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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/15/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    My buddy, Carl helped me get it inside this afternoon.
  2. 4 points
    You know that feeling: Driving along and you spot some discarded logs on the side of the road and then your friends roll their eyes as you pull over to look through the pile and then they pretend not to know you as you open the hatchback? Yup, in this case, I found what I'm guessing is box elder. In fairness, I've pulled some dried blanks from the pile and pushed them across the finish line as gifts over the past several months. That said, I have neither the space nor the time in the shop for a round of rough bowl blanking. That said, I couldn't just leave them there and it's going to be a long night.
  3. 4 points
    First, welcome. Second, the router you listed does appear to include a plunge base. A round baseplate is not necessary, as the circle jig appears to attach to the router frame in place of the baseplate. Any straight cutting bit can cut your circles, bit IMO a spiral bit leaves the cleanest cut. If you use a downward cut spiral, and a waste board under the workpiece, you can achieve cuts with almost no splintering or tear out. I suggest cutting each pass at a depth no greater than 1/2 the bit diameter. Taking larger bites risks overheating and/or breaking the bit. Also, you can save some cash and just use a strip of plywood to replace the circle jig.
  4. 4 points
    After rough sanding the dovetails flush, the gaps don’t look as bad. I filled a couple of them with slivers of cherry, but left the others. I also cut the rails and stiles to final dimension and cut the grooves for the door panels. I picked out stock for the door panels and resawed them on the table saw and then planed down to ~1/4”. I left them long so that I can pick section I want for the panels. I’ll use dominos on the door assemblies and glue up clamped to the case for alignment. Afterward I’ll plane flush and set the gap. Then on to the drawers.
  5. 3 points
    Of course, I agree with everything you say there. If God wanted us to stain maple, he wouldn't have made it so blotch prone.
  6. 3 points
    The Jasper jig is designed to be used with a 1/4" bit, and a spiral is the way to go. I like to stick the board being cut to a waste board with a bit of 2 sided tape to keep the center waste piece in place when the cut is complete. I don't know that it's necessary, but having that waste piece shift & possibly ruin the hole makes me nervous.
  7. 2 points
    Hey, free wood is free wood, I think all the non woodworkers are a little off
  8. 1 point
    Following on from my first thread, I thought it might be a good idea to make a project journal so I can keep a log of what I'm doing and maybe get some input. Having done some previous bits of woodwork as a teenager, I am now getting back into it as an adult. Last summer I fumbled my way through a couple of small/simple pieces. This year my plan is to make some more furniture for my 6 month old son's nursery. I would like to work with some hardwood, and pull off some nice joinery. My original plan was to make him a toybox (rough plan attached). However, after making my plan I spotted a few issues: I am limited in the types of box I can make. I will likely not have access to power tools, so I cannot easily modify the thickness of the wood I get (except by hand) and I do not have a way of cutting dados (otherwise I could maybe make a frame and then slide-in panels for the sides). The plan I had uses far more wood than I would have expected. By my best guess, this would be very expensive (though I could maybe switch to pine). The toy box would also be very heavy, even the lid. I was hoping to make something relatively safe! I then worked out a plan for a shelf. We change his diapers at the moment on a changing pad on the dresser. We also keep his next outfit, diapers, wipes, and all his various powders, potions, and lotions on that dresser too. He is reaching the age where changing time becomes the opportunity to play with all of those things. My plan is a shelf that can hang on the wall above and to the side of the changing bad (not putting anything above him in case something falls). I want a shelf up top, and some pegs below to hang his clothes, towel, etc. Compared to the toybox idea (which I would still like to find a way to do), this shelf seems pretty do-able (plan is attached). In the plan I have the top and bottom of the back as separate pieces that slot into the sides with mortise-tenon joints, however I have since thought I might like to fix the back with a dovetail joint and only use the mortise-tenon joint for the shelf. My plan is to use a mix of cherry and maple so that the joints are a visible part of the design. I have a local sawmill who sell cherry and maple, I am hoping to pay them a visit soon to hopefully pick up some dressed wood. Tools-wise, I have a knife, cheap back saw, some chisels/hammers. I think my father-in-law has some planes and a panel saw he could lend me. I am hoping to buy a dozuki saw, and a honing guide to sharpen chisels/planes very soon. I am planning to finish it with shellac and beeswax. I like the idea of using a finish where I might also be able to turn any maple offcuts (I think cherry might be less safe because of cyanide-like chemicals it contains?) into blocks or shapes for my son to play with. I would welcome any suggestions or input.
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    Yes exactly. I store it in a box that also has a homemade angle stops. Open the box, put the blade in the guide, size it to the correct angle based on the stops, and hone away. Pretty fast and easy.
  11. 1 point
    That's not a bad price for that table. I'd charge more if someone wanted one
  12. 1 point
    Any piece is worth what the market will bear. If people are buying them then, he's hit the right market at the right price.
