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  1. 15 points
    Loving the fact that Coop just posted a great Maloof Low Back Chair. Always happy to see other sculptured pieces on here. Just finished this Walnut Maloof Rocker, as I've stated before, my hands down favorite all time woodworking project. This is my third rocker and my first in walnut. I started this rocker the last week in April, and it was a double build, meaning I am building 2 at the same time. The other rocker is cherry and it's still in the shop waiting for final assembly and final sanding. For those that have done these, you know that final sanding is no small or simple step. My sanding goes to 400 grit before applying finish and I use 0000 steel wool to apply a few coats of the finish. My finish of preference is 3 coats oil/poly mix followed by 2 coats oil/wax mix. Didn't use Osmo for this rocker, but I will likely try that on a rocker in the future. This build went very smoothly, minimal issues. I've have some small details I'm learning to refine with this build, I'll try to point out those small details, but for the most part it looks like most other Maloof rockers. Countless times I've looked up this rocker online and through other venues, and it's easy to make this piece look clunky. I've seen it done with flawless woodworking technique, but it didn't look organic, flowing, or inviting. Hopefully you don't think that when you look at this piece. A perfect pose, the rocker next to a Maloof style table with a Maloof book to inspire you. A few details I like in these rockers. First, I really like the horns, these are time consuming to develop, but worth it in my opinion. Die grinder does a lot of the work, then a lot of scraping and sanding; The crest of the head rest needs to flow into the front of the horn, you can see the line from the front edge of the horn detail blend into the top edge of the head rest. Head rest and horn from the front, again a line that needs to flow; The underside of the headrest to back leg is also an area that takes a lot of work to blend. A rasp and a lot of hand sanding is the only way to get this done. I like the middle of the headrest to project down, I like this look much better than the continuous sweep you see in a lot of the rockers; This side view of the head rest shows the sweep and contours; The arm to back leg joint is pretty straight forward and easy to shape. Key is to make it look fluid and continuous. The interesting part of this joint is on the inside. This is a common feature seen in the original chair that is often duplicated. This gives the look as if the arm was carved from the back leg. The arm to front leg joint takes a lot of work, as you have end grain and long grain you are blending together. I don't like the big paddle shaped arms you often see on most of these rockers. I like a more narrow arm and with it converging more as it approaches the back leg. The shaping of the arm is a lot of work also, but Marc does a great job in his build guiding one through the process. So much is made of the leg to seat joint in this piece. I find that to be pretty straight forward when you use the paired router bits. Shaping these joints are harder than doing the joint. And this by far is the toughest area to shape. Finally, the leg to rocker joints. The joints that give me the biggest pucker factor. Drilling thru the rocker into the back leg, after you have spent weeks on the chair is the absolute most tense moment of this build. The good thing is after you have shaped the whole chair, shaping the legs to the rocker is one of the easiest areas to shape. The detail I add in the front is from Marc's build and I like it, you leave a little extra in front of the leg to converge that excess into a point, sweeping up from the underside and in from the sides. Thanks for looking.
  2. 14 points
    I started this a good while back but chose not to do a build on it as I figured it might go into the fire pit at anytime during the build and it came close several times. My daughter asked for a chair for her desk and I have always wanted to try it so I gave it a go. Initially it was going to be built from some walnut I cut and dried and I figured I would do a prototype from some cherry. After several months of wrestling with it, I don’t foresee a walnut chair in the future. Plans were ordered from Charles Brock and I picked up several pointers from Marc’s rocking chair build. Three coats of ARS glossy and three coats of GF top coat. The only places I’m not real pleased with are the arm to leg joints.
  3. 14 points
    Here is the piece I have been working on these last few weeks. (Thanks again to those who helped me with a couple of urgent matters that arose). I have a few name ideas I'm considering, but haven't settled on one yet. I plan to take this to the American Association of Woodturners meeting later this month, so I have a little time on that. Technique is the same as I have described before, although this time I cut back the sides to slim the pillars and accentuate the shape.
  4. 14 points
    Well I dove into the deep end of the pool tonight and entered my first piece (Jewelry Chest) into the Minnesota Woodworkers Guild annual Northern Woods Exhibition April 25-28th This is way out of my comfort zone but in an effort to push myself even further in my woodworking I thought it might be helpful to get feedback from woodworkers much more talented than I as well as from the public. Here's hoping I don't regret this LOL
  5. 12 points
    Just completed this table/bookcase. Made from white oak. Was my first adventure in through tenons. Think they turned out pretty good. Finish was a challenge, tried some tinted shellac, and then bailed out on that. Went with just a oil based stain then some wipe on poly. This will go to the entry way at church to hold bulletins, hand outs and some books.
  6. 12 points
    Last week I got to fulfill something on my bucket list. I was able to spend a week taking a class with Chuck Bender working on a Massachusetts serpentine chest. Last August I was diagnosed with prostate cancer, and when the shock wore off, the only thing that I could think that I would like to do would be to take a woodworking class with a professional. Thankfully surgery went well, and after 2 check ups since, no more cancer. While I was home recuperating I stumbled upon Chucks blog and saw that he had moved back to Jim Thorpe Pa. and was offering classes. The minute I saw the picture of the chest I knew I wanted to take the class. Had to borrow from my 401k to swing it but having just hearing a doctor tell me I had cancer I figured I can't take it with me. Chuck is one of the nicest people I have met. Very patient teacher, great sense of humor. And oh, an amazingly talented woodworker. We weren't able to finish the chest in the 5 days and Chuck graciously offer for us to come back on a weekend in November so that he could help us finish. Thank goodness because I definitely don't have the skills yet to finish the chest on my own. Just kinda wanted to share as I felt like this was a big step forward in woodworking for me and this was the first forum. I ever participated in.
