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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  2. 18 points
    This was a fun build, and it really shows off Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple. I was inspired to do this piece after seeing some nice buffet designs and builds on this site. Why would a buffet design inspire this piece, well this piece will match my future buffet table/cabinet! I also plan to build a matching liquor cabinet to match this piece. That liquor cabinet is just getting started and if I can get my act together I wanted to post a journal with that. Now for those that have seen some of my work, you know I lean more toward a Maloof/sculptured design. I had to incorporate some flowing lines in this piece but it's a lot more traditional than Maloof stuff. I still find this look appealing. Spanky's curly ambrosia really looks great with the walnut, and my liquor cabinet will incorporate these two woods also. Fully stocked in this photo; Drawer dovetail were handcut and run on a center guide. Really like the way these woods work together; From the side view you can really appreciate the curves in this piece; Thanks for looking.
  3. 17 points
    My daughter and her husband just purchased a home in Fairfax Va. and wanted some federal style furniture to add to her collection . I just finished what I hope will be the final two pieces.
  4. 14 points
    I did not fully document this build but wnated to share a few pics. All solid cherry except for the back which is cherry veneer on plywood and the center the crown which is wanut veneer on plywood. New techniques and methods for this project are the crown and the base. My goal was to have the clock face appear to be floating in mid air. s0, for those of you familiar with clock mechanisms, this is a front mounted mechanism but it is mounted to a frame that is mounted to the rear of the case. Working on the crown... Case....The case is dovetailed but they are all hidden in the completed piece. oh well, it was good practice. Door Box that suports the mechanism mechanism is removable from the front (lift and pull) Pics of completed clock.......all that's left is to adjust the timing over the next few days.
  5. 13 points
    One of the projects to do after the dresser was a closet remodel. Some how i came up with the bright idea to make a unit that had 8 drawers in it with closet rod above and below.... I HATE making drawers. Before. Just had a single rod that was about 6' up with a shelf on top. The shelf was wasted space it just catches junk and wasn't very useful. The shelf and rod were removed but this illustrates it well enough. I scored some cherry MDF a while ago for $25 a sheet. Decided to use some of that to make this. I used birch ply for the rest to keep weight down and offer a bit more strength than MDF. I started by edge banding everything with thin strips of cherry. I clamped it on with green tape and was able to get 4 8 foot sections done in short order. I flush trimmed the banding with my router. This method works really well and quite quick. It's easy to adjust the banding if it's not strait, which mine wasn't even close to being strait. After i had everthing edged i joined the top and back together with a single domino to keep them in line. This way i could clamp a guide on both the top and the back and cut mortises for loose tenons at the same time. While i was working the domino would hold things in place so i wouldn't have to worry about bumping the piece and causing a misalignment. Vertical dividers got a dado for the middle shelf. The bottom shelves were attached with dominoes in to the sides of each vertical divider. I didn't want to just glue the bottom on to the dividers because the bottom would hold the weight of the clothing hanging and the weight of what ever is inside the bottom drawers. I figured having just the glue contention wasn't as strong as having to sheer a domino off and break the glue connection. This might be more visible in follow pictures. Case was glued up with epoxy, even with 45 min of time i was running on the ragged edge. I ran out of epoxy and had to use yellow glue for the back. In hindsight I'm glad i ran out because I'd not have had near enough and i'd have probably just tried to go thin with the epoxy and strength would have suffered. I used a couple clamps and probably should have used a couple more. I wanted to hang the closet rod from under the drawer unit but in a way where the hangers would slide with out interference from one end to another. So i devised a hook that would support the closet rod with out interference to the hangers. I made them from scrap so they don't really match but you don't see them ever. I did some strength tests on them to see if the grain direction would be problematic. I almost had to put my entire weight on 1 bracket to break it. So i figured 7 brackets should be strong enough. Drawers are all birch ply. I did cherry veneer for the faces just like for the walnut dresser i just completed. I had a 4' board so the outside 2 drawers are continuous grain that book match over the center. I then book matched the top to the bottom so it's a 4 way match. It looks real good but the closet isn't big enough to see the detail so forever only i will ever know what it looks like..... Oh yeah i used some curly cherry as well. It was one of my not so curly pieces the pictures make it look better than it really is. Mostly finished and loaded up. Some how i hit the drawer depth perfectly. I didn't need to put stops at the back. This never happens and if anything i call it a mistake because i usually try and make them a bit short so i have to install stops. The only other issue is because each drawer is in it's own tight box there is a heavy piston action. Pushing the drawers in and out is difficult on a few of them so I'll have to find a fix for that.
