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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    One of Megan's friends wanted an outdoor connect four game made. She sent me a picture and it looked easy enough so i said sure. The construction is pretty simple but became very tedious very quickly. I used a hole saw to drill out the game board from 1/4" pine ply. Using a 3.5" hole saw with a hand drill was not very fun and the drill caught a lot and beat me up quite a bit. The main structure is 1/4" ply sandwiching some slats that separate off the rows. I used some random hardwood, i honestly have no idea what it is, to make the internal structure as well as the legs. The next part was to make the game pieces. Again hole saw but this time 4" and i used my drill press. I had some 1/2" birch ply that was waste from making some drawers. I quickly learned that stacking pieces of ply would decrease the time it took to cut these out. I also figured out that if you position the hole saw so that part of the saw goes over the edge it clears the saw dust from the kerf and the saw cuts a lot more efficiently. Another trick is to drill a hole in the kerf. I hit the edges with a chamfer bit and gave them a quick sand. Followed with some paint. The project materials were requested to be lower in quality and painted. I wanted the whole thing to come apart for easy storage or transport. This was an interesting solution and i just borrowed some ques from the table top game. I used some thread taps to tap4 1/4"-20 holes and then mounted 2 bolts on either side. On the leg i drilled a 1/2" hole and then cut a slot on my router table. i think this is called a keyhole or something.... I used a chisel to remove some material towards the hole so there is a taper that pulls the sides in and sort of locks them in place. It works well, you can pick up the whole thing and the legs don't fall off but are easy to remove. The dump function was the most difficult part and I'm not sure that i did so well with it. If it doesn't work I'll offer to redo it but this was the best option i could think of that didn't use hinges and a catch. I didn't want to put any more money into this than i had to as it's more of a gift than something I'll ever make money on. After stainless steel fasteners material and finish I'm probably loosing on this deal anyway. It's simple and mimics what i used for the legs. It's not as easy to use as i hoped but it's not bad. Finish was some medium brown trans fast dye applied with HVLP and then 4 coats of Minwax spar urethane water borne formula. I don't much like this finish as it gives the dye and wood a green cast. Maybe it just needs to dry fully. I will probably use the rest of the can on junk projects and there is a good change it'll just get tossed. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Pro-Series-32-fl-oz-Satin-Water-based-Varnish/999918584 I wanted to use General Finishes exterior 450 but their distribution network sucks, Rockler was closed and a 30 min drive so i use minwax products.
  2. 4 points
    These drawers were my first time doing half bind dovetails, aside from the condor tails on the Roubo. I marked them out carefully and used the drill press to hog out the waste. I had to modify my fence to allow the bit closer in, so that I could use it to set the distance to place the bit on the baseline. This drill press clamp is fantastic, especially for repetitive operations like this. After that, I went to the bench to chop out the waste, starting with the board flat and then finishing with it vertical in the leg vise. Not sure if this is the recommended procedure, but it worked for me. I was pretty satisfied with the fit I had on these. I found them a little fiddly, but not nearly as bad as I expected. I cleaned up the pins on the back of the drawer as well and I've now got drawers. These need a groove for the bottom and a finger pull and they're done. I was originally going to use inset ring pulls, but I didn't leave the fronts thick enough, so I think I'll just put a notch for a finger at the top instead.
  3. 4 points
  4. 2 points
  5. 1 point
    Well you don't see that written very often
  6. 1 point
    No progressive. If I were loading ACP or other semi-auto calibers I may have bought one of those, but that’s why I have buddies!
  7. 1 point
    Thanks Richard. I have contacted the sawmill in-question to ask and they told me they do have kiln-dried soft and hardwoods. I am trying to work out the budget for the wood in the project at the moment, but I think I might end up having to call or visit them. There seems to be a huge variance in how much sawmills charge for dressing (surfacing four-sides) their lumber. I have found locations in the US that add around a dollar to the rough lumber cost of each board foot, whereas somewhere I found in Ontario with a public price list seems to instead multiply the rough-lumber price by four! I am thinking of making a journal thread for this project so I can make my plans there.
  8. 1 point
    For how much these cost a domino is probably cheaper.....
  9. 1 point
    As you and others have drilled into me, pics or it didn’t happen! Tacos! Good to hear from ya bud!
  10. 1 point
    HAHA! I haven't turned the cutters yet I will after this project though. Hard maple dining table
  11. 1 point
    I may be missing something but with proper milling of your edges you shouldn't really need something like this. I did a table top that was just shy of 6 feet long and 38 inches wide and I only used 5 clamps and at that hardly any pressure. I did use a few of the smallest dominos, the ones about the size of chiclets, for alignment but that was it.