  7. 12 points
    My wife requested a side table for the family room. This will be situated between two arm chairs, and replace the small table (which is too high and dominating) ... Not just a side table, but it also needed to house her needlework thingies. In other words, shallow drawers for cotton reels and sewing kit. I played around with several ideas, and eventually came up with a design that borrows a little from a piece I recently made. Lynndy liked the softness of the rounded dovetails and overall dimension of this coffee table I built some months back for a nephew ... The plan (looking down) would be to create a curved front and back, with round, splayed legs to the outside (an alternative is a straight, tapered round leg) ... In contrast to the Jarrah in that piece, the carcase will be built in Hard Maple, dovetailed and mitred at each corner. It will feature 8 drawers. All drawer fronts will curve as well. The reason for "Harlequin" in the title is that the drawers will be a mix of woods, as depicted in the elevation of the drawer section ... A harlequin design is often thought of as a diamond pattern, but does also include a rectangular checkerboard. Anyway, it's just a name, and I like giving my pieces a name At this stage I have chosen for the drawer fronts Black Walnut and Blue Gum. I may also add in Hard Maple. Always interested in your thoughts here. The Blue Gum is lighter than the Black Walnut and is a good foil against the Hard Maple … The legs will taper and curve from the carcase, attached with a loose mortice and tenon ... The sides and top were arranged so that the grain flowed continuously. The carcase is 20mm thick, 800mm long and 350 at the wide, centre point .. The initial dovetail plan was to keep the boards parallel and saw the curves later. It became apparent when joining the first set that this would not work ... .. there would be too much at the sides to mitre, and so I decided to shape the top and bottom panels at this stage rather than later. This was the first opportunity to use the modification I made to my Moxon vise (see article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/NewMoxonMods.html). It now enables the pin- and tail boards to be clamped together to aid in marking out (see earlier photo). In marking out for mitred corners, the side tails are not sawn out from the front ... ... the board is reversed, and the mitres are marked ... ... and sawn ... The reason I had wanted to retain square carcase sides was that it would make it easier to square the chisel guide for the mitres. I got around this by squaring them to the front of the carcase ... The pin board is seen here ... One of the difficulties in fitting this many tails and pins is that any slight errors are magnified. The fit below illustrates that the left side is too tight ... To deal with this, the tails were given a pencil scribbling ... Fitting the board together left this behind ... This process needed to be done once more, before the fit was satisfactory ... The four sides were dry fitted together, and the front and rear upper and lower panels planed to shape (this was close but not enough) … All is coplanar … Where we are up to at the end of today … One set of mitred corners … … and the other … Next up is building the internal dividers for the drawers. Regards from Perth Derek
  8. 12 points
    Fairly simple monitor riser I made for my desk at work. I used a lot of suggestions from you guys on this project. All in all this simple thing took an incredible amount of time. Not only because life has been extremely busy which makes getting shop time hard but because I am apparently just a slow woodworker. I would love to just chalk my slowness up me always trying new techniques and joinery for the first time but if I am honest with myself I just don't have a very fast pace. But I suppose the slow pace is a good percent of the enjoyment for me. I have a stressful job and two young kids so I am "GO GO GO" all the time. Getting to take her easy in the shop is often needed. So if you can't tell from the angle this is red oak. Specifically it is that really wide board on top of the pile. That was about 11" wide. I got that pile for $100 from some guy on OfferUp. It was a really good deal that I felt that I could not pass up, but I am actually not that big of a fan of red oak. I find the natural color to be a bit bleh and I really don't like the tiger stripe effect that happens when staining red oak. But I have a pile of it so I decided that I just need to find a way to like it. I only have a 6" jointer so the only way to flatten this board with my current set of tools will be by hand. I just needed to get one side flat enough to run through the planer. This board has some challenges. It is cupped and bowed. Not only bowed but bowed in two directions, kind of like a very subtle letter "S". It also has reversing grain. Boy was I in over my head here. I have never tried to flatten a board this wide, and I have never tried to flatten a board this long. But I have the tools to do it so I grabbed my scrub plane and got after it. I tried and tried to get this darn board flat across it's entire length but I just have not quite developed the skill to do that on such a long wide board. What I ended up doing was cutting the board shorter. A shorter board is easier to flatten than a long board. My intent was for this riser to be around 70" long, I had to throw that out the window if I wanted to use this board. But I got it done eventually. I used the table saw to cut the miters, I taped them real good to create a tape hinge. The clamping setup was a bit awkward and I actually applied a little too much clamping pressure and pulled the tape hinge on one side open just a bit. I hit you guys on these forums up on what to do to fix it. You guys gave me the burnisher technique which worked like a charm. Thanks for that everyone. While the glue was drying on the miters I milled and fit the "front". I cut the angles by hand just to see if I could do it (I also had plenty of red oak in case I screwed it up) and to my surprise it worked great. For the dividers/supports I wanted to use a dado joint instead of just a butt joint....you know.....because I'm fancy. I also wanted to try cutting these by hand all Derek Cohen style. Now I don't have Derek's Azbiki saw. And I don't have Derek's cool magnetic saw guide. Nor do I have his experience. Or skill. Or know how. So needless to say these did not turn out quite as nice as Derek's hand cut dados do in his build journals. But they turned out ok. One was just a bit tighter than I would have liked. The other one was a bit looser than I would have liked. Both of them were not as clean as I would have liked. But these are on the underside so who cares. They are solid and look good from the front. I had left these supports/dividers a bit long so I needed to trim them down. I decided that cutting these by hand would be much quicker than pulling out my table saw and cleaning it off so taking great care I marked the line and got to cutting. This is a longish cut to do free hand for me so I was nervous about it. I wanted to cheat and cut on the waste side of the line by a lot then just plain down to the line, but Chrisopher Shwarz (my favorite woodworker.......and spirit animal) says that "If you can see the line, you can cut to the line, any line." So I put on my big boy pants and gave it shot. Turned out not too bad. Just had to clean them up a little bit with the plane. Why am I including such a small detail like cutting a couple of boards? I'm not sure why but these cuts were a big deal to me. For me, half the joy of woodworking is learning the skills. So being able to free hand a long cut like this meant a lot to me. I'm far from an expert or anything close to being an expert but pulling off this cut was the proof in the pudding that I am learning the skills. You know the whole dopamine reward of setting a goal for yourself and achieving it thing. This was one of those small things that meant a lot. Glued in the dividers and glued on the front. Now I need to figure out how to finish this red oak in a way that I would not hate it. I decided I wanted to try tinting shellac. So I went to Woodcraft and bought some shellac flakes and some Transtint dye. Then I went to a thrift store and got super lucky, the first thrift store I went to had a digital food scale, a coffee grinder and glass jars. Now to teach myself how to shellac! I tried lots of different combinations on some scraps. I tried using a sealer coat then the dyed shellac over that. I tried using just dyed shellac. Shellac with just a little bit of dye. Shellac with lots and lots of dye. Just about all of these combinations ended up with tiger striping. I took all these samples to work to see which would look best with my desk. I was not trying to match my desk I just wanted a color/tone that would compliment it. And you know what combination looked the best? No combination. Just regular amber shellac with no dye at all. Shellac has a bit of a learning curve but I think I got it. I wish this picture did this justice. The amber shellac makes this red oak glow. So I think I may have found a way to like red oak after all. Which is good because I have a lot of it. Last I am adding a slot for cable management. Doing this after finishing was a huge mistake. I was so nervous the whole time that I was going to scratch the crap out of it. But I was extremely careful and got through it without incident. Chopped out the waste with a chisel. Then hit the whole thing with steel wool then finally a coat of wax. I don't remember where I heard that you should wax everything but I am so glad that I heard it. Wax just makes whatever finish I do better. And with that I was done. Just needed to bring it to work and take some glamour shots. So here they are. Thanks for checking out this small build. Of course suggestions and criticisms are welcome, just be gentle I have a fragile ego.
