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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/07/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I was planning to next post with the completed Harlequin Side table, however it has been two steps forward and one back. Selecting the drawer fronts .. well, I've cut and recut them a few times, and only now satisfied with the result. It is no small deal each time since a drawer front has to be fitted into a recess that is shaped like a parallelogram. And if the fit is not good enough ... well, a few would-be drawer fronts were discarded. What parts are needed? Well, the drawer sides are 1/4" thick - too thin for grooves, so there will be slips to support the drawer bottom. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I use frequently, as it is a light wood that allows the drawer fronts to be shown to their best, and it is available quarter sawn. The drawer back will also be Tassie Oak. The drawer bottoms are solid wood and 1/4" thick. Rather than use Tasmanian Oak, I thought I would add a little life with Tasmanian Blue Gum. It is quite similar is texture and tone (although the photos here do not show this), but has more figure. Enough here for 8 drawers ... Drawer sides and drawer fronts ... Great sander ... Mirka Ceros ... These will be the drawer bottoms. The board in the centre is the Hard Maple case back ... Do you think anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? The making of the drawer slips may have some interest. I used Tasmanian Blue Gum (because it links to the drawer bottoms). This is quite interlocked and any planing with a plough to form either grooves or beads would be expected to end unhappily, with much tearout. I have posted this tip before: add a 15 degree backbevel to all plough blades to create a high 60 degree cutting angle. The 3/16" beads were ploughed with the Veritas Combination Plane ... Brilliant finish ... ... and a 1/8" groove for the rebate in the drawer bottom was ploughed by the Veritas Small Plow ... Again, tearout free ... This is a mock up of the intersection of the drawer front (back), drawer side into drawer slip and against a drawer side ... Note that the drawer front is straight/flat at this stage but, once dovetailed, they will be shaped to curve along the bow front of the case. These are the timbers I have chosen for the drawer fronts. This is what gives the side table the harlequin name. Three timbers: Black Walnut, a pink Jarrah, and figured Hard Maple. Keep in mind that there is no finish at this stage ... Next time hopefully with everything completed. Regards from Perth Derek
  2. 2 points
    Pretty quick and simple to make. There's quite a few videos out there on making them, this is just my take..
  3. 2 points
    In a small home bound hobby shop, it's a very rare thing that two machines will be operating at the same time. Even if you leave one machine running while using another, the one running will not produce dust. Add one person, and you still have at 2HP enough volume of air moving to work properly. I'm not trying to create an arguement, but in a small one person hobby shop, a 2HP DC is enough. If you plan to add people and machines, obviously you need to upgrade.
  4. 1 point
    It's not a complicated jig.. Just takes a minute to explain if it's not understood.. Pretty much just like everything in life.
  5. 1 point
    You know, I hate to admit it but, it took the whole video before I could totally grasp the concept of this. Sometimes you just can’t make a too simple of an instructional video. Thanks Kev!
  6. 1 point
    I’ve seen and wondered that as well. I think it means that you can go back and forth between two machines without having to close the gate to the one you just used. That or more than one person as you suggested.
  7. 1 point
    Coop, the underside of the slab never had any problems. The poly on the top side was obviously ruined, so I used a card scraper mounted on a handle to take it off, followed by sanding up from 80 grit to 220 with the ROS. The color penetration was deep enough that I only needed to touch up a couple of spots that wore through. After the last of the lye had dried, I took a pass with 320 grit before starting the clear coats.
  8. 1 point
    I did scrape and sand away all the bad poly. I also reapplied the lye to re-color some areas that sanded through during the process. I then neutralized any remaining lye with a wash of vinegar & water. Allowed to dry for 48 hours before continuing. I also kept the AC on in my work space to limit humidity changes. No signs of failure so far. Piece looks good after 2 coats, but I'm going for 5 as it is a high-wear surface.
  9. 1 point
    The bench shoe rack is glued up with a coat of finish on it now. Pretty happy with it! Thanks for the finishing advice. If only I had better lighting for pictures..
  10. 1 point
    A frustrating Sunday: I began installing the horizontal divider/drawer blade, and my spatial confusion (or lack of concentration) kicked in. In went the divider ... upside down! Well, fortunately it jammed half-way and could not be glued in ... Knocking it out, however, caused the rear section of the panel (it is made of three boards) to break off. It was glued back again, but the panel needed to dry before starting again, and so I lost my Sunday afternoon. This table is destined for the Perth Wood Show at the start of August, and I am already battling with time as weekends are generally all that are available for woodworking. Fortunately, I had this afternoon (Monday) off from my practice, and had a couple of hours to try and catch up a little. The glue dried, and the panel was fine. It was sanded to 240 grit, and then installed. Ditto the side dividers. All went smoothly ... all lined up and everything is square. Clearly I have been a good boy The reason why the table is termed "Harlequin" is that the drawers will be a mix of different timbers: Black Walnut (x3), Figured Hard Maple (x2) (both from the USA), and Tasmanian Blue Gum (x3) (which is local, of course). The drawer fronts all curve, and I spent the last part of the afternoon cutting out the Walnut blanks. This will will give you an idea of the effect .. Unless someone is interested in a walk through in dovetailing on the curve (which I have posted here previously), the next images will be the completed table. Regards from Perth Derek