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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/25/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I managed to get all the internal joinery on the case fit together, and did a dry fit. It's starting to look like something now. I had some minor hiccups getting it together, but only one loose joint that I'll need to fix. I think I may use hide glue for the glue up, since some joinery is a bit tight. I find that makes it easier to put together. Now if I could only figure out my plan for the doors. I can't find a good source for veneer here. My ideal would be either figured maple or ribbon stripe sapele. I may end up giving up and just buying a sheet of maple plywood so it matches - that's certainly a lot cheaper.
  2. 2 points
    Its coming to life. The splines add a cool look. I have tool hangers on the inside and outside of my doors but, they do remain closed when I'm not working in order to control the environment.
  3. 2 points
    Its looking good Brian. Can you source regular sepele and resew your own veneer. 1/8 thick and glue to 1/4 inch birch ply.
  4. 2 points
    Nice looking project. These doors are 2" wide vertical veneer strips over solid material. I'm not totally pleased with it, but there have been no problems.
  5. 2 points
    Still not to the doors or drawers yet, but here’s where we are at!
  6. 1 point
    The ray flakes seem too numerous / strong / long for mahogany but believable for sapele. The wood in the full carcass does not appear to be the same wood as the drawer. Is it? Can you get a closeup of the carcass where it shows cathedral grain?
  7. 1 point
    Just visited the site Yes a hardness in the mid 60s is a hard steel that will probably last longer. The major downside to harder steels is taking longer to sharpen and also is more brittle. Tossing this in a tool box maybe chip the edges so some sort of protection would be wise. If being stolen was a problem before that problem is only going to get worse in my opinion.
  8. 1 point
    I'm unfamiliar with Mahogany but that ray fleck looks a lot like QS cherry or QS maple. I didn't think that Mahogany produced such effect but i don't have a lot of experience with it.
  9. 1 point
    I’m going with the mahogany family.
  10. 1 point
    I think you'll get this figured out. I can't remember the details on Danish Oil but you may not have given it enough time to cure if you did a heavy application. As with a lot of coatings generally thinner is better. If you are transition from one finish to another it's good to make sure those finishes are compatible. If in doubt a coat of Zinser Seal Coat Between different finishes will help. Seal coat is dewaxed shellac and i haven't found something that it doesn't stick to yet. Seal Coat may be an option for the place you are at now. Make sure to give everything a few days to cure completely and also if you did use olive oil and soapy water you'll want any residue removed. Denatured alcohol is the route i'd go. If this was my bathroom i'd do a light coat of seal coat on the veneer and then do 3-4 coats of wipe on poly or Arm R seal. I'd go with a finer sand paper something like 400 for between coats. I've found that 220 works but it sometimes leaves scratches that you can see after. If you get little finish globs n the paper it needs to cure longer. I usually give at least 12 hours between coats. Finish is a patients game and trying to rush it will lead to disaster. My opinion is once you start dealing with tints/dyes/stains a spray application is best as it avoids blotching and uneven coloring. This is usually outside the capabilities of a beginner and requires spray equipment and a good place to use it.
  11. 1 point
    You've done such a nice job on the cabinet so far I think making the extra effort on the doors will leave you pleased for years. You will see them every time you walk into your shop. For me my bench is that way. I spent $300 on the 12/4 Sapele board for the chop and end cap was it necessary? absolutely not but I can guarantee you every time I walk into the shop I think damn that's a nice looking bench
  12. 1 point
    Really nice! I like the use of thicker wood for the case!
  13. 1 point
    Looking good. Serious question though: Why spend a lot of time or money on what the exterior doors will look like? Don't most of these cabinets just end up staying open the vast majority of the time?
  14. 1 point
    Ooh, just realized something else, too! Since I'm wanting to have just simple solid wood doors on knife hinges, I'm going to have to have the grain run vertically like a normal door panel - that way any movement would not upset the hinges by binding them tighter or pulling them looser. If I put the grain so that movement will occur along the width, the worst that could happen is a tight door in the summer or a wide gap in the winter, but if I were to put the grain so that expansion occurred vertically, I could blow the case apart if I were careless -Tricky tricky! I feel like my question was silly now. Always learning.