  9. 12 points
    This was a tough project for me, and a small tribute in my way to Krenov. Rickey's (aka Spanky) curly ambrosia maple is the star of this show and makes me look better than I am. I've said before casework is not my favorite, I've leaned more and more to the sculptured stuff the past few years. But I'd have to say this project was not only a joy to make but a real challenge. Along with the above comments, I really wanted this to be a project journal. I've come to believe when you show your work as you are doing it, you become better from the experience. I also love following project journals and I'm bummed there have been fewer and fewer on here. I didn't want to be part of the problem. And no, I'm not a facebook guy and I'm not moving over to that format, won't do it. Ok, so here goes. I did a wine cabinet a month ago, it turned out well and I had planned to use the basis of that design to make a new liquor cabinet and buffet table. The old ones I have now were made by me 20 years ago and have held up well, but are blocky and unrefined. These will be great to pass on to the kids as they move out. But I wanted to update and get more refined pieces now that my skill level has started to progress. This cabinet has the same flow and leg contours as the wine cabinet had. It's 4' high and about 30" wide. It's made out of walnut I harvested and milled my self and some beautiful curly ambrosia maple that I got from Rickey. Here are a few pictures in production stage. I took these when I thought I could still get this in a project journal. This is a pic of a side of the cabinet, the 2 legs are attached to a panel with dados via loose tenons (aka Dominos). A view of dry asembly, the second pic shows I put 3 cross supports dovetailed intro the side panels. For the drawers I used a center guide rail, I like the simplicity of this and the predictability of this; Pic with the underside of the drawer; The doors were a challenge, and I'm not the best at them. I posted on these in regards to what hinge to use. I settled on a simple solution, but I do wish I attempted a offset knife hinge. My opening wasn't perfectly square. When I put the doors in with just dry assembly, here's what I got; The gap between the doors closes when the top hinges are placed. So I used hide glue for the longer set time and for my ability to manipulate the joint; I put blue tape in the opening to prevent an "issue". Here's a pic with the top hinges in place, presto no gap left; I let these doors sit in place until the hide glue cured. Then I hand planed the hinge side of the door to develop a uniform opening from top to bottom. Since I used a no mortise hinge I needed a slight gap for the hinges. Here's the final assembly, notice the matching figure of the 2 drawers fronts; The back is shiplapped sassafras, love the smell. Did not put a finish on this. Here's a pic of the door tenon/mortise joint, a little tearout on the tenon but still a nice fit; Custom pulls that turned out great; Grain match was ok, but wasn't a knockout; The cabinet in place; Handcut dovetails in the drawers; Fully stocked! Thanks for looking!
  10. 11 points
    I've posted previously that we were very fortunate to host Darrell Peart for a weekend workshop a couple of weeks back. The seminar was great. I know everyone left with a better understanding and appreciation for what all goes into a Greene and Greene style piece. I had been planning on making a side table for the Morris chair I finished last year and thought the Fremont night stand would be a great piece to go with it. Unfortunately the space isn't wide enough to fit it in, so I'm thinking maybe Darrell's Tercet table might work better. In the meantime, we have a file cabinet that doesn't go with anything else in the room. I've modified the Guild's Fremont night stand plans to use as a file cabinet replacement as my next project. Line drawing elevations: I'm going back and forth on deciding whether to have the doors swing open or be attached to the file drawers behind them. I have a space limitation on the left door swing, so I may attach them. Back view Side view CNC router cut templates. Starting the rough milling process. The thicker stock is 9/4 so I'll resaw it down to yield the 6/4 final thickness for the legs and use the thinner cutoff for the drawers. The wider 4/4 boards will get resawed for veneering the panels. My plan is to use traditional wooden runners for the upper drawers and Blum undermount Blumotion slides for the file drawers. Should be a fun project for me!
  11. 11 points
    Finished up the Fremont File Cabinet this morning. More hours in it than I had anticipated, but I'm happy with the results and I learned a great deal. Thanks to Marc and Darrell for the great video and detailed Guild build!