  12. 1 point
    In general it's true a power feeder makes sense only for production work. But as shown in the video I posted, it's faster to set up my little power feeder than it is to set up Board Buddies, which amateur (and even professional) woodworkers use frequently as a safety and quality of cut enhancement on the table saw. Like with Board Buddies, you don't need to (and really can't) put your hands anywhere near the blade, and with the feeder you don't even need to use a push stick. This is really nice for even a moderate number of short pieces. For resawing on a band saw a power feeder can increase the quality of cut by holding the stock tight against the fence over much of the full height of a wide board and keeping the feed speed uniform, and especially without stops. With expensive figured wood that can mean more slices of veneer per billet. On a router table, with a power feeder you can do some jobs climb feeding, with the direction of cutter rotation, which can give a cleaner cut, especially in figured woods..... So there are advantages in some situations other than high volume. If you're looking to do profiled trim in high volume though the Williams and Hussey suggestion is right on. There are other options too you might find cheap on CR, like old Belsaw machines, that can crank out miles of molding.
  13. 1 point
    If you’re serious spend some money and look at Williams and Hussey moulding machines, I’ve used one and they will run crown, base and trim all day long, power feed, 220 volt, standard knives and also custom profiles are available
  14. 1 point
    As far as I can tell, a power feeder is only useful for production of multiple parts. Meaning it's for commercial use more than a hobby shop. Pushing a board through a saw by hand is still a power feeder in my mind. If someone needs a power feeder to cut one board, that tells me that person should take up checkers as a hobby.
  15. 1 point
    I found some redwood from an old deck, a few years ago. My wife loves the garden bench that I made.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    I was planning to next post with the completed Harlequin Side table, however it has been two steps forward and one back. Selecting the drawer fronts .. well, I've cut and recut them a few times, and only now satisfied with the result. It is no small deal each time since a drawer front has to be fitted into a recess that is shaped like a parallelogram. And if the fit is not good enough ... well, a few would-be drawer fronts were discarded. What parts are needed? Well, the drawer sides are 1/4" thick - too thin for grooves, so there will be slips to support the drawer bottom. The drawer sides are Tasmanian Oak, which I use frequently, as it is a light wood that allows the drawer fronts to be shown to their best, and it is available quarter sawn. The drawer back will also be Tassie Oak. The drawer bottoms are solid wood and 1/4" thick. Rather than use Tasmanian Oak, I thought I would add a little life with Tasmanian Blue Gum. It is quite similar is texture and tone (although the photos here do not show this), but has more figure. Enough here for 8 drawers ... Drawer sides and drawer fronts ... Great sander ... Mirka Ceros ... These will be the drawer bottoms. The board in the centre is the Hard Maple case back ... Do you think anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? The making of the drawer slips may have some interest. I used Tasmanian Blue Gum (because it links to the drawer bottoms). This is quite interlocked and any planing with a plough to form either grooves or beads would be expected to end unhappily, with much tearout. I have posted this tip before: add a 15 degree backbevel to all plough blades to create a high 60 degree cutting angle. The 3/16" beads were ploughed with the Veritas Combination Plane ... Brilliant finish ... ... and a 1/8" groove for the rebate in the drawer bottom was ploughed by the Veritas Small Plow ... Again, tearout free ... This is a mock up of the intersection of the drawer front (back), drawer side into drawer slip and against a drawer side ... Note that the drawer front is straight/flat at this stage but, once dovetailed, they will be shaped to curve along the bow front of the case. These are the timbers I have chosen for the drawer fronts. This is what gives the side table the harlequin name. Three timbers: Black Walnut, a pink Jarrah, and figured Hard Maple. Keep in mind that there is no finish at this stage ... Next time hopefully with everything completed. Regards from Perth Derek
  18. 1 point
    When doing multiples, cutting the pieces, the dados, routing the joints, fitting the joints, and doing the glue ups, you save a good amt if time. For the shaping I save some time too since I get into the groove and have the shape I’m shooting for in my mind. Like shaping the arms, it goes much quicker when doing more than one. But you are correct, doing multiples, you do not really save time when it comes to the sanding
  19. 1 point
    I've opted to go the route Marc did in the jewellery chest videos. It's a standard half blind dovetail for the front, and a single through tail for the back. I think this keeps the look without going overboard. I cut the tails on the table saw again. I really like how easy that is. I just need to do a little clean up with chisels and then it's on to pins.
  20. 1 point
    The other day I was picking up some 12mm BB at the local plywood purveyor & had a discussion about the product. Baltic Birch is manufactured in 5' x 10' sheets These are cut in half for the export market for shipping reasons. That's why we get the goofy 5' x 5' sheets. The 4' x 8' is similar to Baltic Birch, but used a different adhesive & is exterior rated. That glue tends to gum up cutting edges worse, leading to burning. Another thing that I don't think has been mentioned is that because it's hardwood all the way though, it holds screws tenatiously; far better than softwood ply. It's also sometimes a good idea to drill pilot holes for screws to keep from stripping out the heads.
  21. 1 point
    Easy visual determination of BB ply versus veneered ply.
  22. 1 point
    Call it Purple Rain Walnut. Or flat rock Walnut.
  23. 1 point
    Heres the outside so far Coop. Still got to mount it to the vacuum chuck and remove the tenon and and sand that last bit.