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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/24/19 in all areas

  1. 15 points
    I have been rather busy with my career for the past few months. I try to spend my free time working on projects, leaving me little time to interact with WoodTalk community. My hope is to make some time for WoodTalk forum this year. I have been reading posts but not posting much. So, it is time to get caught up. Here are some of the projects I have worked on since last June. I made two jewelry cabinets for my daughters. One is inspired by a box made by Matt Kenny. The second one is based on a design by Kyle Toth. I chose this project because I had just one board of sycamore. I added padauk and basswood complete the project. The above piece is made from QS sapele and tiger maple, with yellow poplar as the secondary wood. I made these Chippendale style mirrors to test out my new DeWalt scroll saw. The lumber here is Hoduran mahogany with pommele sapele veneer. It has a garnet Shellac spray finish. In going through my lumber collection, I found a single flame birch board. I decided to make a table for my daughter who is a fan of mid-century modern furniture. I saw a table like this one in Instagram and made my version of it. The big project for me was a chest of drawers based on an article in FWW. It is Japanese styling and I made it out of cherry. The main challenge was that the sides and front are both sloped by about 4 degrees. In the end, it turned out OK. I gave it to my son, who is in college. He has a keen appreciation for fine furniture. The back of the piece is probably overkill but it does look pretty. The finish on this piece is wash coat of shellac followed by 4 coats of Satin Arm-R-Seal. The hardware is hand forged. Thanks for viewing.
  2. 6 points
    Built this to spec from Christian Becksvoort's article in Fine Woodworking. Used some figured flame birch I got from Bell Forest a few years back. Funny, I've come a long way with hand tools since then and have learned appreciate the workability and subtleness of lumber vs. figure. The heavy figure and hardness of the birch was a nightmare. Planes were useless. All in all, came out nice. Cut the dovetails on the tablesaw with a square edged blade and cleaned up with a chisel. I don't have a special dovetail blade. Removing the waste on the pin board was more time consuming then I'd prefer. Also, you really need to pay attention. Every cut seems to be the opposite angle of what you expect and you can mess up quickly. I spent more time second and third checking than actually running the saw. Finish is Shellac, specifically 50/50 seal coat and DNA. Last coat went one with 25% mineral oil. Wiped off the residual oil after 24 hours and wet sanded with a Mr Clean magic eraser, mineral spirits and a few drop of dawn. I love matte shellac finishes. All in all very happy. Becksvoort said in the article it should last many generations...he clearly hasn't met my three boys. I give them 4 months.
  3. 5 points
    I've been wanting to build a hand tool cabinet for the last several years, since before I built the Roubo. I was originally looking at the cabinet by Mike P from FWW, but the form factor didn't fit my space, so there would be significant changes (and I never got around to it). Fortunately, the space that Matt Cremona has for his tool cabinet pretty much exactly matches the empty space I have on my wall. I figure it's fate telling me to build the cabinet. After my last build, I got a small pile of 8/4 hard maple to take home with me. I was originally going to put it on the lumber rack and buy new 4/4 for this build, but eventually decided that was silly. I don't have much wood storage, and I couldn't bring myself to go buy maple when I was trying to figure out what to do with this (and it's a perfect amount for the cabinet). Here's what I started with: I started by cutting some of the pieces down to rough length. I need to resaw it, then I'll be gluing it up to get the width on the main case. Now, I don't have a band saw, and everything here is six inches wide or less, so I used the table saw. The starting thickness was 1 3/4", so I should have at least 1/16" to plane off afterwards to get to a finished 3/4" thickness. All of the lumber was very flat and straight, although I had two pieces that released a bit of tension when I cut them apart. My process is to use a feather board, the riving knife, and to have good outfeed support. I had the rip blade in the saw and took 1" on the first pass, then 3/4" on subsequent passes, with the last one only being the last 1/4". I felt comfortable doing this, but I also felt prepared that the wood could release tension in the cut. After I finished, all the pieces for the main case were there along with some extras. I'll put them through the planer later, and then start gluing up the panels for the main case. I'm thinking I'll simplify the joinery a bit, and forgo the miters on the dovetails since I'm still new to hand cutting them. It looks like it should be a fun build. I may add some sapele accents to match the work bench, which it will be hanging over when complete.
