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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/19 in Posts

  1. 14 points
    Here is bowl number 18. It's titled "Embraced"--my wife thought it up, and I thought it was a great name. I used the three sided bowl technique I previously described, then carved away two of the pillars to leave a very open view of the "outside in" surface. I was going for a suggestion of heart shape, but I love the way the two pillars rise up to the bowl. Hence the name. The wood is hard maple and the finish is polyurethane varnish.
  2. 6 points
    Spent all day today cleaning up the drawer faces. Also had to do some final sizing. All i have left at this point is stops and figure out a device to stop the drawers from getting pulled all the way out.
  3. 4 points
    This was my 2nd box I've made. Butt joints on oak and purpleheart. Sanded each to 220. Matte water poly on sides and gloss on PH.
  4. 4 points
    Piece by piece. I'll leave the nails in the boards, cutting them off on the backs of the boards. They're all hand forged, and every head indented into the wood has a unique shape, so if we back the nails out, it will be way too much trouble to try to do anything that can't be seen, to tell the difference than if it had been where it ends up, from where it came from. A lot of it will be figured out as we go along, which is pretty standard operating procedure for me. Having the plaster, and lath gone, and the house cleaned out will make a tremendous difference. We should be able to haul loads away the first day. I have to build a shed to keep, and sort it in, until it can be used. Here's a picture of the fireplace in the basement. I figure that lintel stone probably weighs 3500 pounds.
  5. 3 points
    This was a challenging one. I think because you normally see segmented bowls done on the lathe where you get the perfect circular form for free this really called for seeking perfection in the form in a way that I don't normally pursue. I got pretty close on the form. Made some stupid mistakes along the way, including dooming the whole thing by failing to thoroughly inspect the stock right at the beginning. But it was really just an experiment so I'm over it. I watched this interview with Mark Lindquist where he talks about how there's ideas about what the right way of doing things are and he doesn't see it that way. He's done stuff like texturing the outside of a bowl by intentionally having catches. So maybe my notion that the segmented bowl has to end up looking perfect isn't the right way to think about it. Maybe I could just power carve the thing and be done at that point.
  6. 3 points
  7. 2 points
    In self defense I normally make a batch of small items and stash them in the closet for unexpected gift requests. Due to various reasons I got caught flat-footed this holiday season when I was asked for a "quick" gift for someone who "suddenly" came up. I am going to kill off some scrap and shorts and build up a supply for all those surprises that will come up this year ;-) I gather some scrap of at least the minimum size I need. I butterfly it and flip the outside faces in in order to get continuous figure around the box. I thought I had a picture of that technique. I'll try to dig one up and post it here later. I miter all the carcass parts and rabbet them. I plane and pre-finish the inside surfaces with shellac. I have a collection of thin stock in the scrap bin from resawing things like drawer fronts. I use this as veneer on 1/4" plywood for the bottoms; ply out and veneer in, of course. As a side topic, here is my improved Rikon 10-305 fence. Simple but effective. You can see a veneered bottom in rough size at the left edge of this pic. The tops all get a centered 1-3/8" hole. This scale would change with your box size to some degree. I then use setup bars and stops at the router table to route a pair of sort of mortises to receive the pull. The hole gets a round-over treatment. This is where your pinkie go when you grab the pull. I square up the mortises with a 1/4" chisel. I use the same technique I use for G&G ebony plugs, I taper them to fit like a cork. You can see that the ends are slightly angled. I also taper the thickness a bit. This calls for a piece of melamine I keep around with some abrasives on it. You place the pull blank on the abrasive, tile the pull up about 1 degree and pull it toward yourself. I do this once or twice per side. You know when you have the right fit when the pull almost seats in the mortise. You can shorten the angled ends a bit to ease up on the right fit. Why go through all this? Same as on the square ebony plugs, the force-fit of the last 1/64" of depth make a snug fit in the mortise; no gaps. Ready for some finish. I'll be back . . .
