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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I am about to begin my next build, and it has 8 drawers. As many of you know, I like making drawers ... complex drawers. And these ones are no exception.[ It got me thinking about the improvements I'd like to make to my Moxon vise. I have plans to make a new Moxon vise, using steel screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted, and all the parts are waiting in my workshop. But they will wait until this build is completed. And so I decided to modify the Moxon vise I have been using for the past 8 years. The Moxon vise is not simply about holding a board to saw dovetails. It is also about holding two boards together to transfer the tails to the pin board. In regard to the holding-to-transfer, David Barron designed a useful jig, a dovetail alignment board ... The issue I have with this is that I do not want another appliance to add to the ones I already have. But I like the idea, and wanted to incorporate it. To cut to the chase, here is my modified Moxon vise .... The first item is the ledge at the rear, which is covered in non-slip. The non-slip is for stair treads. The ledge is an idea taken from Joel Moskowitz (Tools for Working Wood), and is intended to use with a clamp when the tail board may need to be clamped. I have used clamps in the past, and so I know it is a good idea. Where this ledge differs is that it has a raised, hinged section, that places the tail board 16mm above the chop. This was also present on my previous version ... This allows the higher section to be folded out of the way when sawing ... The reason for this is that a coplanar top surface will lead to the chop being marked up by the knife when transferring the tails. This is the reason I recommend that the Moxon vise does not receive a table at the rear. It is why I prefer instead to raise the work piece up higher than the chop, out of harms way. The rear of the board is supported by the "I-beam" (which can be seen in the photos. The inside of the chop and the vise face are now covered by a material made from a composite of cork and rubber. BenchCrafted sell this as "crubber". I researched it on the 'Net and purchased a large piece on eBay. Note above that there are dados in the chop and the face. The dado in the face has a recessed rare earth magnet. I had an idea to make an integral, but removable alignment fence. This is a steel angle faced with hardwood ... It slots into the dado, and is held firmly ... And then is used in the same manner as an alignment board ... I hope this can be used by others. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. 2 points
    I just got off the phone with Titebond (they have great customer service, by the way). They've never heard of this happening and no idea what may have caused the blackening other than the ideas we have discussed, but that it wouldn't be mold, which was my first concern. He did say that Titebond II can react with iron in the wood, but that Q&T does not have that same ingredient. So bottom line is it happened once and hasn't happened again so I'm pretending it didn't happen at all.
  3. 2 points
    Typically I'll see something in a WW magazine or online and adjust to fit my needs. Although I need to step out side the comfort zone one of these days and design something myself...
  4. 1 point
    Welcome home bud!
  5. 1 point
    I’ll start by waxing and see how it goes then i took my “huge spindle” and turned it into a couple potential bowl blanks. Anyone recommend cutting some 45 degree corners to ease the shaping?
  6. 1 point
    Here's s little experiment that has worked out really well. I'm tired of connecting and disconnecting dust collection fittings so I thought I'd take more advantage of the chip blower on this planer and fashioned a simple box to receive the saw dust. I put in a "window" of pillow case (don't tell the missus) and window screen to allow pressure to escape and used two PVC flanges to mount 4" hose through the wall of the cart. I just planed a significant amount of of some 10/4 basswood and it works better than I expected. Not a speck of dust anywhere. Anyway, just passing on an idea that's working really well so far.
  7. 1 point
    Having plans, and a cut list of parts would be a great convenience. Unfortunately, I've never found any for anything that I could use, and spent way more time looking for plans than I have making some. That was in 1973, when I was looking for plans. I had decided to build a house to see if I could sell one, and make any money. The trouble with waterfront houses is that they have two fronts-a road front, and a waterfront. I spent days, and maybe even weeks looking over plan books, and never found the first one that had a back that looked like a front. Since then, I've built many cabinets, and some pieces of furniture, and always just drew some rough plans, and figured out parts as the job went along. These days, if I draw something that I'm going to build, it's drawn to some large scale, often just on brown builders paper with rulers, pencil, and dividers on the outfeed table to the tablesaw. Proportions are important, and the first ratios I try are 1:6, and 1:5, and often some multiple of that-things like rail, and stile width relative to overall, and tapers on raised panels, and such.
  8. 1 point
    Design it your self, that way you’ve got the only one like it, that’s what I do
  9. 1 point
    I usually just design it from scratch. If I want a general sense of proportions, I'll look online at furniture for sale and its listed dimensions.
  10. 1 point
    Do your best and if it comes out poorly just put some 3/4" trim at the top. Nothing fancy just like a chamfer trim. No one will know it's there to cover up gappy dovetails. There is no better time to try than right now.
