Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 14 points
    Here is bowl number 18. It's titled "Embraced"--my wife thought it up, and I thought it was a great name. I used the three sided bowl technique I previously described, then carved away two of the pillars to leave a very open view of the "outside in" surface. I was going for a suggestion of heart shape, but I love the way the two pillars rise up to the bowl. Hence the name. The wood is hard maple and the finish is polyurethane varnish.
  2. 6 points
    Spent all day today cleaning up the drawer faces. Also had to do some final sizing. All i have left at this point is stops and figure out a device to stop the drawers from getting pulled all the way out.
  3. 4 points
    This was my 2nd box I've made. Butt joints on oak and purpleheart. Sanded each to 220. Matte water poly on sides and gloss on PH.
  4. 2 points
    In self defense I normally make a batch of small items and stash them in the closet for unexpected gift requests. Due to various reasons I got caught flat-footed this holiday season when I was asked for a "quick" gift for someone who "suddenly" came up. I am going to kill off some scrap and shorts and build up a supply for all those surprises that will come up this year ;-) I gather some scrap of at least the minimum size I need. I butterfly it and flip the outside faces in in order to get continuous figure around the box. I thought I had a picture of that technique. I'll try to dig one up and post it here later. I miter all the carcass parts and rabbet them. I plane and pre-finish the inside surfaces with shellac. I have a collection of thin stock in the scrap bin from resawing things like drawer fronts. I use this as veneer on 1/4" plywood for the bottoms; ply out and veneer in, of course. As a side topic, here is my improved Rikon 10-305 fence. Simple but effective. You can see a veneered bottom in rough size at the left edge of this pic. The tops all get a centered 1-3/8" hole. This scale would change with your box size to some degree. I then use setup bars and stops at the router table to route a pair of sort of mortises to receive the pull. The hole gets a round-over treatment. This is where your pinkie go when you grab the pull. I square up the mortises with a 1/4" chisel. I use the same technique I use for G&G ebony plugs, I taper them to fit like a cork. You can see that the ends are slightly angled. I also taper the thickness a bit. This calls for a piece of melamine I keep around with some abrasives on it. You place the pull blank on the abrasive, tile the pull up about 1 degree and pull it toward yourself. I do this once or twice per side. You know when you have the right fit when the pull almost seats in the mortise. You can shorten the angled ends a bit to ease up on the right fit. Why go through all this? Same as on the square ebony plugs, the force-fit of the last 1/64" of depth make a snug fit in the mortise; no gaps. Ready for some finish. I'll be back . . .
  5. 2 points
    Looks great Mark. You should have taken that huge ambrosia maple piece.
  6. 2 points
    I have never done dadoes so I am worried I am going to screw it up. This makes a lot of sense. What would be the easiest way to make pocket screws? A jig? This seems like a better idea than mine of using 2x4's and 1x4x48 planks. I won't be able to joint and plane, only sand with an orbital. Yes I have a drill (plus kit with bits) and screwdriver. What do you mean about notches? Yes, I have about 7 clamps or so. That is a good trick as well.
  7. 2 points
    If people didn’t pick on me I would think they don’t like me, pick away Spanky
  8. 2 points
    And its a pretty piece of wood!
  9. 1 point
    Wish that were the case. Little niece and nephew over tonight and some cartoon show on tv. No dog in the hunt for super bowl. It was chestnut, right?
  10. 1 point
    He will think his ole head as big as a pumpkin in the morning.
  11. 1 point
    Expecting a visit from Drew Coop
  12. 1 point
    No wonder Boo liked you!
  13. 1 point
    Looks really great Mark.
  14. 1 point
    Wow! Mark that is really nicely done!
  15. 1 point
    If the wall is not straight, you will need to shim the wall mounted part of the cleat so that it stays straight. If after screwing it into place it ends up with a bow in it, it won't match up with the bevel on the shelf.
  16. 1 point
    Super nice work!
  17. 1 point
    The black ones are Lee Valley which are quite nice. The pot metal ones I think are woodcraft. Whatever they are they were on sale for a price that I should’ve bought a couple sets . Some pocket change for some couplers and some quarter inch threaded rod and you can get quite a lot of versatile set up’s. I’ve seen several shop made versions and they would work equally well.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks Coop. Found the "resaw for continuous grain" thing.
  19. 1 point
    As there appears to be no connection of the two sides in the front, other than the top and bottom shelves, I’d be inclined to believe that the weight of the books is what makes the side to bow out. I would screw the shelves to the sides using pocket screws if you have it. If not, screw from the sides, recessing the screws and cut plugs (or dowels) to cover the screws, sand and touchup with paint.
  20. 1 point
    I'd like to, one of these days. It's only a couple hours drive. My truck crapped out a few years ago, so I'd have to rent something so you can show me Spanky's setup and I can stock up on some good stuff. After I get finished with this lightbox table, I'm planning on building a mission style bookcase with a couple drawers, this spring. After that, I probably going down the rabbit hole. I'm pretty sure I'm getting a lathe.
  21. 1 point
    Dogs are done! Guess that means the tops are officially done until the final flattening. would really love to start on the base today, but I have work work to catch up on.
  22. 1 point
    I wouldn’t do anything like that.
  23. 1 point
    Went to Spankys today and this is what I saw pulling in the driveway.. 2 of my favorite woods. Walnut and Curly Maple. What a salesman!!!
  24. 1 point
    I don't have a Ruobo, and at my age a lifetime bench is two saw horses and a sheet of 3/4 ply. That said, for the last few years here, ruobo's have been built as thin as 3 1/2" and no one seems to be having a problem with them. My only take is that if you take them down to whatever thinness you want. Remove the waste equally from both sides, and do them at the same time. Don't allow one side to remain un trimmed for any length of time. You want any expansion or contraction to proceed equally to both sides. Just my 76 year old opinion.
  25. 1 point
    I did a search and found a few people on here did this cabinet. I love reading Krenov and really wanted to make something in his style even if he's not totally my style. Casework isn't my favorite thing either but I liked the dovetail work in this piece. Hand cutting dovetails is something I need to do more of and this project was perfect to get my dovetail fix in for the year. I changed the leg style from what Marc developed for his plan and I chose the style he based his project off of. This style is more my taste. The piece has grown on me as I built it and as I admire it in it's new home in the corner of our dining room. The wood was milled by me 2 years ago, Norway Maple and Black Walnut. The hand pull for the drawer is Pear, I scrounged up 2 small logs a few years ago, really nice wood to carve and shape. Marc's instruction for this project was fabulous and I choose to hand cut all the dovetails. Well worth the journey and now I can enjoy reading Krenov a little more.