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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/26/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Fairly simple monitor riser I made for my desk at work. I used a lot of suggestions from you guys on this project. All in all this simple thing took an incredible amount of time. Not only because life has been extremely busy which makes getting shop time hard but because I am apparently just a slow woodworker. I would love to just chalk my slowness up me always trying new techniques and joinery for the first time but if I am honest with myself I just don't have a very fast pace. But I suppose the slow pace is a good percent of the enjoyment for me. I have a stressful job and two young kids so I am "GO GO GO" all the time. Getting to take her easy in the shop is often needed. So if you can't tell from the angle this is red oak. Specifically it is that really wide board on top of the pile. That was about 11" wide. I got that pile for $100 from some guy on OfferUp. It was a really good deal that I felt that I could not pass up, but I am actually not that big of a fan of red oak. I find the natural color to be a bit bleh and I really don't like the tiger stripe effect that happens when staining red oak. But I have a pile of it so I decided that I just need to find a way to like it. I only have a 6" jointer so the only way to flatten this board with my current set of tools will be by hand. I just needed to get one side flat enough to run through the planer. This board has some challenges. It is cupped and bowed. Not only bowed but bowed in two directions, kind of like a very subtle letter "S". It also has reversing grain. Boy was I in over my head here. I have never tried to flatten a board this wide, and I have never tried to flatten a board this long. But I have the tools to do it so I grabbed my scrub plane and got after it. I tried and tried to get this darn board flat across it's entire length but I just have not quite developed the skill to do that on such a long wide board. What I ended up doing was cutting the board shorter. A shorter board is easier to flatten than a long board. My intent was for this riser to be around 70" long, I had to throw that out the window if I wanted to use this board. But I got it done eventually. I used the table saw to cut the miters, I taped them real good to create a tape hinge. The clamping setup was a bit awkward and I actually applied a little too much clamping pressure and pulled the tape hinge on one side open just a bit. I hit you guys on these forums up on what to do to fix it. You guys gave me the burnisher technique which worked like a charm. Thanks for that everyone. While the glue was drying on the miters I milled and fit the "front". I cut the angles by hand just to see if I could do it (I also had plenty of red oak in case I screwed it up) and to my surprise it worked great. For the dividers/supports I wanted to use a dado joint instead of just a butt joint....you know.....because I'm fancy. I also wanted to try cutting these by hand all Derek Cohen style. Now I don't have Derek's Azbiki saw. And I don't have Derek's cool magnetic saw guide. Nor do I have his experience. Or skill. Or know how. So needless to say these did not turn out quite as nice as Derek's hand cut dados do in his build journals. But they turned out ok. One was just a bit tighter than I would have liked. The other one was a bit looser than I would have liked. Both of them were not as clean as I would have liked. But these are on the underside so who cares. They are solid and look good from the front. I had left these supports/dividers a bit long so I needed to trim them down. I decided that cutting these by hand would be much quicker than pulling out my table saw and cleaning it off so taking great care I marked the line and got to cutting. This is a longish cut to do free hand for me so I was nervous about it. I wanted to cheat and cut on the waste side of the line by a lot then just plain down to the line, but Chrisopher Shwarz (my favorite woodworker.......and spirit animal) says that "If you can see the line, you can cut to the line, any line." So I put on my big boy pants and gave it shot. Turned out not too bad. Just had to clean them up a little bit with the plane. Why am I including such a small detail like cutting a couple of boards? I'm not sure why but these cuts were a big deal to me. For me, half the joy of woodworking is learning the skills. So being able to free hand a long cut like this meant a lot to me. I'm far from an expert or anything close to being an expert but pulling off this cut was the proof in the pudding that I am learning the skills. You know the whole dopamine reward of setting a goal for yourself and achieving it thing. This was one of those small things that meant a lot. Glued in the dividers and glued on the front. Now I need to figure out how to finish this red oak in a way that I would not hate it. I decided I wanted to try tinting shellac. So I went to Woodcraft and bought some shellac flakes and some Transtint dye. Then I went to a thrift store and got super lucky, the first thrift store I went to had a digital food scale, a coffee grinder and glass jars. Now to teach myself how to shellac! I tried lots of different combinations on some scraps. I tried using a sealer coat then the dyed shellac over that. I tried using just dyed shellac. Shellac with just a little bit of dye. Shellac with lots and lots of dye. Just about all of these combinations ended up with tiger striping. I took all these samples to work to see which would look best with my desk. I was not trying to match my desk I just wanted a color/tone that would compliment it. And you know what combination looked the best? No combination. Just regular amber shellac with no dye at all. Shellac has a bit of a learning curve but I think I got it. I wish this picture did this justice. The amber shellac makes this red oak glow. So I think I may have found a way to like red oak after all. Which is good because I have a lot of it. Last I am adding a slot for cable management. Doing this after finishing was a huge mistake. I was so nervous the whole time that I was going to scratch the crap out of it. But I was extremely careful and got through it without incident. Chopped out the waste with a chisel. Then hit the whole thing with steel wool then finally a coat of wax. I don't remember where I heard that you should wax everything but I am so glad that I heard it. Wax just makes whatever finish I do better. And with that I was done. Just needed to bring it to work and take some glamour shots. So here they are. Thanks for checking out this small build. Of course suggestions and criticisms are welcome, just be gentle I have a fragile ego.