  8. 2 points
    Currently in cold, snowy Berlin in Germany. Sampling their fine German Red wine, Weiss beer and Schnapps. Now contemplating the next woodworking project from the open fire in the bar. It’s a hard life but somebodies got to do it so you don’t have to.
  9. 2 points
    They are ceramic pieces I make myself, too! Pottery is another of my hobbies.
  10. 2 points
    What I'm seeing for sale on Craigslist right now isn't encouraging, but I also don't need to make a decision or purchase at this exact moment either. I see a fair amount of rusty antiques for next to nothing and then a few new-ish models where the seller is asking for 90% of what the saw costs new. I'll keep my eye on craigslist though until I get closer to making a decision.
  11. 2 points
    welcome to the forum Dave, you said it yourself, a cheap bandsaw is just that, cheap and nothing but trouble. entry level Jet start at 500 and go up from there, do a little research on here for a wealth of information on bandsaws. you may be able to use a bench top drill press for some mortice work and they are handy to have and save space somewhat but if your main goal is to make mortice a set of good sharp chisels are in order, what's your experience level and if furniture making is your goal buy the best tools you can afford do your research and start making sawdust.
  12. 2 points
    This weekend I finally got this out of the box and upright: The tensions handle is down and behind the unit when tensioned and up when released. So I put a bicycle reflector on the handle to improve the conspicuity. I know not quite a gee-dub solution, but still...
  13. 2 points
    Dave check out ole red coming up over the mtn.
  14. 2 points
    Looks great Mark. You should have taken that huge ambrosia maple piece.
  15. 2 points
    I have never done dadoes so I am worried I am going to screw it up. This makes a lot of sense. What would be the easiest way to make pocket screws? A jig? This seems like a better idea than mine of using 2x4's and 1x4x48 planks. I won't be able to joint and plane, only sand with an orbital. Yes I have a drill (plus kit with bits) and screwdriver. What do you mean about notches? Yes, I have about 7 clamps or so. That is a good trick as well.
  16. 2 points
    If people didn’t pick on me I would think they don’t like me, pick away Spanky
  17. 2 points
    As an educator, we are finding some workarounds. Paging vs. scrolling and retention of page structure makes some of the retention offset more equal. Scrolling is a Huge enemy to all but screening images. Backlit screens need breaks every fifteen minutes or attention spans max out. We are now training students to take notes as they read digital text, as drawing the eye off of the screen every few minutes resets that 15 minute max. If you truly are interested, look up K Smekens. She does a good job compiling the varied study responses. After all that, I still prefer my paper books. Social stuff is all I read on a screen.
  18. 2 points
    And its a pretty piece of wood!
  19. 1 point
    I was looking on CL last night, for some Heart Pine beams I could resaw some boards out of for an old house I'm working on. There are four different houses that I work on, that need replacement parts. One needs molded edge siding, one needs a whole room floor replacement, another needs wide hand planed boards, one needs some beaded edged ceiling joists, and floor above, and also some unusually large hand made bricks. There is also at least one complete replacement separate kitchen needed. A little after 9 last night, I found this ad listed among the Heart Pine ads. I called the seller right away, and being only 61 miles from my house, I was there by 10 this morning. It's like the hand of God plopped this house down, and said here's everything you need in one spot. Several of the old house owners are ready to buy the whole thing, but I have to get it worked out that the right parts go to the right places. Not shown in the CL ad pictures is the fireplace in the basement. It's stone, and the lintel is 9 feet long, a foot thick, and 21 inches tall. It's holding two other fireplaces above it on the other floors, and there is not a crack in it. That'll work for the 18th Century kitchen. The other two chimneys are brick, and almost exactly the right, unusually large size. The siding is an exact match for the missing boards on the 1798 house. https://richmond.craigslist.org/atq/d/phenix-antique-timber-frame-house-ca/6787346927.html And to top that off, the owners bought it years ago with the idea that they would restore it, and live there. Then life caught up to them, and they found out how much work, tools, and skill were required. They did however take all the plaster out, and completely clean it pretty good. That's the worst part of this type of dismantling already done! edited to add: I forgot. The boards I needed to resaw out of the beams I was looking for were to make some wainscoting replacements out of. I had given up on looking for wide enough boards like the originals that were still there in other rooms. Now, I won't even have to hand plane them.
