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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/04/19 in Posts

  1. 14 points
    Here is bowl number 18. It's titled "Embraced"--my wife thought it up, and I thought it was a great name. I used the three sided bowl technique I previously described, then carved away two of the pillars to leave a very open view of the "outside in" surface. I was going for a suggestion of heart shape, but I love the way the two pillars rise up to the bowl. Hence the name. The wood is hard maple and the finish is polyurethane varnish.
  2. 6 points
    Spent all day today cleaning up the drawer faces. Also had to do some final sizing. All i have left at this point is stops and figure out a device to stop the drawers from getting pulled all the way out.
  3. 4 points
    This was my 2nd box I've made. Butt joints on oak and purpleheart. Sanded each to 220. Matte water poly on sides and gloss on PH.
  4. 3 points
    This was a challenging one. I think because you normally see segmented bowls done on the lathe where you get the perfect circular form for free this really called for seeking perfection in the form in a way that I don't normally pursue. I got pretty close on the form. Made some stupid mistakes along the way, including dooming the whole thing by failing to thoroughly inspect the stock right at the beginning. But it was really just an experiment so I'm over it. I watched this interview with Mark Lindquist where he talks about how there's ideas about what the right way of doing things are and he doesn't see it that way. He's done stuff like texturing the outside of a bowl by intentionally having catches. So maybe my notion that the segmented bowl has to end up looking perfect isn't the right way to think about it. Maybe I could just power carve the thing and be done at that point.
  5. 2 points
    In self defense I normally make a batch of small items and stash them in the closet for unexpected gift requests. Due to various reasons I got caught flat-footed this holiday season when I was asked for a "quick" gift for someone who "suddenly" came up. I am going to kill off some scrap and shorts and build up a supply for all those surprises that will come up this year ;-) I gather some scrap of at least the minimum size I need. I butterfly it and flip the outside faces in in order to get continuous figure around the box. I thought I had a picture of that technique. I'll try to dig one up and post it here later. I miter all the carcass parts and rabbet them. I plane and pre-finish the inside surfaces with shellac. I have a collection of thin stock in the scrap bin from resawing things like drawer fronts. I use this as veneer on 1/4" plywood for the bottoms; ply out and veneer in, of course. As a side topic, here is my improved Rikon 10-305 fence. Simple but effective. You can see a veneered bottom in rough size at the left edge of this pic. The tops all get a centered 1-3/8" hole. This scale would change with your box size to some degree. I then use setup bars and stops at the router table to route a pair of sort of mortises to receive the pull. The hole gets a round-over treatment. This is where your pinkie go when you grab the pull. I square up the mortises with a 1/4" chisel. I use the same technique I use for G&G ebony plugs, I taper them to fit like a cork. You can see that the ends are slightly angled. I also taper the thickness a bit. This calls for a piece of melamine I keep around with some abrasives on it. You place the pull blank on the abrasive, tile the pull up about 1 degree and pull it toward yourself. I do this once or twice per side. You know when you have the right fit when the pull almost seats in the mortise. You can shorten the angled ends a bit to ease up on the right fit. Why go through all this? Same as on the square ebony plugs, the force-fit of the last 1/64" of depth make a snug fit in the mortise; no gaps. Ready for some finish. I'll be back . . .
  6. 2 points
    They are ceramic pieces I make myself, too! Pottery is another of my hobbies.
  7. 2 points
    What I'm seeing for sale on Craigslist right now isn't encouraging, but I also don't need to make a decision or purchase at this exact moment either. I see a fair amount of rusty antiques for next to nothing and then a few new-ish models where the seller is asking for 90% of what the saw costs new. I'll keep my eye on craigslist though until I get closer to making a decision.
  8. 2 points
    welcome to the forum Dave, you said it yourself, a cheap bandsaw is just that, cheap and nothing but trouble. entry level Jet start at 500 and go up from there, do a little research on here for a wealth of information on bandsaws. you may be able to use a bench top drill press for some mortice work and they are handy to have and save space somewhat but if your main goal is to make mortice a set of good sharp chisels are in order, what's your experience level and if furniture making is your goal buy the best tools you can afford do your research and start making sawdust.
  9. 2 points
    Dave check out ole red coming up over the mtn.
  10. 2 points
    Looks great Mark. You should have taken that huge ambrosia maple piece.
  11. 2 points
    I have never done dadoes so I am worried I am going to screw it up. This makes a lot of sense. What would be the easiest way to make pocket screws? A jig? This seems like a better idea than mine of using 2x4's and 1x4x48 planks. I won't be able to joint and plane, only sand with an orbital. Yes I have a drill (plus kit with bits) and screwdriver. What do you mean about notches? Yes, I have about 7 clamps or so. That is a good trick as well.
