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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/13/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Buy a bunch of pieces of foam like gymnasts use to practice tumbling into and fill the sta well up with them. Postion the saw at the top of the stairs and tip it onto the foam. Then remove the foam piece by piece from the bottom of the pile and and watch the saw slowly lower itself into the basement.
  2. 2 points
    We have white trim, carpeted stairs. Rails are also “oakish” as legenddc said. On the wall side there are metal supports (chrome ish). On the open side the the balusters and other trim under the rail are white.
  3. 2 points
    Been working on this lately. I'm trying to get it done so i can finally consolidate my firewood storage to one spot. Glued the sides together. This guy is nearly 8' long so it was a tricky job. My parallel clamp extenders have been put to use a LOT since i've made them. The center post wasn't supported very well so i ran a brace to the top back rail. I also did a grid system for the bottom with a couple support blocks. I wanted to keep the bottom support quite open so as much air flow can surround the wood as possible. I figure keeping the moisture out will help prevent the storage rack from rotting out. Used my counter sink drill bit i got from rockler to do some free hand pocket holes. I like this bit a lot and do recomend it. It's not the best but it does the trick for me. https://www.rockler.com/8-pro-tapered-countersink-bit I got the doors mounted and found some nice marine hardware that i used for hinges and latches. I'm goign to leave the dog ear on the pickets that overhang the front edge. I set it up and kind of like the look. Unless someone gives me a good reason why this is foolish. I'll post some links to the hardware later. I'm quite impressed with some of the marine hardware that is available on Amazon. Hinges are tight and seem to be well made. You can get them in 316 stainless so it should hold up outdoors for a long time.
  4. 2 points
    I've dropped Marc a note and will update this thread as I get some answers. Thanks for the interest!
  5. 2 points
    Here's where those Heart Pine 3x's came from. They were "supports" for 20 foot long 3x3 rafters. The supports were sitting vertically under the rafters, but the rafters weren't lined up above the floor joists, so they set the posts on top of old 1x used flooring boards spanning between the joists. That's the reason we were building the trusses up there to wedge the noodle rafters back into a flat plane. It was nice for them to leave us some good, straight grained 3x3's though. There was a 12 x 14" access door into the attic, but fortunately it lined up nicely with the outside steps so we could pull those 2x12x16's up there with the back doors to the house open.
  6. 1 point
    The owners of the 1850 house, that we put the Cypress Shingle roof on, have had on their to-do list for me to make two pairs of window sash. They are to replace some made in 1982, that don't come close to matching the rest of the originals left in the house. We completely redid all the old ones. For several years, they have asked when I was going to get to it, but other stuff kept coming up. We had taken some of the unused (now that we have new trusses holding the sagging roof back up to a flat plane) brace posts that were in the attic, as part of a poorly designed structure, to get wood out of for the two pairs of sash I need to build. Some of those posts are seen in the first picture. It's all Heart Pine that has been drying in that attic for 169 years. It's not only dry, but Very heavy. I didn't weigh it, but it weighs more than Oak does for pieces the same size. Milling it showed that every piece was also completely stable, and no cut moved the slightest bit. Mike spent his time cleaning them, before I ran them on the jointer to get them ready to go through the table saw for rough sizing. I put an old set of knives in the jointer, because even with Mike's best effort with a wire brush, they had 169 years of dirt on them. I used a set of knives that I had decided to toss anyway, but kept them just for this job. I knew we wouldn't have enough of the Heart Pine, but I had kept some pieces of Heart Cypress from making handrails for this house. I just rough cut the stiles, top and bottom rails, meeting rails, glazing bars, and muntins today. Any sapwood you see on the Cypress parts will be cut off. Everything in the picture is cut oversize. I'll sharpen a new set of knives for that jointer tomorrow, and we'll run them to finish size. Since it's just four of them, I'm going to see how it goes to just run the molding profiles by hand. They're not exactly like any I've seen before, so if we put $1800 in a set of custom router bits, they may never be used again. If I can break even on the cost of the bits, in hand labor, both the owners, and I will be happy. I've made single sash before by hand, but these are large, nine lights, so have a fair number of feet of molding profile, and a lot of tenons to cope. I ended up running a number of extra pieces of the Cypress because I wanted to only use the heart, and cut off any sap wood. We were running close, and the top rails may end up with a small bit of sapwood, but they will be in a protected spot up in the jamb, and the windows will be painted inside, and out with Sherwin-Williams Emerald exterior paint. More pictures, and update the next day we work on them. I'm not sure if that will be tomorrow, or not. They should look just like this one when we get finished. We already have the hand blown cylinder glass cut to the right size 12x14 inch panes.
