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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/10/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    I absolutely love making small boxes and it had been a while since I last made one. As you guys know, boxes are awesome because you get to practice joinery and do experiments on something small scale so if you screw up a part you will only be wasting a small piece instead of something large like the entire leg of a trestle table. I'm getting close to being done on what I have titled The Up-Side Down Right-Side Up Placebo Box. (The "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part I will explain later.) The box will be used to house some essential oils which I like to tease my wife and call them placebo oils. It is beyond the scope of this journal to get into whether essential oils actually work because of the placebo effect, or if they work because of like....science or whatever. Many of them do seem to work for me, though there is a really good chance they are only working because of the placebo effect, but as long as they work I don't care why they are working. I'm not done with this box yet but here are a couple of pictures to start off with of the dry assembly with not handle on the lid. Gives you a sense of the over-all look. I was shooting for a Japanese-ish style look. I think I pulled that off. This design started off with bad drawings. I used the technique that Mike Pekovich wrote about in his book that many of you have recommended. (I recommend it also.) The one where you make lots of small drawings and do them fast with very little detail. That way you can crank out lots of different designs in a small amount of time. Doing this I quickly identified what I did and did not like. Once I had a design concept figured out I measured some placebo bottles to figure out the overall inside dimensions. This concludes the planning part of this project, I'm more of a fly by the seat of your pants kind of guy. And with that, it was time to make saw dust. Here is the board I am making this box out of. This is teak that is approximately 3/4" thick. I did not buy this board because as most of you folks know teak prices are kind of on the high side. I got this board from a local guitar maker. He had come to me because he needed a wrap done on a guitar for some event (for my day job I own a sign company so wrapping vehicles and other things is a big part of what we do) and he needed it in a hurry. Once we were done with the wrap he asked what he owed me, well if you know any guitar makers then you know all of them have a collection wood that they "will make something out of some day", so I told him that he had to pay me in wood. He gave me this piece of teak (which has some kind of oil finish on it in the picture) a smaller highly figured piece of teak and some canary wood. It pays to be friends with guitar makers. I started by just milling up the box sides. I did all this by hand except I used my planer for thicknessing. To get the ends true for the dovetails I needed to use a shooting board. Which was a problem because I don't have a shooting board. I have been meaning to make one for like a year or so, I just had not gotten around to doing it. No time like the present I guess. It went pretty well too. I was very surprised that I was able to get it square of the very first try. Have a look! There is zero light leaking through. Feels good man. Dovetail time. I'm a dirty cheater and am using the Katz-Moses jig. This is only the second time attempting dovetails and I just don't have the hours to dedicate to properly learning hand cut dovetails. So stop judging me jerks! The above is my dovetail gear. What you don't see is any chisels. That is because I don't have dovetail chisels, I know you don't NEED dovetail chisels, but I wanted some, so I made some. I posted this in another thread but for those of you who did not see that post I'm going to post it here as well. I had just read The Joiner and the Cabinet Maker (which I can't recommend enough by the way) and in that book Christopher Schwarz explains how to make dovetail chisels. According to Schwarz you can just get some cheap chisels and file the side bevels to a point. Schwarz also says that you can use a grinder or a belt sander instead of a file as long as you don't let the metal get so hot it looses it's temper. So, equipped with some extremely high quality Harbor Freight chisels I got to grinding with a belt sander. The chisel on the left is the before and the two on the right are the after. Took me maybe 10 minutes tops. Honing and sharpening took longer. They are not pretty, not by a long shot. But they work like a charm! It was hot that day by the way. I had a swamp cooler running in my garage that is why the humidity is so high. Yes, here in Arizona, 30% humidity is high. The coping saw (or maybe that is a fret saw, I always get the two confused) was from Harbor Freight as well. I assumed that it would be worthless and frustrating, but the thing cut like a champ. This teak is extremely easy to work this so I don't know how the saw would have performed in something less forgiving like oak, but I am happy with how well it did. Dry fit of the