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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/31/2019 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  2. 17 points
    My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  3. 16 points
    Signed, sealed and ready for delivery.
  4. 15 points
    I made a pair of sideboards based on a piece in Good, Better, Best , Masterpiece by Albert Sacks. They are mahogany, with holly, ebony, lacewood and poplar. The finish is about 15 coats of super blonde shellac, which were rubbed out with pumice and rottenstone, and then obviously waxed. I am sorry to have to watermark the pictures, but photos of mine that have been on this forum have been used by someone who claimed my work as his own. Pictures when I am in the shots have no watermark, and I hope that the other pictures are not obstructing the view of the work. The hardbound book that I made of the project has 104 pages showing all the aspects of construction. I choose more pages to show then may be appropriate for this forum. If this is too much for the site I hope the webmaster would politely ask me to remove whatever needs to be trimmed off the post. I hope there is a way for anyone of you folks to feel that the information will assist you in your work. Any questions will be responded too, and if pictures make the explanation easier, I will post those upon request.
  5. 14 points
    I did not fully document this build but wnated to share a few pics. All solid cherry except for the back which is cherry veneer on plywood and the center the crown which is wanut veneer on plywood. New techniques and methods for this project are the crown and the base. My goal was to have the clock face appear to be floating in mid air. s0, for those of you familiar with clock mechanisms, this is a front mounted mechanism but it is mounted to a frame that is mounted to the rear of the case. Working on the crown... Case....The case is dovetailed but they are all hidden in the completed piece. oh well, it was good practice. Door Box that suports the mechanism mechanism is removable from the front (lift and pull) Pics of completed clock.......all that's left is to adjust the timing over the next few days.
  6. 14 points
    Here is bowl number 18. It's titled "Embraced"--my wife thought it up, and I thought it was a great name. I used the three sided bowl technique I previously described, then carved away two of the pillars to leave a very open view of the "outside in" surface. I was going for a suggestion of heart shape, but I love the way the two pillars rise up to the bowl. Hence the name. The wood is hard maple and the finish is polyurethane varnish.
  7. 11 points
    In self defense I normally make a batch of small items and stash them in the closet for unexpected gift requests. Due to various reasons I got caught flat-footed this holiday season when I was asked for a "quick" gift for someone who "suddenly" came up. I am going to kill off some scrap and shorts and build up a supply for all those surprises that will come up this year ;-) I gather some scrap of at least the minimum size I need. I butterfly it and flip the outside faces in in order to get continuous figure around the box. I thought I had a picture of that technique. I'll try to dig one up and post it here later. I miter all the carcass parts and rabbet them. I plane and pre-finish the inside surfaces with shellac. I have a collection of thin stock in the scrap bin from resawing things like drawer fronts. I use this as veneer on 1/4" plywood for the bottoms; ply out and veneer in, of course. As a side topic, here is my improved Rikon 10-305 fence. Simple but effective. You can see a veneered bottom in rough size at the left edge of this pic. The tops all get a centered 1-3/8" hole. This scale would change with your box size to some degree. I then use setup bars and stops at the router table to route a pair of sort of mortises to receive the pull. The hole gets a round-over treatment. This is where your pinkie go when you grab the pull. I square up the mortises with a 1/4" chisel. I use the same technique I use for G&G ebony plugs, I taper them to fit like a cork. You can see that the ends are slightly angled. I also taper the thickness a bit. This calls for a piece of melamine I keep around with some abrasives on it. You place the pull blank on the abrasive, tile the pull up about 1 degree and pull it toward yourself. I do this once or twice per side. You know when you have the right fit when the pull almost seats in the mortise. You can shorten the angled ends a bit to ease up on the right fit. Why go through all this? Same as on the square ebony plugs, the force-fit of the last 1/64" of depth make a snug fit in the mortise; no gaps. Ready for some finish. I'll be back . . .
  8. 10 points
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  9. 10 points
    A friend builds some very nice custom knives and we've been talking about a collaboration on Etsy, for him to build the knife and me to build a box. He didn't have a knife ready but I built a box anyway. And I built a knife... The box is Walnut with Figured Walnut accents and Red Palm handles, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The knife is Curly Maple, Red Palm, and Figured Walnut, finished is French polish Shellac. Enjoy! David
  10. 10 points
    I have the drawers finished and knobs installed. My plan was to work on the top this week but that isn't working out. So here are some topless pictures.