  7. 1 point
    I can't remember where i posted them. I should probably make a dedicated post.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    We have white trim in our house, metal railings painted white but wood on top that's 'oakish'. Basement treads are oak, 2nd floor are carpet. Purchased the house like this, not sure I would have done it that way but it doesn't bother me enough to change it. Honestly it's whatever you prefer.
  10. 1 point
    They will be carpet treads. Thanks! I was thinking white but then started second guessing myself. This helps.
  11. 1 point
    Probably not the best pic, but I don't have another stairs pic at the moment. But this is how ours is.
  12. 1 point
    I have that plane and I like it. It does remove a lot of material with each pass but it has a tendency to dig, especially when cutting with the grain. I use my shoulder planes to even things up every 3 or 4 passes of the rabbet plane.
  13. 1 point
    Just wanted to check in (no pictures... should have some next update). Progress is pretty slow! Before I began, I bought the maple boards to build the shelf (reckon I actually have more than twice what I needed... hopefully the leftover boards will stay pretty stable until I can return to this hobby next year). I spent the first day sharpening my chisels, and sharpening up my father-in-law's plane and figuring out how to set it properly. The boards are around 6 inches wide (I got them ripped square on both edges) so I had to glue two side-by-side to make the shelf (going for 8 inches deep). Second day I came to cut the shelf-board (now ~12 inches wide) down to 8 inches. This turned out to be a major difficulty when my saws were limited to two backsaws (one being the Dozuki) and a crosscut saw (when I needed to make a rip cut). I ended up splitting the shelf (~20 inches wide) down to size with a chisel. I then cleaned up the edge with the plane. I glued up two sets of three boards side-by-side to make the two side pieces. I am trying to keep all of the wood in the same orientation so that if the humidity makes it move it will grow in the same direction. Third day I bought another saw. I could not find one tailored for rip cuts, but I found one which seems like it would be able to do it (Stanley Fatmax Box Saw). I cut the side pieces to roughly the right shape. I got pretty disheartened at just how slow everything was progressing. The maple seems a lot harder to work than the pine I used last year (my chisels are sharp enough that I can pretty-much sculpt the pine with them without much pressure... the maple is not so cooperative). Also my inexpert planing (probably set incorrectly) has led to some small chips and chunks being torn out of faces that should have been flat and square. Just at the end of day four now. I started cutting the mortise for fixing the shelf to the sides. Cutting it all the way across was going to take forever, so I instead made two one-inch wide mortises at either end of the shelf. I will be cutting one-inch wide pins at the end of the shelf to slot into those holes. The challenge now is how to cut the middle part between the two pins (no access for a saw, except there is a coping saw around, but I doubt I could cut a straight line with it). Current plan is to split the middle part off with a chisel again. I also dug up some power-sanders (a random orbital sander and a detail sander) that I am going to try to use to clean things up. My plan for tomorrow is: 1) Finish cutting the pins on the ends of the shelf to fit the mortises. 2) Cut the top and bottom back pieces. 3) Dovetail-joint the back pieces onto the side pieces. 4) Cut the clothes-hanging pegs to slot into the bottom back piece 5) Round over all of the front-facing edges 6) Sand the hell out of everything. 7) Tidy up! I have maybe eight hours. Wish me luck! Any tips would be appreciated.
  14. 1 point
    Thanks, Coop. I guess this one's an oddball. But at least it's in the green!
  15. 1 point
    We didn't end up laying a brick this morning. There were some voids back in the hole, from where the bricks fell down that blocked the concrete flow. Mike mixed some mortar a little bit soft for laying bricks, but stiff enough to stay up when I threw it as hard as I could back in that void. If we had laid any more bricks, the target hole would have been a lot smaller, and I knew we'd need to rinse the outside off good with the water hose after I got the mortar back in there like I wanted it. I did decide to grind down the top of that last whole brick to the right on the last row I laid. I have grinding disks with very large chunks of silicon carbide that eats bricks like they were made from cheese. I'll show a picture of how it looks tomorrow, when we lay some more bricks. After the washing with the hose, it was all too wet, which makes bricks too slick to bond to mortar for holding the next layer, but the main objective is to make sure the whole chimney is well supported, so filling that void was the thing to do today.
  16. 1 point
    Slow but steady progress, made the cap for the top of the base that will hold the light fixture, it will be just screwed on to allow removal of the fixture if ever needed. here's the link to the fixture http://www.globalindustries.com the product# is B515704, they have all kinds of stuff for lamps and about exerting else, only $18.00 for the fixture. now i wait for a decent day to fume and wait for the shellac flakes to arrive and do some tests before the real deal.