sides. I did not plan to make these proud dovetails, I wanted the dovetails to be just a tiny bit proud so that I could just plane them flush. I added 1/16" which was way too much. But I love it. So I'm keeping it. With the sides of the box done it's time to make the bottom and the top. These are pretty simple in that both of them are just rectangles with a bevel, but I was having trouble wrapping my head around how to do the bevel. Then I remembered something I heard in a Youtube video at some point. I can't remember who said it (I think it was either the Highland Woodworker or maybe William Ng) but it has stuck with me for years. I'm not going to quote it but it was something to the effect of: If you break woodworking down to it's simplest form, woodworking is just marking a line, and cutting to the line. No matter if you are using a chisel or a table saw or sand paper or a plane, you are just marking a line, and cutting to the line. So that's what I did. I marked the line.... And started cutting. At first I was using just a block plane but that was pretty slow so I switched to the scrub plane and things started really moving fast. I would get close with the scrub plane.... Then finished off with the block plane. Not only did this work very well, it was pretty fun too. It went surprisingly fast. The scrub plane even worked really well on the end grain. Sides, top and bottom are done, all that is left is the internals and the lid handle. I used some of my kids construction paper to mock up some lid handles and finally landed on this one: This is where the "Up-Side Down Right-Side Up" part of the name come in. At some point while figuring out the lid hand I had set the box down up-side down. I stared at this up-side down box for a really really long time. I was stuck, I had no idea which look I preferred. I like both looks so much. In the end I decided to keep this thing the original way I had designed it. I figured that since this was such a simple build it would be no problem for me to build an up-side down version in the future. Dowels were used to attache the lid. We are pretty much caught up to the present. All that's left is to put finish on. My finishing schedule is two coats of boiled linseed oil followed by Danish Oil and finished off with paste wax. I have used this finish before and it is by far my favorite. The only down side is that it takes a really long time. Even in the desert heat I have to wait multiple days between coats. After the finish is all cured and done I'll get some glamour photos and report back. Thanks for sticking with me.
  2. 4 points
    I don't spend a lot of time on bigger more complicated projects without drawings, templates or a lot of beer.If its complicated and time consuming a little more time for templates, drawing will save time later....
  3. 3 points
    I'll confess that I didn't read 100% of the posts above but probably enough to get the flow. I built a CNC router about 3 years ago and may have posted the build here (I don't recall, sorry). The main thing I cut with it is Longworth chucks that we sell on Etsy (we've cut almost 200 of them in the last 18 months). But the CNC is just another tool in the shop to me; I turn it on, cut something, turn it off and move on to the next step. What's nice about it is the repeatability and accuracy. If I can cut something on the bandsaw faster than using Fusion 360 for CAD/CAM and then cutting a piece on the CNC then the bandsaw gets used. But if that same part is one that I'll need a dozen more of over the next month then the CNC gets the job - it just depends but in the end it's just another tool in the shop. We don't (yet) have a 3D printer but I have looked at several. A good friend has two 3D printers so I don't need one right now because he'll print anything I need. The acoustic guitar, and related forms/fixtures/jigs I built last year, could have been helped by the CNC but I only used it for a small portion of cutting the bridge. The rest was completely by hand and I do a lot of hand work on a fair number of jobs/projects every week. And actually, the reason I built the CNC is to cut forms, fixtures, jigs, and templates for building acoustic guitars but I have yet to do any of that with the CNC. When I started woodworking about 45 years ago I used a handsaw. When I got a circular saw the handsaw gathered dust unless the circular saw couldn't do the job. When I got a table saw the circular saw got put away. But it is still used to break down Baltic Birch sheets for the Longworth chucks because it's the best tool for that task in our shop (no room to handle a 5x5 sheet on the table saw). Cuts that I would have done on the bandsaw a few years ago might today go to the CNC. They're all just tools and I use what makes sense for the job because I have them and they each handle the job for which they were designed. My $0.02 David
  4. 3 points
