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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    You know Birdie, that’s exactly what Brock and Marc had to say and I heard but didn’t listen! Thanks bud! So from here on out, mine will a Coop Coopered Low Back Chair, an original!
  2. 3 points
    I bought some 5x5 bb ply not to long ago and didn’t have my trailer so I strapped it to the top of my Suburban. I looked liked some darn carpetbagger going down the road with a mattress on top. Whatever it takes!
  3. 2 points
    I'm retired and have been woodworking as a hobby for 45 years. Currently, I'm in the middle of making a Shaker inspired Sideboard of Ash and Black Walnut. My most recent completion was a Nantucket style bench.
  4. 2 points
    Larger, heavier, more expensive machines have a better chance of maintaining accurate setpoints. A sliding miter saw is designed for carpenters, not furniture builders, and generally will be difficult to set and lock to a perfect angle. I find that when such precision is needed, a carefully built jig for my table saw gives me good results. The shooting board and hand olane is another good option. Understanding the movements of your machine, where and how it might shift or flex under stress, is key to using it effectively. And sometimes, the machine is just not up to the job.
  5. 2 points
    So don't try to replicate Maloof, just try to represent him. I've got confidence in your skill. I'm sure the more you try the closer you'll get and you're probably already closer to the look and feel than you think. That's exactly what Maloof is, a feeling. It's not a rigid style or set of steps in woodworking. I watched a video of him working at the bandsaw during an interview he did. He wasn't trying to match exactly what he'd done before. He was working and shaping the wood until it had the right feel, until his eye found what it was looking for. And maybe you're not meant to do Maloof. You may love the way it looks, who couldn't. But maybe you're meant to do Cooper. That might just be what the next generation will be talking about!
  6. 2 points
    The flip side here is that shellac is very repairable. Scratches and marks in the finish and such can be readily repaired by applying more shellac.
  7. 2 points
    This going a bit glacial, but 32 stars. At 36 I switch to the smaller ones.
  8. 1 point
    Bmac, I’m not sure if this tiger hard maple good enough for you? Here’s a couple pics of a short 4/4 piece that I have kiln dried.
  9. 1 point
    What's not Federal about that, it's got an elephant.
  10. 1 point
    I never trust the built-in angle gauges or stops on tools. Using the wixey gauge is better, but still may need some test cuts and tweaking. If you do a lot of miters, it would serve you well to make a shooting board or dedicated 45* sled for the table saw. I have the Incra 1000HD miter gauge and have been very pleased with its accuracy out of the box. I took a picture frame making class and they had a Festool Kapex to cut the miters. One student asked how to verify that the miter saw was set to exactly 45*. The instructor said something along the lines of, "It's Festool, you just know it's right. You have to use a square to check other brands, but not this one." Guess what? Everyone ended up with gaps in their miters.
  11. 1 point
    Yes, the diagram on the left is my suggestion. I think I understand your concern about seating, that the wide-spread legs may interfere with user access. In most cases, I think you will find that people will step into position before sitting, rather than sliding from the end. But with narrow legs, anyone seated near the end is in for a surprise.
  12. 1 point
    Not too many top coats play well with anything that has wax in it.
  13. 1 point
    You could program the CNC router to remove a central circle from the first x number of stars. This would be similar to drilling out the waste from the blank with a Forstner bit. Make the hole the right size and you could use it mount the chuck jaws.
  14. 1 point
    I ordered and received this today. Beautiful book. The details in the pics are phenomenal. The sad part is that there’s no way in hell that I can even think about trying to even come within miles of replicating his work. Thanks Nut! https://www.amazon.com/Sam-Maloof-Woodworker/dp/1568365098/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XP4MKFQBJGFG44XY0T9Q
  15. 1 point
    The joints are all just bridle joints. Most woods in my opinion would be strong enough. I'm always partial to hardwoods and honestly, the base will make or break the whole piece. IMHO, if you're putting it on Douglas fir legs, it's broken. Not for the structural integrity, but the athletic. Either dark tones and straight grain or a contrasting wood like red jatoba or even carefully color matched Maple. The base you linked for inspiration is beautiful and should be relatively easy to execute given proper care is given to setup of the cuts in a few critical cuts.
  16. 1 point
    I think the red heughs of jatoba would be fantastic under there.
  17. 1 point
    Another possibility is catalyzed shellac, sold by VJ on shellacfinishes.com. It is impervious to almost anything. VJ will usually answer the phone and is a mine of shellac info for your questions. He sells really good shellac too.