  20. 1 point
    From what I've heard, so take with a grain of salt, combo units have some inherent idiosyncrasies that come to bear because they are combo machines. They supposedly work well enough in either mode but not as good as a stand alone in that same mode. If you already have stand alone units, the added capacity really doesn't give that much benefit. Personally, I'd save up and upgrade one or the other of my stand alones before I'd purchase a combo.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Ask if you can run a couple of boards thru it before you buy.
  23. 1 point
    Put more green on a better bandsaw --14" and definitely a riser block, as said above. Cheapish benchtop drill press is good enough for what i've done over the years and never once wished I had a floor model. For making a morris chair--- go buy a used bench top mortiser, they were all over craigslist inexpensive when I was looking for one. Or use a router with a side guide (i think that's what they call it, I have one for my router) and an upcut bit. -Ace-
  24. 1 point
    Looks like a decent price for the unit if it's in good shape and has flat tables/square fence. The 10" combo units get pretty mixed reviews, the 12"+ are a different class of machine and get much better reviews (also exponentially more expensive).
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    Grizzly is a respectable option. It seems from posts here and other vicarious experiences that Grizzly's business model is to build equipment reasonably well, but cheaply, and then fix the problems after the fact, but they do back that business model up with good customer service. Unfortunately every once in a while this results in some piece of equipment that just has too many problems. That said I don't know of any manufacturer which doesn't have a customer who was unhappy with one of the products and/or the customer service. And that includes Powermatic, and Hammer. So if Grizzly had what I want at a price I want to pay I'd buy it. As to the 10 inch vs 14 inch you're looking at, it comes down to HP, capacity, features and price. There are 14 inch saws that have more than 6 inch resaw capacity, but if you're looking at a smaller capacity 14 inch that seems a fair comparison. Although if the G055LX will take a riser block that would leave the door open to you to "expand" later. Conversely, if you are going to be cutting curved parts for furniture I'm just guessing those parts won't be 12 inches thick. Again any options for you on the used market?
  27. 1 point
    I love a good drill press but, I would give it up in a heartbeat to keep the bandsaw. Size the saw to your space or your needs. If you will resaw, a riser block will get you by but, a 14" doesn't really take up much more footprint than a 17". Oh, and WELCOME!
  28. 1 point
    A lot of good advice above. I would put money in the bandsaw before the drill press and look at used equipment to limit your investment now. I am a big believer of buy onde cry once, but sometimes I don't always know what that "once" should be and buying something used or using someone else's equipment can be that education.
  29. 1 point
    I'm not a fan of either being cheap, but I think it's more important to spend the money on a band saw. Rather than getting a little bench top band saw, consider a larger 14" model. You will likely find that the little saw is very limiting & you'll want a bigger one right away. The Rikon 10-326, or the a used 10-325 are good choices that I've had experience with. There are lots of others as well. Expect to pay north $800 to get one that's worth having. If that's way over budget, then look at the used market.
  30. 1 point
    The Houston boy wants Chestnut, so here you go fresh cut and kiln dried Chestnut. Not one knot! Dave if the Houston boy don’t like this you can have him.
  31. 1 point
    How fun. You made my whole day!