    So i still have that idea itching in the back of my mind for the last table. I really want to make it delicate looking and nail the process. So I ran another test and think i got every thing figured out. First the test so you can see what I didn't like but also what I liked. The center "post" was just WAY to beefy. Further on I went too thin and have since decided the perfect thickness is 3/8". This also showed me that trying to perfectly measure and mark out the kerf width of the band saw blade is an exercise in futility. I determined that it's MUCH easier to make the cuts and measure as i go along. The problem i had with this test is the main bending pieces are not the same thickness and as a result bend slightly different. It's not that noticeable in the picture but the tops toe in towards the center a bit. Starting out my final test piece is going to mimic the size the real piece will be. I calculated that I'll need a 1_1/2" wide piece, 14_1/2" long, and preferably 1/2" thick. The piece below is 1_3/8" and that leaves the center piece a bit thin to my liking. I'm showing this to illustrate how LITTLE wood this takes. Which is sort of dumbfounding to me. I marked center and offset the center 1/8". I marked up 1" from each end and and that represents the line to stop cutting. This is important because uneven stopping points will result in a poor look. I was only marking one side of the board. I used the marks to set the fence and then flip the board over to cut the opposite side. This kept things symetrical and worked a bit faster. It's also critical to work from the center out. Working from the out side towards the center means that you have kerf cuts in your board pressing the board against the fence will close the kerf cuts causing a taper and a cut that isn't parallel. I used white lines to illustrate where the 2 cuts will be. You make the first cut and then flip the board side to side so the same end is getting cut. Or at least for my design i want it this way. Playing with the orientation of the cuts can give different designs and different effects. If you try this experiment it's kind of fun to try out. Below you can see my first 2 cuts. Now we will focus on the end closes to us in the picture above. I measured over from the outside edge of the kerf the thickness i want my bent "slats" to be. For this i chose 1/8". I've found thicker than this doesn't bend very nicely and thinner is too fragile (in my very limited testing). The key for the next cut is to make sure to align the OUTSIDE of the band saw blade with your mark. If you center or use the inside of the blade it will remove material from your slat making it too thin. (I guess it doesn't matter what side of the line you choose as long as you always choose the same side of the line from here on out). The white line above is a bit thick but it shows the idea. Here I'm taking the line as the right side of the white line was my keep side (I used a pencil line to set the fence and added the white line latter for illustration). Make the first cut flip side to side so the end you are first cutting stays the same. Stop at your marked stop line. For the next cuts, which happen to be my final cuts, I measured again from the outside edge of the kerf cut on the opposite end of the board. I measured over 1/8" and extended the line to the end. I then used that line to set my band saw fence. I really should have set my fence to the low position. Next time I'll remember that, well probably not. As you can see the wood is loosing a lot of it's stability accross the face. This is exactly what we want but also illustrates how important it is to work from the inside out. After the cuts are done you have a small piece that looks like some one really messed up on. I'm working on the rail design. Right now I'm leaning to cutting a groove in the top of the bottom rail and the bottom of the top rail. I'll set the side in the groove and glue in spaces that will hold the position of the side in the design that i choose. There is a LOT of flexibility with this. Right now I'm going for something symmetrical but will experiment more in the future. With spaces installed. The small spacers are 1" and the larger spacers are 2 of the smaller spacers so 2". When it comes to actually placing the side the top spacers will need to be a hair longer than 1" as the top has 4 kerf cuts and the bottom has 2 so the top will need to make up that additional material lost. I then had the idea to cut the center piece out because i thought it might look better. Ignore the rough bottom, If i did this method I'd make it just a thin kerf cut instead of a wide one. I don't think this will be my end product. If i widen the center divider by 1/8" it will help separate the 2 sides and will look like 2 arches. Ideally if i was doing a wider table I'd have 3 arches as i prefer sets of 3 but this table is going to be far to narrow to pull that off. What do you think? Pointer, if your band saw has a brake stop the blade before pulling the piece out of the incomplete cut. The sides of the band saw blade can cut the wood a little bit leaving a rougher side and a more jagged looking slat. If you don't have a brake this process might take longer as I advise to let the blade stop. So Mel if you read this proof that a band saw brake has value . I was going to post some pointers for making something like this at the end but I'm tired and forgot what I was going to post. Also my fingers are tired.... this was a lot of typing. Also too long to proofread, I'll probably fill in my pointers tomorrow when i proofread.
