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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/08/2019 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  2. 17 points
    My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  3. 14 points
    I did not fully document this build but wnated to share a few pics. All solid cherry except for the back which is cherry veneer on plywood and the center the crown which is wanut veneer on plywood. New techniques and methods for this project are the crown and the base. My goal was to have the clock face appear to be floating in mid air. s0, for those of you familiar with clock mechanisms, this is a front mounted mechanism but it is mounted to a frame that is mounted to the rear of the case. Working on the crown... Case....The case is dovetailed but they are all hidden in the completed piece. oh well, it was good practice. Door Box that suports the mechanism mechanism is removable from the front (lift and pull) Pics of completed clock.......all that's left is to adjust the timing over the next few days.
  4. 13 points
    One of the projects to do after the dresser was a closet remodel. Some how i came up with the bright idea to make a unit that had 8 drawers in it with closet rod above and below.... I HATE making drawers. Before. Just had a single rod that was about 6' up with a shelf on top. The shelf was wasted space it just catches junk and wasn't very useful. The shelf and rod were removed but this illustrates it well enough. I scored some cherry MDF a while ago for $25 a sheet. Decided to use some of that to make this. I used birch ply for the rest to keep weight down and offer a bit more strength than MDF. I started by edge banding everything with thin strips of cherry. I clamped it on with green tape and was able to get 4 8 foot sections done in short order. I flush trimmed the banding with my router. This method works really well and quite quick. It's easy to adjust the banding if it's not strait, which mine wasn't even close to being strait. After i had everthing edged i joined the top and back together with a single domino to keep them in line. This way i could clamp a guide on both the top and the back and cut mortises for loose tenons at the same time. While i was working the domino would hold things in place so i wouldn't have to worry about bumping the piece and causing a misalignment. Vertical dividers got a dado for the middle shelf. The bottom shelves were attached with dominoes in to the sides of each vertical divider. I didn't want to just glue the bottom on to the dividers because the bottom would hold the weight of the clothing hanging and the weight of what ever is inside the bottom drawers. I figured having just the glue contention wasn't as strong as having to sheer a domino off and break the glue connection. This might be more visible in follow pictures. Case was glued up with epoxy, even with 45 min of time i was running on the ragged edge. I ran out of epoxy and had to use yellow glue for the back. In hindsight I'm glad i ran out because I'd not have had near enough and i'd have probably just tried to go thin with the epoxy and strength would have suffered. I used a couple clamps and probably should have used a couple more. I wanted to hang the closet rod from under the drawer unit but in a way where the hangers would slide with out interference from one end to another. So i devised a hook that would support the closet rod with out interference to the hangers. I made them from scrap so they don't really match but you don't see them ever. I did some strength tests on them to see if the grain direction would be problematic. I almost had to put my entire weight on 1 bracket to break it. So i figured 7 brackets should be strong enough. Drawers are all birch ply. I did cherry veneer for the faces just like for the walnut dresser i just completed. I had a 4' board so the outside 2 drawers are continuous grain that book match over the center. I then book matched the top to the bottom so it's a 4 way match. It looks real good but the closet isn't big enough to see the detail so forever only i will ever know what it looks like..... Oh yeah i used some curly cherry as well. It was one of my not so curly pieces the pictures make it look better than it really is. Mostly finished and loaded up. Some how i hit the drawer depth perfectly. I didn't need to put stops at the back. This never happens and if anything i call it a mistake because i usually try and make them a bit short so i have to install stops. The only other issue is because each drawer is in it's own tight box there is a heavy piston action. Pushing the drawers in and out is difficult on a few of them so I'll have to find a fix for that.
  5. 10 points
    So i mentioned it a while back that i had a request for a backgammon board. It sound like fun and would be an interesting change from furniture. Over Christmas @Ronn W gave me a crash course in veneering and helped me figure out the complex issues creating a backgammon board might create. This first one is going to be a test to see how it goes. I fully expect to mess it up somewhere. So i started out by taping the field on top of the light color veneer that i wanted for the light triangles. To keep the triangles the exact same size you cut through both veneers at the same time. This way you don't have to worry about accuracy on cutting. After i cut the three light triangles I taped them in to their places with plenty of painters tape on the backside. This is import because you don't want the bevel on the razor blade to push the veneer around as you are cutting near the delicate points that will be formed. The taping above is after i completed both sides but it shows the overkill taping i did to make sure nothing moves. The next step was to rinse and repeat with the dark triangles. I'm going to make the board in 2 parts, getting veneer wide enough to do both on one sheet proved to be difficult. It also isn't necessary as there is generally a divider separating both pieces so i can take advantage of that to do separate veneers here. Typically the boards are made with a hinge in the middle but i wanted to go for something a little different. Still working it out so I'll explain later. Now i'm at the point where i need to add the veneer tape and then prep everything to be glued down. I'm not quite sure how that's going to work so off to do research.
