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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Wifey wanted a place to hold her iPad so it didn’t take up surface area on the table. Not very “Federal,” but functional.
  2. 2 points
    Well this is what I've come up with, pretty low class, but I think it will work. I'll need another dozen cinderblocks, but with some shims the plywood is flexible enough to manage the ground slope. I used the whole 8' sheet so there's plenty of room up there.
  3. 2 points
    I pulled this from an ".au" site but the grades line up with ours here in the US. Not that it matters since the cost is prohibitive, here's the BB ply grading system: The CD material will probably have internal voids which make it ill suited for jigs. I would lean toward the MDF unless you needed certain structural strength that some larger assemblies require. Having said that, we work with what we can get. My home state of California has degraded in some areas so that I have to pick up certain items when I am out of state. Fortunately it is a long narrow state and Nevada and Arizona are only a few hours away. I'll stop rambling; I would have some MDF on hand in your 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" equivalents. I would have some plywood around too as it can be used with the MDF if that sort of flex or sag resistance is needed. Some BC would probably do you well and you wouldn't have to buy in whole sheets. Most lumber yards around here carry what is called 'shop grade' plywood which is not an actual grade at all. This can be some A-C or B-C that didn't quite make the grade (no pun intended) and has some minor defects. Different yards will have different product that they sell for this purpose. Some will also sell edge-damaged sheet goods at a discount. A lot of folks overlook this thinking they need a perfect sheet of material. The fact is the first thing you are going to do when you use it is cut a piece out of it so you can judge the price by what your use-case is and save some money there. I just picked up a half dozen sheets of some tempered hardboard at half price due to damaged edges where it had been strapped too tight during transport. It can take some time to find your available sources for materials and consumables. Carry on and good luck.
  4. 2 points
    I am about to begin my next build, and it has 8 drawers. As many of you know, I like making drawers ... complex drawers. And these ones are no exception.[ It got me thinking about the improvements I'd like to make to my Moxon vise. I have plans to make a new Moxon vise, using steel screws and iron wheels ala BenchCrafted, and all the parts are waiting in my workshop. But they will wait until this build is completed. And so I decided to modify the Moxon vise I have been using for the past 8 years. The Moxon vise is not simply about holding a board to saw dovetails. It is also about holding two boards together to transfer the tails to the pin board. In regard to the holding-to-transfer, David Barron designed a useful jig, a dovetail alignment board ... The issue I have with this is that I do not want another appliance to add to the ones I already have. But I like the idea, and wanted to incorporate it. To cut to the chase, here is my modified Moxon vise .... The first item is the ledge at the rear, which is covered in non-slip. The non-slip is for stair treads. The ledge is an idea taken from Joel Moskowitz (Tools for Working Wood), and is intended to use with a clamp when the tail board may need to be clamped. I have used clamps in the past, and so I know it is a good idea. Where this ledge differs is that it has a raised, hinged section, that places the tail board 16mm above the chop. This was also present on my previous version ... This allows the higher section to be folded out of the way when sawing ... The reason for this is that a coplanar top surface will lead to the chop being marked up by the knife when transferring the tails. This is the reason I recommend that the Moxon vise does not receive a table at the rear. It is why I prefer instead to raise the work piece up higher than the chop, out of harms way. The rear of the board is supported by the "I-beam" (which can be seen in the photos. The inside of the chop and the vise face are now covered by a material made from a composite of cork and rubber. BenchCrafted sell this as "crubber". I researched it on the 'Net and purchased a large piece on eBay. Note above that there are dados in the chop and the face. The dado in the face has a recessed rare earth magnet. I had an idea to make an integral, but removable alignment fence. This is a steel angle faced with hardwood ... It slots into the dado, and is held firmly ... And then is used in the same manner as an alignment board ... I hope this can be used by others. Regards from Perth Derek
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    I’d guess that you need to sharpen your gouge. Changing your cutting angle or taking lighter cuts may help reduce the fuzz, but a sharp gouge is the best way. Lathe tools need very frequent sharpening, especially on larger diameter items. You get up into hundreds and thousands of linear feet of cutting surprisingly fast. With bowls, half of the cut will be end grain. Less than sharp tools will leave the end grain parts fuzzy. The TWWG bowl turning project has a lot of good info, tips, and techniques.
  7. 1 point
    Run some thin CA into the crack to strengthen it up, then some medium CA behind it to fill the gaps. Let it cure overnight, the CA will not be cured on the inside near as fast as the outside.
  8. 1 point
    I don't know if this is a book anyone would be interested in, or not. I saw one cheap for less than 10 bucks with free shipping, and saw that it was 494 pages, so I ordered it before I saw the other copies on there for over 100 dollars. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-England-Furniture-The-Colonial-Era-ExLibrary/273830345637?epid=1420900&hash=item3fc18f7ba5:g:V-QAAOSwJIxczB9l I'm sure I bought at least ten more books tonight, all cheap, but do remember seeing another one of these for like 6 or 7 dollars. I just didn't go back, and find it for you. If you do searches different ways, it brings up different books, even though they may be on the same, broad subject. Tonight, I was doing "colonial furniture book". Last night, I did, "furniture measuring drawings book". Pam says I will have to build another room for another stack of Barrister bookcases-also bought on ebay for my Colonial Virginia history books.
  9. 1 point
    Well no answer to the black glue question, but no recurrence, either. Not worried about it. I am sure that it will be gone with the final shaping and sanding. So at this point I have about 25 stars glued up, but I've run out of glue. Off to the store later today. I set a timer after every star is placed in clamps, but It's still taking longer than I thought it would mostly because I wander off and don't hear it ring. There are some slight variations in the sizes of the steps between each slice and I did manage to glue one star on turned 90 degrees. You knew stuff like that would happen, but I've chosen a very bland (read that forgiving) grain pattern so in the end I don't think these will show much. But I won't know till I get there. I am rethinking the design--within the constraints of the blank I am making up. There's something about it that I think could be better. That process will take a couple of days, but so will the glue up.
  10. 1 point
    I just got off the phone with Titebond (they have great customer service, by the way). They've never heard of this happening and no idea what may have caused the blackening other than the ideas we have discussed, but that it wouldn't be mold, which was my first concern. He did say that Titebond II can react with iron in the wood, but that Q&T does not have that same ingredient. So bottom line is it happened once and hasn't happened again so I'm pretending it didn't happen at all.
  11. 1 point
    Here's s little experiment that has worked out really well. I'm tired of connecting and disconnecting dust collection fittings so I thought I'd take more advantage of the chip blower on this planer and fashioned a simple box to receive the saw dust. I put in a "window" of pillow case (don't tell the missus) and window screen to allow pressure to escape and used two PVC flanges to mount 4" hose through the wall of the cart. I just planed a significant amount of of some 10/4 basswood and it works better than I expected. Not a speck of dust anywhere. Anyway, just passing on an idea that's working really well so far.
  12. 1 point
    My lifting 215 lbs days are long behind me. No. I'm lying. There was never a day when I could lift 215 lbs.
  13. 1 point
    Installed a magnet....