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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/15/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    It's in the house! I'll get my wife's nice camera and get some proper shots of it tomorrow. The bottom drawer is out still because the finish is still drying. I got it all fitted yesterday, and it seems like it's all working swimmingly.
  2. 4 points
    Actually I think you can look to lawn care products for this one. This is is out of stock, but you get the idea. https://www.essentialhardware.com/lawson-products-90427-lawn-and-yard-waste-funnel-twin-black-150999.html we had one years ago, worked great for holding plastic bags open while you tossed in leaves. They key is it is NOT a fixed cylinder, if it was, it would be a pain to slide the bag over. Instead, it is a rolled sheet. You roll it tight, insert it into the bag, and then release it and it unfurls until it pulls the bag taught. It should line the inside of a drum quite well.
  3. 4 points
    Finally got some steady time to get this one wrapped up which is good too. I am upgrading my electrical panel this Thursday and i have to button up a bunch of wiring and get new grounds ready before the big day. The sawdust and glue mix worked surprisingly well. You can still see marks but it's far better than it was. After i got the frame made and the top sized, it was as simple as thinning out some walnut to make a slip fit top. I needed some dividers for the piece treys as well as the center wall thing. I had a small piece of redgum sitting on my scrap shelf and figured with all the chaos of wood on this one why not add 1 more species. It turns out it blends well between the walnut and the black dyed wood i used on the field. I just have the brass latches left to install after the finish cures. It's too bad the Mahogany veneer is so much darker than the piece i had. I hope that in time it evens out. If i get a chance i might toss it out side to sun tan this week. It's supposed to be in the 60s!!!!!!!!!
  4. 3 points
    Everything here is my own design and construction aside from the lamp and the guitar. The chair was built with my dad circa 2009 when I was learning how to make furniture. The footstool was made on the porch of my apartment in 2012 when my wife and I first got married. The side table was made in 2017 when my son was born.I'm focusing on the nicks, dings, and imperfections in this post. Here's one. I noticed after the finish was far enough underway that sanding it back would've led to inconsistent color or completely restarting the finish. I figure that with a toddler, this is the first of many dings, haha.The right door went on very well - consistent 1/16" reveal all the way around.The left door has a bit more of a problem with the reveal - the right edge of it is a bit too wide, probably ⅛ instead of 1/16. The top is also tighter than it should be, which in turn emphasizes the oversize gap on the right.When I was gluing the case up, something weird happened that I still can't figure out, and when I clamped it there was a split here - it's the dark vertical streak about ¼ of the way in from the front. I filled it in with glue & sawdust, and it is hidden with the grain well enough, but it wasn't a perfect project. The miter joint right there ended up being a tad gappy, too. I guess there must have been a chip or chunk of something in the joint that caused it to not want to close evenly, leading to a split when put under heavy clamp pressure. Yeah, I over clamp. Guilty as charged.The only visible sapwood. There's a little more on the bottom of the cabinet. Also, I'm trying to figure out how to manage my mess of wires in this cabinet. It seems like a shame to waste so much space, but I'm also only just figuring out what I want where in this thing. Our previous "TV stand" was actually a repurposed coffee table, so having somewhere to put things is a new experience, hahaha.The Lee Valley offset knife hinges I used for the project were pricey, but overall very good quality. They ended up sitting just barely proud of the surface after trimming the doors to fit as well as I could. Also, there's a nick out of the corner of this door because I got reckless when trimming early on. I hid it, but it's still there! Every ding tells a story, I guess. Most are just stories of my own stupidity, but still. lol.I used Brusso ball catches to hold the doors closed, but didn't anticipate this: The ball catch has a travel of almost ⅛", and my reveal is about half that. This means that over time, the ball catch is going to put a little crescent-shaped ding into the wood where it compresses each time. Not a major concern, but something I overlooked. It was my first time using ball catches, so I guess that is something to remember for next time.Top drawer! Video game goodies. No real problems with this drawer.Bottom drawer! DVDs. So nice to finally have somewhere to stash them. I purposefully designed the drawer to be deep enough to hold DVD cases.The right cabinet currently holds one of those felt storage cubes, also full of DVDs. Funny how those accumulate. I can't remember the last time I bought a DVD, but somehow there are so many of them.There has been some discussion about the potential for the doors warping since they are solid wood. They are also nearly an inch thick, more like a tabletop than a door. I think they should be okay, but if they aren't I can fix them as needed. Time will tell. This photo also shows yet another goof-up, a hole I had to drill to remove the ball catch when I accidentally put it too deep. Those ball catches are tricky.Raking angle shot of the top surface finish. I am pretty happy with it! This image has been reduced by 18.5%. Click to view full size. The back. It's got my TV antenna taped to it (yes, I said TV antenna, we use Netflix, YouTube, and over-the-air local channels), and one hole for cables to go into the far cabinet. Not pretty, not ugly, just "mreh." It's a cabinet back, whatchagonnado.