  12. 11 points
    Progress! I've applied finish (ARS) and mounted the doors. The doors aren't perfect by any means. I screwed up when gluing up the outer doors. I didn't follow Matt's advice to use the main cabinet as a template for gluing the doors to ensure consistent geometry. I simply forgot to do it in my rush to get them glued up. The end result is that outer doors are slightly out of square relative to the inner doors and main cabinet. Having said that, they hang and swing nicely, so overall I'm happy. As well my drawers are recycled from a previous project, so they don't fit exactly, but are fully functional. I still have to make all the tool holders, but at least it's on the wall now...
  13. 11 points
    Had to replace my hard drive which put me way behind on updating this project. I'll get to it soon. In the meantime - I'm really happy that I talked myself into the 16" jointer over the 12". Pretty much at capacity! And the surface finish is really nice - no tearout (cutters are still on the original edge after 1 1/2 years of use) and lots of chatoyance! Love this machine!
  14. 11 points
    Well @Spanky here it is at long last, something from that piece of box elder you gave me. When I got the protective paint off the original piece of wood there were some natural cracks and bark inclusions that dictated cutting out a smaller piece of wood to turn. Ultimately "A Different Angle" was made from the "filet" of the board, but as I was trying out ideas and cutting the board down I decided that I really liked the wedge shape of the blank and would try to incorporate that. There are a couple of small irregularly shaped fragments left over that might still become something in my shop or I may give some to a member of my club who puts together fragments of wood for his blanks. Once I had the fillet, I turned it round and then knowing what I would be working with I did some sketches. These were mostly Ogee forms. I showed these to Marcia who looked at them for a moment and then said "Why don't you do a diamond". To which I spluttered " That's a terrible idea" and, after blathering a bit more, "I'll sketch it and show you". Then after eating my hat, I went to the workshop and turned it. Here's some other views: It's definitely a different shape, but I like it.
  15. 10 points
    I made this for my niece's new baby boy. Just a small box from Wenge and Oak. I was trying to come up with something a little different for a handle on the lid... his name is Noah.
  16. 10 points
    I am starting a project that I have been thinking about for years and for different reasons have been putting of. My Dad served in WWII in the Navy and my Father in law was a career Navy man and veteran of WWII, Korea And Viet Nam. I have both of there flags and have wanted to build cases for them both but really wanted to do something a different from the normal looking cases. I have spent a lot of time thinking about this and worrying that I would finish them and then come up with a better idea... time wasted sort of. Then this last November my youngest sister lost her husband in a car accident. He also spent four years in the Navy and then almost 40 more working as a government employee with the Navy in weapons development and that is all he could tell us. All three of them were true God and Country men. When my sister asked me to make a case for his flag I figured it was time to get of my duff and do all three at once. I have come up with some design ideas and made a couple of proto types out of poplar to kind of work out the details and to see if what was in my head would actually look good and work. All three will be the same and made out of Sapele. I went to the lumber yard today and got this really nice of 8/4, 10 inches by 12 feet piece. Did my rough layout and then broke it down using my jigsaw. Then over to the band saw to rip it to rough width and then resew it to rough thickness. After that I sticker it all and I am going t let it set for a few days to see if it wants to move in any way. I honestly don't think it will, while I was breaking it down to this point I didn't get the feeling I was releasing and tension. But you never know.
  17. 10 points
    Some final pictures. The finish I used on these is a coat of garnet shellac that I wiped on, then three light coats of General Finishes High Performance Satin. These are not something that gets "used or handled" so I think light coats will be plenty. It was more a process of getting all the raised grain and dust nips taken care or I probably could have stopped at two coats. The one on the left is my dad's, the one in the back ground and missing the flag is for my sister's husband, I will be taking it a little road trip to deliver it along with an album of the build. And the one on the right is my father in law's. When I did the engraving I did it in the same format and wording that is on each of their military head stones. A few pictures of some of the details.
  18. 10 points
    next was over to the mortise machine to put in 2 1/4 X 1/4 by 5/8” deep mortise and one in the center 1/4” by 1/2” long in the center, over to the router to remove the material in the center (underneath) at 1/2” depth, several passes and depth adjustments got this done, this will allow light to shine thru and also serve as a vent for the heat
  19. 10 points
  20. 10 points
    I was planning to next post with the completed Harlequin Side table, however it has been two steps forward and one back. Selecting the drawer fronts .. well, I've cut and recut them a few times, and only now satisfied with the result. It is no small deal each time since a drawer front has to be fitted into a recess that is shaped like a parallelogram. And if the fit is not good enough ... well, a few would-be drawer fronts were discarded. What parts are needed? Well, the drawer sides are 1/4" thick - too thin for grooves, so there will be slips to support the drawer bottom. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I use frequently, as it is a light wood that allows the drawer fronts to be shown to their best, and it is available quarter sawn. The drawer back will also be Tassie Oak. The drawer bottoms are solid wood and 1/4" thick. Rather than use Tasmanian Oak, I thought I would add a little life with Tasmanian Blue Gum. It is quite similar is texture and tone (although the photos here do not show this), but has more figure. Enough here for 8 drawers ... Drawer sides and drawer fronts ... Great sander ... Mirka Ceros ... These will be the drawer bottoms. The board in the centre is the Hard Maple case back ... Do you think anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? The making of the drawer slips may have some interest. I used Tasmanian Blue Gum (because it links to the drawer bottoms). This is quite interlocked and any planing with a plough to form either grooves or beads would be expected to end unhappily, with much tearout. I have posted this tip before: add a 15 degree backbevel to all plough blades to create a high 60 degree cutting angle. The 3/16" beads were ploughed with the Veritas Combination Plane ... Brilliant finish ... ... and a 1/8" groove for the rebate in the drawer bottom was ploughed by the Veritas Small Plow ... Again, tearout free ... This is a mock up of the intersection of the drawer front (back), drawer side into drawer slip and against a drawer side ... Note that the drawer front is straight/flat at this stage but, once dovetailed, they will be shaped to curve along the bow front of the case. These are the timbers I have chosen for the drawer fronts. This is what gives the side table the harlequin name. Three timbers: Black Walnut, a pink Jarrah, and figured Hard Maple. Keep in mind that there is no finish at this stage ... Next time hopefully with everything completed. Regards from Perth Derek