  11. 1 point
    Hey @Chip Sawdust, A couple of thoughts I want to put out there for you on your stump. You mentioned that you are looking at making a bowl, but I wanted to point out that the log is on the lathe in what is generally considered spindle orientation rather than bowl orientation. You're not breaking any laws here, but typically for a bowl the grain direction is perpendicular to the axis of rotation. For spindle work such as candle holder or pepper mill the grain runs parallel to the bed of the lathe. The end grain is much more difficult to cut than the long grain and it is also more difficult to finish smooth. That said if you were making a pepper mill you would hollow out the end grain, so nothing is stopping you from making a bowl in this orientation, but you will probably find it easier to do with the grain running the other way. Of a little more concern to me is that your blank includes the pith. Just like with flat work the pith is undesirable. As the wood dries there is differential shrinkage such that the pith will send a crack radially through the log. If you succeed in completing a turned piece it will likely not survive drying. But be aware that the log is drying as we speak, particularly as you remove more and more material so there is a real danger that it will crack while spinning on the lathe resulting in what I like to call an "event of great badness". Let me get this message out there.
  12. 1 point
    This post is how my shop sat for about a year. I finally got sick of the lumber storage. I touched on it a bit in another thread that i bout some racks and was working on changing my storage around. It's been a week of moving lumber around in my shop and also moving some out to the shed. I have a good bit in my shed and a good bit still in my shop. As the stock in the shop decreases i'll use some of these shelves for other storage and keep most of my lumber in the shed. So the lee valley lumber rack is AWESOME!!!! It's super expensive but in my opinion after owning it it's totally worth it and then some. If you can get a good solid attachment to studs ect the system will hold more weight than what ever you attach it to. The brackets move around easier than most systems and the don't wobble and take up a ton of space like the other high capacity systems. I can do a pull up on the 18" brackets and there is no shifting or creaking what so ever. I'm not saying this hypothetically i did a couple to prove it. The pic below is where my 2x4 lumber rack used to sit. It was 8' long 6' tall and stuck out from the wall about 28". What i replaced it with leaves enough room for me to get a 2nd bandsaw and a small lathe or a large lathe if I so choose. The long storage is high enough that i can walk under it. Which is to say most/all of you would hit your head i'm 5'6". I also had a weird space by my dust collector that didn't have a lot of utility. It was just long enough that i could fit 8' lumber there and have space to change the bin. This also meant that i needed a place for the 10' and 12' boards that i have. There just so happens to be a convenient space above my jointer for such lumber. I was able to nestle the boards between the 2 drops on my collection system. The 12 foot boards tuck between the drops and the wall. The rack system that i used for these 2 is the standard box store stuff. It's capable but it's not even in the same league as the lee valley system. Now that the lumber is against the wall better i needed to address my clamp storage finally. I figured it was time to do some against the wall storage for the clamps. After going through all my lumber and finding the odd species and random pieces i had, i grabbed some hickory, sycamore, and Russian olive and made some clamp racks. I have all of my parallel clamps in one spot now which is nice. Before the 4' long clamps had to be scattered around the shop in order to be out of the way. The 4' clamps sit about 1/4" off the floor which was a bit tighter than i wanted to cut it. Here is a shot of the construction. It's very simple just some slots cut in a board. After seeing the live edge deadman on @bleedinblue deadman i learned that the shop is a great place for the live edge. This brings some natural contour to a very concrete shop so i appreciate the idea! Here is a view of the russian olive top. The shelf is to store small clamp related items like the extenders that i made. I left a few spaces for expansion but i haven't been emptying my clamp rack lately I've purchased a few clamps here and there and can safely say that i probably have enough. I noticed i didn't have a picture of my 3rd rack that is also all 8' and 6' boards. I guess i didn't want to show off my collection of box store 2x4's .... errr ebony, bocote, and rosewood.
  13. 1 point
    If you find it I'd be interested in what you think. It is typically available on Amazon, also receives good reviews there.
  14. 1 point
    My lifting 215 lbs days are long behind me. No. I'm lying. There was never a day when I could lift 215 lbs.
  15. 1 point
    For extra strength you could also use long screws countersunk into holes about ½” below the surface, then plug the holes with dowels. If you want to spend a couple bucks on something you’ll use again and again, buy yourself one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Snappy-Plug-Cutter-3-8/dp/B000H5LGOW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3JHJZTITGJ271&keywords=3%2F8+plug+cutter+tapered&qid=1556994943&s=gateway&sprefix=3%2F8+plug+cutter&sr=8-3 it allows you to cut your own plugs to cover over screw holes, which is really nice because it allows you to A, show only face grain instead of end grain, and B, get an exact match on the grain since the plugs can be cut from an off cut of the exact board they’re going into.
  16. 1 point
    I found Sapele worked well I used it for my accents in my bench