  6. 10 points
    So i mentioned it a while back that i had a request for a backgammon board. It sound like fun and would be an interesting change from furniture. Over Christmas @Ronn W gave me a crash course in veneering and helped me figure out the complex issues creating a backgammon board might create. This first one is going to be a test to see how it goes. I fully expect to mess it up somewhere. So i started out by taping the field on top of the light color veneer that i wanted for the light triangles. To keep the triangles the exact same size you cut through both veneers at the same time. This way you don't have to worry about accuracy on cutting. After i cut the three light triangles I taped them in to their places with plenty of painters tape on the backside. This is import because you don't want the bevel on the razor blade to push the veneer around as you are cutting near the delicate points that will be formed. The taping above is after i completed both sides but it shows the overkill taping i did to make sure nothing moves. The next step was to rinse and repeat with the dark triangles. I'm going to make the board in 2 parts, getting veneer wide enough to do both on one sheet proved to be difficult. It also isn't necessary as there is generally a divider separating both pieces so i can take advantage of that to do separate veneers here. Typically the boards are made with a hinge in the middle but i wanted to go for something a little different. Still working it out so I'll explain later. Now i'm at the point where i need to add the veneer tape and then prep everything to be glued down. I'm not quite sure how that's going to work so off to do research.
  7. 10 points
    I built this shelf out of off the rack red oak a few years ago. I saw all this curl in the back of the pile and bought the whole board. Used Marc’s recipe for popping the grain. I think it turned out well. I have no beef with red oak.
  8. 10 points
    A friend builds some very nice custom knives and we've been talking about a collaboration on Etsy, for him to build the knife and me to build a box. He didn't have a knife ready but I built a box anyway. And I built a knife... The box is Walnut with Figured Walnut accents and Red Palm handles, finished in Nitrocellulose lacquer. The knife is Curly Maple, Red Palm, and Figured Walnut, finished is French polish Shellac. Enjoy! David
  9. 9 points
    So today i made a big push on getting the backrest designed and finished. I had no idea what i was going to do with this when i woke up. I nailed down the design and plunged a lot of mortises for dominoes and got everything together for both back rests. It's starting to look like a chair. I need to get some shorter SS screws to attach the back rest to the chair. To tie the seat in I'll be plugging the screw holes with Ipe. I like how the back of the back rest turned out. Everything steps in. The one down side is the back rest is heavy so the chair sits at a fair natural tilt. In the pictures i used a block as a kickstand. The good part about the extra weight is that when sitting in the chair it sits better in the reclined position. I need to route a more comfortable chamfer or something for where your head touches the headrest and then finish sand everything. So it's close to being done. It might i still have quite a few to make so I'll give it a shot. I've been working on the back rest today cause i wanted to see how everything was going to turn out.
  10. 9 points
    Things went excellent. Came out dead flat and sanded up nicely. Removing the veneer tape was fun but also nerve racking i didn't want to sand through the veneer. I don't know what this link will do but the origional image is 10 meg and has a bit more resoulition. If you go to the full size version you can maybe see some of the gaps but i'm really happy with how hard they are to find. Thank you @Ronn W i hope i did well. Now to glue the other one down and then make the box to go around all of this.
  11. 9 points
    I want to show you what I got from Houston today. Talk about a box maker check this out.
  12. 9 points
    I'm building The Wood Whisperer's Outdoor sitting Bench. I'm making it several inches shorter in length for the space I have at my front entry, and I'm doing it in Walnut. Lots of Ms&Ts
  13. 9 points
    I did up the lower section of the bench yesterday. Eight more M&Ts went pretty quickly. I tapered the back sides of the legs with a quick and dirty tapering fixture. I pillowed one of the legs and cleaned it up with hand planes to remove the saw marks. I saved the other three legs for later but still had to dry assemble the bench to see what it looks like.
  14. 9 points
    In the 18 months since my last update I've made a couple of hundred corrections / updates / additions www.hobbithouseinc.com/wood_name_database/
  15. 9 points
    Slow going with whole kitchen remodel but got the walnut top finished. Thanks for all the advice and tips. After trying various stains and dyes on some scrap and on the bottom side of this slab it was decided to use NO stain and just polyurethane. I used Arm-R-Seal gloss to build up a few coats (used cotton cut up t-shirts) and finished it off with same brand polyurethane but in satin. I did not use plywood underneath. I attached top to cabinets using perpendicular to grain slotted boards and table fasteners (sort of an L shape) so that slab can move with changes to temp/humidity. The double edge pulls of the thick slab look nicely. Thanks again.
  16. 8 points
    Heres a look at Rickys black walnut bowl so far. Got the inside sanded to 400 grit and danish oiled. The outside I just got sanded to 80. Im thinking a coat of Osmo as a final coat.
  17. 8 points
    Hi I'm new to the forum , I retired this year and I love to build toys . I build rocking toys and replica cars,trucks , tractors .
  18. 8 points
    I've wanted to build one of these for some time, but didn't have a lathe. I took a turning class with the very talented Laura Yeats last fall and thought it would be a great opportunity to get it done. I worked off modified plans in Popular Woodworking, adding almost 7" to the height of Christopher Schwarz' plans. I used a bunch of mesquite offcuts from previous projects. I ordered the leather package from Texas Heritage Woodworks, Jason Thigpen. Well worth the money IMO. Superb workmanship and detail. I didn't shoot many photos along the way. It was mostly a turning project, otherwise pretty simple. It really comfy!