  5. 3 points
    And speaking of beading, using scratch stock o ran a bead around the tops of my end table project tables. The end grain is a bugger, but it cleaned up ok. Then I’ll put a rounded taper underneath with the router table. It’s fun using these beading tools. A friend said it didn’t look like fun, but I thoroughly enjoyed it.
  6. 3 points
    What a great weekend with Darrell and his wife, Terry. The workshop could not have gone any better! One of the reasons I wanted to have Darrell do this seminar was because of his extensive use of CNC as a tool in his everyday workflow. Here's his Tercet table with custom CNC cut clamping cauls. He went into great detail about how much easier it is now for him to clamp up a piece with very odd angles by making these custom cauls to fit the angles, with detents in the cauls for precisely placing the clamp jaws in alignment. Everything lines up perfectly with very few to no gaps requiring adjustment. Great use of the technology! And this is how deep the sawdust was in his shop when he forgot to empty his collector. We had a few more people than the class is designed to hold, but we managed. It was a full house. My buddy Carl eyeing some of the ebony plugs Darrell is cutting. He won't notice them missing, right? Meanwhile, back in Denver is my brother (who was supposed to attend the Darrell Peart seminar!) waiting patiently for his signed copy by some guy hawking his book. But that's okay. I got my own signed copy! I'll get some of the video processed and posted a little later. Darrell is a great instructor. If you ever have the opportunity to take one of his classes or attend a workshop, do it. Very personable, completely unpretentious and happy to answer any questions you have.
  7. 2 points
    I made this jig up to hold picture frames for finishing. really simple, a couple of slides with finish nails pounded in them, cut off the head end and sharpen them with a dremmel tool, slides are secured with a carriage bolt and wing nut. tighten one end down, squeeze the nails into the frame with hand pressure, squeeze the other end into the frame and tighten the wing nut. holds good for finishing and can be held with one hand to finish all parts then hung up somewhere out of the area to dry. made several of different lengths and can put 4 slides on one to do two frames at once. made them way back when wood frames were popular, they still are around my house anyway, picture frame is butternut if anyone was wondering.
  8. 2 points
    So I've milled all my door parts to rough size, although nothing exciting to show there. On the main cabinet, all I really need to do is add the dividers on the plane cubbies. In the plans, Matt has 7 of them with about 3 1/4" per. Looking at it, I think I can fit in 8. Anyone see an issue with the inside dimension being around 2 3/4"? I can't think of a plane that's in the 9" and under range that it would prevent. Most of what I plan to put there is block planes, shoulder plane, etc, and my smoother is 2 1/2". And just to show something, here's the Birdseye maple I got for the drawer fronts. I like that this side has plenty of heartwood in it.