  13. 1 point
    I received for my Birthday, from my to younger grandkids a gift card to my lumber yard. They told their mom they wanted to give "Paga" some wood to build something with. My daughter told them that I should pick the wood out myself but that they could get me a gift card from the lumber yard. When they went in they were told that they didn't have gift cards but the guy at the counter went over and cut them a piece of pine and told them to give that to me and tell me what it was for.
  14. 1 point
    If the price fits your budget, get them while you can. Opportunity rarely knocks twice. The buy a 4-piece set from Harbor Freight for $7, and learn to sharpen on them. They make good throwing chisels.
  15. 1 point
    With a back saw and chisels, you can make almost any joint. All it takes is patience. With a drill and a few clamps, you world opens wide. Don't let the lack of fancy tools keep you from building. That shelf design might be a little weak with the back mortices so wide and close to the edge of the sides. Grain direction of the sides will play a big role there. I would consider closed mortices, instead. And yes, you can cut them using the tools you listed.
  16. 1 point
    He was probably trying to air dry some cross ties and just happened to be standing in front of the fans.
  17. 1 point
    Management always has it easy
  18. 1 point
    Beautiful piece! Well done! Mine would be a fraction of that size. One pair of tennis and two pair of flip flops.
  19. 1 point
    The bench shoe rack is glued up with a coat of finish on it now. Pretty happy with it! Thanks for the finishing advice. If only I had better lighting for pictures..
  20. 1 point
    Thank you very much for all of your great replies. Thank you, I will go with your advice and look into options for getting these chisels sharp. I do have some scrap wood around my apartment so hopefully I can try to get this done before I begin the project. Unfortunately my location (west of Montreal) seems to be a bit of a "black hole" for woodworking groups (at least from the online lists I found). There is a woodturners club somewhere around here, but by my understanding their needs are different? I had wondered whether I could get away without a honing guide if the back is already decently flat and the bevel seems good (i.e. only sharpening the tip). On the other hand, if I am hoping to find a hand-plane somewhere in my father-in-laws boxes of old tools then I would probably want to sharpen that completely. Also, how about sharpening saws? Is that something that also needs to be done frequently? I have a book that describes the process and it looks to be very "involved". I have memories of using wet & dry paper in school (weirdly a lot of our "workshop" teaching was done with acrylic plastic, rather than wood as the material). I think I will have to go with this method in the first instance because of the relative expense and storage space of getting "proper" sharpening stones. I have been trying to resist buying too much new equipment without being regularly able to work on projects, but a Japanese saw is very appealing. I read your post, what a terrible thing to happen. I hope you have a speedy recovery. Thank you for the advice. For the Japanese saw, do you have any recommendations for brands etc? I am wary of buying tools on Amazon, but I can find Japanese saws for around $30 Canadian. On the other hand, for only $10 or so more I find this nice-looking one on Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32936&cat=1,42884,42898 ... however if I were to drive to my nearest Lee Valley store I may end up picking up a few more items (along with a shovel for my wife to bury me with). That website looks like a fantastic resource, thanks! Part of my issue is that I know that I will also have to drop some money into actually getting the wood for this project. That's still a question mark in the budget. I have found a local sawmill, who I believe should be better for price than going to Home Depot. I have not planned out my work sufficiently yet to predict how much I am likely to pay for that wood. I am excited to get a decent workshop setup once I have a house of my own with a garage. For the moment my limited opportunity to spend time woodworking means its hard to justify spending much on it.
  21. 1 point
    Absolutely, you need to be able to sharpen as you work. It doesn't have to be a large investment. A usable jig can be had for $15, and wet/dry sandpaper on a marble tile can get you through a few projects. I suggest reading as much as possible to understand what makes an edge sharp, and how the various systems work to achieve that. Understanding is 95% of getting it right. The rest is practice and attention to detail. The back saw that came with your miter box can certainly cut dovetails, but without a solid workbench to hold your parts, it will be a frustrating experience. I suggest buying a japanese style saw that cuts on the pull stroke. They allow the user's body weight to work as a clamp to hold the work. And they can be had at very little cost.
  22. 0 points
    I had to cut a few slots in the side of a cabinet. 1/4 inch wide X 1/8 deep using a 1/4 dado blade. What could go wrong, right. @#$^&$#^ on the last cut, had a kick back. Ring finger on my left hand is about 1-1/2" shorter, pinky about 1/4" shorter. Don't EVER think it's such a small cut you don't need to be as careful. Over 30 years and this happened #%$@#$@&. BE CAREFUL. At least there was so much nerve damage it doesn't hurt. Be glad to get back into the shop.
  23. 0 points
    Since it was so shallow I (idiot) didn't use a push block. Didn't I say I was a moron! I went back out to the shop to hose it out and vac the table saw. It's kinda hard to do things 1 handed.