  6. 10 points
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  7. 10 points
    A friend builds some very nice custom knives and we've been talking about a collaboration on Etsy, for him to build the knife and me to build a box. He didn't have a knife ready but I built a box anyway. And I built a knife... The box is Walnut with Figured Walnut accents and Red Palm handles, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The knife is Curly Maple, Red Palm, and Figured Walnut, finished is French polish Shellac. Enjoy! David
  8. 10 points
    I have the drawers finished and knobs installed. My plan was to work on the top this week but that isn't working out. So here are some topless pictures.
  9. 9 points
    I want to show you what I got from Houston today. Talk about a box maker check this out.
  10. 9 points
    I'm building The Wood Whisperer's Outdoor sitting Bench. I'm making it several inches shorter in length for the space I have at my front entry, and I'm doing it in Walnut. Lots of Ms&Ts
  11. 9 points
    I did up the lower section of the bench yesterday. Eight more M&Ts went pretty quickly. I tapered the back sides of the legs with a quick and dirty tapering fixture. I pillowed one of the legs and cleaned it up with hand planes to remove the saw marks. I saved the other three legs for later but still had to dry assemble the bench to see what it looks like.
  12. 9 points
    In the 18 months since my last update I've made a couple of hundred corrections / updates / additions www.hobbithouseinc.com/wood_name_database/
  13. 9 points
    Slow going with whole kitchen remodel but got the walnut top finished. Thanks for all the advice and tips. After trying various stains and dyes on some scrap and on the bottom side of this slab it was decided to use NO stain and just polyurethane. I used Arm-R-Seal gloss to build up a few coats (used cotton cut up t-shirts) and finished it off with same brand polyurethane but in satin. I did not use plywood underneath. I attached top to cabinets using perpendicular to grain slotted boards and table fasteners (sort of an L shape) so that slab can move with changes to temp/humidity. The double edge pulls of the thick slab look nicely. Thanks again.
  14. 9 points
    There is always a corner of the shop which becomes a bit of a dumping ground and where things pile up. This is the area where my sharpening stuff begins, and then deteriorates as it merges with a "cabinet" that holds supplies and a wall of screws and stuff. An old stereo hanging on the wall - a dust trap. I really hates this area. What follows is not fine furniture building! A friend gave me a bunch of veneered MDF boards ... This is what emerged after the past weekend ... Space for an old amplifier. And more storage ... That looks better ... Regards from Perth Derek
  15. 9 points
    Well ... I thought I ought to post an update on this thread ... It's not all good news ... on the move back to Canada this piece didn't fare too well for a number of reasons. First ... at some point in the move the package containing this got dropped, and three of the legs broke off, and the rest of the carcass got badly damaged. Second ... the move from a humid tropical environment with no seasons, to the bone-dry climate of Alberta (also the wood was probably just air dried) caused some serious shrinkage ... I knew there would be some, but it was seriously more than I anticipated ... my poor pegged tenons didn't manage to move enough, and so it started pulling itself apart ... revealing all kinds of design flaws. Thirdly ... the wood movement was not even, and any sapwood cupped violently (although the heartwood wasn't too bad). Fortunately there wasn't much sapwood in the project, but I had prepared a whole bunch as secondary wood to be used in the drawer construction ... seriously just firewood now. Fourthly ... the top I had fortunately built out of quartersawn boards, so it remained relatively stable, and ended up surprisingly flat ... However the shrinkage was so significant, that it just wasn't big enough any more ... so I had to rip it in half and splice in about a 3/4" strip. With all the other changes in my life ... even once I got it back into my garage ... I just kept looking at it and thinking "firewood" ... I had a real motivation problem to get enthusiastic about repairing all the damage, and getting back to finishing it all off. Well, eventually I thought I had to do something with it ... either have at it again, or chop it up and burn it ... one way or the other it had to get off my bench and stop cluttering up the garage. So I glued the legs back on, and started to think about what had to be done next. Because of my motivational issues, and all the damage (most of which I just covered up, rather than fixing properly), I was just trying to get it done not necessarily done well. So I'm afraid I wasn't documenting the rest of the build ... but slowly it began to get back into a condition that I thought could be saved ... The wood is a South American wood called "Sapan". It's quite a common wood for domestic use in Colombia, it's hard and dense, with straight grain, and very pretty when finished ... but it is a brute to work with ... it's hard on tools, it has interlocking grain making it awful to plane without tearout, and it's horribly splintery. What's more I seem to be allergic to the splinters. I covered the drawer fronts with a bubinga veneer that I had. There's two small hidden drawers inside, into one of which a printout of this thread is going. Although it is certainly not my finest work (no close up pics since I'm trying to hide damage and poor fitting joinery from excessive wood movement etc.). I knew I was pushing my limits with this one from the start, and the whole process was certainly a learning experience and has made me a better woodworker. So here it is ...
