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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/10/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Enough space in the new shop for an assembly table.. Torsion box top, alder base, trimmed out in walnut
  2. 3 points
    Dave let me show you some mtn red cedar logs 12 ft long.
  3. 3 points
    This is an up date on the 1200 grit DMT diamond plate. I found the scratch pattern to be a little rougher then I expected compared to the wet/dry paper. The plate does put a nice edge on the blade and removes material much faster then the paper but does not produce the mirror finish that the paper does, not sure why? I have been reading that most go beyond the 1200 grit to 6000 and 8000 grit then use a leather strop with extra fine compound to finish. I looked at the water stones and flattening plate but the cost (Around $300 for a quality 6000, 8000 and flattering plate) is prohibitive at this time. So I splurged for a leather bench strop and honing compound for $30 and what a difference a strop makes. Just a few strokes across the strop and wow, my tools are shaving like razor blades. I am still planning on getting the 6000 and 8000 water stones but wanted to relay on how much difference the strop made when just honing up to the 1200 grit plate.
  4. 2 points
    My oldest grandson has taken an interest in working with me. My son, his uncle is a very good woodworker himself.
  5. 2 points
    Man I wish more of this was WO. I've never worked with WO before, fresh off the jointer it is gorgeous. Unfortunately this face is going to go inside the top lamination.
  6. 2 points
    Hey, they don’t call me pecker pole sawmill around here! They ask how do you come up with all the big logs.
  7. 2 points
    My closest home center is a Lowes, so the brands I consider all come from there. I've been moving more into the cordless realm, and find the Kobalt 24volt system to be an excellent value. I have both the cordless ROS and Jigsaw, and they perform excellently. I am not the OCD type that loves matched tools, but cordless kind of locks you into a battery system. For the router, forget about owning just one. In no time at all, you will very likely find yourself in the possession of a 2.5 - 3 hp unit to go in a table, another with a plunge base, and a small trim router for lighter work. Then those will breed like rabbits, and you may eventually discover all your bits permanently mounted in a motor.
  8. 2 points
    You ask lots of questions about smaller tools and I agree with gee-dub about dust collection.. I own a lot of Festool and you can have their jig saw. It's flat out not worth the money... I only own 2 Bosch tools and would honestly think I'd be using them to fill your "needs" list. I really do think they're the best game in town for tools where the budget has to be kept in mind. For the record, both of my Bosch tools are routers. If they had better dust collection, I frankly think they'd keep up with my Festool stuff. On that note, to echo gee-dub.. Make sure your DC is in order!
  9. 2 points
    I’m gonna be like a lady who walked up with her husband. He ventured out and she told him it looked real pretty from where she was standing! Someone has to take pics without worrying about dropping the camera!
  10. 2 points
    Look at that! An end cap!
  11. 2 points
    Thanks for the welcome. I've build several kayaks, all detailed in build logs on my site farback.ca. I'm currently working on a Bear Mountain Redbird canoe. some pics: Kayaks, toy boxes for two newest grand daughters, display stand for WWII era Gurkha knife, solid oak 'liars table' for fire hall.
  12. 1 point
    I got The Why and How of Woodworking for Christmas and quickly contracted kumiko fever. I hit a brief lull between projects and realized that I hadn't made anything for my own house since 2017, which is just unacceptable. I decided to make a kumiko lamp to replace a sad little Walmart lamp my wife and I have had ever since we got married. I started by making the jigs: Two jigs with a simple screwed-in stop in the right position. Snug enough on the sides to hold the kumiko piece in place. The kumiko is primarily ash, but the thinner pieces are white oak. It just happened that way with the scrap I had. I think it looks nice. Things were going great until I got a little TOO in the groove and a piece of white oak snagged on my chisel, and the chisel jerked out of place. Had to get four stitches in my left index finger. Not actually that bad of a cut, but it was weirdly shaped and I did not want it getting infected. I've cut my fingers before, and the wounds never seem to close up right without help. So at that point I took a week off. After it healed up, I got back on it! I decided I wanted a walnut frame. I had some walnut leftovers from my last project, so I The walnut is just simple mortise-and-tenon joinery. Super simple with a dado blade and hollow-chisel mortiser. The rails have a very slight rabbet that receives the kumiko panel. Not pictured is how I added a border to the outside of the kumiko so there is a nice border of light-colored ash around the edges. The top is not going to stay like that - I'll have to make something to hold it in place. Next up is to sand the kumiko panels until they're pretty. I'm also looking forward to getting to apply the rice paper to the inside of the panels. I'm going to use a thin double-sided carpet tape between the rice paper and the kumiko. I think it'll look pretty sharp! I still want to trim the legs a bit shorter, and I still want to put some sort of curve on the legs - something kind of like what Cremona did on his son's twin-size log bed's legs, if you remember that thing. Other than that, I have got a SWEET idea for the light installation. I bought some remote-controlled RGB LED strips that I'm going to adhere to a cylinder to basically create my own intense, huge, super-bright light LED light bulb. The rice paper should diffuse it enough that it will look incredible. This thing is going to be really cool.