  9. 2 points
    Wow, all amazing and great suggestions. You guys should be commended for how positive and suggestive your comments are. So, here's where I am now. I think it's looking good. I do worry that the lower doors might look bland. Also, the pulls are not finalized Still thinking of the ramifications of hinging the front on the top shelf so when the top is open, it's out of the way. The center cabinet opening with the shelf folding to horizontal is a compromise. I'd rather not have it slide into the top as those hinges, at least the ones I'm familiar with, don't allow the shelf to fully slide in. There's always some of that shelf that sticks out and that means I'll have to crouch (further) down to see into the back into the cabinet recesses. Scott
  10. 2 points
    Good Morning! Since you were all so generous with your advice and time, I wanted to share the outcome of my crisis with all of you kind folks. What eventually worked to remove the gray crusted blotches on my ash mantle was this process...CitriStrip applied with an abrasive pad and/or toothbrush, After Wash applied with an abrasive pad and/or toothbrush, Mineral Spirits (with days of drying time) and then Minwax Wipe On Poly (3 coats). It is beautiful in the end! Thank you for helping me problem solve my dilemma. I greatly appreciate your efforts!
  11. 1 point
    Boy... I really blew it w/ my OP. Its a 13 degree cross cut through a 1” board. I do not have a band saw. i think my magnetic jig needs a major design change.
  12. 1 point
    I did not like the idea of construction adhesive either. I used plain ole Titebond yellow glue in the lift construction with no issues. The threaded rod is what gives this lift such a smooth machined like adjustment. The router sits in a lift carriage and a large bearing rides in a diagonal slot to carry the load. It's a great design that allows fine adjustment while still being quick to raise or lower with just a few turns of the wheel. If you look at the top left hand side of the lift you can see a slight gap between the plywood blocks. This is part of the brake assembly that clamps the carriage in place. Truthfully, I rarely use it except when I am using a large bit with a lot of torque. Most of the time I do not lock the lift and it never creeps or changes settings anyway because of the lift mechanism design. When it is locked and the blocks squeeze tightly together, nothing is going to move that sucker.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Coop you need to make a second chair out of curly cherry.
  15. 1 point
    9/4 fresh cut curly cherry. My last curly cherry log.
  16. 1 point
    I hate it when that happens. Another mouth to feed, and sole to keep clean... I'd do dividers. I wouldn't really want to bang planes into each other. I know it's hard to see the future but for the planes i know will always be ther i'd size them a bit tighter and have them in a dedicated spot. For those that you will fill with strays maybe be a bit more liberal with sizing. If your really worried about it do all of this on something that is removable so in the future if you messed up you can remove it and redo it. It's a tool cabinet i think screws that get hidden by a plane or plug or something is not out of place. Or fasten it on the backside or side or something.
  17. 1 point
    True enough, I doubt my planes are going to jump up and bang into each other if I don't put dividers. I think it's as much of a visual division between them as anything else - it gives that look of a nice neat row of planes. I do still have lots of other places to put them in the cabinet, so this part of the storage doesn't need to be perfect. I looked at the Mike Pekovich tool cabinet and it seems he left a bit less than 2 1/2" per plane if I read the plans right. It seems like his was sized exactly to the planes he has though, which I don't want to do. As you say, you never know when a new one is going to follow you home. You do realize, that at this rate I'll never get the nerve up to finish assembling this thing...
  18. 1 point
    I'm sure Rickey can answer this better, since I've milled far fewer logs than him. I've heard that "summer" logs hold more water than "dormant" logs, but in the end I don't think it amounts to enough of a difference to really matter. The bark seems to be much easier to remove once the sap begins to flow, but Rickey can confirm or dispute this as it's more of just an observation by me. If I got oak logs to mill in the spring, I'd likely just keep them till late fall and then mill them to give them the colder months to start and dry. When air drying you have free water and bound water. The free water will leave the boards fairly quickly, but the bound water is in the wood cells and oak doesn't release this quickly, and if you rush it in oak you will ruin your lumber. What I have noticed that is really interesting, is how little logs dry when left in the round. A few years ago I milled a downed walnut. Tree had been down for at about 3 years, it was still soaking wet inside. I think the bark, when on the log, prevents or really slows drying. At least this is my take on it.