  12. 2 points
    If people didn’t pick on me I would think they don’t like me, pick away Spanky
  13. 2 points
    And its a pretty piece of wood!
  14. 1 point
    That's pretty much what that sander I was using is, without the random orbit action. I found what I needed to do was orient the pad so that it was straddling over the low area rather than going parallel to it. Then finish up going with the grain to leave a better surface. But the inside went a lot easier than I expected it to. With the bottom of the bowl not attached yet I was able to get one hand down there for the final hand sanding.
  15. 1 point
    From what I've heard, so take with a grain of salt, combo units have some inherent idiosyncrasies that come to bear because they are combo machines. They supposedly work well enough in either mode but not as good as a stand alone in that same mode. If you already have stand alone units, the added capacity really doesn't give that much benefit. Personally, I'd save up and upgrade one or the other of my stand alones before I'd purchase a combo.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Ask if you can run a couple of boards thru it before you buy.
  18. 1 point
    Put more green on a better bandsaw --14" and definitely a riser block, as said above. Cheapish benchtop drill press is good enough for what i've done over the years and never once wished I had a floor model. For making a morris chair--- go buy a used bench top mortiser, they were all over craigslist inexpensive when I was looking for one. Or use a router with a side guide (i think that's what they call it, I have one for my router) and an upcut bit. -Ace-
  19. 1 point
    I've only heard bad things about those units.
  20. 1 point
    Looks like a decent price for the unit if it's in good shape and has flat tables/square fence. The 10" combo units get pretty mixed reviews, the 12"+ are a different class of machine and get much better reviews (also exponentially more expensive).
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Grizzly is a respectable option. It seems from posts here and other vicarious experiences that Grizzly's business model is to build equipment reasonably well, but cheaply, and then fix the problems after the fact, but they do back that business model up with good customer service. Unfortunately every once in a while this results in some piece of equipment that just has too many problems. That said I don't know of any manufacturer which doesn't have a customer who was unhappy with one of the products and/or the customer service. And that includes Powermatic, and Hammer. So if Grizzly had what I want at a price I want to pay I'd buy it. As to the 10 inch vs 14 inch you're looking at, it comes down to HP, capacity, features and price. There are 14 inch saws that have more than 6 inch resaw capacity, but if you're looking at a smaller capacity 14 inch that seems a fair comparison. Although if the G055LX will take a riser block that would leave the door open to you to "expand" later. Conversely, if you are going to be cutting curved parts for furniture I'm just guessing those parts won't be 12 inches thick. Again any options for you on the used market?
  23. 1 point
    A 14" bands saw with a riser block or a 17" band saw. You can pick up a used drill press through Craigslist almost daily.
  24. 1 point
    I love a good drill press but, I would give it up in a heartbeat to keep the bandsaw. Size the saw to your space or your needs. If you will resaw, a riser block will get you by but, a 14" doesn't really take up much more footprint than a 17". Oh, and WELCOME!
  25. 1 point
    A lot of good advice above. I would put money in the bandsaw before the drill press and look at used equipment to limit your investment now. I am a big believer of buy onde cry once, but sometimes I don't always know what that "once" should be and buying something used or using someone else's equipment can be that education.
  26. 1 point
    I'm not a fan of either being cheap, but I think it's more important to spend the money on a band saw. Rather than getting a little bench top band saw, consider a larger 14" model. You will likely find that the little saw is very limiting & you'll want a bigger one right away. The Rikon 10-326, or the a used 10-325 are good choices that I've had experience with. There are lots of others as well. Expect to pay north $800 to get one that's worth having. If that's way over budget, then look at the used market.
  27. 1 point
    I think you'll have better luck with a cheap drill press than a cheap band saw. I made a pair of Morris chairs and never used a drill press so there are many ways to skin that cat. Though not having a good band saw to resaw would be limiting. There is the rikon 10-306 it's always looked like a very capable small saw but it's $400. That's a LOT for a small saw that isn't that useful for wide resawing. To get a decent 14" you are going to be closer to the $1,000 mark if you wait and buy a saw on sale. This is my suggestion. The rikon 10-326, Laguna 14-12, or the Jet 14SFX. They are all very similar and you can't go wrong with them. They are also all about the same price. It's also worth noting that with a jointer and one of the band saws above you can basically put a tablesaw upgrade on hold for a long time. Most of my rip cuts are done at my band saw and i really only use my table saw for critical cuts and joinery. If that's too expensive i suggest watching craig's list for a used 14" saw from your area. Don't buy the first one you see unless you know it's a good deal. This is my opinion but a saw like this https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/tls/d/minnetonka-14-band-saw/6798960199.html is less useful than the 10" guy. Stick to the delta's jets or old powermatics. At least the 10" rikon will have a warranty and customer suport and can probably resaw just as much.
