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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/02/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Signed, sealed and ready for delivery.
  2. 4 points
    If he would have painted that beautiful piece we all would have gone to Texas and had an “intervention” to set him straight
  3. 3 points
    Thanks guys. Yeah, I was trying to match the look of the bookcase and even though they won’t live next to each other, I think the finish came out close enough.
  4. 2 points
    One recent project for me was the construction of twelve replacement organ pipes for a local church. A fun job, to be sure, but one that took over my tiny basement shop. Each pipe comprises seven individual parts and there's a bit of math involved that makes most of the parts dimensionally unique. So that's nearly a hundred non-interchangeable pieces of wood kicking around the shop before glue-up...every sodding one of them trying their best to get mislaid and out of sequence. It all turned out fine but I need a better way to keep track of projects with lots of parts. At the same time, the place where I work was getting a new kitchen. The contractors had half a dozen sheets of 5mm underlayment that they used to protect the floors and they were ready to throw it all out at the end of the job. Ever the scavenger, I grabbed them in all their floppy, potato-chippy glory and figured I'd make something out of them. I came up with the idea to make a pile of trays that can stack and be used as sorting cubbies. Each tray is 36" across, 24" deep, and 6" high. This gives six cubbies per tray and I'm making a dozen trays, so I'll be set for sorting for a long time...or at least until these break. Straight? You want things straight? These are essentially open torsion boxes; so they'll straighten themselves in the glue-up. But make no mistake, underlayment is hateful crap to work with. I routed tiny little dadoes in the base panels. This forces the vertical ribs into something resembling straight. Then there's a few strips at the top (sliced off the base after routing) to hold the tops still. I'm hard pressed to imagine using screws or pin nails with this, so it's a slow rhythm of glue, clamps, and weights for the rest of the weekend. One trick for glue up: I ripped a piece of OSB and made a platform the same as the depth of the base. This is elevated off of my bench. There's a metal ruler underneath the base panel, running down the center line. When I clamp the vertical ribs to the OSB table at the edge, this serves as a poor man's bow clamp, giving upward pressure in the middle. I've got a backlog of artwork that needs framing, so I anticipate these will come in very handy for that. Something to keep track of all the pieces a.) that come out of breaking down a large board and b.) as those pieces go through milling and joinery. I could also see these being useful in a big cabinetry project with lots of rails and stiles. And who knows? There may even be another round of organ pipes in my future.
  5. 2 points
    Ya done good for a short guy.
  6. 2 points
    What they said. Should be plenty strong enough. I built this one at least a year ago and it’s held up to the job of one monitor. It’s got about 3-4 small dominos in each join. Perfect for sliding the keyboard under.
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    In that case, I’m almost inclined to build another and paint it white, just to get some of you guys down here to share a soft drink or so!
  9. 1 point
    Almost had heart failure. Saw the first picture from Pinterest, then saw your "Here is the door without a finish" picture, and I thought you were going to paint it white! Very nice finished product - always good to score points with the DIL!
  10. 1 point
    Wow, I like it.
  11. 1 point
    Very well done Mr Cooper, everything looks right on, those woods look so good together, you aged the cherry in the sun if I remember and wasn’t there going to be an antique door knob in there somewhere or did that get dropped from the design?
  12. 1 point
    Nice work Coop!
  13. 1 point
    Wow that turned out great coop!
  14. 1 point
    Turned out awesome Coop! Much to be proud of!
  15. 1 point
    That came out nice Ken. That should go well with the Barrister Bookcase. Very well done.
  16. 1 point
    Might you be able to re-cut it a 1/4" smaller around the perimeter, re-shape and salvage it?
  17. 1 point
    Agree with "grain" being the issue. And, FWIW...a google search of "crack" and "spoon" turns up a ton of not unexpected results....
  18. 1 point
    Salt Lake Tabernacle organ. Those big gold colored pipes are actually wood.
  19. 1 point
    Link also fail for me but, there is a standard answer. 15 years ago it was "for your first router, get a plunge". Now that there are so many good combo kits around I will modify this "for your first router, get a fixed/plunge base combo. Most of these are the 2-1/4 HP tier tools. Mine are all Milwaukee but, I got them years ago and unfortunately at this point in history, one cannot be confident of the quality of a given model unless recently purchased. The quality and favorites seem to be a moving target. I tried a DeWalt kit and returned it (a dozen years ago or so) due to quality issues but, see much praise for them now. The Bosch kits have a good following and of course, my favorite, Milwaukee has a solid camp as well. Part of what makes the Milwaukee work for me is the quality build, smooth plunge, great chuck and the fact that motors and bases are interchangeable for the 5615 and 5616. I use the fixed speed 5615's in various bases for tasks that favor that motor. I just swap to a 5616 motor if I want the variable speed and more power. Speaking of variable speed; it is critical to me and of no concern to others. Confusin' ain't it? As mentioned, routers multiply so this will likely not be your last. They are a hand tool and one's favorite is often due to the feel of the tool in the hands. A tippy router is a pain in the rear. One that you feel confident in guiding will be better for you. Try to get a few in your hands at the local tool place and don't be shy about handling them, plunging, them and taking the motor in and out (another super easy feature on the Mils). Here's some of mine in different bases for different reasons.
  20. 1 point
    Is the point of the cleat hitting before the cleat seats? Cut the very end of the cleat off - that's what I do on mine to make sure it seats on the angle and not rests on the bottom of the cleat. David
  21. 1 point
    Figured maple for the leg vise chop. Normally I wouldn’t use the side with the worm stain...but pretty sure my kids will think it looks cool.
  22. 1 point
    Be very, very careful . . . you are at a critical point in your life. One false step and you could have a dozen hand planes, shaves and saws before you can stop yourself!!! To your original question, I too would go for dados.
  23. 1 point
    Yeah it is. 11 hours, that's a shame, but it is one helluva a nice ride if you have the time . 3 Mountain passes, ain't nothing if you know how to handle them. Winter on those could be a PITA though. Has been for a lot of folks. especially heavy trucks. Having spent most of my adulthood driving coast to coast, 11 hours ain't that much to me. And in some ways I kinda miss it, and no, I won't come get it for you.
  24. 1 point
    On the pin board, use either something sacrificial behind it to stop the tear out or use a board wider than you need and rip it to size after cutting the tail to remove the tear out. Make sure everything is clean of dust and chips to help eliminate the rocking.
  25. 1 point
    Time to get the base done. The kid was a little uneasy at first on the tools so, I walked him through each step and showed him and then let him take over.. We finally pick up a pretty decent rhythm by the end of the video..