  2. 6 points
    I just finished restoring this Stanley 25 low angle transitional plane. It was in very bad shape with lots of pitting; I had to get another blade as the one that came with it was unusable. I was pleasantly surprised that it took such a nice shaving beings this type of plane has no chip breaker.
  3. 4 points
    Thanks much. One of the trickier details was fitting the doors to the cloud lift arch. trying to get the consistent reveal all the way around took some thought. Here's how I wound up doing it. I first matched the upper door rail to the bottom of the cloud lift and clamped it in place with the spacers I use for the offset. Then I added the right stile, again with the offset, then the bottom (no offset spacer which gave me room to trim), just working my way around. That method worked out really well. Once all four pieces were in place I scribed the panel to fit and added in the offset for the dado. The back of the panel had to be flush with the back of the frame since the actual drawer fronts are attached to it.
  4. 4 points
    Still no video put together but here are a few shots of the current status. The ebony "pegs" on the lower doors (actually drawer fronts) are just electrical tape I used to play with different arrangements for the real ones. If anyone follows Darell Peart on IG you may have seen his posts about updating his finishing process since he did the Fremont Night Stand guild project. He's trying to get away from ARS and VOC's in general to a safer and less toxic process. He posted that he was going to Livos Kunos oils, specifically cocobolo for the color and natural as a topcoat. I took his word for it and tried it on this project. All I can say is wow. Very simple to use and great results. I still need to attach the "door" fronts to the file drawers and make the pulls, then it's just detailing it and putting finish on the rest of the piece.
  5. 3 points
    Started by taking decking boards up at low spots. Dropped 4x6 into water where we wanted it bolted to the dock structure. Set up 3' high section of scaffolding around it, with 2' walkway on both sides of post. Drilled 1-3/4" hole near top for short chain to hold top of 2 ton chain hoist. Another 3/8" chain around the joist next to the post. Using chain hoist, pull piling down, which also raises the sagging dock up-putting a lot of weight on the post. That will pull it down 2 or 3 feet without touching the piling. When it stops sinking the post, I get on top of the scaffolding, and pound it down with a 35 pound dumbbell. I thought about making a heavier driver, and hanging it over the post under a 12' step ladder, but decided to try this first, and it worked fine. There is sandstone down there not too far. After several taps with the dumbbell, the chain hoist is used to put more pressure on the post. Once the post gets too low to comfortably hit it while on the scaffolding, we disassemble the scaffolding, and BIg Mike drives it down the rest of the way until we hit the rock. Then I drill a 5/8" hole through post, and joist, and install 5/8" galvanized bolt. Top is cut with small chainsaw. The builder had cantilevered a 2/8 joist out 4 feet, and used that point to hold three other supporting joists at the intersection. Those spots had sagged about 3" each, and broken the 1/2" bolts in the posts down the center that were supporting that cantilever point. It was built in 1987, by the owner the only year the lake was lowered. It's amazing it lasted as long as it did, but the old style treated wood is still hard as a rock. We had the last post set by 10:45 this morning, but by then that 35 pound dumbbell, the heat, and humidity, said we were done for the day. Tomorrow, we'll replace the decking boards we broke getting them up, because of the old rusted decking screws (from back when decking screws were not much more than galvanized sheetrock screws).
  6. 2 points
    Well done, I have one suggestion. The surface of your desk is slick, where the monitor sit on flat cut oak. It'll move if touched, or bumped. Try some 1/8" cork on the feet of your riser. It should help stabilize it.
  7. 2 points
    Yes, that is correct. I’ll post another photo after I attach the fronts. I’ve been picking cherries all morning.