  21. 10 points
    I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  22. 10 points
    I finally decided to build a miter station. Despite not really having room for one, I realized I can't afford to go without the storage it provides. I have so much stuff that it's just impossible to stay organized and clean. I started this a couple of months ago, after my somewhat traditional winter break from the shop (I still have a project in limbo that I started in November as well!) I really couldn't see a way to get a full 8' to the left, but I rarely need to cut anything like that anyway so I went with 6' to the left and 2' to the right. I am using a lot of what Marc did in his miter station guild project, but didn't really follow his cabinet techniques. I also consider this a primer for making my desk and maybe some kitchen cabinets. I got a lot of mistakes out of the way on this project so hopefully future ones will go smoothly. One problem I ran into is that I bought the plywood 2 weeks apart. So they ended up not being the same size. Also I forgot to trim the cabinet stock to consistent size at the table saw after breaking them down with the track saw. As a result, my first cabinet was 1/8" out of square. The next 3 ended up perfect though. You can see the saw that I bought in February and still haven't even plugged in. It gets moved from spot to spot as I work on this project. Bought out the stock of all Home Depots drawer slides, then Lowes as well. I wanted good slides, but not top of the line. I paid around $20 per set. They aren't self close, but that is ok. Not sure it needs to be My tops are 2 doubled up sheets of plywood with a layer of hardboard so it's nice and smooth. Just a preference really, no real reason for it to be that way. Used brad nails to act as clamps (because I just had to use my new California Air Tools compressor that I got that same day - that thing rocks) Drawer stock, not very exciting. Very few of my drawers were the same size. Part of that is just inexperience in making drawers. One cabinet in particular I wanted difference sizes for different kinds of tools though. This is only about 1/2 the drawers, as I just don't have room to build more than 8 drawers at once. Top together without the trim, drawer boxes installed in a couple of cases.You can see the inconsistency in my spacing there. Some of the drawers I ended up moved when I wasn't satisfied with how they looked. Oh and in the background you can see my foam board that I cut the cabinet plywood on. As I was cutting the last piece, the wind caught the foam board and made it explode into four pieces. Almost like it shattered. I guess that foam was end of life anyway. False front stock. I ended up using true Uncle Cletus wood. I bought a couple of 14" wide, 11' long 8/4 walnut boards from a local guy 3 years ago. The plan was to use them for my desk. Unfortunately they were just too warped for any pieces longer than a few feet, so I used them for this. Here is an example of how bad these boards were. In some cases I couldn't even get 3/4" First false front in Learned a lot of valuable lessons here. I'm not confident in my cabinet squareness or my ability to cut the drawer fronts to perfect width. So I went long on every one of them. Figured I'd just trim them magically to be flush. In fact I bought the Festool RO90 to help with this, but truthfully it didn't prove to be incredibly effective on walnut end grain. As a result I built a shooting board and will try that later. I definitely made some alignment mistakes. This one I held it in place and put brads in it, and it had shifted. So I glued a piece on to the short side that clearly doesn't match. It's shop furniture. If it was for my house I'd have found matching grain or pulled the front off and fixed it. It went smoother after that. I tried to replicate what Marc did by putting the fronts on while the cabinets are laying on their back. When I tipped them back up right, the spacing was off on all of them because there is a little bit of travel in the up and down motion of the slides. So I pulled them all off and did it with the cabinet right side up. However, since they were measured, cut and positioned to the laying down orientation, to get the right gaps between drawers I ended up with the fronts being screwy. In some places they were just a hair lower than the drawer box. Also I forgot that my drawers were all different sizes on the other cabinets and didn't change the template to match. So I ended up using wood filler to fix errant drawer pull holes. This is the one I finished up today, it went great. And it was actually an accident that the bottom two drawers are bookmatched, and the top drawer was cut from the exact same board as the 2nd drawer so it has grain continuity. Obviously the top wasn't big enough so I had to glue up another board. I did a horrible job with grain matching. But again - shop furniture. I still have a bit to do, but I'm really really hoping to get these done on this long weekend.
  23. 10 points
    I've only been able to get a few hours in the shop each week lately, so things have slowed down. Having said that, I've made some significant progress, but unfortunately, it doesn't really show. I've finish sanded and glued up the main cabinet, as well as cut the back panel. I used Old Brown Glue, mainly just to try it, but also for the longer open time. I liked it, but keeping it warm is a bit of a pain. I've also cut all the door joinery and finish prepped the parts (after this photo), but no glue yet. Overall, I'm happy with the way it's progressing. I'm just using 1/2" cherry ply for the panels, but I have some ideas to dress up the cabinet fronts. The plan right now will be to try carving some crests, but realistically that won't happen for a while. This was a lot of dovetails for me, but you definitely get efficient at them:
  24. 10 points
    My son needed somewhere to keep his books. I had almost a full spare sheet of ½" baltic birch plywood. I cranked this thing out from design to finish in about 5 hours today. I had it almost totally finished, and then I decided to give the front face a gentle slope so it would be more bottom-heavy and less likely to tip. The final dimensions are something like 14" deep at the bottom and 10" deep at the top, with a consistent angle across the fronts of the shelves and ends. My son approves. The construction is super simple. The sides got dadoes for the shelves. The back panel is ¼" thick baltic birch and is also dadoes into the back. I used glue and a few pin nails to hold it together. Nothing too crazy. I wanted it very simple, very unobtrusive. The kind of thing that just disappears underneath whatever is on it. It's not fine woodworking - it's woodworking that I look at and think, "yeah, it's fine." I did have a little fun with the selection of boards, as the BBP had some deep mineral streaks that I decided to keep clearly visible by selecting carefully to use them on the shelf tops. The first thing he tried to do was climb on it (of course). I need to anchor it to the wall so he can't tip it, but for the moment he seems to get that it's for books and not for climbing. The second thing he did was put a bucket and a toy boat on his new shelf, because when you're almost 2 and have a bucket and boat, that's just what you do. I think he approves! He was smiling a lot. Altogether a morning well spent!