  15. 1 point
    This was a fun build, and it really shows off Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple. I was inspired to do this piece after seeing some nice buffet designs and builds on this site. Why would a buffet design inspire this piece, well this piece will match my future buffet table/cabinet! I also plan to build a matching liquor cabinet to match this piece. That liquor cabinet is just getting started and if I can get my act together I wanted to post a journal with that. Now for those that have seen some of my work, you know I lean more toward a Maloof/sculptured design. I had to incorporate some flowing lines in this piece but it's a lot more traditional than Maloof stuff. I still find this look appealing. Spanky's curly ambrosia really looks great with the walnut, and my liquor cabinet will incorporate these two woods also. Fully stocked in this photo; Drawer dovetail were handcut and run on a center guide. Really like the way these woods work together; From the side view you can really appreciate the curves in this piece; Thanks for looking.
  16. 1 point
    Even though I needed a finishing system, I have a hard time spending money if I don't have to, so I took the idea I found and put it together with some things I had on hand, + less than $100 in new parts. I had a Sunex spray gun, a pressure canner, a 200 psi regulator, and some air hose, all from yard & auction sales in past years. I bought a few fittings, a 15 psi fuel pressure gauge, and some tubing and put together my "new" spray system. My ventilation system was made with lumber, a 3/4 hp motor, and a furnace fan, all from past sales. I bought some filter material from a cabinet shop I install with. Right now, my spray area isn't enclosed. I might have to build an enclosed room if I have trouble with dust.
  17. 1 point
    Here's what I do, very simple and it was inspired by Krenov's readings. I always have some sitting around, roughed out and in need of rasp work and hand sanding. Start with some nice figured leftovers about 3/4" thick, make sure you have a clean jointed surface, this is the surface that you glue and screw to the drawer front. Make sure your grain is vertically oriented; Make some simple patterns you like; Cut out; And throw in a container for future refining and use; I like to have depressions all the way around the knob portion of the pull, this way it is easy to grab. Hope this was helpful.
  18. 1 point
    Or as we used to see on TV when putting screws into hardware, use a cordless drill, run it all the way in until it stops, and then hit it one more time to make sure it's stripped. The good design of the hanger bolts allows you to put the lag screw end into the wood correctly, and then any tightening of the leg to the table is done with the nut on the machine threaded end of the hanger bolt.
  19. 1 point
    The spiraling level of integrity of the human race continues to haunt me. This person had no problem with you wasting a 3 hour round trip for him to tell you he sold it already!?! Disturbing. I would lose sleep over treating someone so disrespectfully but, I'm old To your question as to what to look for with the saw unplugged: General signs of abuse. If a machine looks to have been ridden hard I dig pretty deep or adjust my offer. Things move as they should. Table adjusts. Throat plate and table pin present Wheels turn freely. Bearings, mountings and motor shaft are slop-free. Mobility kit is in good condition, if present. Guide post moves as it should. Easily. Follows a true path. Blade guides are present and fully functional. Blade tensions and runs reasonably true. Blades and tires are easily replaced so condition is not critical until you turn the saw on ;-) Plug the saw in: 'Electricals' function. Motor. Lights, if any. Top wheel adjusts easily for tracking. Functions properly under the stress of cutting Hope that helps.
  20. 1 point
    Most torque specs state "Tighten until you strip the threads and then back off 1/4 turn."
  21. 1 point
    I live in a very small universe, generally speaking.
  22. 1 point
    I have learned to read between the lines. Allow me to translate; what she was really saying is that she is "so pleased that you were rewarded for all your hard work with such a long run of enjoyable activity in the shop" Since I have a day-job, folks wait 6 months or more for a dresser. A year for something for my own home sounds about right