  13. 1 point
    There is a long toothed rookie trying to make a name for himself this upcoming baseball season; he has special needs on his personal bat style. Hopefully he doesn't break the bat.
  14. 1 point
    Teaching the next generation of woodworkers to source materials, use tools and make useful things. I had some wasted space between two garage doors. We made a small shelf unit to fit between the doors. We were able to place all of my garage products on this shelf in an organized manner. She became familiar with project layout, woodworking concepts and the use of tools. No longer scarred of using machinery. So much for my "toxic masculinity".
  15. 1 point
    That has been my experience with ink, too. Messy, no matter what. My preferred method for "ebonizing" is to use Kiwi black liquid show polish, a leather dye that works great on wood.
  16. 1 point
    Got to work on it a little more today! Spent most of the time sanding the centers of the kumiko flush before adding the outer border. It’s not the “right” way of doing it, but it’s how it worked out this time. Anyway, after that I cut the inset into the legs and rails that will accept the panels from behind but not let them fall out. Each side panel is more or less held in place by a 1/16” rabblet lip that runs around the whole thing. I also put a coat of spray shellac on the first panel to dry up and then used double-sides tape to attach the rice paper. I cut off the excess tape and paper with a knife, and then got to work on the light bulb. The light bulb is... different. I got a 12 foot self-adhesive RGBW LED light, like is often used under kitchen cabinets. I then made a plus-shaped “bulb” out of a 4” wide piece of plywood. I half-lapped it over an identical piece to give it a 3D form, just like what they use inside LED light bulbs if you’ve ever taken one apart. I spoiled the lights around carefully, and tested them out. I’m getting excited about this thing, it’s going to be very custom and very cool. The light set comes with a remote to control color and brightness. There’s also a selection of modes which cycle the colors, which is also awesome! as fun as the LED lights are, I’m not putting all my money on that horse. The plywood of the “bulb” will be screwed into place and easily replaceable if these lights end up not being great in the lamp.
  17. 1 point
    I'll echo the comments on DC. I have the Tool Shop from Menards but it's pretty much the same one that Harbor Freight sells. For entry level and a lot of years beyond that it's a great starting point. My best sander is a 5" ROS Bosch, in fact I have two. Not a big fan of the jig saw, maybe because I've always had cheap ones. About the only place I use it is for trimming very thin pieces of plywood, like 1/4". Other than that there are better tools for the job. I'll also echo the "routers are like rabbits" comment but my favorite is a 2.75 HP variable speed combo kit I got at Menards. Again, it's their house brand Tool Shop but I'm pretty sure it's a relabeled Milwaukee. I'd suggest a combo to start and then maybe a Porter Cable for the router table you know you're going to build.
  18. 1 point
    Glad that is working for you Cody. I think you made a good decision. Later, if the bug sticks with you and you want to upgrade there will not be any anxiety as the current saw was such a bargain. Congrats on your new tool.
  19. 1 point
    Those would make some fine purple martin houses!
  20. 1 point
    So apparently, despite being shellac based, this ink is at least a little water soluble. I didn't want to spray finish with the doors closed, and it's about -10 C outside, so I opted to brush the Enduro var on the legs. It only dissolved a little bit of the ink, but it was messy. On the plus side, it helped to carry the ink into some of the crevices that were hard to reach when wiping it on. It does mean that I've now got a few ounces of finish that are now only good for top coating over black
  21. 1 point
    I personally find a jigsaw pretty unimportant. It gets occasional use when breaking down large, rough stock, but that's about it. I've been reduced to the same Ryobi cordless jigsaw you have and I've rarely been tempted to buy new, even though I dont like that saw and have no faith in most ryobi tools. The ROS? I really like my 6" Bosch, but I like my 5" Dewalt that was pretty cheap, too. I don't use the Dewalt much anymore since I dont really stock paper for it, but it was probably a third the price as the Bosch and left just as good of a finish. My first router was a Craftsman combo kit that was like $120. Dirt cheap for what it is and it is still the Router I use in my router table. My primary stand alone router is a Bosch that was 2-3x that of the Craftsman. I don't think its 2-3x better of a router, though I do like it. I'd go cheap though and buy some decent bits.