  18. 1 point
    You are probably using a shellac that has not been de-waxed. Use Bulls Eye Seal Coat which is dr-waxed.
  19. 1 point
    Well this is what I've come up with, pretty low class, but I think it will work. I'll need another dozen cinderblocks, but with some shims the plywood is flexible enough to manage the ground slope. I used the whole 8' sheet so there's plenty of room up there.
  20. 1 point
    Run some thin CA into the crack to strengthen it up, then some medium CA behind it to fill the gaps. Let it cure overnight, the CA will not be cured on the inside near as fast as the outside.
  21. 1 point
    I'm not particularly a big fan of slabs but I do like the design of that base. Considering the color and swirling grain in your slab, I'd think you would want to go with something nicer than D Fir for your base. I like something dark with a little more action in the grain if it were me. First thing that came to mind for me was Jatoba but I don't know that you need something that hard or at that price point. The color would work well, however.
  22. 1 point
    http://www.woodsmith.com/ has excellent plan, I build my first piece using their plan. They are very detailed and also, includes extra info about technique specific for the project. If you do not want to subscribe, especially if you are looking for a specific project, they do sell them individually.
  23. 1 point
    I have used Fine Woodworkings plans and they are decent, But sometimes I was puzzled with what they were thinking. I have used Rockler's once and didn't care for then at all. I think Marc's in the guild are excellent and come with the added benefit of the videos. But most of the time I just sketch something out on paper with dimensions and create a cut list from that kind of as I go with the drawing.
  24. 1 point
    Having plans, and a cut list of parts would be a great convenience. Unfortunately, I've never found any for anything that I could use, and spent way more time looking for plans than I have making some. That was in 1973, when I was looking for plans. I had decided to build a house to see if I could sell one, and make any money. The trouble with waterfront houses is that they have two fronts-a road front, and a waterfront. I spent days, and maybe even weeks looking over plan books, and never found the first one that had a back that looked like a front. Since then, I've built many cabinets, and some pieces of furniture, and always just drew some rough plans, and figured out parts as the job went along. These days, if I draw something that I'm going to build, it's drawn to some large scale, often just on brown builders paper with rulers, pencil, and dividers on the outfeed table to the tablesaw. Proportions are important, and the first ratios I try are 1:6, and 1:5, and often some multiple of that-things like rail, and stile width relative to overall, and tapers on raised panels, and such.
  25. 1 point
    Then there is Marc's blanket chest project, in the guild. https://thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/gg-blanket-chest/ Not frame and panel, but good proportions.
  26. 1 point
    Design it your self, that way you’ve got the only one like it, that’s what I do
  27. 1 point
    I usually just design it from scratch. If I want a general sense of proportions, I'll look online at furniture for sale and its listed dimensions.
  28. 1 point
    I know a lot of people get plans from one of the wood working mags, i think it's fine wood working, Otherwise most of the stuff i do is from my own plans.
  29. 1 point
    He knows it’s purty! He’s put in a lot of labor and love on this shop!
  30. 1 point
    I have the same saw. I tension 3/8” and 1/2” blades to above the 3/4 mark on the gauge. I’ve done this using a few different manufacturers of blades and never had a problem. Try cranking up the tension and see what it does. Also, you might have trouble properly tensioning a blade over 1/2”
  31. 1 point
    I was already to type an answer and see you got it handled due to the correct and timely answers of the others. Simply, moving the top of the wheel toward you (screwing "out" the adjustment knob) will move the blade away from you toward the center of the wheel - what you need in the first picture above. The opposite will have the opposite effect. The bottom of the gullet, not the center of the band, is what should be centered on the wheel. That, in short, is the Snodgrass set up and a very efficient one. It's not the tool I use the most but my bandsaw is top three of my favorite tools in the shop and a proper set up, when you figure it out, makes it even more fun to use. Don't go by the markings built into the saw. Get a feel for proper tension and tracking by listening to the sounds your saw makes, both on good and bad cuts, and the sound it makes when you strum it like a fiddle string. It should make a nice, tight "ping." You'll recognize the sound when you hear it. Happy resawing!
  32. 1 point
    I come down on the side of using 6/4 and more pieces. Hint. when you laminate the pieces, try to have all the peices with the grain in the same direction, so that if you ever use a plane on it, you 1won't get tearout.