  16. 9 points
    Under the mattress is a 3/4 ply base supported with ripped 2x4s, screwed and glued for a simple frame. Didn't have to be pretty (and it isn't!), just solid. And it's heavy. So here it is in the bedroom, just last night. This started September 2017 which is a little embarrassing to say but at least the results are in and we slept off the floor!
  17. 8 points
    Heres a look at Rickys black walnut bowl so far. Got the inside sanded to 400 grit and danish oiled. The outside I just got sanded to 80. Im thinking a coat of Osmo as a final coat.
  18. 8 points
    Hi I'm new to the forum , I retired this year and I love to build toys . I build rocking toys and replica cars,trucks , tractors .
  19. 8 points
    Enough space in the new shop for an assembly table.. Torsion box top, alder base, trimmed out in walnut
  20. 8 points
    I've wanted to build one of these for some time, but didn't have a lathe. I took a turning class with the very talented Laura Yeats last fall and thought it would be a great opportunity to get it done. I worked off modified plans in Popular Woodworking, adding almost 7" to the height of Christopher Schwarz' plans. I used a bunch of mesquite offcuts from previous projects. I ordered the leather package from Texas Heritage Woodworks, Jason Thigpen. Well worth the money IMO. Superb workmanship and detail. I didn't shoot many photos along the way. It was mostly a turning project, otherwise pretty simple. It really comfy!
  21. 7 points
    Both near the stairs. Both bright and visible right as one enters the shop. The fire extinguisher came with a simple mounting bracket. The first aid kit needed a simple plywood box to hang on the french cleats. Butt joints, glue, and a cool paint job. Now I feel like such a grownup!
  22. 7 points
    Built this to spec from Christian Becksvoort's article in Fine Woodworking. Used some figured flame birch I got from Bell Forest a few years back. Funny, I've come a long way with hand tools since then and have learned appreciate the workability and subtleness of lumber vs. figure. The heavy figure and hardness of the birch was a nightmare. Planes were useless. All in all, came out nice. Cut the dovetails on the tablesaw with a square edged blade and cleaned up with a chisel. I don't have a special dovetail blade. Removing the waste on the pin board was more time consuming then I'd prefer. Also, you really need to pay attention. Every cut seems to be the opposite angle of what you expect and you can mess up quickly. I spent more time second and third checking than actually running the saw. Finish is Shellac, specifically 50/50 seal coat and DNA. Last coat went one with 25% mineral oil. Wiped off the residual oil after 24 hours and wet sanded with a Mr Clean magic eraser, mineral spirits and a few drop of dawn. I love matte shellac finishes. All in all very happy. Becksvoort said in the article it should last many generations...he clearly hasn't met my three boys. I give them 4 months.
  23. 7 points
    Work has been getting in the way. I just got to the top today and started applying finish. After this week the job that pays the bills should be less demanding. Found some crotch figure for the top. I did all the sanding with my #4s. There is a bit of tear out here and there and a plane track or two, i can only do so much but it beats sanding with an ros for hours.
  24. 7 points
    There is a long toothed rookie trying to make a name for himself this upcoming baseball season; he has special needs on his personal bat style. Hopefully he doesn't break the bat.
  25. 7 points