  22. 1 point
    For that throat plate, check YouTube for videos on how to make your own zero clearance insert. My first table saw was a Dewalt jobsite that was probably in the same class as your saw, and I made about a half dozen zero clearance inserts for it out of MDF (not the best material for the job, but it worked) in less than an afternoon. I'm no longer a big Steve Ramsey fan, but if you are brand new to woodworking he is a decent place to start. I think it was his video on zero clearance inserts that I used as instructions.
  23. 1 point
    Routers: Get the cheapest name brand 2-1/4 hp plunge/fixed base kit you can find, but make sure there's an edge guide available for it and factor that into the combined price. Jigsaw: Bosch is pretty standard, but I've used Makita and liked it just as well. The main question is handle or barrel grip, which you need to decide for yourself. Random Orbit Sander: Bosch is my favorite of the 5" variety.
  24. 1 point
    It's probably safe to assume that the only thing that will likely live under here would be magazines or newspapers... Anyway, I've gotten all the way to finishing. There was a lot of scraping and sanding in between, along with easing edges. I've got 3 coats of Enduro var on the top. I've also applied the ink to the base. It covered pretty well, but I think there will be a second coat. Just need to do all this a few more times, then I can put it together. I'm aiming to deliver it next weekend.
  25. 1 point
    Coop, Dave and Rick maybe to wild for me on the bridge. I may need to stand on that rock with you and just watch. Somebody needs to tell the story about what happen.
  26. 1 point
    The sudden stop at the bottom.
  27. 1 point
    Both sides of the torsion box top are MDF. To attached the top, I used lags through the rails so, it's removable.
  28. 1 point
    Cool video, short and sweet! Is the bottom side of the box ply? How did you attach the box to the frame?
  29. 1 point
    Dave if you come down I don’t want you to be like the Houston boy on this bridge. He didn’t want me on the swinging bridge we him. I wanted to show him why they call them a swinging bridge.
  30. 1 point
    Nice! Those kayaks are beautiful! (and all that other stuff is pretty nice, too!)
  31. 1 point
    Hi everyone! It took me a while, but I finally finished securing it. I took your suggestions and used a combination of a french cleat and brackets. the top part is used a metal french cleat (because it was 22 bucks and an easy way to get exact alignment) I ran into 1 minor issue and that was the fact that the wood piece of top has a 5 degree cant. Initially i thought to anneal the edges of the cleat and widen it by 5 degrees but i was worried it would mess w/ the integrity of it, so after chatting and bouncing ideas off a neighbor, i realized I could do a sort of overlay made of wood that has that 5 degree cant built into it so the clean will not have to deal with any structural damage. this was the finished overlay piece. Top View Side View to show the 5 degree cant I took a 2x3 stud, trim the edges and then combined them into a bigger piece to build the overlay that fits over the original wood piece and after I stained and sealed it with shellac, I mounted it. took some effort for find the right studs and secure it properly but it worked out. This is with the cleat installed and mounted to the original piece Then at the same time I wanted to make sure that whatever weight is put on it (ie a kid who decides they want to start mirror climbing....) it will hold, so I took a spare piece of wood from an older project and cut it down to 40" wide so it's hidden behind the mirror but if someone looks there, it won't look like scrap wood. I beveled the edges in case someone, somehow ends up hitting the edge by some crazy act of freak accidents. Here are the pics of the wood after I finished it. Installed it onto the wall (found 4 studs so i screwed x2 3.5" wood screws per stud) and mounted the brackets on it. Here's the piece installed and followed up by the bracket (which took a lot of finagling to make sure it fits in exactly This project took me about 6 days to complete (spending about 2-3hrs a day on average). The part that took the longest was the planning, then followed by the staining and sealing. the installation itself took about 2 hours. Here's the overall look of the mirror now that it's secured: Original pieces pre installation (with the overlay moved off to the side to show how it fits close up of the clean (you can see the x3 2.5" screws I drilled through the overlay to hold the original piece to the new piece) If you look all the way down, you can see all 3 points where it is secured to the wall. All in all, Thank you very much everyone for giving me all sorts of great ideas for me to formulate and put together!! My wife is very happy about this and I am happy this project is successful and should be inconspicuous!
