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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/26/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    I made a couple of floating shelves for the flag cases I recently completed. I was going to use some brakets that Kev had recommended but saw the article in the recent Fine Woodworking Magazine (issue 277) about making a floating shelf and thought I would try it. I spent $16 dollars on four "L" brackets and $6 dollars on rattle can paint. The wood was 1/4 birch ply and poplar from previous projects.
  2. 5 points
    So to keep things clear I'm making 4 Living Room tables total. All are going to be the same height which is roughly 23" #1 is done and is roughly 20"x20" #2 In Progress 42" x 10" #3 Selected material 24"x30" it's going to go over the sub woofer in the corner. #4 This is the one where I'm going to try implement the concept i posted earlier. 8"x 30" I messed up a leg and put a mortise for a domino in the wrong spot. I didn't want to fix it so I scrapped the leg and made a new one. Then i proceeded to figure out the slats for the sides. I got widths figured out cut some slices at the bandsaw and then ran them through the drum sander to the proper thickness, 8mm. The center slat is too narrow to use my typical mortise with the domino so i have to create that mortise the old school way. I decided upon a drill bit and chisel. It turns out I don't need to turn in my woodworker card as my test mortise fir perfect the first time. So i chopped out all 4 mortises i needed. By the 4th mortise i was getting the muscle memory back and managed it pretty quick. Because i wasn't confidant that i could get a perfectly strait mortise i ran a shoulder around all 4 sides of the slat. There is probably only about 1/64" on the front and back but it's enough to do the job. I created the shoulders for the slats on the table saw and used a chisel to fine tune the fit. Then i needed to plow the mortises for the bottom shelf. It's getting difficult to find a good spot on my test block so i may have to find a new test block. I use one of these on every project to make sure that the reveal is exactly what i want. I feel something like this is mandatory when working with a domino at least for me. Even using it i still mess things up from time to time. I had 2 mistakes of mortise in the wrong spot on this project luckily only 1 required a redo. Final step was to get everything glued up. I did both sides in one go and then attached the sides with 2 rails and glued 2 boards together to make the top. The long rails were a bit too tall so i put an arch in them to try and make it feel less bulky and heavy. I like the effect. It might be hard to see with the clamps in the way. I'll post a picture once i get finish on.
  3. 5 points
    Got some Osmo on this last night, and now I'm done with this chair. Love the fact that I can get a finish like this in 1 coat and I can add another coat at anytime. With the finish on you can see the sculptured features better. In this first pic you can see the original scallop at the top of the backrest and you can see the bevel I made where the backrest and sides meet. I took the bevel almost halfway down the inside of the arm and to me this really softens that part of the chair. You just need to be aware of where you domino is when you do this bevel. In this pic you get a good feel for how that 42 degree angle in the backrest and sides creates an open and inviting chair. I also think the bevel at the top of the backrest gives the illusion there is a slight curve to the top. Just another pic where you can visualize the shaping. Like I said the finish makes it much clearer. And my favorite pic. this really shows off the chair nicely. It still has some of the angular features you see in the original but the curved arms really soften the look. I was on a mission this weekend to get this first chair finished while I had some spare time. Now the second chair will be easier. I think I will definitely use the contours and sculpting details from the first chair. I'll get final pics of both chairs when I'm done and do a critical recap of the chair and the design changes.
  4. 4 points
    Just a couple of pics of recently completed wall cabinet. 26" x 18" x 7". This is inspired by Mike Pekovich and his latest book. Thank you , Mike. As I got into this one, I was amazed by the amount of work. All the dovetails and through tenons made this project great experience precise layouts and a good opportunity to explore diffferent ways of cutting the joinery. I don't have a mortiser , but I tried combinations of router, drill press, band saw, table saw and chisels. Did not use dovetail jig. Learned quite a bit. All joints are dovetails or through M&T except for the 3 thin shelves which are set into stopped dados. Cabinet is eucalyptus, door and drawer fronts are mahogany. I like the mahogany, I am not crazy about the color of the lyptus now that it is finished. I think that QSWO would have been a better choice. The back is 1/4" lyptus shiplap. It is hung with a french cleat. All pieces were finished with 2 coats of shallec and 2 thin coats of ARS satin before assembly. I will need to make another one to correct the major mistake I made with this one. Did not notice it until my first dry fit of the cabinet. But by that time all the dovetails and mortises were cut and I decided to complete it just for the education. This piece was made specfically for the cast bronze Gargoyle bell that was a wedding present from my Best Man (a sculptor). It's been in our living room wherever we lived since 1972.