  19. 1 point
    I made a very similar tool, using a scalpel blade. I made mine for use purely as a marking gauge rather than trying to cut the sides of a recess. With the blade barely protruding (like your photo) it works fine. If I have the blade extended much further the wedge doesn't hold it in place firmly enough and it gets pushed back into the tool. This is a pain because if I don't want to mark the full length/width of a board I would like the blade extended further so I can see where I am marking. So in short, yes I agree with you that a screw arrangement would be better than the wedge.
  20. 1 point
    Busy looking bench at this stage of the game. If I had a shop twice the size — I’d fill it up with other stuff! Lol
  21. 1 point
    So I started my first pack of banding tonight. Tomorrow I’ll unclamp it and see what it looks like. One layer each of holly, then anigre on the outside, two layers of sapele. Should look good on these African mahogany legs, I’m thinking.
  22. 1 point
    Visually, the front view looks 100% better.
  23. 1 point
    That turned out great Drew!
  24. 1 point
    Rickey knows his lumber. Wasn't sure what % you needed before the kiln, but knew you needed to air dry some. As Rickey said, and from my experience, Oak is one of the more difficult woods to dry. It tends to dry slowly and if you go to fast you'll get case hardening and surface checking. With oak, I like to mill it in the winter so it has a few months to dry slowly before the warmer months come. I also put windscreen around my piles to slow the air circulation and hence slow the drying rate. I just cut a bunch of 8/4 WO, I'm thinking 3-4 years air drying, maybe more. These thick oak boards may make me find a kiln for final drying.
  25. 1 point
    What is the purpose of the flip top? What electronics need this sort of access? I built something like that on a small box. One problem is the top piece can warp, or just change seasonally, resulting in the joint between the top and false drawer front not always being a true 90 degrees. When that happens, you’ll have trouble keeping the two halves nicely aligned, as they may not move/warp to the same extent. It also means you can’t store anything on top of the unit. Many cabinets look nice with a vase or similar accent object on top. If you want to procceed with this direction, I’d suggest removing the middle joint and making the top one single piece, rather than two distinct halves.
  26. 1 point
    Hey @wtnhighlander, Great idea about the magnet for the false door. I wasn't necessarily planning that false door to fold inward when the top swung up, it was a suggestion by Gary. I haven't really given the idea full consideration yet, but I will. Regarding the requirement to raise the false door in the first place. My plan includes plugging things in for charging and generally having my hands access the contents of those top shelves. I thought it would be unique, and also handy to not have to reach down whenever I accessed that shelf. Instead I'd be reaching across. I like the idea because if I leave the false door in place, that cabinet feels like a well and I'm not sure I'd like that. Until I lock the design, I'm open to changing it if the whole concepts becomes problematic. Scott
  27. 1 point
    If you load green oak lumber in a kiln you will make kindling out of it. I’m sure some of the new kilns you can kiln dry green oak lumber in.
  28. 1 point
    Looks great! I see another familar piece or two, as well. Nice work.