  19. 7 points
    I just finish putting a new floor surface down in my shop. Its still early, just a couple of days, but so far I am truly impressed. I purchased this from https://www.rubberflooringinc.com I got the 8mm thick strong rubber tiles, Black with gray flecks. The tiles are 23 inches square and interlock. They come in corner pieces, edge pieces and center pieces. The pattern for my shop took 36 tiles, 9 corners, 4 centers and 23 edge. The interlock edges are cut so well that when you get them together it is near impossible to see unless you are standing and looking directly down on them. I had been looking at this flooring system off and on for 18 months but just never made the final decision. Then I had this broken ankle thing and I needed to do some physical therapy after it healed. The facility that I was going to, in the area were they had all there exercise equipment they had this really nice rubber floor that had this supportive and comfortable feel under my feet, it wasn't soft but you could feel some give to it. I asked my therapist, also the owner, were he bought it and turns out it was from the same place I had been looking. Well that kind of sealed the deal for me, to get to walk on it before I purchased made the decision easy. It took me about 3 hours to put the floor down, this included making some cuts on some pieces to go around equipment. It cuts fairly easily with a sharp utility knife and straight edge. The first few tiles I was pressing the interlocks together with my fingers but switched to using my dead blow mallet and that worked a lot better. I think if I had stuck with my original method my hands would have been pretty sore the next day. The tiles weigh 6.7 pounds each and were delivered in 4 boxes. The price including delivery worked out to $3.27 per square foot, and guild members get a discount. First impressing are great, I like walking on it and I threw some sawdust down to see how it swept up and there was no problems there, but this may be different if its dust on the floor and you walk over it during the day and then you sweep it up. I will let you know how this goes. As far as rolling equipment around on the flooring, the only experience I have at this point is that I had to roll my band saw out of the way to ge that section down and then roll it back in place. Coming up over the edge of the tile took a little extra pull but once it was moving it went well and roll fairly easily in the rubber floor itself. I also had to move my jointer out of the way and then move it back and in this case half the wheels were on eh rubber tiles and half off and this was still easy to manipulate. Boxes the tiles came in. Two stacks of edge pieces, one of the corners and the centers are to the right mostly out of the picture. There is a right side up to the tiles and they make this easy on you by having some white numbers and notations on the bottom. The section between my drum sander and miter station on the right and planer and outfeed/assembly table on the left and looking toward the bandsaw. Around the bandsaw. Between the jointer and table saw, ending at the router table. I still need t take a minute and get the jointer moved closer to the edge of the floor. I had a couple of happy accidents, one the bottom drawer in this picture, I ended up with a little under 3/32 inch of clearance over the floor and the chop on the leg vice in the next picture had about an 1/8 inch. Between the router table and work bench. This is the type of shop stool I have and there is no problem with the way this rolls on the floor while sitting on it.
  20. 7 points
    I've cleaned up this thread. We have a "no jerk" policy here and it's there for a reason. I'll unlock this thread but, expect it to stay in the spirit that these forums are known for.
  21. 7 points
    Heres the outside so far Coop. Still got to mount it to the vacuum chuck and remove the tenon and and sand that last bit.
  22. 7 points
    Built this to spec from Christian Becksvoort's article in Fine Woodworking. Used some figured flame birch I got from Bell Forest a few years back. Funny, I've come a long way with hand tools since then and have learned appreciate the workability and subtleness of lumber vs. figure. The heavy figure and hardness of the birch was a nightmare. Planes were useless. All in all, came out nice. Cut the dovetails on the tablesaw with a square edged blade and cleaned up with a chisel. I don't have a special dovetail blade. Removing the waste on the pin board was more time consuming then I'd prefer. Also, you really need to pay attention. Every cut seems to be the opposite angle of what you expect and you can mess up quickly. I spent more time second and third checking than actually running the saw. Finish is Shellac, specifically 50/50 seal coat and DNA. Last coat went one with 25% mineral oil. Wiped off the residual oil after 24 hours and wet sanded with a Mr Clean magic eraser, mineral spirits and a few drop of dawn. I love matte shellac finishes. All in all very happy. Becksvoort said in the article it should last many generations...he clearly hasn't met my three boys. I give them 4 months.
  23. 7 points
    Work has been getting in the way. I just got to the top today and started applying finish. After this week the job that pays the bills should be less demanding. Found some crotch figure for the top. I did all the sanding with my #4s. There is a bit of tear out here and there and a plane track or two, i can only do so much but it beats sanding with an ros for hours.
  24. 7 points
    It's not paint but it accomplishes the same thing.
  25. 6 points
    This is the stump/burl from a walnut I dropped a few years ago.3 main trees came from it. Finally got the machines in to help get it out. Took a lot of work to get it here, and will be a lot more work to process now. The very center was a bit rotted out so we are chain saw chunking as many big blocks as we can, specifically trying to incorporate what will be the best grain.