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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/06/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Just completed this table/bookcase. Made from white oak. Was my first adventure in through tenons. Think they turned out pretty good. Finish was a challenge, tried some tinted shellac, and then bailed out on that. Went with just a oil based stain then some wipe on poly. This will go to the entry way at church to hold bulletins, hand outs and some books.
  2. 5 points
    The brain of any pipe organ is called the wind chest and that is the next component on the list. This is the beginning of a "slider chest". Yes, I'm using MDF and masonite. Some of the worst organ builders in the trade make their chests out of such stuff. (Some of the greats use it, too.) As I said above, this is a homely first step to get some techniques down before I make my next instruments with the good quality Baltic Birch. For all that, though, it's stable, smooth, dead flat, readily available, and it takes glue beautifully. And now I remember why I can't stand having MDF in my shop. As I said, learning experiences.
  3. 3 points
    Thanks Paul, I get excited about starting a project like this then in the middle it gets to be grunt work with not much progress to show for the effort then I get excited again when all the work starts to look like something , shop time on this project is limited as paying jobs are getting in the way, but more money for wood!
  4. 3 points
    Testament to this pumps holding power.
  5. 3 points
    I discovered that one lamp was not standing quite vertical last night, I wasn’t much but after much thought and re- cutting the bottom of the base with the router I fixed it. the rest of the shop time went to fitting the mortises for the support arms and screwing them in temporary, but progress is progress I guess, tomorrow I’ll cut the arms to length and add an outboard vertical support to each arm to center the shade and hold it in place
  6. 2 points
    Sometimes, the best way to make a dream happen is to make it happen. In my day job, I play the pipe organ. Building an actual pipe organ is a recurring fantasy for many organists and I'm no exception. For most, it never goes beyond self-indulgent and frequently silly little thought experiments. In my case, I've been dipping my feet in the pool here and there, volunteering for every organ builder who'll tolerate me in the shop or on a jobsite. I've been Sketchupping things for years and figure it's time to start making sawdust. Most recently, I did this. This thread will document the construction of a small organ known as a "voicing jack". These are used in the shop to prepare freshly-made pipes for eventual installation in an "actual" organ. I'm looking forward to this for a few reasons: It's halfway between a musical instrument and a shop project, which lowers the bar a little. Sure, I'm still going give it my best try. But, over the years, I've sat at and poked fun at plenty of instruments bearing the title "opus 1"...Surely my own opus 1 will be no different despite all of my best efforts. Building a voicing jack therefore gives me the liberty to revel in the fact that this will be a homely affair of warts and learning experiences. Since it's going to live in the shop, I can build it as a bare frame, focusing on the mechanical internals without the need to build pretty cabinetry on the outside. I can also use this as a project to hoover up all of the mismatched scraps of wood that I've been hoarding. Once it's done, there's a few research projects (nerdy mathematical and historical stuff involving pipe dimensions) that I'd like to tackle. And, finally, this voicing jack will be an invaluable tool should the day arrive that I build a musical instrument worthy of sharing with the outside world.
  7. 2 points
    Ok not gonna lie you lost me on the design for a bit but now I am really digging these Can't wait to see them with the finish and glass, awesome work!!
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    Sure, you can go straight to the bandsaw with firewood. If you have a jointer and can create a flat surface beforehand, that's even better. But I've taken plenty of wonky logs to the bandsaw. They wobble and it's kind of scary. Spend some time orienting your first cut so that the downward force of the blade is more or less supported by the table as much as possible. Then, once you've made your first cut, orient that against the table for your second cut. It gets easier as you approach your final shape. To get an initial straight line, I'll often stretch a string down the length of the log and follow that.
  10. 2 points
    Paul, what a waste. I would be honored to own a couple of these bowls, prior to the char! Please send me two of them and pm me the charge and type of payment you prefer. I did the same with reindeer king! And I realize this is a creative love for you but time is money. I bet every lady in every senior citizen living facility would really like to have one to decorate their rooms. These guys don’t wilt over time like flowers and they might even have a tax rite off.
  11. 2 points
    a little more done today, the angle of the sides at the bottom and top caused the top and bottom to not be flat, the solution I came up with was to use a 3/8” rabbiting bit in the router table and climb cut around the bottom of the base taking small cuts of course, the result is a (tenon ?) on the bottom and I plan on routing a mating groove (mortise ?) in the bottom piece that will fit under the base, I plan on making the very bottom piece bigger by about 2” for stability cut the mortises for the shade support arms and made a test piece, I used the base as a guide to set the correct angle for the support arms the top was such a small difference that I decided to put it on the belt sander with the fence set at the proper angle, worked well, I plan on cutting a 4 inch square piece for the top with a shallow rabbit and screwing it on for removal to access the light fixture
  12. 2 points
    Mmmmmm. I just love the way oil makes the grain pop! 2nd coat of oil on the body.
  13. 1 point
    There’s a pepper mill in here somewhere. It looks like firewood on the outside (had to split it with an axe) but there’s some decent timber underneath. It’s Tasmanian Blackwood - a beautiful timber and these pieces have a walnut like colour. Cut down 25 years ago according to the guy I picked it up from and that was at least 5 years ago. All I’m after is at least one piece that I can turn to a 65mm cylinder and make a pepper mill. What would be a good plan to process it? I’m thinking bandsaw to start?
  14. 1 point
    Haha! No such thing as a bad pun.
  15. 1 point
    This is going to be really exciting watching you turn your pipe dream into a reality..... I couldn't help thinking though. Weren't you building a bench? Did that get finished?
  16. 1 point
    Ace hardware and similar should carry those bolts with machine screw on one side and sheet metal thread on the other. I forget their proper name, but we always carried them at the ace dealer I worked at. Then you can buy the drywall anchors and threaded inserts and you’re set. Edit: They are called hanger bolts.