  29. 1 point
    That's really option B. I've got 24 1/2" to work with. I can think of the following options that work, not including the divider thickness. I'm also leaving 6 1/2" for the card spacer storage, rather than just barely over 6" as is in the plans, because all of my scrapers are 6" and I don't want it to be a super tight fit. 1) 7 slots that are 3 1/4" wide 2) 8 slots that are 2 3/4" 3) 4 slots at 3 1/4" and 4 slots at 2 3/8" - this was actually my preferred option, until I realized that it meant that my most commonly used smoother would just barely not fit in the small slots. I don't want the slots to be close enough in size that I'll end up trying to jam a plane where it doesn't fit. I also started to think about whether I actually needed to make the slots different. 4) 5 slots at 3 1/8" and 3 slots at 2 1/4" Obviously there's a lot of permutations that could work. Practically speaking, I need to fit the following planes: 1) Low angle smoother at 2 1/2" wide 2) Stanley #78 rabbet plane at 1 1/2" wide 3) #4 smoother at 2 1/2" wide 4) Block plane at 2" wide 5) Apron plane at 1 3/4" wide That's it for now, although I expect that I may add another smoother or joinery plane at some point. The biggest plane I could ever see trying to put here would be one of the wider smoothers that are closer to 3", but I think they might all be too long. A 10" plane would be overhanging into the next compartment by 1 1/2". I've definitely overthought this. I probably should have just picked something and moved on by now, since it's stalling me from going any further. I also keep wondering if I should tweak the numbers to fit in a ninth slot...
  30. 1 point
    You wanted to see just how curly.
  31. 1 point
    That’s pretty curly in my opinion. I would say that’s as good as any of the curly soft maple that I send you.
  32. 1 point
    Bmac you can’t see the curls in fresh cut lumber coming off the mill. Let it dry for a few days and the curls start to show up or you can plane it and see the curls. This hard maple curly.
  33. 1 point
    So for the dremel base fence rather than pay StewMac $X for it, i made a little fence of oak. A couple slots for adjustment and beveled a little relief for sawdust.
  34. 1 point
    Hi Scott, I'm not a design expert either but I'm a serious amateur photographer and I try to apply some of my composition skills/rules to what I design. My first thought when I looked at it was "wow, that's busy". There''s a lot going on there. As much as the phrase "Less is more" annoys me, it's true. This feels very broken-up to me. It might help to use miters on the doors and the four outside corners of the trim. Try using full length vertical trim on the outsides and break up the center one instead. so the horizontal trim would run from the inside edge of the left vertical all the way through to the inside edge of the right vertical (excepting of course the top which obviously has to be separated). I'm thinking this would help tie things together and make it look less like two separate units. Maybe consider continuous side panels. Hope that helps.
  35. 1 point
    I shouldn’t be one answering this as I know absolutely nothing about design but my eyes say nthere’s something wrong and I think it’s the fact that the rails and stiles are different widths on the top two and the bottom one. I get the fact that you’re matching them on the inside stiles but I think it would look better if the outside stiles and all of the rails were the same width. JMO. Otherwise, neat design.
  36. 1 point
    I would imagine high fives are out, too.
  37. 1 point
    Check out this curly white oak log. I found at the mill this morning. I have my name on that log now.
  38. 1 point
    Wouldn't that be Raggedy Andy Coop? get better soon my friend
  39. 1 point
    I saw a video once I can't remember where, the guy on the video used welded wire fencing an made it fit the diameter of the barrel he folded all the loose tines to the inside of the barrel. He would put the plastic bag inside the barrel then the welded wire hoop than the lid, when the barrel was full he would lift the wire cage out of the bag than dispose of the bag, He just made sure there was no sharp wires that would poke hole in the bag.
  40. 1 point
    While you're recovering Rickey here's some real rainbow wood for you to dream about cutting It's really a rainbow tree that grows in Hawaii, daughter and her family were just there on vacation, only the bark is colored, it's actually a variety of Eucalyptus tree
  41. 1 point
    You've done such a nice job on the cabinet so far I think making the extra effort on the doors will leave you pleased for years. You will see them every time you walk into your shop. For me my bench is that way. I spent $300 on the 12/4 Sapele board for the chop and end cap was it necessary? absolutely not but I can guarantee you every time I walk into the shop I think damn that's a nice looking bench
  42. 0 points
    Hey Rickey.. Since you showed off your injury, I felt it only proper to expose mine. This came about from a push stick that got caught by the splitter and drove it downward into the blade. Not a major problem, the hand is still functional, but tightly gripping anything is kinda a no-no. Nine stitches