a living, and a whole lot quicker and better than I thought I could.
  40. 1 point
    LOL....... I can’t tell if you are in or out. I don’t like to go shopping with a woman.
  41. 1 point
    This is the first I've heard of Origin, I googled, and find it to be an interesting tool, but at my age, it's out of my range. I wouldn't want to pass it on before it paid for itself.
  42. 1 point
    Yea, that's an easy answer really.. I just wanted to wait a few month to catch up after the shop build.. It also means that I can't in good faith sell the old saw per the plan. I won't take money for something that I know is broken and I had a buyer for the old saw. I've sent them a note letting them know that they're better off buying a different saw.
  43. 1 point
    I think I've been guilty of all three at one point or another in my woodworking life. I've known people who fell firmly into one camp or another, particularly the latter. Sometimes when I'm introduced to a really nice maker line I'll find myself coveting the whole line. I did that when Bridge City first came out. Today, it doesn't matter to me much. Quality, feel and performance are most important now. One of the finest craftsmen I know is a fellow instructor at SFCC - Ivan Dimitrov. If you could see his collection of carving tools you would understand why SeventyFix hit the nail on the head. Swiss Made? Check. 3 Cherries? Check. Auriou, Hirsch, Flexcut? Check, check, check. Ground down screwdrivers and files? Check. Anything that gets the job done.
  44. 1 point
    It’s been a while, but finally getting back to the Roubo. Got the front laminate strip glued up today. Have some gaps on the tails, but I can live with it. Will probably end up filling with epoxy.
  45. 1 point
    Probably not much help but i just took delivery of a Grizzly G0858 (8" Parallelogram Spiral Cutter Jointer) and the machine really doesn't vibrate much at all. My only problem was that the inserts on the spiral cutter head all needed to be removed and cleaned along with the cutter head itself. I was getting some visible lines lengthwise when jointing. After cleaning and reinstalling the inserts, it cuts VERY smooth! Vibration of the machine itself is very minimal, i'd assume yours should run the same. My old Delta 37-207 vibrated a bit but still made very clean cuts. Good luck with your new machine!
  46. 1 point
    I generally match my tools. Almost all of the tools in my shop are woodworking tools. I keep the car tools in the garage and the garden tools in the shed. It's nice to have all the matching tools together in the place they get used so i don't have to go searching for them ...
  47. 0 points
    That is an excellent question, Chet. I don't have anything specific in mind at the moment, but I'm searching for a piece that would look good with some carving. I really, really enjoy the carving process. It is meditative in nature, requires less precision that I thought it might, and is very rewarding when it's finished. I have a bunch of gouges after this project and I would like to put them to good use over and over again. One of the things I'm thinking about carving is a small wall shelf for cookbooks which could go beside the cabinets in our kitchen. Another is a few of those Kleenex box holders that are carved and pierced. I know that those don't sound all that grandiose but I'm in a position right now where I only should make stuff we truly need. I know, Kleenex box holders are not really a necessity but making stuff sort of is a therapeutic need for me. It keeps me from going nuts!
  48. 0 points
    I know and it’s getting old really fast....9 sheets of drywall hung 90 to go...