  17. 1 point
    For the first time in a long time I spent the whole weekend in the shop!! Not going to lie it was awesome First I glued the first layer of 1/2" MDF to the door slab. I used wood glue on the edges/middle and GG everywhere else. adding mass to the door will help contain the bass inside the theater. Next I drew a quick plan for the door jamb since the door is thicker than a normal door this has to be custom made. First thing I realized is that the opening was a 1/2" to narrow A few minutes with a sawzall, prybar, and various other tools and that problem was solved. This was on the non hinge side so narrowing it up a bit is not an issue. The hinge side is three 2x4's wide due to the weight of the finished door. Then it was on to milling some poplar for the job. I gave it a quick run through the drum sander after the planner. I added rabbits at the top and it was time for a test fit Today I decided I need to ponder the door jam a bit longer so I moved onto the soffit lip. To do this I had to test my LED light strips to make sure they would work as I wanted, good news no surprises. They will turn on via an Insteon programmable outlet and then can be adjusted via an app or Alexa Next I had to mock up the lip Then it was into full production mode To make the curve up front I kerfed that piece. I settled on every 3" after a couple test runs That should work nicely Then I installed them. Went fairly quick, they are mitered so the front connection was a weird angle but the gauge @Chet just put me onto came in handy. Glad that's done becuase now I can hang the final drywall and complete the theater wiring.
  18. 1 point
    As an added aid to the garbage dudes you might wire tie the trigger in the "squeezed" position. Leaves the valve open and is visually obvious that the unit is fully discharged.
  19. 1 point
    I would take them and practice with them. Take them out back somewhere downwind from autos, etc. and declare an object of some sort like a board or bucket a fire and let you, your wife and children actually use them to get the feel. The chemical compound is very similiar to fertilizer used on lawns so it won’t hurt the grass but not real good for the lungs so have the wind to your back. Once used, even if they still have chemical and pressure in them, set them aside as the remaining pressure will leak out. Once they no longer have pressure in them, you can toss them in the garbage.
  20. 1 point
    This doesn't happen often enough for my liking.
  21. 1 point
    Some final pictures. The finish I used on these is a coat of garnet shellac that I wiped on, then three light coats of General Finishes High Performance Satin. These are not something that gets "used or handled" so I think light coats will be plenty. It was more a process of getting all the raised grain and dust nips taken care or I probably could have stopped at two coats. The one on the left is my dad's, the one in the back ground and missing the flag is for my sister's husband, I will be taking it a little road trip to deliver it along with an album of the build. And the one on the right is my father in law's. When I did the engraving I did it in the same format and wording that is on each of their military head stones. A few pictures of some of the details.
  22. 1 point
    We laid a few more bricks this morning. I hadn't really figured out exactly how I was going to get good support under that hanging layer of Lime Mortar, but thought I'd figure something out once I got to that point. I didn't want to go pecking at that layer of Lime Mortar, for fear that I might loosen bricks above it. It would come right off with the right tap, but it's secure like it is, so I feel better about leaving it. The trouble with leaving it is getting the bricks below pressed up into it good enough for really good support, but not to make the joint any fatter, or have to blend in mortar later. I decided to taper the bricks, so I could butter them top, and bottom, and as they are pressed into place, it squeezes the mortar, both above and below. I just freehanded the bricks through the saw, and sliced some teeth into the sawn sides for good bite to the mortar. That worked pretty good, but I'm going to let a brick coming in from each end set up over night, so I can really pack more mortar behind it the next day. Overall, I'm pretty pleased with how it looks like it's going to turn out. It now has better support under all the face bricks than it's had for a while. I got good support under the corner too. I'm going to have to saw the bricks thinner for the last two rows to the end. I'd rather not have had to do that, but I still feel like we're on borrowed time, so want to get it all supported. The right end crushed the corbel-ed rows between the stonework, and the flat face of the brick below, and I didn't really feel like we had the luxury of taking more time with it to jack the brickwork part of it back up above the stonework. So, it will be a little bit wonky, but there will be much more there for people to look at, so we'll just live with it. I thought about shortening the height of that row, but it's a corbel step, so thought it would make the difference stand out even more if one of the stepped rows tapered down.
  23. 0 points
    Bmac, I have the red gum (sweetgum) lumber out of the kiln. But it’s like Tom King said the inside on the outside and the outside on the inside. I guess, I need alittle schooling on drying sweetgum lumber.