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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/18/19 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    Slow going with whole kitchen remodel but got the walnut top finished. Thanks for all the advice and tips. After trying various stains and dyes on some scrap and on the bottom side of this slab it was decided to use NO stain and just polyurethane. I used Arm-R-Seal gloss to build up a few coats (used cotton cut up t-shirts) and finished it off with same brand polyurethane but in satin. I did not use plywood underneath. I attached top to cabinets using perpendicular to grain slotted boards and table fasteners (sort of an L shape) so that slab can move with changes to temp/humidity. The double edge pulls of the thick slab look nicely. Thanks again.
  2. 4 points
    Retired at 52, 66 now. My daughter asked me if I ever get bored, my answer was I have never been bored a day in my whole life. Hunt, hike, fish, travel, woodwork, too much to list. Even with all the money in the world what I would want is TIME, more time to enjoy my family, friends and all the things I love to do.
  3. 2 points
    I'm from MN, too. but I never could understand ice fishing. Maybe its just an excuse to have a beer while you wait for the fish.......
  4. 2 points
    I think the leg proportions are great. Is that the intended final location? Seems a shame to hide 2 sides in the corner.
  5. 2 points
    Here are all five holders with various blades. I even made drawer space for them next to my G&G square punches. I hope they get along OK; the drawer is officially a bit crowded. The black marks are where I had to grind the wood screws down since I only had 1" screws and the wood is 4/4 *shrug*
  6. 2 points
    I have one finger that points around the corner, I use that for the slash/angle.
  7. 2 points
    Let's see. Yesterday I finished up a Roorkhee chair I started in my turning class last semester. Kudos to Jason Thigpen at Texas Heritage Woodworks @txheritage for the outstanding leather package! Today I went down to Albuquerque to the ABQ Woodworkers Association to invite them to a Darrell Peart seminar and workshop we're hosting at Santa Fe Community College in April. Then I stacked more firewood most of the afternoon. And now I'm having a "glass" of wine.
  8. 1 point
    Enough space in the new shop for an assembly table.. Torsion box top, alder base, trimmed out in walnut
  9. 1 point
    I'm sure quality varies in Japan as it does anywhere. Personally, I'm not a fan of the short blade format. I like paring-length chisels for everything.
  10. 1 point
    Between Marc and everyone else the last 4-5 years, i feel like ive been slowly brainwashed into thinking japanese chisels are unequivocally the greatest thing in the world. I cant stomach $100+ a chisel and a 6 month lead time, so i kept my eye on the used circuits for awhile. Ended up buying a smorgasbord of used chisels over the weekend. I also just bought a set of PMV11s 3 weeks ago, and these eastern chisels will need to be pretty good to sway me from my western roots.
  11. 1 point
    Everyone else does . Those drawers are super handy. Blade & other wrenches, tilt box, a flashlight, pencils, miter-gauge add-ons, stop blocks, iBox, ZCI's, lions and tigers and bears - oh my! I don't think I do anything very clever inside those drawers. Let me go see if there is anything picture worthy . . . Meh! Pretty low-tech. Except for a few dividers, most of the stuff is large enough to just set there. Your dividers have got me thinking about my assembly table drawers though. They deserve some attention on the inside.
  12. 1 point
    I'm not the grammar police, but my planet is still turning.
  13. 1 point
    I finished my router table this morning, and after a bad fall on the ice yesterday dropping a 60 foot pine for my dad, I took it easy today and updated the build logs on my website. https://www.farback.ca/index.php/workshop-projects/24-gurkha-kukri-display-stand https://www.farback.ca/index.php/workshop-projects/25-crosscut-and-outfeed-tables-for-vintage-table-saw https://www.farback.ca/index.php/workshop-projects/26-router-table https://www.farback.ca/index.php/boat-shop/27-bear-mountain-redbird-canoe-2019
  14. 1 point
    You are a lucky man, and I completely agree. I wish I'd retired earlier. I'm living the dream now, working at part time jobs I enjoy, and enjoying time with kids and grandkids.
  15. 1 point
    Here’s the other thread- Good info in the other thread regarding bearings and more.
  16. 1 point
    I retired at 53 and turned 70 last week. I have not been bored to often in that time. The things that you did in 8 hourS seem to grow to 2 days. I will admit we full timed in a 5th wheel trailer for 10 of those years, but bottom line you can fill your days relatively easy.
  17. 1 point
    Too much for a 12". I would consider it if it was 16", but would have to look it over closely.
  18. 1 point
    Those are typically $1000 or less. I think another woodtalk forum member bought one months ago for $500. Maybe close to his price if its been restored, contemporary cutterhead, and it comes with a VFD etc.
  19. 1 point
    Vintage Industrial. If you don’t mind sourcing bearings that may be shot, they seem to be great machines. If you don’t like the maintenance of older tools, I’d deeply dig into what the current owner has done with the machine.
  20. 1 point
    I don't know much about them, but I believe Frank Howarth has a few JA Fay & Egan tools, and he seems to know his way around old iron. If they're good enough for him, I would have no hesitation...
