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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    In self defense I normally make a batch of small items and stash them in the closet for unexpected gift requests. Due to various reasons I got caught flat-footed this holiday season when I was asked for a "quick" gift for someone who "suddenly" came up. I am going to kill off some scrap and shorts and build up a supply for all those surprises that will come up this year ;-) I gather some scrap of at least the minimum size I need. I butterfly it and flip the outside faces in in order to get continuous figure around the box. I thought I had a picture of that technique. I'll try to dig one up and post it here later. I miter all the carcass parts and rabbet them. I plane and pre-finish the inside surfaces with shellac. I have a collection of thin stock in the scrap bin from resawing things like drawer fronts. I use this as veneer on 1/4" plywood for the bottoms; ply out and veneer in, of course. As a side topic, here is my improved Rikon 10-305 fence. Simple but effective. You can see a veneered bottom in rough size at the left edge of this pic. The tops all get a centered 1-3/8" hole. This scale would change with your box size to some degree. I then use setup bars and stops at the router table to route a pair of sort of mortises to receive the pull. The hole gets a round-over treatment. This is where your pinkie go when you grab the pull. I square up the mortises with a 1/4" chisel. I use the same technique I use for G&G ebony plugs, I taper them to fit like a cork. You can see that the ends are slightly angled. I also taper the thickness a bit. This calls for a piece of melamine I keep around with some abrasives on it. You place the pull blank on the abrasive, tile the pull up about 1 degree and pull it toward yourself. I do this once or twice per side. You know when you have the right fit when the pull almost seats in the mortise. You can shorten the angled ends a bit to ease up on the right fit. Why go through all this? Same as on the square ebony plugs, the force-fit of the last 1/64" of depth make a snug fit in the mortise; no gaps. Ready for some finish. I'll be back . . .
  2. 4 points
    Dogs are done! Guess that means the tops are officially done until the final flattening. would really love to start on the base today, but I have work work to catch up on.
  3. 3 points
    I was joking..... This coming May will make 39 years for me.
  4. 3 points
    My Mother remembers crossing the Roanoke River, when it was frozen in the 1920's, with her Father on a wagon pulled by mules.
  5. 3 points
    It's the Industrial Heavy Duty Rip 24 tooth blade (FTG) that leaves the perfectly flat groove. The Glue Line Rip (TCG) does not leave a flat bottom. It has alternating teeth with the corners chamfered so it leaves the bottom of the kerf with the corners not completely cut away. So, no bat ears, but more of a rounded bottom. I have both.
  6. 2 points
    Dave I want you to see some of the best ambrosia maple, I guess I have cut and kiln dried. If we was big buddies, I would see that you would get some of my best ambrosia maple lumber.
  7. 2 points
    I have the Dewalt 735 and you don't have to jump at the helical head right out of the box. I have had good life out of my original blades. I have probably 10 to 12 major projects and the blades are still decent. When I do change I will most likely go with the blades from Infinity which can be re-sharpened. Also you have to think about how much you will be using the planner in the sense of hobbyist versus someone on youtube that is producing a lot of content and therefore using the planner a lot more then you would. Start off with the stock blades on the 735 and see how it goes, you can always change out to the helical down the road. You don't have to do it all at once and it would be wrong to not get the planner just because you think you have to change out the blades right from the get go.
  8. 2 points
    I don't see anything wrong with the delta. I used a job site saw for a long time and it did the trick for me. Unless you know you really want to go all in save the money get the detla and put the rest to some good maple or cherry or what ever wood you like and try some projects. With the lower poer saws good blades are key. Go after the Freud Industrial or Forrest blades. Make sure to get a rip blade that's a low tooth count like 20 or 24. Then a combination blade for joinery and cross cuts. If you have 2 good well taken care of blades you'll forget your saw isn't 3hp.
  9. 2 points
    I wouldn’t do anything like that.
  10. 2 points
    Running with Isaac's idea (and input from others). I think I have figured this out. Basically I drilled doweling holes in the stretchers first, then cut the angle to accommodate the leg. Here were the steps using scrap wood to test. Here is the test stretcher. The angled lined at the left shows where the board will be cut to fit against the leg. The line on the right shows how deep the dowel hole will go. Notice how much would I'm cutting on the left. That will be my "doweling jig" for the leg. Below shows the stretcher after the cut. Again notice the "waste" piece on the left that will become the jig. Holes have been drilled in the stretcher. I've placed the top dowel in and laid it over the "leg" to illustrate the angle. I then clamp the jig made from the waste cut above to drill my angled holes the the leg. Final assembly. Yes it's crooked but this test shows that it works. Pretty cool.
  11. 1 point
    Signed, sealed and ready for delivery.
  12. 1 point
    And its a pretty piece of wood!
  13. 1 point
    As there appears to be no connection of the two sides in the front, other than the top and bottom shelves, I’d be inclined to believe that the weight of the books is what makes the side to bow out. I would screw the shelves to the sides using pocket screws if you have it. If not, screw from the sides, recessing the screws and cut plugs (or dowels) to cover the screws, sand and touchup with paint.
  14. 1 point
    It's a good thing, I have a magnifying glass. Lathe Huh? That's gonna empty your wallet. Put your cash together, to buy some wood, rent a truck and as they say in fantasy land "Come on down" Spanky'd love to meet another woodworker. And you'll love his operation and his place, What a view.
  15. 1 point
    Go drop it off on Eri's front lawn.... i heard he loves red oak. I get not wanting the bench to be made from red oak. At the same time it'd be cheap and it's just a bench.... Do you have many shop pieces left to build? You could save it for other shop stuff.
  16. 1 point
    Congrats!!!!! I don't have a PM but I do wish I could get some time using one to see how good it is. Looks like a solid machine, and should be awesome to use! Congrats! I have that same saw.....
  17. 1 point
    Rick ain't no quitter. You got it right though, just took some practice.
  18. 1 point
    Great wrap Kev. Glad Collin is putting it to good use!
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Mat60 I didn’t buy it. Spanky put it there just to watch me drool like a dog.
  21. 1 point
    Went to Spankys today and this is what I saw pulling in the driveway.. 2 of my favorite woods. Walnut and Curly Maple. What a salesman!!!
  22. 1 point
    Coop it’s bad when the forum moderator starts picking on you.
  23. 1 point
    Dave check out this curly maple board that came out of the kiln this morning.
  24. 1 point
    Just my input but i don't like the reference tabs on the domino. i prefer to use pencil marks with the pieces aligned the way that i wan them and then just hit the pencil line. I always make one side on the medium setting.
  25. 1 point
    Custom fishing rods- 50% deposit and balance when ready to ship. Lowe's- pay in full when special ordering anything. Sign in country store- In God we trust; All others pay cash.