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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/09/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    So I had all this scrap wood left from the previous owners roof deck. I was planning to toss it, but decided to plane a scrap. I assumed it was just garbage pressure treated pine, but it turned out to be cedar. I ran it through my planer. Took a bit of work going back and forth, but I now have a huge pile of cedar. I'm thinking I can make a farmhouse style table with it. I've got it stickered in my garage for drying.
  2. 3 points
  3. 2 points
    If only you'd known it was cedar you could have put the planer 10 feet to the right. Then you wouldn't have had to clean up.
  4. 1 point
    Yeah, I've not done much reclaiming. I've got a lot of projects around the new house, so I'm happy to have these boards drying out in the interim. Right now, after drying, I'm thinking I could laminate them to create some 1.5" final thickness stock pretty easily. Ripping between the fastener holes, I can get around 4" or 5" wide hole-free stock I believe. Though, for a farmhouse table top, I'd probably fill and leave them, for character.
  5. 1 point
    I love cedar. Good for you to check it out. There's a ton of things you can do with it, the least of which is bird houses (my sister just asked for one ;-) If nothing else then cedar planks to cook on.
  6. 1 point
    Definitely check it for nails with a magnetometer. I don't want to dilute this suggestion so I'll stop here.
  7. 1 point
    Here is the piece I have been working on these last few weeks. (Thanks again to those who helped me with a couple of urgent matters that arose). I have a few name ideas I'm considering, but haven't settled on one yet. I plan to take this to the American Association of Woodturners meeting later this month, so I have a little time on that. Technique is the same as I have described before, although this time I cut back the sides to slim the pillars and accentuate the shape.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Coop, work some overtime before you come in. I may have a few Mtn Pear’s for sale for a $1.00 ea.
  10. 1 point
    I spared you all my miserable progress on day 1 and 2 . New location. I had to gather up a bunch of the stock that I had been stashing at friend's and relative's homes. I had probably overstayed my welcome but, made up for it with the usual trinkets we woodworkers find to gift folks with so, all seems well. When no one was looking I appropriated one wall of a storage shed out back. I built a similar vertical storage rig to those that I "placed" at the previously mentioned friend's and relatives homes. I promised to go back and remove them . . . It is only partially full and the trailer is almost empty. I am hoping those two situations balance out in the end .
  11. 1 point
    OK, that's it. I'm officially jealous.
  12. 1 point
    I was planning to next post with the completed Harlequin Side table, however it has been two steps forward and one back. Selecting the drawer fronts .. well, I've cut and recut them a few times, and only now satisfied with the result. It is no small deal each time since a drawer front has to be fitted into a recess that is shaped like a parallelogram. And if the fit is not good enough ... well, a few would-be drawer fronts were discarded. What parts are needed? Well, the drawer sides are 1/4" thick - too thin for grooves, so there will be slips to support the drawer bottom. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I use frequently, as it is a light wood that allows the drawer fronts to be shown to their best, and it is available quarter sawn. The drawer back will also be Tassie Oak. The drawer bottoms are solid wood and 1/4" thick. Rather than use Tasmanian Oak, I thought I would add a little life with Tasmanian Blue Gum. It is quite similar is texture and tone (although the photos here do not show this), but has more figure. Enough here for 8 drawers ... Drawer sides and drawer fronts ... Great sander ... Mirka Ceros ... These will be the drawer bottoms. The board in the centre is the Hard Maple case back ... Do you think anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? The making of the drawer slips may have some interest. I used Tasmanian Blue Gum (because it links to the drawer bottoms). This is quite interlocked and any planing with a plough to form either grooves or beads would be expected to end unhappily, with much tearout. I have posted this tip before: add a 15 degree backbevel to all plough blades to create a high 60 degree cutting angle. The 3/16" beads were ploughed with the Veritas Combination Plane ... Brilliant finish ... ... and a 1/8" groove for the rebate in the drawer bottom was ploughed by the Veritas Small Plow ... Again, tearout free ... This is a mock up of the intersection of the drawer front (back), drawer side into drawer slip and against a drawer side ... Note that the drawer front is straight/flat at this stage but, once dovetailed, they will be shaped to curve along the bow front of the case. These are the timbers I have chosen for the drawer fronts. This is what gives the side table the harlequin name. Three timbers: Black Walnut, a pink Jarrah, and figured Hard Maple. Keep in mind that there is no finish at this stage ... Next time hopefully with everything completed. Regards from Perth Derek
  13. 1 point
