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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/12/19 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    The owners of the 1850 house, that we put the Cypress Shingle roof on, have had on their to-do list for me to make two pairs of window sash. They are to replace some made in 1982, that don't come close to matching the rest of the originals left in the house. We completely redid all the old ones. For several years, they have asked when I was going to get to it, but other stuff kept coming up. We had taken some of the unused (now that we have new trusses holding the sagging roof back up to a flat plane) brace posts that were in the attic, as part of a poorly designed structure, to get wood out of for the two pairs of sash I need to build. Some of those posts are seen in the first picture. It's all Heart Pine that has been drying in that attic for 169 years. It's not only dry, but Very heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it weighs more than Oak does for pieces the same size. Milling it showed that every piece was also completely stable, and no cut moved the slightest bit. Mike spent his time cleaning them, before I ran them on the jointer to get them ready to go through the table saw for rough sizing. I put an old set of knives in the jointer, because even with Mike's best effort with a wire brush, they had 169 years of dirt on them. I used a set of knives that I had decided to toss anyway, but kept them just for this job. I knew we wouldn't have enough of the Heart Pine, but I had kept some pieces of Heart Cypress from making handrails for this house. I just rough cut the stiles, top and bottom rails, meeting rails, glazing bars, and muntins today. Any sapwood you see on the Cypress parts will be cut off. Everything in the picture is cut oversize. I'll sharpen a new set of knives for that jointer tomorrow, and we'll run them to finish size. Since it's just four of them, I'm going to see how it goes to just run the molding profiles by hand. They're not exactly like any I've seen before, so if we put $1800 in a set of custom router bits, they may never be used again. If I can break even on the cost of the bits, in hand labor, both the owners, and I will be happy. I've made single sash before by hand, but these are large, nine lights, so have a fair number of feet of molding profile, and a lot of tenons to cope. I ended up running a number of extra pieces of the Cypress because I wanted to only use the heart, and cut off any sap wood. We were running close, and the top rails may end up with a small bit of sapwood, but they will be in a protected spot up in the jamb, and the windows will be painted inside, and out with Sherwin-Williams Emerald exterior paint. More pictures, and update the next day we work on them. I'm not sure if that will be tomorrow, or not. They should look just like this one when we get finished. We already have the hand blown cylinder glass cut to the right size 12x14 inch panes.
  2. 4 points
    I will! I'm just taking inventory now to decide on where to start. I think a full width chisel holder may be the first one I tackle. Here's a good chunk of the collection, although there's a fair number of stragglers in the basement or other drawers. I'm thinking I should have dropped a couple of gallery spots in favor of a taller saw till. My bigger saws will need to live in the doors now.
  3. 3 points
    Jigs, jigs, jigs. Now that I've created a perfectly sealed and airtight box, it's time to cut a bunch of holes in it. This is an adjustable jig for routing the pallet slots in the lower table.
  4. 3 points
    I finally have finish on the cabinet, and it's mounted on the wall. I used Tried and True varnish oil, with 2-3 coats depending on whether it was a wear surface or not. This gave a very nice finish, close to the wood, but it brought out the figure. I did find it went much better onto the maple than the other side of the plywood, since it was less porous. I took everything up to 320 grit. These are the outer doors open - this will probably be for less used tools. It doesn't look nearly as good as the maple, but it's fine for storage. Finally, here's the inside view of the cabinet. You can see the lag screws I used to put it up - there's 6 in the cleat and 3 through the cabinet back. I just used 2 1/2" because I didn't want to go too far into the studs behind. It's very solid. Obviously I also had to remount the doors, and I've added all the screws to the hinges. I haven't made any holders yet, but I really wanted to get this part up on the wall to get my space back. I'll pick away at them over the next little while and get my stuff moved in. I am trying to figure out if I should put magnets in the door to help keep them closed, since they don't stay right now. I'm trying to figure out if I'll stick with the layout in the plans, since I realized not all my saws will fit in the space allocated for them.
  5. 2 points
    Glad to see some specks of dust and detritus on the floor Kev. It looks fantastic - a great space. It looks like you are in a dark sky site judging by the views out of the windows? Another hobby of mine is astronomy and I've recently got into deep space astrophotography. I sure wish my urban location had darker skies. We have it spoilt by LED streetlights
  6. 2 points
    Not always, depends on the eyes looking at it. I made a step stool for my daughter that “looked right” but flips over if she stands on the edge. Agreed, definitely want the legs to be offset inward, probably not even in the same plane as the table edge. the Illustrated Cabinetmaking book recommends 14-18” knee room to allow seating on the ends. This book has a lot of good info on ergonomics for a variety of furniture.
  7. 2 points
    Sites like this one can provide a good deal of useful information to guide your designs.
  8. 1 point
    So many changes to the new shop that I thought I'd drop a shop tour mid year.. I will do another at the end of the year because there's a lot more changes coming..
  9. 1 point
    I know of a township that is trying to sell their fire truck think they want like $12k for it.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Slow but steady progress, made the cap for the top of the base that will hold the light fixture, it will be just screwed on to allow removal of the fixture if ever needed. here's the link to the fixture http://www.globalindustries.com the product# is B515704, they have all kinds of stuff for lamps and about exerting else, only $18.00 for the fixture. now i wait for a decent day to fume and wait for the shellac flakes to arrive and do some tests before the real deal.
  12. 1 point
    I use thin often, to soak into a void packed with sanding dust. I used to make guitar picks from wood. Flooding with thin CA forms an extremely durable finish for that application.
  13. 1 point
    The resort where we often stay when visiting the Smokies has (pine) log cabins managed by at least 4 different companies. The company we like best keeps their places looking very nice, but claims they apply fresh stain (semi-transparent) SEVEN times a year. Food for thought.
  14. 1 point
    The only thing in the diagram above that would give me pause is the legs appear to be wider then the top. If that's the case it would be a tripping hazard and probably needs to be adjusted.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Linseed oil alone is not typically used as an outdoor finish. And it imparts a good deal of yellow to the wood. But it is simple to apply, so the necessary frequent re-application won't be difficult. Beware, it takes a while to dry. Personally, I'd go with a clear deck sealer. Something that soaks in and repels water, but doesn't form a film that has to be scraped or sanded off when it gets ugly. Sun is going to bleach the wood, period. Moisture will encourage / accelerate fungal growth. Do what you can to limit exposure to sun and water to extend the life of any finish you decide to use.