  32. 1 point
    I've been out of town and just got a chance to see this thread. I can't agree with you more, there are groups out there that would love to see us stop harvesting wood. Your data is something we all should rejoice. I've long thought that the cry of deforestation is a false one in North America. Now I will agree that with tropical rain forests there are issues, but not here in North America. We should realize that there should be no guilt in using wood as a resource, a renewable and growing resource. Perhaps access to some species and access to old growth is limited, but we still are in a better position with the resource now than we were decades ago. I also applaud all those woodworkers out there salvaging urban trees and converting them to lumber, but I still think the opportunity exists to make use of trees that fall victim to development. In doing some superficial research myself I found a number of facts about US forests that should make us all smile; We have more trees today than we had in 1970, on the first Earth Day even more than we had 70 years ago. In the middle of the last century, for example, Vermont, Massachusetts and Connecticut were about 35% forested; today they are 59%. Forest growth has exceeded harvests since the 1940s. Even if we could recycle 100% of our used paper, we would still need "virgin" fiber to replace worn out recycled fiber and meet the increasing demand for paper products. Recycling extends the use of virgin fiber, but it will not replace it. Even so, today well over half of all fiber used in paper products comes from recycled paper and from wood waste from sawmills. Recycled wood is another promising source of fiber. These are just a few facts, a visit to this site highlights a number of myths; https://www.bugwood.org/intensive/myths_and_facts_about_u_s__for.html
  33. 1 point
    That is looking incredible. Nice job!
  34. 1 point
    Interesting thread. I had a chemical engineer tell me that paper can only be recycled three times. After that it turns to mush. We have a large paper mill in Calhoun, TN. Its original product was newsprint. With the drop in newspaper sales, they have revamped the plant for a product that is in high demand...toilet paper!
  35. 1 point
    I'd happily fall behind for a shop like yours . . . wait, am I turning green ? Life manages to get in the way of my shop time more than usual lately. I think the shop-gods plan this to make me appreciate my shop time all the more .
  36. 1 point
    Unbealiveable! Will you make one for my wife and I will give you credit?
  37. 1 point
    Wish that were the case. Little niece and nephew over tonight and some cartoon show on tv. No dog in the hunt for super bowl. It was chestnut, right?
  38. 1 point
    He will think his ole head as big as a pumpkin in the morning.
  39. 1 point
    No wonder Boo liked you!
  40. 1 point
    Wow! Mark that is really nicely done!
  41. 1 point
    If the wall is not straight, you will need to shim the wall mounted part of the cleat so that it stays straight. If after screwing it into place it ends up with a bow in it, it won't match up with the bevel on the shelf.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    The friend that sent me the link to that article does software development and video editing on a chromebook.
  45. 1 point
    Thanks Coop. Found the "resaw for continuous grain" thing.
  46. 1 point
    As there appears to be no connection of the two sides in the front, other than the top and bottom shelves, I’d be inclined to believe that the weight of the books is what makes the side to bow out. I would screw the shelves to the sides using pocket screws if you have it. If not, screw from the sides, recessing the screws and cut plugs (or dowels) to cover the screws, sand and touchup with paint.
  47. 1 point
    Might you be able to re-cut it a 1/4" smaller around the perimeter, re-shape and salvage it?
  48. 1 point
    I think I'm set on the busy in the center version. It just seems more right to me. I'll bring back a comparison after i have them all trimmed sanded and with some finish on.
  49. 1 point
    I don't have a Ruobo, and at my age a lifetime bench is two saw horses and a sheet of 3/4 ply. That said, for the last few years here, ruobo's have been built as thin as 3 1/2" and no one seems to be having a problem with them. My only take is that if you take them down to whatever thinness you want. Remove the waste equally from both sides, and do them at the same time. Don't allow one side to remain un trimmed for any length of time. You want any expansion or contraction to proceed equally to both sides. Just my 76 year old opinion.
  50. 1 point
    I did a search and found a few people on here did this cabinet. I love reading Krenov and really wanted to make something in his style even if he's not totally my style. Casework isn't my favorite thing either but I liked the dovetail work in this piece. Hand cutting dovetails is something I need to do more of and this project was perfect to get my dovetail fix in for the year. I changed the leg style from what Marc developed for his plan and I chose the style he based his project off of. This style is more my taste. The piece has grown on me as I built it and as I admire it in it's new home in the corner of our dining room. The wood was milled by me 2 years ago, Norway Maple and Black Walnut. The hand pull for the drawer is Pear, I scrounged up 2 small logs a few years ago, really nice wood to carve and shape. Marc's instruction for this project was fabulous and I choose to hand cut all the dovetails. Well worth the journey and now I can enjoy reading Krenov a little more.