  8. 2 points
    I would have purchased mine from Rockler except for the fact that I couldn't get the different colors. I am happy I have the different colors. You shouldn't have t resort to this when the manufacturer offers multiple colors to begin with Rockler and maybe other places just need to make simple adjustments to the shopping cart service to take better care of the customers I make the grits on mine but it is the color that makes it an easy grab for the grit you want.
  9. 2 points
    I recently had a friend request to have a media console made. He moved in to a hip condo downtown that was a remodeled space in some factory or warehouse. I asked him what style he wanted he sent me a picture we decided on dimensions and i started building. I got to pick the wood. Beings that i didn't really care to do oak and stain and light wasn't what he desired cherry was the obvious choice. I didn't take many pictures of the construction because it was very similar to the drawer system i made for my closer but I thought the end result would be appreciated. In the following picture you can see the completed case. I used 1/2" Cherry procore ply. It had a center core of fir surrounded by 2 mdf cores that had the cherry veneer on top. I picked up the ply off craig's list for a mere $35 a sheet. I used some home sawn edge banding to make the front edges. The top corners were mitered. It was my first time doing a long miter like that and i'm quite happy with the result. It was the biggest source of stress for the project. For ease of construction the back was 3 pieces and i glued everything together starting from 1 side to the other. Planning everything was tricky and fun. The holes on the bottom are for fans to cool the central cabinet. He didn't want any shelves. The dimensions of the sides are 20" x 20" x 12.5" deep. The only other thing that my friend insisted on was that the front had to have continuous grain. He originally thought plywood but my first thought jumped to how I would edge plywood and make that look good. My 2nd thought was where i'd get 3/4" ply beings that the one yard that i knew carried it had closed. I found another yard but learned that it would be cheaper to do solid wood. Luckily i knew of some 10.5" wide cherry boards that were just what the doctor ordered. I found some nifty brushed aluminum and to maintain the clean lines mortised them into the door. Here is a shot that shows the side and the top highlighting the most important miter. This is the first thing you'll see walking into the condo from the front door. Because of the lenght i wasn't able to do a waterfall edge :(. He wanted it to be 7' long and 20" tall so ..... that was a missed opertunity. And i was holding what i think is the best for last. The continuous grain front. To make sure that i maintained the continuous grain but also didn't short my self on material i made the center doors as 1 unit and cut the whole thing an inch long. I dind't know how the kerf was going to shake out and didn't want to take risks. Luckily i noticed that there was some strain grain between doors 3 and 4 if you number left to right that would allow me to loose at least an inch if needed with out being noticeable. So i did just that. Other wise the other doors are separated by a kerf width. I don't think the picture does it justice so if it seems life it falls short it may just be the crappy camera phone picture. I'll someday get a better one with the TV in place for scale. I also added in some cable management as well as a permanently mounted power strip that is wired in place. I don't really like making money off my friends but this one made me a good chunk. I priced fair but scored some cheep material.
  10. 2 points
    It’s unfortunate Rockler won’t let you select the color choice online and doesn’t offer a full set. Different colors for different grits sounds handy.
  11. 2 points
    I'm super impressed Drew. That thing is gorgeous! How long would you say this took you? I ask because your build speed is baffling to me. I may be the slowest woodworker ever.
  12. 2 points
    Lakeville, southwest metro
  13. 2 points
    Last year I was redoing the siding on the back of my house. Doing a relatively high level energy efficiency job. Replacing all of the fiberglass insulation with ROXUL, using polywall liquid applied flashing to seal the mudsill to the slab (and waterproof the mudsill with isn't treated) then a layer of zip r-sheathing. That's when the trouble started. as we were adding sheets of the sheathing, we noticed the slab was slopping. All told, we found the slab was out of level by Over 1 1/2" over 32 feet. This required that every sheet of Zip had to be individually cut on a angle (thank god for my Festool track saw). Once this was done and the new Pella windows installed it was time to try to make the hardi level. After a lot of futzing, we finally got the first row done. On one end of the house, 1/4" overlap of the sheathing, on the other, almost 2". I have found that absolutely nothing on this house was built using a plumb bob level or square. Every project is an adventure. I'm not sure if a woodworker should be doing rough carpentry, as I cut my sheathing with a track saw or table saw. Maybe I'm too picky, but the results, while likely too slow, are pretty nice (and who doesn't love tongue and groove Sapele soffit outside my exterior doors.
