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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/09/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    So here are the stars of our show, in order of appearance. I am maintaining the flitch order, so it's 11 stars from position one, then 11 from position two, etc. I don't think this will matter very much if at all, but it won't hurt. This is quarter sawn Khaya (African mahogany) which I choose for its uniform grain pattern. I had some losses while cutting out and chopping out the stars, but not too much. More with the small stars, which I think reflects the longer arms. I made 121 and I think I will use 90 - 100, so I have some wiggle room. By the way I purchased the veneer from Certainly Wood. They had a good selection of thicker veneers and great customer service particularly for my small order, so a free product placement for their company. By the way the stars get sandwiched between some pieces of plywood while waiting their turn on stage so as to keep them flat. So here is my version of a book press. I'm gluing up the first two stars here. The spring clamps are to hold up the the parallel clamp heads out of the way when setting up. There are two pieces of 3/4 ply on each side as cauls, and the acrylic jig plates and stars are in between. It's all working well, ...but it's a little rascally. So first it's a time sensitive process hence the wrist watch. I am using Titebond Quick and Thick. The other choice I considered was Titebond II. Both have relatively short in clamp times which allows me to get the next star on to the stack more quickly, but they also have short open times, so you need to get things in clamp quickly. No time for chit chat or taking pictures. The chief difference between the two glues is that Quick & Thick is (wait for it) much thicker. It also dries clear as opposed to orange which is why I am using it here. Incidentally I should mention that Q&T is significantly thicker. It's spreadable, but it is noticeably more difficult and I do want to get complete coverage of the star. On the plus side you get less squeeze out. So that leads to the next problem. What to do with the glue spreader (roller) in between stars. I don't' want to do a full water clean up in between stars, yet it cures just as fast on the roller as anywhere else. I spoke to the Titebond folks about this and they suggested swishing it in a cup of water, then wiping it off. That's my current plan; seems to be working. The stars fit into the jig perfectly, I couldn't ask for better. But I am surprised about what happens next. I fit the first star into the jig and roll on the glue completely covering the surface and the star curls up. Now I understand the science behind this (it's the Wood Spirits, the glue tickles). It's easy to flatten out when I lay down and position the second star which also fits the jig perfectly. Clamp up and we're good. Now twenty minutes later release the clamps and repeat the operation with star #3, which also fits perfectly, and curls and flattens easily, but low and behold, the glue up of the first two stars, which had previously fit perfectly, now does not fit, and while sitting out of clamps it has taken the opposite curl. Did I mention rascally. Clearly the fibers are swelling from the water in the adhesive, but I would have thought this negligible*. And perhaps it would be in other circumstances, it only looks to be about a1/64", but I built this jig to 4 decimal places of precision so 1/64" is a lot. Still it's just veneer, so cajole it in place. This 1/16" veneer is behaving a lot more like a piece of lumber than a piece of paper. Under full clamping pressure that corner will not pop into place between the pins. *Negligible definition: Adjective. A factor or parameter that you should have paid heed to but didn't and are now trying to justify having ignored. Here's a shot showing three stars out of clamps and taking the reverse curl. I now have a grand total of half a dozen stars glued up, so making progress. OK, that was a picture of 5. If I was going to write down all the ways this project could go a crapper it would run a page and a half, I mean if I single spaced. Might have been better if I hadn't told you folks what I was doing, but I still think it will work.
  2. 3 points
    If it were me, I would sell it and buy a new one. Even if it was another 735.
  3. 2 points
    The machine is extremely easy to work on. When i replaced the standard head to HH on mine I was elated the attention to detail that was taken in the design to make the machine easy to assemble from the factory and easy to work on. I respectfully disagree. The noise reduction was huge.It went from foam ear plugs with ear muff style over top to just using some reusable 20 DB plugs.
  4. 2 points
    I have some cull 3B pallet grade lumber. It may have a hole, in one or two boards. Will that work?
  5. 1 point
    Thanks for the help Dave and Coop......I may need to call on you hardworking boy’s in the future for help.
  6. 1 point
    I'm glad someone has the skill, creativity, and energy for projects like this because I sure don't!
  7. 1 point
    i'M STILL FOLLOWING ALONG INTENTLY EATING MY POPCORN. bah caps lock.... #@*$ it i'm not retyping that.
  8. 1 point
    This is so far beyond my capabilities...not going to lie though I am enjoying following along. Thanks for taking the time to share!
  9. 1 point
    I'll pick Coop up on the way by his house, should be there in 20 minutes
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    For those that haven’t seen this is how the start air drying the oak lumber before it gets to the kiln.
  12. 1 point
    The helical had has has many advantages, noise reduction is just one. But don't expect a huge reduction in noise. All the screaming the machine does when no wood is going through comes from the universal motor and chip ejector fan, which isn't going to change.
  13. 1 point
    I am on my second 735, the first one died after about 10yrs. I was in the middle of a rush project and didn't try to fix it. I did however cannibalize it to salvage parts for future repairs. 1. I don't remember seeing a tensioning mechanism for the drive train, doesn't mean it isn't there, I wasn't looking. 2. I think you will have to replace the rollers, I just don't see how the rubber could be replaced easily. I didn't save the rollers on my old unit, they were badly worn. 3. The gear box for the speed change is on the left side (behind the height locking knob). It is fairly simple with 2 chain driven gears and a spring loaded tensioner. If it is not working I would suspect that the spring has broken or is disconnected. One of the gears might be stripped. 4. Since you are adding a helical head, you will remove the cutter head lock. If you don't go with a helical head the lock is a simple spring loaded post and should be a simple fix. 5. I highly recommend the helical head. I have had mine going on six years now, and in my opinion made a really good machine even better. While your in there, replace the Vbelt for the motor to drive head. Dewalt is in love with this little belt, they want $44 for a new one. I did a quick search and found replacement rollers for about $74 each. This is where I buy my parts. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw735-type-inch-planer-parts-c-1009_2664_2987.html?source=gaws&gclid=CjwKCAjw_MnmBRAoEiwAPRRWWxvaIXUhNYo_k_bmDQe6Hg1MKTLkccc_b_f_fVN2o4hfOSPY27810hoCBUoQAvD_BwE Good luck.
  14. 1 point
    My lifting 215 lbs days are long behind me. No. I'm lying. There was never a day when I could lift 215 lbs.
  15. 1 point
    Wait boy’s let me get that 9/4 board.
  16. 1 point
    Don’t worry about the ole sawmill boy he will get the job done. Please don’t cry at the price! Ain’t that nice!
  17. 1 point
    Ken, I meant to say that a bigger motor also needs a bigger impeller.
  18. 1 point
    No, but if you adjust the knob a little in one direction and then spin the upper wheel by hand you should see which way the blade is adjusting.
  19. 1 point
    Most bandsaws have a knob on the back side that allows you to change the tilt of the upper wheel which will adjust were the blade runs on the wheels.
  20. 1 point
    I come down on the side of using 6/4 and more pieces. Hint. when you laminate the pieces, try to have all the peices with the grain in the same direction, so that if you ever use a plane on it, you 1won't get tearout.
  21. 1 point
    Ooh man, if I could get 16/4, I happily would use that over a big glue up of 6/4 boards. With no functional difference, I prefer the look of thick sticks for the top. Between face and edge there shouldn't be much of a difference since board footage is a volumetric measurement.
  22. 1 point
    Congrats on the domino purchase, great tool, I still do traditional M&T joints about 70% of the time but the domino does come in handy in certain applications.
  23. 1 point
    Just because you have the domino doens't mean you have to stop doing it the traditional way.