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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/31/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Cut a guide block of wood the right angle to hold beside a drill bit. There are many ways to do it very precisely, but that should be good enough for a handrail. I've built many.
  2. 3 points
    FINAL PICTURES We are done building the side table. Here are pictures (taken with my iPhone6). The case is Hard Maple from the USA. The drawer fronts are Black Walnut, figured Hard Maple, and pink Jarrah (hence the name, Harlequin). The drawer sides are quartersawn Tasmanian Oak, and the drawer bottoms/slips were made from Tasmanian Blue Gum. Finish was, initially, two coats of dewaxed UBeaut Hard White Shellac (the very faint amber adds a little warmth), followed by three coats of General Finishes water-based poly (this remains clear - does not yellow the maple - and appears to have some UV protection. It is hard wearing, which is necessary for a side table). The build features mitred, rounded dovetails and bow front and back. Eight drawers featuring compound dovetailing to match the bow front. Drawers are traditional half-blind dovetails at the front and through dovetails at the rear, with drawer bottoms into slips. About 2 months to build, mainly on weekends. Here is the rear of the table (which will be seen through the windows, which run floor-to-ceiling along the family room ... The pulls were shaped from what-I-believe-to-be-some-type-of Ebony ... The obligatory dovetails ... Do you think that anyone will notice that the drawer bottoms run sequentially? And this one is for Bill, who was concerned that the chamfers at the end of the drawers (to ease entry into the case) might impair their extension ... A last look ... Thursday morning I haul the table to the Perth Wood Show for the annual furniture competition. Wish me luck. Regards from Perth Derek
  3. 2 points
    That is really a beautiful piece and great craftsmanship! I’ll be looking for it to be in the back section of FWW in the next few months. Good luck at the show.
  4. 2 points
    Somebody want to tell @Spanky that break time is over
  5. 1 point
    I started this a good while back but chose not to do a build on it as I figured it might go into the fire pit at anytime during the build and it came close several times. My daughter asked for a chair for her desk and I have always wanted to try it so I gave it a go. Initially it was going to be built from some walnut I cut and dried and I figured I would do a prototype from some cherry. After several months of wrestling with it, I don’t foresee a walnut chair in the future. Plans were ordered from Charles Brock and I picked up several pointers from Marc’s rocking chair build. Three coats of ARS glossy and three coats of GF top coat. The only places I’m not real pleased with are the arm to leg joints.
  6. 1 point
    Just got this today and Used it to square up a piece of stock. It's flawless, as my experience has consistently been with LN products. Right out of the box, the blade is sharp enough for whispey thin shavings, but I will definitely be doing some additional honing and introducing a very slight camber as the straight blade leaves tracks. The blade advance wheel has the least amount of slop of any plane I've ever seen. The chipbreaker is sharper than the blade of some manufactures planes and the overall fit and finish is outstanding. The locking screws for the frog are accessible from behind, which is nice because you don't have to remove the blade and breaker to adjust the frog. LN bills it as the heaviest of their jack planes and they ain't lying. This thing is VERY stout. Personally I find the 5-1/2 jack to be the perfect plane - immediately able to do any task. I used to square up a piece of Maple and it made short work of it. I also used it to shoot the end grain and again it performed very well. My ONLY gripe, and it's a very small one, is that there isn't much space between the blade and handle for the lateral adjustment lever. This is my first BD Lie Nielsen plane, so maybe they're all that way. Hardly a big deal but thought I'd mention it. It's not an inexpensive plane but in my opinion, they back up the larger price tag with quality that's above and beyond. I have a skewed block plane arriving tomorrow. Will post a review of that as well.
  7. 1 point
    Congrats on the new tools! There's not much clearance on any of them, but some have slightly more room. Not sure if that's due to shorter handles or the position of the handle.
  8. 1 point
    Read Tom’s carefully again. You might need a block to keep your big from skipping. This depends on the style of drill bit you choose. He, however, referenced a sight block alongside the angle you need, not a block you drill through.
  9. 1 point
    A pleasure to watch another masterful work of art. Your talent amazes me! Thank you.
  10. 1 point
    Luck is not really necessary, you have an amazing skill, and I'm proud to know you care to share with those of us that want to reach your skill. Thank you young'un.
  11. 1 point
    Hope the show goes well, that piece certainly deserves to be seen!
  12. 1 point
    Switched gears from the hardware and started working on the back and drawers. Cut plywood for the back to rough size and selected veneer. Selected stock for the drawer fronts (right) and resawed stock for the sides and back (left) Then cut to size
  13. 1 point
    Good luck. I really like the piece it has a lot of good character and depth.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks for taking us along, and the colors in that piece really pop!
  15. 1 point
    award worthy work Derek, good luck at the show!
  16. 1 point
    Another superb project Derek, it really came out nice. Hopefully at the show, but once you get it back home your wife will cover the drawer bottoms with all of her "needlework thingies".
  17. 1 point
    Good luck! Another amazing piece!! Thanks for taking us along for the ride.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I agree it can be a challenge to work with but, worth the effort. The figure makes hand tools a challenge as well; scrapers more than planes for surface prep in my shop with this stuff. Here it is mated with some Peruvian walnut. The finish is an oil/varnish blend. As mentioned the penetrating finish does soften the contrast.
  20. 1 point
    Let me add a qualifier to the foam brush recommendation. They are great for laying on Arm-R-Seal, which is thinner than brushing poly. Polyurathane that is meant for brushing will likely do better with a bristle brush. Sort of like how a pancake is good for maple syrup, but for sorgum molasses, you need a good buttermilk biscuit...
  21. 1 point
    Only need to glue the 2 sides of the pins. The base line is end grain which would be a very weak glue joint. Most woodworkers under cut the base line a little so ehich means that you won't have much contact area for glue there anyway.
  22. 1 point
    Coop, I assume that you are wondering why the slips and not a groove in the drawer sides? The reason is that the drawer sides are 1/4" thick. Not only would a groove weaken the construction, but the bearing surface is small, and wear is increased. Besides, don't the slips look better? Regards from Perth Derek
  23. 1 point
    Thanks guys! I appreciate all of the kind words. From the git go, I saw that there was going to be a lot of waste in this project. So, I weighed all of the rough cut lumber ( not the full length boards themselves but the suggested rough cuts) and they weighed 63 lbs.. I just weighed the chair and it weighs 20 lbs., but the experience itself made it well worth it.
  24. 1 point
    haha yeah that's one way about it, what's the old line... behind every succefull woodworker is a wife with a job and health insurance