  14. 1 point
    Working through some dried blanks. This bowl is 10 5/8" diameter, 5 1/2" height and will be gifted to a birthday girl next month. Basic, twelve-segment rim of cherry upon a body of honey locust. This is all I was able to salvage from a tree taken down in the church's memorial garden back in 2017. I blocked off a whole afternoon with a pile of downed logs, thinking that I'd score some bowl blanks and maybe even a few long cuttings for lumber. Silly me. Honey locust is a bit off the beaten path as lumber goes and it's a trick to work. Apart from the blazing yellow color in the sapwood, it's a brownish ring porous domestic that could be mistaken for oak or ash. And then you try to split it with a wedge. And you try. And try. And you find that locust is not only magnificently dense and hard, it's also ridiculously interlocked. My 10 lb sledge bounced off this wood and I swear I could hear dryads laughing in the distance. After exhausting myself, I contented myself with a single bowl blank and a lesson well learned. Once dry, it turned just fine, responding perfectly well to a small gouge, a scraper, and a round carbide hollower.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Complimenting you on the design.
  17. 1 point
    Hey Gents! New to WoodTalk and woodworking, looking forward to being inspired by the wonderful content here and have access to the wealth of knowledge. Wanted to say hello and let y'all know what I'm working on this week. This is a dining room table project I have been chipping away at for a few weeks now, made from oak that was given to me years ago. I have carted this lumber around through three moves and finally felt confident enough to use it on a project. For my first go at a breadboard, well any mortise and tenon work for that matter, I am very pleased with the outcome. Hope to have the everything sanded and prepped for finish by the weekend.
  18. 1 point
    Not sure if you are saying that as a pro or a con. Three reasons for this though. 1. I need a second monitor so wanted the platform to be big enough to handle that. 2. What you don't see in any of these pictures is how incredibly messy my desk usually is. I wanted this thing to be big enough so I can slide papers, keyboard, mouse and other stuff under it to hide the mess when I need to. 3. I don't like doing things they way they are "normally" done. I'm a contrarian by nature. I don't even do it on purpose. I'm just naturally difficult. (Read: PITA)
  19. 1 point
    Little different design then you normally see I was expecting something just under the monitor.
  20. 1 point
    Rockler is running a special on these for the 4th. Preppin Weapon
  21. 1 point
    Most of you just don’t do it enough. When your full time job is dealing with all the lumps and bumps, you plan for it. Planning for it means less surprise and greater efficiency. Even in new construction, “nothing” is plumb...”nothing” is square. The eaves are full of bird poop.
  22. 1 point
    Joshua, seeing that you are from Santa Fe, TX, my thoughts and prayers have been with you and your community. I hope your family and friends are safe and sound.
  23. 1 point
    I learned a long time ago, that to split those gnarly woods. You have to wait until the temp is below freezing for a week or more. Then it splits like oak.
  24. 1 point
    Nice job giving that piece a new life, and that shaving shows it still has lots of woodworking to do
  25. 1 point
    Hi Elizabeth, Welcome to the forums. I have the Kreg router table, with casters for mobility. I haven't added a lift yet. If I had known when I was looking at router tables that I would be buying a Sawstop cabinet saw, I would have foregone the table and bought the router wing for the Sawstop. I may do that anyway at some point - one can never have too many routers, or tables.....or something like that.
  26. 1 point
    Made for a catchy title. :-)
  27. 1 point
    yes sir they are, i think it is called a haunched tenon. The fit up was nice but the tennons look like a beaver with a chipped tooth got after them
  28. 1 point
    I think for a router table it really depends on your budget, your space, and what you want to do with it. @Mark J has suggested an excellent setup if you want to go with a higher end (and is probably what I would do if space and budget weren't a concern). For me personally, I have the fixed base from my Porter Cable 1 3/4 HP variable speed router attached to a Kreg plate in the wing of my table saw. It gets the job done, and having it on the table saw saves space and helps with stability (as compared to a small bench top router table). Even a cheap and simple router table, which can be as crude as a piece of plywood with your router bolted to it on a couple of sawhorses and a piece of wood for a fence, is extremely useful. You can see mine here in my table saw wing with a flush trim bit in it:
  29. 1 point
    I found the die grinder very helpful on my sculpted bar stools. For me the third one was the charm. I started with a Makita battery operated but it was to big and not enough power. then I went to a electric one (can't remember the brand) again to big. I ended up with an IR air powered one that worked awesome and in a very small package. The down side is you will need a bigger air compressor then a pancake style.
  30. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum Elizabeth.B. I assume by all in one you mean a table + lift + router? If I were looking today I would start with the SawStop table and lift and compare others to it. For a router I suggest the big Porter Cable.
  31. 0 points
    Dave have you ever seen a ambrosia maple crosstie? I hope it go’s to Houston.