  25. 10 points
    Alright, got a bit impatient. Photo dump time. I couldn't capture the ray fleck on the tops in the pictures, so that sucks. It's not perfect and never was going to be...but I'm happy, happier than I expected to be. I think I made it the best I could have given my skill, time to dedicate, and material.
  26. 9 points
    Had some short pieces of butternut and needed a piece for the church auction, box joints, butternut and walnut, Spanish Cedar interior with a lift out tray, Vertex 90 degree stop hinges, 3 coats ARS satin, thanks for looking and comments and questions are welcome as usual
  27. 9 points
    My apologies, I haven't been keeping up on this. I am in the finishing stage but according to the journal I am still building so let me get you caught up a little. After I took the bases out of the clamps, I cleaned up all the box joints with a chisel and then sanded them to 150. After that, I cut the top and bottom of the base to final size and added a chamfer all the way around, top and bottom. Next I wanted to glue a block at each end of the top and bottom piece so that when I do the glue up they self center instead slipping around while I get the clamps on. I got the top or bottom piece lined up and then put a little clamp pressure on so that things didn't move if bumped while I glued the blocks in place with CA glue. Final dry fit of the project. And then in the clamps with glue. I needed to come up with a way to have the base high enough so I could get clamps on when gluing the case to the base. I clamped two lengths of 2X4 to the end of my bench. I set the base on this. The other thing I was concerned about was glue squeeze out because with the chamfered edge of the case it could be a chore to clean up. So I laid down a border of blue tape. Then after getting the glue spread I pulled up the tape. I did the same on the bottom of the case. I used a couple of double squares I had set to the distances I wanted the case to be from the side and front edges of the base to line things up quickly and then get the clamps on. All in all it went pretty well.
  28. 9 points
    FINAL PICTURES We are done building the side table. Here are pictures (taken with my iPhone6). The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? And this one is for Bill, who was concerned that the chamfers at the end of the drawers (to ease entry into the case) might impair their extension ... A last look ... Thursday morning I haul the table to the Perth Wood Show for the annual furniture competition. Wish me luck. Regards from Perth Derek
  29. 9 points
    Out of the clamps, block plane, ROS to get the angle on the edge of the shade, these get set aside until the bases are done
  30. 9 points
    I received for my Birthday, from my to younger grandkids a gift card to my lumber yard. They told their mom they wanted to give "Paga" some wood to build something with. My daughter told them that I should pick the wood out myself but that they could get me a gift card from the lumber yard. When they went in they were told that they didn't have gift cards but the guy at the counter went over and cut them a piece of pine and told them to give that to me and tell me what it was for.
  31. 9 points
    I restored this Stanley 112 Scraper from what was called a "basket case" It was just hidden under surface rust and crud. I love these scrapers, as well tuned they are great at giving an alternative to sandpaper on figured wood. If anyone is interested in seeing the others, I'll post them too. I've been doing this for 25 years and as I just got back into woodworking after a long break; I have been getting planes and so forth to restore.
  32. 9 points
    The Harlequin side table will have 8 drawers. The drawer case sides and the central drawer blade are panels and run in dados or housings (depending on which side of the pond you live). Positioning of these dados is critical since any misalignment will affect the aesthetic. It goes without saying (but I shall) that the alignment also determines that the side panels will be square ... and drawers need to run against square sides. All this is done here with hand tools. Some of the finer points in getting it precise ... First of all, templates (or story sticks) are created to position the dados. There are two for each side panel: the second is 10mm longer than the first. Scoring each creates an exact 10mm dado. There is a series of templates to position all the dados. This ensures that the upper and the lower dado are position exactly the same distance from the reference wall ... A chisel wall is created for the marked outlines. This wall enables the fence to be lined up using a wide chisel ... The sidewalls are sawn with a azebiki saw. This have two curved sides, one with coarse rip teeth and the other with fine crosscut teeth. I begin with the fine teeth and use them to establish the kerf, and then switch to to the coarse teeth for speedier sawing. With a compass, I check that the kerf is parallel and to the desired width (10mm) ... The sawn side wall is now chopped away close to full depth ... This is done across the dados on one board at a time ... The waste in the centre of each dado is removed with a router plane. The dados are done at the same time to save have to reset the depth of cut (one stroke on dado #1, one on dado #2, and one on dado #3 ... then back to #1 ...) ... Keep an eye on the depth ... Fine tune the dado should theoretically be unnecessary if they were marked accurately. In practice, I find that there is usually some waste in the corners, or a slightly sloped wall. For this reason I run a side rebate plane (here a Veritas), the length of each wall. This is not held vertically, since that with remove some of the width. Instead it is run at an angle away from the side wall, as it it was undercutting the side wall ... The fit is now checked with an offcut from the side panel ... The side rebate plane can take a smidgeon off the sidewall if the fit is too tight. Some will argue that it is preferable to plane the panel instead. In this situation that is not advisable since the panel is to slide along the dado, and a tight point will impede all points of the panel. The carcase is Hard Maple, with Merbau as the secondary wood. Locally, Merbau is used for decking. It is cheap and hard, both qualities valued. But is a really brittle wood, and awful to work with. The number of splinters I have had ... and they are sharp and lodge deeply. Ugh! It can look like this ... ... and then a section breaks away ... At least it will be far inside the carcase and not be seen. A panel is made up for the interior dividers ... The pieces are fitted. Will the careful planning and neurotic execution pay off? I was holding my breath. This is a dry fit .... (sound of breathing again) Then I pulled it apart and glued up the carcase ... More after the coming weekend. Regards from Perth Derek
  33. 9 points
    The move is done. Here it is in its new happy home. Now I'm just waiting on my electrician. That'll probably be next week. The movers basically just carried the thing up the stairs one step at a time. And the blurred photos are not to hide their identities, these guys were really fast and efficient. Now to put it together and do some shop re-arranging.