  5. 3 points
    Attacked this piece some more after church and I'm happy with a few changes I made. Sanded to 320 and ready for the finish. Even knocked out the leather seat! So here is what I ended up with. I thought my first effort this morning was good, but the shaping lacked definition. It was too rounded and amorphous. I wanted some harder lines for the top of the back rest but I liked the general shape. So I put a heavy bevel on the inside of the side to back rest area and then just broke the sharp edge with 220. Here's what I came up with; I like this a lot better than before, Here's what it looked like on the other side before I reshaped so you can compare; So this is what I'm going with. Sanded and did some tweaking of the rest of the chair and here's the final product unfinished; I really like the curve on the underside of the back rest. And here it is with the leather seat cushion in place; To me it looks almost like a different chair than the plan, and it is very comfortable to sit in. Can't wait to put the other one together and put the finish on both. Thanks for looking.
  6. 2 points
    Here is an old Stanley 25 plane that I restored. It was in pretty rough shape. It cuts with the bevel up and will take a nice shaving.
  7. 2 points
    I had to slightly change my plans on how to orient the back, to avoid showing some flaws in my veneering, but I got that worked out and brought the back down to final size. They really aren’t joking how fast you can sand through commercial sawn veneer! I sanded through on a spot, but luckily it is behind the drawers. I hand sanded after that. My outside veneer joints weren’t great. I may have gotten the pieces flipped or rotated, or maybe it was because there was not much width on the plywood. Next time I’ll try to get wider veneer so that only two pieces are needed or just use 3 and not have the thin strips along the outer edges. The back is just wiped with MS, I’ll try to start the finishing process tonight.
  8. 1 point
    I like it. your work is worthy of the subject matter/
  9. 1 point
    Very nice, like the design and the extra features. I'm assuming thats cherry for the base. Will ash be the wood you use for the top?
  10. 1 point
    Terrific, but also prolific. What do you do when the house is full?
  11. 1 point
    looks great Drew, the proportions are spot on, i'm really liking this build and the arch top rail adds a very nice touch
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    That project from FWM is on my list also. Looks like a nice and simple project and will make nice Christmas gifts.
  14. 1 point
    I believe, had this been the original design, I would have built this instead of the low back for my daughter. Great job bud!
  15. 1 point
    I love 'em, Chet! One day, I hope to make such a nice case for my grandpa's flag.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Nice work, Ronn! Don't sweat the dovetails, most of us didn't notice, so I garantee your non-working friends will never know.
  18. 1 point
    Yes, so my next upgrade will be a 20" J/P. Kidding. KIDDING! Conventional thought is that resaw capacity should exceed need by at least 19.4 percent. No, I really think that if it becomes an issue I'll add the second DC behind the wall for the bandsaw and the drum sander. Collecting fine dust is different from collecting chips. It tends to slowly build up in the lines, much like cholesterol, blocking the flow. The last part of the statement was serious. Fine dust builds up in the lines.
  19. 1 point
    Yeah that's a good point. I'm sure it'll work I just have it stuck in my mind to minimize flex to zero preferably. I think you'll be fine, I don't know what you have for parts around or the full setup around your drum sander but i'd probably just flip that wye around and extend off of the wye at an angle toward the saw. I bet it creates boat loads of dust but it can't be any more than a planer or jointer. Though IIRC your bandsaw has more resaw capacity than your jointer/planer?