  28. 1 point
    The Houston boy wants Chestnut, so here you go fresh cut and kiln dried Chestnut. Not one knot! Dave if the Houston boy don’t like this you can have him.
  29. 1 point
    How fun. You made my whole day!
  30. 1 point
    I don't believe that the bow has anything to do with surface coats, but the loading and changes in humidity with the move are certainly plausible explanations. What wood was it made from?
  31. 1 point
    That is looking incredible. Nice job!
  32. 1 point
    I'd happily fall behind for a shop like yours . . . wait, am I turning green ? Life manages to get in the way of my shop time more than usual lately. I think the shop-gods plan this to make me appreciate my shop time all the more .
  33. 1 point
    Unbealiveable! Will you make one for my wife and I will give you credit?
  34. 1 point
    Blue........ It's a tool, not much different than a wrench in your toolbox. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but sexy and good looking stuff goes out of the shop, not in.
  35. 1 point
    Wish that were the case. Little niece and nephew over tonight and some cartoon show on tv. No dog in the hunt for super bowl. It was chestnut, right?
  36. 1 point
    He will think his ole head as big as a pumpkin in the morning.
  37. 1 point
    No wonder Boo liked you!
  38. 1 point
    Wow! Mark that is really nicely done!
  39. 1 point
    If the wall is not straight, you will need to shim the wall mounted part of the cleat so that it stays straight. If after screwing it into place it ends up with a bow in it, it won't match up with the bevel on the shelf.
  40. 1 point
    Super nice work!
  41. 1 point
    So beautiful!
  42. 1 point
    The black ones are Lee Valley which are quite nice. The pot metal ones I think are woodcraft. Whatever they are they were on sale for a price that I should’ve bought a couple sets . Some pocket change for some couplers and some quarter inch threaded rod and you can get quite a lot of versatile set up’s. I’ve seen several shop made versions and they would work equally well.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks Coop. Found the "resaw for continuous grain" thing.
  44. 1 point
    As there appears to be no connection of the two sides in the front, other than the top and bottom shelves, I’d be inclined to believe that the weight of the books is what makes the side to bow out. I would screw the shelves to the sides using pocket screws if you have it. If not, screw from the sides, recessing the screws and cut plugs (or dowels) to cover the screws, sand and touchup with paint.
  45. 1 point
    Dogs are done! Guess that means the tops are officially done until the final flattening. would really love to start on the base today, but I have work work to catch up on.
  46. 1 point
    Went to Spankys today and this is what I saw pulling in the driveway.. 2 of my favorite woods. Walnut and Curly Maple. What a salesman!!!
  47. 1 point
    Might you be able to re-cut it a 1/4" smaller around the perimeter, re-shape and salvage it?
  48. 1 point
    I think I'm set on the busy in the center version. It just seems more right to me. I'll bring back a comparison after i have them all trimmed sanded and with some finish on.
  49. 1 point
    I don't have a Ruobo, and at my age a lifetime bench is two saw horses and a sheet of 3/4 ply. That said, for the last few years here, ruobo's have been built as thin as 3 1/2" and no one seems to be having a problem with them. My only take is that if you take them down to whatever thinness you want. Remove the waste equally from both sides, and do them at the same time. Don't allow one side to remain un trimmed for any length of time. You want any expansion or contraction to proceed equally to both sides. Just my 76 year old opinion.
  50. 1 point
    I did a search and found a few people on here did this cabinet. I love reading Krenov and really wanted to make something in his style even if he's not totally my style. Casework isn't my favorite thing either but I liked the dovetail work in this piece. Hand cutting dovetails is something I need to do more of and this project was perfect to get my dovetail fix in for the year. I changed the leg style from what Marc developed for his plan and I chose the style he based his project off of. This style is more my taste. The piece has grown on me as I built it and as I admire it in it's new home in the corner of our dining room. The wood was milled by me 2 years ago, Norway Maple and Black Walnut. The hand pull for the drawer is Pear, I scrounged up 2 small logs a few years ago, really nice wood to carve and shape. Marc's instruction for this project was fabulous and I choose to hand cut all the dovetails. Well worth the journey and now I can enjoy reading Krenov a little more.