  11. 9 points
    I'm building The Wood Whisperer's Outdoor sitting Bench. I'm making it several inches shorter in length for the space I have at my front entry, and I'm doing it in Walnut. Lots of Ms&Ts
  12. 9 points
    I did up the lower section of the bench yesterday. Eight more M&Ts went pretty quickly. I tapered the back sides of the legs with a quick and dirty tapering fixture. I pillowed one of the legs and cleaned it up with hand planes to remove the saw marks. I saved the other three legs for later but still had to dry assemble the bench to see what it looks like.
  13. 9 points
    In the 18 months since my last update I've made a couple of hundred corrections / updates / additions www.hobbithouseinc.com/wood_name_database/
  14. 9 points
    I got The Why and How of Woodworking for Christmas and quickly contracted kumiko fever. I hit a brief lull between projects and realized that I hadn't made anything for my own house since 2017, which is just unacceptable. I decided to make a kumiko lamp to replace a sad little Walmart lamp my wife and I have had ever since we got married. I started by making the jigs: Two jigs with a simple screwed-in stop in the right position. Snug enough on the sides to hold the kumiko piece in place. The kumiko is primarily ash, but the thinner pieces are white oak. It just happened that way with the scrap I had. I think it looks nice. Things were going great until I got a little TOO in the groove and a piece of white oak snagged on my chisel, and the chisel jerked out of place. Had to get four stitches in my left index finger. Not actually that bad of a cut, but it was weirdly shaped and I did not want it getting infected. I've cut my fingers before, and the wounds never seem to close up right without help. So at that point I took a week off. After it healed up, I got back on it! I decided I wanted a walnut frame. I had some walnut leftovers from my last project, so I The walnut is just simple mortise-and-tenon joinery. Super simple with a dado blade and hollow-chisel mortiser. The rails have a very slight rabbet that receives the kumiko panel. Not pictured is how I added a border to the outside of the kumiko so there is a nice border of light-colored ash around the edges. The top is not going to stay like that - I'll have to make something to hold it in place. Next up is to sand the kumiko panels until they're pretty. I'm also looking forward to getting to apply the rice paper to the inside of the panels. I'm going to use a thin double-sided carpet tape between the rice paper and the kumiko. I think it'll look pretty sharp! I still want to trim the legs a bit shorter, and I still want to put some sort of curve on the legs - something kind of like what Cremona did on his son's twin-size log bed's legs, if you remember that thing. Other than that, I have got a SWEET idea for the light installation. I bought some remote-controlled RGB LED strips that I'm going to adhere to a cylinder to basically create my own intense, huge, super-bright light LED light bulb. The rice paper should diffuse it enough that it will look incredible. This thing is going to be really cool.
  15. 9 points
    Slow going with whole kitchen remodel but got the walnut top finished. Thanks for all the advice and tips. After trying various stains and dyes on some scrap and on the bottom side of this slab it was decided to use NO stain and just polyurethane. I used Arm-R-Seal gloss to build up a few coats (used cotton cut up t-shirts) and finished it off with same brand polyurethane but in satin. I did not use plywood underneath. I attached top to cabinets using perpendicular to grain slotted boards and table fasteners (sort of an L shape) so that slab can move with changes to temp/humidity. The double edge pulls of the thick slab look nicely. Thanks again.