  21. 1 point
    I got The Why and How of Woodworking for Christmas and quickly contracted kumiko fever. I hit a brief lull between projects and realized that I hadn't made anything for my own house since 2017, which is just unacceptable. I decided to make a kumiko lamp to replace a sad little Walmart lamp my wife and I have had ever since we got married. I started by making the jigs: Two jigs with a simple screwed-in stop in the right position. Snug enough on the sides to hold the kumiko piece in place. The kumiko is primarily ash, but the thinner pieces are white oak. It just happened that way with the scrap I had. I think it looks nice. Things were going great until I got a little TOO in the groove and a piece of white oak snagged on my chisel, and the chisel jerked out of place. Had to get four stitches in my left index finger. Not actually that bad of a cut, but it was weirdly shaped and I did not want it getting infected. I've cut my fingers before, and the wounds never seem to close up right without help. So at that point I took a week off. After it healed up, I got back on it! I decided I wanted a walnut frame. I had some walnut leftovers from my last project, so I The walnut is just simple mortise-and-tenon joinery. Super simple with a dado blade and hollow-chisel mortiser. The rails have a very slight rabbet that receives the kumiko panel. Not pictured is how I added a border to the outside of the kumiko so there is a nice border of light-colored ash around the edges. The top is not going to stay like that - I'll have to make something to hold it in place. Next up is to sand the kumiko panels until they're pretty. I'm also looking forward to getting to apply the rice paper to the inside of the panels. I'm going to use a thin double-sided carpet tape between the rice paper and the kumiko. I think it'll look pretty sharp! I still want to trim the legs a bit shorter, and I still want to put some sort of curve on the legs - something kind of like what Cremona did on his son's twin-size log bed's legs, if you remember that thing. Other than that, I have got a SWEET idea for the light installation. I bought some remote-controlled RGB LED strips that I'm going to adhere to a cylinder to basically create my own intense, huge, super-bright light LED light bulb. The rice paper should diffuse it enough that it will look incredible. This thing is going to be really cool.
  22. 1 point
    I have the last piece of butternut on the lathe, made two large bowl blanks by part it down the middle. Going to try to core one of them. Still have one big ambrosia left to work on. All my shelves are about full of rough turned bowls drying for the next step. Not sure where Id put any more.
  23. 1 point
    Even I don't take a Scrub plane iron that far. I do go through 8k though, since all the sharpening setup if right there to use. It will probably be used almost a whole day before it gets sharpened again though, and as the picture shows, it can be really dull, and still throw shavings two feet in the air. We use it to clean up old beams before putting a good edge into the wood. It's rarely used for flattening part of anything. A no.5 with an 8" radius camber usually gets the first call if a part of something needs to get run down before the no. 6's go to work. As another sharpening example, I really admire the understanding this guy has of what it takes, in amount of effort, to put into making something, but the sharpness, or lack thereof, of his handsaws, chisel, and even pencil lines, is like fingernails on a chalkboard to me.
  24. 1 point
    I don’t see the scrub as the same kind of tool. I am running it with huge camber and across the grain most often. It is half as wide and the camber means I may only be using half the width of the iron. I think mayb some don’t finely hone the scrub because it will still cut and push easily.
  25. 1 point
    Oh wait here's the pine, looks OK...
  26. 1 point
    I tried a few bits in pine and white oak. I figured the soft pine would be a bugger, but it's just Fluting and it worked well for my first attempt. The oak was a small, thin pièce but it worked well enough after I had a few strokes in. This seems easy enough so far. I forgot to take pics of the pine...
  27. 1 point
    This is supposed to look like Hack's holder, I need to make a custom blade for string grooves, which I can do with the LV blades, since they all have one end that's just straight.
  28. 1 point
    I found some O rings that fit between my ETS 150 sander and the Fein vac hose that I already had. Worked great that way for many years. Eventually I knuckled under and got a CT26. I had a bunch of onsite work to do and the HEPA filter plus the much lower noise made the choice easier. I reuse the bags a few times just to keep costs down.
  29. 1 point
    This is another reason to work safely, if you lose a finger you shop math goes all to heck.
  30. 1 point
    Love this comment: "Utility need not be ugly. "
  31. 1 point
    As stated, a drum sander faces some of the challenges of a planer. If the material is not supported so that it feeds along a consistent plane (the bed of the planer) you will get irregularities. One common one is a greater depth at the start and end of a piece of material (snipe). Like a planer's feed rollers, many drum sanders have only one pressure roller before and after the head roller. If the material is not supported the pressure rollers cannot prevent the material lifting into the drum prior to, or after, all three elements (infeed roller, drum and outfeed roller) are engaged. Imagine the material in this highly precise diagram feeding from left to right.