  34. 9 points
    I am about to begin my next build, and it has 8 drawers. As many of you know, I like making drawers ... complex drawers. And these ones are no exception.[ It got me thinking about the improvements I'd like to make to my Moxon vise. I have plans to make a new Moxon vise, using steel screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted, and all the parts are waiting in my workshop. But they will wait until this build is completed. And so I decided to modify the Moxon vise I have been using for the past 8 years. The Moxon vise is not simply about holding a board to saw dovetails. It is also about holding two boards together to transfer the tails to the pin board. In regard to the holding-to-transfer, David Barron designed a useful jig, a dovetail alignment board ... The issue I have with this is that I do not want another appliance to add to the ones I already have. But I like the idea, and wanted to incorporate it. To cut to the chase, here is my modified Moxon vise .... The first item is the ledge at the rear, which is covered in non-slip. The non-slip is for stair treads. The ledge is an idea taken from Joel Moskowitz (Tools for Working Wood), and is intended to use with a clamp when the tail board may need to be clamped. I have used clamps in the past, and so I know it is a good idea. Where this ledge differs is that it has a raised, hinged section, that places the tail board 16mm above the chop. This was also present on my previous version ... This allows the higher section to be folded out of the way when sawing ... The reason for this is that a coplanar top surface will lead to the chop being marked up by the knife when transferring the tails. This is the reason I recommend that the Moxon vise does not receive a table at the rear. It is why I prefer instead to raise the work piece up higher than the chop, out of harms way. The rear of the board is supported by the "I-beam" (which can be seen in the photos. The inside of the chop and the vise face are now covered by a material made from a composite of cork and rubber. BenchCrafted sell this as "crubber". I researched it on the 'Net and purchased a large piece on eBay. Note above that there are dados in the chop and the face. The dado in the face has a recessed rare earth magnet. I had an idea to make an integral, but removable alignment fence. This is a steel angle faced with hardwood ... It slots into the dado, and is held firmly ... And then is used in the same manner as an alignment board ... I hope this can be used by others. Regards from Perth Derek
  35. 9 points
    I finally finished our bed for the wife and I. It is king size and constructed of some very old heart pine that I salvaged from some dairy barn beams. I resawed the beams to get the wood sizes required and then ran everything through my planer etc. The wood is extremely hard as much as oak and machined beautifully with the great pine smell permeating my shop. I managed to hide most of the old nail and peg holes and then finished the wood with 3 coats shellac followed by hand waxing and buffing. That took a long time as there is a lot of surface area to cover. LOL This is my largest furniture project to date and I learned as I went along. I did not take any shortcuts and everything is put together with hand cut mortise and tenon joinery. I used splines to join the panel boards. I used Titebond PVA and the bed rails are fastened using old fashioned bed bolts through the ends of the tenons and posts. I did make some mistakes of course, but nothing major. I just took my time and slogged at it for about 4 weeks.
  36. 9 points
  37. 8 points
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  38. 8 points
    Got it finished and in place. I used flood cwf-uv finish because i got it free and why not. Starting to get it filled up.
  39. 8 points
    I'm a big fan of mesquite. Also, the fruit woods, apple, pear, persimmon.
  40. 8 points
    This has been an interesting project, learning a lot. Today I put the top coat of epoxy on the board. Started by sanding and cleaning everything up from the glassing procedure (applying the fiberglass). Tape off the rails and let the tape drape so excess epoxy doesn't run over to the underside and make drip lines. By draping the tape the excess epoxy simply drips onto the floor, glad I put the paper down because I'm making a mess. Here's the board taped up; On the back of the board I made a small dam out of the tape, trying to build up a little bit of a harder edge here with the epoxy; Next it's brushing on the epoxy. I'm doing the bottom of the board in these pics, I did the top this morning before heading to church. The top did not turn out as smooth as I wanted, I had some bubbles in the mix and they popped after I left it, leaving some small pot marks. This side I waited and did a final once over after most of the bubbles came to the surface. Learning as I go. I'll likely have to put another coat on the top. After the coats dry I need to final sand and clean up, then I might be done! Thanks for looking.
  41. 8 points
    Welcome to my world this is the Bday card I got from my wife
  42. 8 points
    Spent a fair amount of time pushing through this project, but I will run out of time to get it finished by Fri. Still, here's my progress. Began shaping the rails. When you shape your rails you can chose a harder or softer rail. Basically a soft rail has an even curve from the top of the board to the bottom. A harder curve has more weight and a slight edge on the underside, it's curved evenly to this edge. I went with a soft rail. Here you can see the rail at the early stages of shaping, got to this stage with the RAS 115 and some rasps; Alittle more shaping.... And starting to look better.... When you look closely at the next 2 pics you can still see the rail is slightly wavy and not perfectly smooth, this fine tuning will take a while; Here I'm getting ready to attach the tail. The blocks are attached to the tail piece via a long grain glue joint and the blocks fit into the hollow part of the board; Try in goes smoothly; Used a few clamps as cauls and glued on tail; Did the same this for the front piece, same technique and similar result; Had a little time this AM and I couldn't resist, rough shaped the tail; And it's starting to look like a real surf board; A lot of shaping and sanding still left. I also need to make a glassing stand. I plan to do that with 5 gallon buckets, some 2x4s, plywood scrap, rocks and rags. If that doesn't make sense then wait for my next series of photos. I'll likely be away from this project until next week. Thanks for looking.