  16. 9 points
    There is always a corner of the shop which becomes a bit of a dumping ground and where things pile up. This is the area where my sharpening stuff begins, and then deteriorates as it merges with a "cabinet" that holds supplies and a wall of screws and stuff. An old stereo hanging on the wall - a dust trap. I really hates this area. What follows is not fine furniture building! A friend gave me a bunch of veneered MDF boards ... This is what emerged after the past weekend ... Space for an old amplifier. And more storage ... That looks better ... Regards from Perth Derek
  17. 9 points
    Well ... I thought I ought to post an update on this thread ... It's not all good news ... on the move back to Canada this piece didn't fare too well for a number of reasons. First ... at some point in the move the package containing this got dropped, and three of the legs broke off, and the rest of the carcass got badly damaged. Second ... the move from a humid tropical environment with no seasons, to the bone-dry climate of Alberta (also the wood was probably just air dried) caused some serious shrinkage ... I knew there would be some, but it was seriously more than I anticipated ... my poor pegged tenons didn't manage to move enough, and so it started pulling itself apart ... revealing all kinds of design flaws. Thirdly ... the wood movement was not even, and any sapwood cupped violently (although the heartwood wasn't too bad). Fortunately there wasn't much sapwood in the project, but I had prepared a whole bunch as secondary wood to be used in the drawer construction ... seriously just firewood now. Fourthly ... the top I had fortunately built out of quartersawn boards, so it remained relatively stable, and ended up surprisingly flat ... However the shrinkage was so significant, that it just wasn't big enough any more ... so I had to rip it in half and splice in about a 3/4" strip. With all the other changes in my life ... even once I got it back into my garage ... I just kept looking at it and thinking "firewood" ... I had a real motivation problem to get enthusiastic about repairing all the damage, and getting back to finishing it all off. Well, eventually I thought I had to do something with it ... either have at it again, or chop it up and burn it ... one way or the other it had to get off my bench and stop cluttering up the garage. So I glued the legs back on, and started to think about what had to be done next. Because of my motivational issues, and all the damage (most of which I just covered up, rather than fixing properly), I was just trying to get it done not necessarily done well. So I'm afraid I wasn't documenting the rest of the build ... but slowly it began to get back into a condition that I thought could be saved ... The wood is a South American wood called "Sapan". It's quite a common wood for domestic use in Colombia, it's hard and dense, with straight grain, and very pretty when finished ... but it is a brute to work with ... it's hard on tools, it has interlocking grain making it awful to plane without tearout, and it's horribly splintery. What's more I seem to be allergic to the splinters. I covered the drawer fronts with a bubinga veneer that I had. There's two small hidden drawers inside, into one of which a printout of this thread is going. Although it is certainly not my finest work (no close up pics since I'm trying to hide damage and poor fitting joinery from excessive wood movement etc.). I knew I was pushing my limits with this one from the start, and the whole process was certainly a learning experience and has made me a better woodworker. So here it is ...
  18. 9 points
    Under the mattress is a 3/4 ply base supported with ripped 2x4s, screwed and glued for a simple frame. Didn't have to be pretty (and it isn't!), just solid. And it's heavy. So here it is in the bedroom, just last night. This started September 2017 which is a little embarrassing to say but at least the results are in and we slept off the floor!
  19. 9 points
    Thanks for all the replies. To wrap things up nice and tidy: I sent an email to this company via their website, Groff & Groff Lumber in Quarryville, describing the situation. After hitting send, I started typing the first post in this thread. Literally five minutes later, I received a reply from the company, apologizing that the board was unusable and that I should bring it back. I stopped there later that afternoon. Two guys in the yard took a break from running a monster slab through a thicknesser (i.e. stuff that actually makes them money) to help me pick out another board. One stressed how surprised he was that I found one that was honeycombed and, after we picked a board that looked promising, offered to make an initial crosscut to be sure. It came out fine and I was on my way with even more board footage than I had initially purchased. Needless to say, this far exceeded my expectations. I know I have at least one project in the works for 2019 for which the shopping list will run well over 200bf of hardwood with perhaps a few exotics thrown in. Rest assured that I'll honor these folks with my patronage again. Now to get back to that balustrade.
  20. 8 points
    2 months to get to this point. Dealing with architect and county. Rules here are very tough in Florida. Due to past hurricanes. So good rules keep home owners ins cost down. But they get carried away. Like what is the historic water flow on the property. But that time and money for nothing part is over. It gets inspected tomorrow and poured next week. The elevation wall in the pic is 12' and the other wall is 15'. One back door at the far end of the 15'. Lumber and plywood storage behind the garage door. Yard tools in the back door.
  21. 8 points
    Hi I'm new to the forum , I retired this year and I love to build toys . I build rocking toys and replica cars,trucks , tractors .
  22. 8 points
    Enough space in the new shop for an assembly table.. Torsion box top, alder base, trimmed out in walnut
  23. 8 points
    I've wanted to build one of these for some time, but didn't have a lathe. I took a turning class with the very talented Laura Yeats last fall and thought it would be a great opportunity to get it done. I worked off modified plans in Popular Woodworking, adding almost 7" to the height of Christopher Schwarz' plans. I used a bunch of mesquite offcuts from previous projects. I ordered the leather package from Texas Heritage Woodworks, Jason Thigpen. Well worth the money IMO. Superb workmanship and detail. I didn't shoot many photos along the way. It was mostly a turning project, otherwise pretty simple. It really comfy!
  24. 8 points
    Spent all day today cleaning up the drawer faces. Also had to do some final sizing. All i have left at this point is stops and figure out a device to stop the drawers from getting pulled all the way out.
  25. 8 points
    Good advice here, but I have to say - not too fond of your moniker. Probably just being sensitive.