    Loving the fact that Coop just posted a great Maloof Low Back Chair. Always happy to see other sculptured pieces on here. Just finished this Walnut Maloof Rocker, as I've stated before, my hands down favorite all time woodworking project. This is my third rocker and my first in walnut. I started this rocker the last week in April, and it was a double build, meaning I am building 2 at the same time. The other rocker is cherry and it's still in the shop waiting for final assembly and final sanding. For those that have done these, you know that final sanding is no small or simple step. My sanding goes to 400 grit before applying finish and I use 0000 steel wool to apply a few coats of the finish. My finish of preference is 3 coats oil/poly mix followed by 2 coats oil/wax mix. Didn't use Osmo for this rocker, but I will likely try that on a rocker in the future. This build went very smoothly, minimal issues. I've have some small details I'm learning to refine with this build, I'll try to point out those small details, but for the most part it looks like most other Maloof rockers. Countless times I've looked up this rocker online and through other venues, and it's easy to make this piece look clunky. I've seen it done with flawless woodworking technique, but it didn't look organic, flowing, or inviting. Hopefully you don't think that when you look at this piece. A perfect pose, the rocker next to a Maloof style table with a Maloof book to inspire you. A few details I like in these rockers. First, I really like the horns, these are time consuming to develop, but worth it in my opinion. Die grinder does a lot of the work, then a lot of scraping and sanding; The crest of the head rest needs to flow into the front of the horn, you can see the line from the front edge of the horn detail blend into the top edge of the head rest. Head rest and horn from the front, again a line that needs to flow; The underside of the headrest to back leg is also an area that takes a lot of work to blend. A rasp and a lot of hand sanding is the only way to get this done. I like the middle of the headrest to project down, I like this look much better than the continuous sweep you see in a lot of the rockers; This side view of the head rest shows the sweep and contours; The arm to back leg joint is pretty straight forward and easy to shape. Key is to make it look fluid and continuous. The interesting part of this joint is on the inside. This is a common feature seen in the original chair that is often duplicated. This gives the look as if the arm was carved from the back leg. The arm to front leg joint takes a lot of work, as you have end grain and long grain you are blending together. I don't like the big paddle shaped arms you often see on most of these rockers. I like a more narrow arm and with it converging more as it approaches the back leg. The shaping of the arm is a lot of work also, but Marc does a great job in his build guiding one through the process. So much is made of the leg to seat joint in this piece. I find that to be pretty straight forward when you use the paired router bits. Shaping these joints are harder than doing the joint. And this by far is the toughest area to shape. Finally, the leg to rocker joints. The joints that give me the biggest pucker factor. Drilling thru the rocker into the back leg, after you have spent weeks on the chair is the absolute most tense moment of this build. The good thing is after you have shaped the whole chair, shaping the legs to the rocker is one of the easiest areas to shape. The detail I add in the front is from Marc's build and I like it, you leave a little extra in front of the leg to converge that excess into a point, sweeping up from the underside and in from the sides. Thanks for looking.
  14. 1 point
    Watch some of this guys videos he knows his trade https://www.youtube.com/user/johnsonrestoration
  15. 1 point
    Doing a good long lasting repair that respects the original piece is a complex job. It looks like those aprons are secured with screws, so hopefully they can be removed. You could do as @wtnhighlander suggested & cut off the tenons & replace with dowels, or you could cut back the tops & bottoms of the tenons to give them a shoulder of 3/8" or so. Please, please, please, do not use the pressure treated turning from HD. It is not an appropriate wood, it will not be strong enough for this application, and it will be ugly. A new turning, all out of one piece, complete with the block will be best. But if you can't get a replacement turned, then cut off the block & attach a new one with a dowel. Cutting mortises in the new block is certainly doable with few tools, a couple of youtubes, and some practice. I would keep the end of the mortise back at least 1/2" to 3/4" from the bottom (leg end) of the block because there is a lot going on there with the dowel through the middle & the mortises. If your joints end up a little loose, then use epoxy to glue it all together. It has much better gap filling properties than wood glue. Do not use polyurethane glue if there are gaps. You'll see some say that because it foams up a bit while curing it will fill the gaps. It will fill the gaps alright, but that foamy glue has little strength. Empirical testing has proved this. Good luck with this & please let us know how things turn out.
  16. 1 point
    It appears that these legs broke because they used a 'cheating' form of mortice and tenon, where the mortice is cut with a router from the end of the leg. Simple machine operation than a proper closed mortice, but leaves the leg weakened against splitting, as you discovered. The ideal repair would be to ruen replacement legs from solid timber, and use closed mortices for the apron attachment. Barring that, I would try making new upper "blocks" and dowel them into the turned leg as the originals appear to be. But your blocks should have closed mortices, with at least 1/4" of wood at each end. Since you aren't experienced at this, I'll suggest a simpler method. Purchase a "flush trim" saw from you local home center. Cuts on the pull stroke and is very flexible. Use it to remove the existing tenons from the apron pieces. Or use an was if you can remove the apron from the case. Make the cut flush with the apron shoulder, then use dowels to attach it to the new upper blocks. I would also suggest NOT drilling the center dowel for attachment of the turning all the way through the block. That just leaves it easier to split again.