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Mick! I got in another hour or so today and made another chisel rack. This has a couple chisels, along with a bunch of miscellaneous items. As a result the holes weren't all the same size. I found an easier way to make it though. 1. Drill through holes at the correct size for the ferrule 2. Use a 22.5 degree chamfer bit to chamfer about half the height from the top. 3. Rabbet the top back about 1/4" and then use a chisel to ease the corners. I used 7/8" for the crank neck chisels, 3/4" for the burnisher and countersink, and 5/8" for the awls and little scraper. The corner chisel needed 1", and was closer to the bench chisels in size. As with the other rack, here's the zoomed in detail. I tried to hang the draw knife using some shaker pegs, but they were undersized and are too loose in the holes. I'm debating either epoxying them in or scrapping the idea and making wooden hooks held on with screws.
  21. 1 point
    Please don’t use this post as a reference or instructional post- I read one blog article and watched a few minutes of a video on Shannon Rogers site and gave it a try. I barely know what I’m doing, and that’s a generous statement. To start out, there’s no hammering! While a veneer hammer has one side that is sort of like a hammer head, the side you use it like a squeegee. You can also get one that looks more like a heavy duty squeegee (~3/8” thick plastic blade). The concept of it is really simple, and is somewhat similar to laying down laminate. You put down a layer of hide glue and the roughly place the piece. Then you can either coat the show side with another layer of hide glue, or some people spray with water. You just don’t want one side wet and the other dry, as it’ll curl up before you know it. I went with water. Then use the hammer to press the veneer down and scrape the excess glue toward the edges. As the excess glue is squeezed out, the veneer gets stuck in place. I took a couple passes on each piece, spraying with water again between. Once you’ve got the piece stuck down, its easy to scrape/wipe up the excess glue around the edges and then you can repeat with the next piece. Sorry for the goofy formatting, on my phone.
  22. 1 point
    I decided to make use of some of the crating material for use as a sturdier place to hang jigs, fixtures and blades since I had to cut it up for disposal anyway.
  23. 1 point
    Here's my thought on the leg. Only I would mount the leg in the middle. You could add a sliding brace to lock the hinge joint under the table. I'm thinking of something like a barrel bolt only bigger and wood. It could even be something held in place with rare earth magnets. Just something to keep dinner from ending abruptly.
  24. 1 point
    Quick, easy project to build a vertical lumber storage rack..
  25. 1 point
    In my opinion, yes. I doubt I’ll ever use the full 20” resale capacity of the saw, but taking ⅛” slices through a wide slab makes it go a long, long way. I’ve always been a little uneasy sanding commercial veneer, especially along edges. ⅛” you can sand like solid wood.
  26. 1 point
    I suppose it could be argued ad infinitum both ways. I stand firmly on the side that produces the most yield of what the tree has to offer. Is it a desecration of a human soul to use the skin of a deceased person to save a burn victim? A heart to save a baby born with a congenital defect? I come down on just the opposite side of that argument. Use any and every part of me you can when I'm gone. my soul will be happier as a result.
  27. 1 point
    You've seen it on lots of my projects. The kitchen doors and drawers, I bookmatched the legs of the Morris chair with it, etc. About the only way to justify the cost is to make veneer from it.
  28. 1 point
    I finally have finish on the cabinet, and it's mounted on the wall. I used Tried and True varnish oil, with 2-3 coats depending on whether it was a wear surface or not. This gave a very nice finish, close to the wood, but it brought out the figure. I did find it went much better onto the maple than the other side of the plywood, since it was less porous. I took everything up to 320 grit. These are the outer doors open - this will probably be for less used tools. It doesn't look nearly as good as the maple, but it's fine for storage. Finally, here's the inside view of the cabinet. You can see the lag screws I used to put it up - there's 6 in the cleat and 3 through the cabinet back. I just used 2 1/2" because I didn't want to go too far into the studs behind. It's very solid. Obviously I also had to remount the doors, and I've added all the screws to the hinges. I haven't made any holders yet, but I really wanted to get this part up on the wall to get my space back. I'll pick away at them over the next little while and get my stuff moved in. I am trying to figure out if I should put magnets in the door to help keep them closed, since they don't stay right now. I'm trying to figure out if I'll stick with the layout in the plans, since I realized not all my saws will fit in the space allocated for them.