  32. 1 point
    I have looked at the magnetic strips, but haven't used them. Do they have enough holding strength that bumping an adjacent tool doesn't cause it to fall off? The tools in this picture seem way too close together for my clumsy fingers to be able to pull out a tool without jostling the ones on either side. I'd hate to see a good chisel hit the floor (or my foot) just because I bumped it. The magnets seem like a good solution for screwdrivers and such. I wonder if something like a dentil molding attached to the top or bottom of the strip would work.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for detailing some of your methods Joe. You are a gifted craftsman. Truly beautiful work. You are spot-on about choosing your clientele. My brother has made a good living in the car repair, restoration and parts business . . . but, . . . he doesn't cater to Chevy owners. I learned from his success. I have been lucky enough to gather some repeat customers who want something made just for them; and they have friends, and their friends have friends.
  34. 1 point
    People often think I am joking when I say that I can not afford my own work. I have been fortunate to have cultivated a clientele which allows me the opportunity to use my apprenticeship, formal education, and creative desires. All of my best work sits in others homes, but that affords me a home of my own.
  35. 1 point
    So since I posted last, I've gone a bit further on the project. I tried filling some knots and defects, but I didn't have epoxy, so I got creative... I used a mixture of weldbond and ink to create a black filler. On the plus side, it looks good and filled reasonably well, but it made a mess and doesn't sand well. I had to use a plane, card scraper, and file to take off most of the excess. I did build the base as well. Here's what I ended up with. It still needs to be ebonized. And here's the current state of it on my bench. I need to clean up the top a bit more, and I have some minor repairs on the base. Then it's on to finishing.
  36. 1 point
    No CA glue in the shop?
  37. 1 point
    Since my retirement, I have been spending more time in my shop this year. Here are some photos of my shop and bench. "Benchzilla" has given me about 10 years of faithful service so far. I built it using M&T frames and raised panel construction and it weighs about 300lbs. It is just over 4x8 ft. as I also use it as an out-feed table. It has it's own electrical circuit and a dedicated panel with hidden outlets under the ledges. It also has a small built-in air compressor to run my brad guns. Still, I am gradually gravitating back towards an emphasis on hand tools. I have built boats and airplanes in here as well as some furniture of which I still have much to learn.
  38. 1 point
    A couple of my kids have a little interest in woodworking, but it's my 14 YO grand daughter that has really got the bug. She's taking a construction module in school now & loves it. We've done quite a few projects together over the past couple of years. I've been teaching her how to use the machinery & last weekend she graduated to the table saw. I love it. It's real quality time.
  39. 1 point
    My flip top is based on the Woodsmith (August Home) version and is about 24" x 24" x 28" high. You want to plan height based on the tool's ability to be flipped as well as the operating height. I could see a flip top that was able to hold a bench top DP setting the DP at an odd operational height but, you can sort that out based on your height, reach and use case. I started with a CMS and a planer on my stand. When I found how seldom I used a CMS, it changed to a sander. This worked out well as the planer was used a lot and the sander not so much. The tools were within a few pounds of each other so flipping them was easy. I will caution you to make one side of the top removable so that you can change T-nut positions if you change tools. I did this at someone's suggestion and it paid off . . . twice. The stand now lives at Dad's and serves his DW735 planer and his Ridgid belt/spindle sander so I guess that makes three times ;-)
  40. 1 point
    Congrats Cody and enjoy your new purchase. Safe woodworking and continue to post. Looking forward to seeing your projects.
  41. 1 point
    My 2 cents (worth about that) I've seen a number of projects online where the small jobsite saw was built into a table for cutting sheets. It retains the problem of small blade/low power and thus would be difficult for heftier lumber & plywood. But it would get the job done on a lot of material. Still, you end up spending most of the cost of a better saw after building the table, although you still have a portable jobsite saw. IOW, it seems to me that unless you need the jobsite functions you're better of with a little bit bigger contractor's saw or hybrid saw. The $300 to $400 price point comes up pretty quickly. My