  32. 1 point
    I got the whole thing pretty well together. It took a little fiddling with the fit of the panels, and took a bit of creativity to get the homemade LED strip bulb mounted in such a way that would still allow me to retrofit a regular bulb later on if I so choose, but I got it! Disassembled it, put a ⅛” chamfer on all the edges, and then set out to figure out the solution to the last bit of this puzzle: how the heck to install that top panel. Due to the fact that I’ve kind of been winging it, the top ended up being a casualty. It’s a good bit too small. The square kumiko panel can’t work as is, so I am going to have to either remake it or modify it. It’s currently fudged into place on top of a larger kumiko frame that is large enough to rest on top of the rails. It’s not going anywhere right away, anyway. I’ve got to figure something out, though. So, for now, the project is on a hard pause. Since this project is for my own house, I have dry-assembled and pre-finished the entire lamp. For a lamp that will never be touched, the joinery alone is plenty to hold it together. I’m doing this because I’m uncertain about those legs. Are they too tall? I’m unsure. I’m also not even about to let that top be this lame when I call this one complete. So it gets to perch in the living room this week, looking finished but secretly still devoid of glue in the frame. I’ll mull it over.
  33. 1 point
    Well done, Colin! I appreciate the attitude, too. No reason to slack off, just because your materials aren't "premium".
  34. 1 point
    You're talking to us. How should we take that?
  35. 1 point
    Well, there's certainly lots of "vintage yo-yos" around here! You're not too far off yourself!
  36. 1 point
    Time for some storage to go in that assembly table!
  37. 1 point
    I was looking on CL last night, for some Heart Pine beams I could resaw some boards out of for an old house I'm working on. There are four different houses that I work on, that need replacement parts. One needs molded edge siding, one needs a whole room floor replacement, another needs wide hand planed boards, one needs some beaded edged ceiling joists, and floor above, and also some unusually large hand made bricks. There is also at least one complete replacement separate kitchen needed. A little after 9 last night, I found this ad listed among the Heart Pine ads. I called the seller right away, and being only 61 miles from my house, I was there by 10 this morning. It's like the hand of God plopped this house down, and said here's everything you need in one spot. Several of the old house owners are ready to buy the whole thing, but I have to get it worked out that the right parts go to the right places. Not shown in the CL ad pictures is the fireplace in the basement. It's stone, and the lintel is 9 feet long, a foot thick, and 21 inches tall. It's holding two other fireplaces above it on the other floors, and there is not a crack in it. That'll work for the 18th Century kitchen. The other two chimneys are brick, and almost exactly the right, unusually large size. The siding is an exact match for the missing boards on the 1798 house. https://richmond.craigslist.org/atq/d/phenix-antique-timber-frame-house-ca/6787346927.html And to top that off, the owners bought it years ago with the idea that they would restore it, and live there. Then life caught up to them, and they found out how much work, tools, and skill were required. They did however take all the plaster out, and completely clean it pretty good. That's the worst part of this type of dismantling already done! edited to add: I forgot. The boards I needed to resaw out of the beams I was looking for were to make some wainscoting replacements out of. I had given up on looking for wide enough boards like the originals that were still there in other rooms. Now, I won't even have to hand plane them.
  38. 1 point
    I got to work on a piece of cherry I got from a neighbor last year. It had a few bug holes in it and I filled a couple in the inner area with CA. Just got the topside sanded and a coat of danish oil buffed in. I love the flame figure running through it.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    It was an ex-trucker that found you a place to sell wood and have fun, so be nice to truckers. If it wern't for them you wouldn't own any overalls.
  41. 1 point
    Dave let me show you some mtn red cedar logs 12 ft long.
  42. 1 point
    I'm also building a roubo out of beams and I'm at about the same stage in the process... eyeing up the timber and deciding on what goes where. Not sure how clean your beams are but you may want to take a metal detector to them to find any surprises that may be lurking. I've had to perform minor surgery on mine to pull out a couple lag screws and nails.
  43. 1 point
    A bench is a great use of red oak. Keeps it out of the furniture supply stream
  44. 1 point
    Piece by piece. I'll leave the nails in the boards, cutting them off on the backs of the boards. They're all hand forged, and every head indented into the wood has a unique shape, so if we back the nails out, it will be way too much trouble to try to do anything that can't be seen, to tell the difference than if it had been where it ends up, from where it came from. A lot of it will be figured out as we go along, which is pretty standard operating procedure for me. Having the plaster, and lath gone, and the house cleaned out will make a tremendous difference. We should be able to haul loads away the first day. I have to build a shed to keep, and sort it in, until it can be used. Here's a picture of the fireplace in the basement. I figure that lintel stone probably weighs 3500 pounds.
  45. 1 point
    I agree that 3/4" material should be strong enough for a 12" overhang, especially with the corbels for added support. For appearance sake, I think you will still want to add the bands around the edge, to make it look thicker - this is the way laminate and solid surface countertops are usually built. Given that you still need something under there to make the connection to the cabinets, it might be just as simple to go with the plywood. And with the plywood, you wouldn't need the corbels, unless you want them for decoration. The corbels, while they might look nice, could be knee-knockers when you're sitting at the counter.
  46. 0 points
    76 now and retired 11 years ago. There was always something to do , always. Then my wife died. Now I have almost no interests. I'm thinking, it's the start of a downhill slide. Oh well, I've lived my life.