  17. 1 point
    Sure, there's nothing wrong with tipping the hat to several precedents out there. Specifically: Matthias Wandel documents a very early build. It was fun to see that he reached some of the same conclusions I reached about certain aspects of pipe construction. Matthias also followed this up years later with a repair video for the instrument. Raphi Giangiulio built a significantly more involved instrument with copious documentation and then proceeded to build three more instruments on his own before eventually taking a job with one of the finest organ builders in the western hemisphere, Paul Fritts & Company. Adding to this, there are two standout firms that build small organs with entirely wooden pipes: Klop Orgels Bennett & Giuttari Beyond that, wood organ pipes are somewhat of an outlier. They have their place in professional work; but building wooden organ pipes has always been an expensive proposition compared to making pipes of metal. Historically, much of the work of organ building focused on metal, to the extent that much of the cabinetry would even have been done by separate artisans or guilds. Building an organ exclusively with wooden pipes borders on the absurd, since the increase in labor costs and physical bulk doesn't come with much of a payout in musical benefit. That said, I know how to work with wood and I like the way my shop functions now. I also receive young visitors from time to time, so having a workspace that's constantly contaminated by lead alloys would be bad. For what I need to do, it makes more sense to stay with this rather than ramping up to work in metals.
  18. 1 point
    Wow that is really starting to pop! Awesome build.
  19. 1 point
    Yes, it’s the Birchwood Casey gun stock finish.
  20. 1 point
    Looking really good! Is that the same 'Tru-oil' sold as gun stock finish?
  21. 1 point
    White oak sawdust makes excellent worm beds. My grandfather used to get sawdust from the local barrel stave mill to use for raising fishing worms.
  22. 1 point
    Well, It's a bit of a cross between the two. Having done over 500 laminated bowls, I have a good feel for what stuff will look like when paired up.Insert other media
  23. 1 point
    The church parish house recently went through a massive HVAC renovation. Demo for that job involved tearing through a large pile of built in cabinetry and thereby liberated a massive pile of utility grade pine. Several layers of paint covered over a homely collection of knots, nails, and corrugated metal bridging doohickeys. I couldn't bring myself to see it condemned to the landfill, so here we are turning it into the frame of this instrument. As sketched, the instrument has four vertical posts, seven long transverse beams, and six short bits to connect the posts. I've glued these up as glorified glu-lams and, after several hours and about a hundred gallons of sawdust, we have what looks like this. I know this instrument will get disassembled and moved around, so the long transverses will poke through the upright posts with through mortises and wedged tenons.
  24. 1 point
    Thanks Chet, that artwork is a few layers deep and counting, I hope to make each grandkid a poster when they grow up
  25. 1 point
    Thats some good work Dave. Each time I look at this project I enjoy the art work hanging in the back ground.
  26. 1 point
    Thanks @curlyoak, I’m taking my time for sure but enjoying the process, I forgot to add that after I cut the angle on the support arms I set the blade height at 1/8” and a 1/4” away from the fence and just nibbled it away for the cheeks of the tenon and cut end of the tenon on the band saw to match the mortise and cleaned it up with a chisel, here’s a shot of the support arms, I plan on glueing the support arms in and backing it up with a screw from the inside for strength
  27. 1 point
    Shavings and saw dust will compost but it takes time. Shavings on a garden will suck up the nitrogen and there will be a deficiency. Been there, done that, and got the t shirt.
  28. 1 point
    Coop, I'd use a hand plane making sure to work in a manner that minimizes blowout. Usually that means from the sides toward the center. I usually work from all sorts of angles until i find the one that reduces the tear out and blowout. For drawers i clamp 2 boards across my bench and hang the drawer off the side. Edit: To add this is one of the reasons why having your legs flush with the side of your bench is quite helpful. It gave the box 3 points of contact and made everything quite sturdy.
  29. 1 point
    Larger, heavier, more expensive machines have a better chance of maintaining accurate setpoints. A sliding miter saw is designed for carpenters, not furniture builders, and generally will be difficult to set and lock to a perfect angle. I find that when such precision is needed, a carefully built jig for my table saw gives me good results. The shooting board and hand olane is another good option. Understanding the movements of your machine, where and how it might shift or flex under stress, is key to using it effectively. And sometimes, the machine is just not up to the job.
  30. 1 point
    Ive been playing with some rotten wood these past couple of days. The little dark colored bowl is from an old tree root that was dug up when my new septic field was put in. I sanded it to 150 and put Osmo on it to give it a softer feel, still working on building the finish. The other is a piece of badly bug eaten spalted cherry. It has a hole through one side but the wild figure and colors make it worth finishing out. This is a first coat of poly which will be sanded back after it cures fully and another coat applied to get an even gloss.
  31. 1 point
    T hit the nail on the head...you're routing uphill, against the grain. You always wanna route downhill with the grain. Buy a big ass pattern bit with a bearing on both ends so you can flip your workpiece over when necessary and route with the template on the top OR the bottom, depending on grain direction. If you can find a bit with the blades at a shear angle, even better. That's a lesson I think everyone has to learn on their own early on. I sure as hell remember the day I learned it. Poop came out of me and I just kind of stood there for a minute, reflecting on my life and thinking about how much better it is to have fingers than to not. The router table is probably the tool that scares me the most because it's the most unpredictable...especially if you don't pay very close attention to grain direction. Always downhill. Always.
  32. 0 points
    Sadly, there is not. I sell very little. In fact I'm in the process of burning 60 of my bowls in the BBQ pit because I love making them and won't stop but they are seriously cluttering up the house. I have about 250 unsold ones laying about in boxes and on shelves and need to get rid of some of them.