  43. 8 points
    One of Megan's friends wanted an outdoor connect four game made. She sent me a picture and it looked easy enough so i said sure. The construction is pretty simple but became very tedious very quickly. I used a hole saw to drill out the game board from 1/4" pine ply. Using a 3.5" hole saw with a hand drill was not very fun and the drill caught a lot and beat me up quite a bit. The main structure is 1/4" ply sandwiching some slats that separate off the rows. I used some random hardwood, i honestly have no idea what it is, to make the internal structure as well as the legs. The next part was to make the game pieces. Again hole saw but this time 4" and i used my drill press. I had some 1/2" birch ply that was waste from making some drawers. I quickly learned that stacking pieces of ply would decrease the time it took to cut these out. I also figured out that if you position the hole saw so that part of the saw goes over the edge it clears the saw dust from the kerf and the saw cuts a lot more efficiently. Another trick is to drill a hole in the kerf. I hit the edges with a chamfer bit and gave them a quick sand. Followed with some paint. The project materials were requested to be lower in quality and painted. I wanted the whole thing to come apart for easy storage or transport. This was an interesting solution and i just borrowed some ques from the table top game. I used some thread taps to tap4 1/4"-20 holes and then mounted 2 bolts on either side. On the leg i drilled a 1/2" hole and then cut a slot on my router table. i think this is called a keyhole or something.... I used a chisel to remove some material towards the hole so there is a taper that pulls the sides in and sort of locks them in place. It works well, you can pick up the whole thing and the legs don't fall off but are easy to remove. The dump function was the most difficult part and I'm not sure that i did so well with it. If it doesn't work I'll offer to redo it but this was the best option i could think of that didn't use hinges and a catch. I didn't want to put any more money into this than i had to as it's more of a gift than something I'll ever make money on. After stainless steel fasteners material and finish I'm probably loosing on this deal anyway. It's simple and mimics what i used for the legs. It's not as easy to use as i hoped but it's not bad. Finish was some medium brown trans fast dye applied with HVLP and then 4 coats of Minwax spar urethane water borne formula. I don't much like this finish as it gives the dye and wood a green cast. Maybe it just needs to dry fully. I will probably use the rest of the can on junk projects and there is a good change it'll just get tossed. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Varnish/999918584 I wanted to use General Finishes exterior 450 but their distribution network sucks, Rockler was closed and a 30 min drive so i use minwax products.
  44. 8 points
    Still no video put together but here are a few shots of the current status. The ebony "pegs" on the lower doors (actually drawer fronts) are just electrical tape I used to play with different arrangements for the real ones. If anyone follows Darell Peart on IG you may have seen his posts about updating his finishing process since he did the Fremont Night Stand guild project. He's trying to get away from ARS and VOC's in general to a safer and less toxic process. He posted that he was going to Livos Kunos oils, specifically cocobolo for the color and natural as a topcoat. I took his word for it and tried it on this project. All I can say is wow. Very simple to use and great results. I still need to attach the "door" fronts to the file drawers and make the pulls, then it's just detailing it and putting finish on the rest of the piece.
  45. 8 points
    Finally got it off the lathe and sprayed with varnish.
  46. 8 points
    I've been wanting to make an end grain cutting board for a while. So in typical fashion I choose a complicated one, and complicated it more by using 3/4 stock and an attempt to minimize waste. Still, the thing cost about $80 in materials...sheeshhh. It should last forever though, and looks really cool. I used this online app - http://www.cuttingboarddesigner.com/#/designer/68781c61-c7c5-fac7-8bd3-903a13708a44 to guide me. I didn't realize how dark the end grain of the maple would get - I was hoping for more contrast. Here are some pics, before and after oil. I just use mineral oil for cutting boards.
  47. 8 points
    So this is where I'm at now. Main case dry fitted. Drawers are from an old project (my daughter rejected them ). Next up is finish prep, glue-up and fitting the back. The large cubbies on the sides are for books.
  48. 7 points
    I have my hinges mostly fitted to the cabinet. I think the end result looks pretty good. I went with the continuous hinges, but they were pretty industrial looking when they arrived. They had a very inconsistent surface finish, and were covered in sticky grease. I cleaned them off using denatured alcohol and then used a wire wheel on the bench grinder to even out the finish. I followed up by putting a thin layer of paste wax, and they now have a nice satin finish. I had to mortise the hinges into each side a bit over 1/16 to get the gap down to something reasonable. I'm pretty happy with the results. I clamped the cabinet down to the bench and must have stood there playing with the doors for a solid 5 minutes. One thing I discovered is that my doors are square, but my cabinet will rack a bit with the back off. I'm going to need to install it later today with a square in place, so I can make sure it all lines up. Once I have that figured out I think I'm on to finish sanding and breaking edges, then applying a couple of coats of tried and true on it. I want to match my bench as closely as possible.
  49. 7 points
    As I mentioned before, one of these flag cases is for my sister" husband's flag. So besides making the case I thought I would do a photo album of the process for her and her family, so you may see some pictures of steps that most of us know and normally I would not include. Having said that, after letting things sit for a handful of days the first thing I did was mill the pieces for the two sides and bottom of each case. I surfaced one face on the jointer the planed to final thickness, after that then did a light pass through the drum sander on each side just in case there is some minuscule snip that I missed. I very rarely get any off the planer but with the drum sander right there its an easy step to take, then back to the jointer to joint one edge and finally cut to final width on the table saw. The off cut will be used later down the road for other parts. Next on the table saw with my cross cut sled I squared up one end of each side piece. Then using my miter gauge and setting the blade to 45 degrees, I cut the other end on the side pieces and both ends on the bottom. Ending up with three sets that look like this. Instead of using the traditional miter joints for the three corners of the case I an using box joints. I was looking for something that was different from the norm and decided to give this a try. I am cutting the box joints on my router. Using the jig that came with the router for such tasks I clamped the three right side pieces and a backer board and made the cuts with a 3/8 inch up spiral bit. Then I did the same thing for the left side pieces and made the mating cuts. Then I did the same thing on the mitered ends using a jig I made to hold the pieces at 45 degrees to the table. I used the same jig to cut the mating ends on the base piece, flipping the base piece end for end to make the second pass. I had to hit a few spots with a rasp to persuade the fit. First dry fit. I used some blue tape to hold each case together so I could pass them through the drum sander to flush all the edges so everything would be on the same plane when I cut the rabbets for the back of the case.
  50. 7 points
    It's in the house! I'll get my wife's nice camera and get some proper shots of it tomorrow. The bottom drawer is out still because the finish is still drying. I got it all fitted yesterday, and it seems like it's all working swimmingly.