  4. 3 points
    Got it finished. I think it turned out all right. I used baking soda mixed with distilled water and used multiple applications to darken the legs. If I build another one I’m going to orient the grain of the center section of the apron vertically so there will be a better match with the legs.
  5. 3 points
    Hello boys 'n girls, Another Minnesota guy here looking around for a good wood forum and it seems I've found just that. Been a serious hobbyist for nearly 40 yrs. w/a basement woodshop with modest tools. Got a bunch of wood from a few trees taken down, dragged to the sawmill and aired for a few years. That was over 25 yrs. ago and now I have to get past "falling in love" with many boards and saw 'em up. Seriously, it's an odd feeling... I love hand tools and handwork. Did a bunch of dovetailing a good while back and need to get some practice in again. In 1993 (or so??) I built a nice hard maple workbench from a FWW mag. article which I used to get every month for 30 yrs. and used Scott Landis' book on workbenches. The same one Frank Klaus built on the old Swedish Cabinetmakers style. One of the best tools in my shop! Anyway, glad I found this place. It seems there are a lot of knowledgeable folk here and believe me, that's so appreciated when a guy needs help. And I do, most times when trying new methods or needing info. on varied finishes etc. There's nothing like a good piece of wood....!
  6. 2 points
    Started this project back in the Fall, then got run out of my garage by the cold. Then I moved. Now I'm finally settled into my new studio workspace - love it. So, back at it. I really love this old sugar pine lumber, such amazing figure and grain. Been experimenting with exposed, loose-tenon joinery (as others have) (it's amazingly sturdy). I did it with another project a couple of years ago and really liked the effect. I still need to make the shelf, top, drawers, and doors. What do you think?
  7. 2 points
    Some of you may know but, I recently replaced the table saw for the shop. Here'a a little overview as well as why I made the decisions I did.
  8. 2 points
    In the 18 months since my last update I've made a couple of hundred corrections / updates / additions www.hobbithouseinc.com/wood_name_database/
  9. 2 points
    I don't see where it would be a problem. I think, and this is just my opinion, that whatever you make your workbench from is fine, if it's heavy does for you what you need to do. I have never thought that pretty in the shop is important. My feelings are that pretty goes out of the shop. Workability is to me the most important thing in the shop.
  10. 2 points
    Thank you all. When I began woodworking about 4-5 years ago, I had no idea what I was doing. I decided to make 100 pieces to get better at my hobby. I am at 47 projects now. I am getting better at making my projects but the more interesting aspect is that I am beginning to understand how design sense develops. I used to want plans and measured drawings, etc. Now, I just see a pic and it gives me ideas on how to make something. So, I hope to make about 50 more projects as I develop my own ideas on design. As I get better, it seems that projects takes less and less time to complete. I suspect this has to do with my shop set up and the tools that I have at my disposal. Anyway, thank you for all the kind words.
  11. 2 points
    Ya know bud, you're shaming almost all of us with that beautiful work.
  12. 2 points
    Ok, we'll forgive you for not chiming in for a while. All that work is worth it!
  13. 1 point
    Kev your shop is awesome! I would love to have the digital readout that sure beats having to get the wixley out every time.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks The hole is common in shaker furniture (from what I understand) for hanging on the wall. Really though, the hole is more ideal for picking up, moving, and supporting yourself as you step up/step down. It's actually quite awkward to really grab it any other way. I'm 5-8 and the hole is right where my hands fall by my side. You don't realize how convenient it is to not bend over to pick up a stool until you don't have to.
  15. 1 point
    I mean the easiest solution is to walk 10 feet to my windows computer. I should learn wine one of these days as well as VM. I've dabbled with VM before but that was back in single core days when it wasn't as feasible as it is now.
  16. 1 point
    Straight-grained red oak is a pleasure to work with, looks nice, and as mentioned can be stained to produce a wide variety of looks. The prominent grain can become overwhelming, especially in figured pieces. And I'm pretty certain that staring at a sheet of rotary-cut oak plywood can trigger a seizure.
  17. 1 point
    It has stopped raining here, I think we got around 8”- 9” or so.
  18. 1 point
    It would move, but I would still like it. The real Roubo workbench tops were just one slab of wood. Calling these modern workbenches "Roubo's" grates on my nerves even more than the metal handwheels.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Jeremy and welcome to the forums!
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    and for that matter, mayhaw IS in there. Don't understand how you missed it.
  24. 1 point
    Looking forward to this Brian. Are you following the guild build or just grabbing information from his free stuff? I built my kitchen cabinets and more recently my dining table from red oak. I like how they came out and pretty much don't care what anyone else thinks of the species.
  25. 1 point
    Great stuff as always Wade. Glad to see you are staying off the streets and out of trouble.
  26. 1 point
    Congrats on the PM Kev. You'll totally love it. In my small basement shop I stepped up to a PM Model 66 20 yrs ago and it was one of the best decisions I've made. I'm simply a hobbyist w/a small room (1/3 the basement) and put mine on a moveable base (which I've never moved!!!). Even on the base that saw is so smooth I've balanced a nickel on edge and turned the saw on/off for some friends - who didn't believe me - and the coin never fell over! She's super smooth and extremely reliable. 3 H.P. 220v, not the bigger saw. And that fence is awesome!! You'll love her!
  27. 1 point
    I would suggest calling or get in touch with @Spanky in Tennessee. He has some stuff you won’t find in Texas and I just received my second delivery from him via motor freight. Pm me for his phone number if you are interested and can’t get in touch with him on here. If you have your own trailer, you can’t beat his prices.
  28. 1 point
    This is going to be sweet! Looking forward to the build!
  29. 1 point
    Ken and Jeremy, welcome to the forum. Glad to have both of you!
  30. 1 point
    Signed, sealed and ready for delivery.
  31. 1 point
    Love it Coop. Plenty of room under those hooks for long coats. Great design.
  32. 1 point
    That's what the cross strap is for - relieves the front stretcher pressure. Very comfy! Yes. No glue so it conforms to the floor.
  33. 1 point
    Thanks Hidden screws. The screws were key to pulling the top and sides together. Turned the plugs.
  34. 1 point
    Hi Jeremy! Glad to have you join the party!
  35. 1 point
    Love the bureau. Very pleasing, subtle wood grain choice you made there. I dislike flashy contrasting woods and grain patterns that are too much and don't grow with you over time. Nice work.
  36. 1 point
    Very smart choice on the saw and the shop looks great.
  37. 1 point
    I'm looking forward to this. I just built mine a couple of years ago, and would like to see how you come to your conclusions. I admit, I built mine out of the hated "Red Oak", but it works quite well.
  38. 1 point
    Nice video as always. I like the saw. I really like the large round shutoff button. It should be real easy to find quickly when the occasion arises!
  39. 1 point
    Nothing wrong with that Grizz machine Richard! I nearly went that direction again!
  40. 1 point
    I am so jazzed today! Check out my new toy, er, tool! Yes, my wife knows about it! Hahahaha
  41. 1 point
    Apparently it's a Woodings-Verona adze. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-WOODINGS-VERONA-ADZE-Ship-building-Timber-Hewing-NPRY-/173527534030 Edit: yep, that logo's been registered by a WOODINGS-VERONA TOOL WORKS (Verona, Pennsylvania) according to this Canadian trademark site.
  42. 1 point
    Welcome Ken. A lack of tools just means you need to be a little more creative in you thinking in how to go about a task. Once you get more tools the things you learned to do with out them now become options instead of the only way you can do things.
  43. 1 point
    Hi Ken! Don't worry about your shop being "modest". A little knowledge, and a little experience, will let you make lovely furniture without breaking the bank on tools. Some here have nicer arrangements than others, but we all have something to share.
  44. 1 point
    If he would have painted that beautiful piece we all would have gone to Texas and had an “intervention” to set him straight
  45. 1 point
    One trick we boat builder's use is to place a small chunk of end grain is a small saucer of rubbing alcohol. If it is Red oak it will immediately suck up the alcohol through the grain and by capillary action seep out the topside of the piece. White oak is much more tight and will not do that so readily. Try it, it's kinda fun to watch./
  46. 1 point
    I routinely Re saw 1/8" shopsawn veneers on my Rikon bandsaw and sand them all nice and flat with my 19-38 drum sander. I wouldn't worry too much about going down to 1/16"
  47. 1 point
    Thanks. My wife thinks so as well Regards from Perth Derek