  5. 2 points
    Maybe I'm just ham-handed but, it seems like half the time when I dump the rail connectors out of the little storage tube I drop the wrench. Makita did a good job of providing a storage spot for the blade wrench in the handle of the saw. I'm sure someone thought of this or something like it before but, a piece of tubing and the unused side of that handle-hole make a stash spot for the rail connector wrench. Your mileage may differ but, the tubing I had that fit snugly on the wrench was just a bit small to fit snug in the hole. I just snipped a section out to create a flap to fill the gap. The end of the tube in my hand is out of focus but, you can sort of see the internal shape. This happens to be oxygen hose from the last time someone was in the hospital. Apparently I scrounge all sorts of . . . stuff from wherever I happen to be. It goes in and out without coming loose from the tubing and stays put while I'm working. Now I can setup and tear-down without fumbling the wrench half the time.
  6. 2 points
    You did post, it's been posts like yours on here and Frank Howarth that have turned me from thinking that CNC is complete hog wash to considering it an awesome tool. For items that require precision and accuracy they can't be beat. Kind of deviceive just like the Domino...
  7. 2 points
    You know, MCM is getting long of tooth. Might as well start calling it MCML so folks know which century its from the middle of!
  8. 1 point
    I have a few living room tables to make. Most of them are going to be my typical style that runs with the theme of the room but there is going to be one oddball that will be fun to make and i want to try something new. The first table on the list is the easiest. I just need to copy an end table i made a few years back. The main goal was to use up some reclaimed cherry from a bedroom door someone gave me. It was a solid cherry door that they cut some pieces off of so it was no longer usable as a door. Not bad for a reclamied wood project eh? First step was to make the MDF fence for my miter gauge that i've been meaning to make for a while now. After that was done it was as simple as cutting parts to get kinda close to the same size as the other table. I used the domino for the joinery. and also to attach the side slats on. It's the same techniquie I did for the last one. Used the drum sander to sand the slats to fit perfectly in a 6mm mortise. I used the table saw to establish the shoulder on 2 sides and cut the rest back until they fit. Next was to get everything finish prepped. #4 to the rescue! Marc mad a post on social media about rounding corners with a sander. I've never had that problem with a handplane and it's a ton faster to get perfect finish ready. I don't sand much any more after my smoother because it honestly makes the surface look worse. After finish prep it was a pretty painless assembly. Then it was on to making the top. The previous table has an ash top that came from scraps from a build i did a LONG time ago. Luckily i always planned on making 2 and kept the scraps. I ran it through the drum sander after it was glued up to even everything out. Because the grain is kinda crazy and i get a lot of tear out on this wood I took off the drum sander grit marks with a card scraper. Took me maybe 10 min to go from 80 grit to finish ready. Total time was about 10 hours. Just need to apply finish.
  9. 1 point
    (Documented here if only to create a thread that will be resurrected once this is dry.) A friend lost a redbud tree in his backyard. I had a clear morning so I gave him a hand chopping it to bits and feeding it into the chipper. Like most ornamentals, the trunk was a gnarled, twisted mess and useless for flat stock. So, I indulged myself with shorter lengths for bowl blanks. Got them home, gave them a hard look, and figured that only one was even worth getting up onto the lathe for a rough turning. The others had bark inclusions that looked likely to blow apart at speed. Some day, I'll make a proper circle cutting jig. For now, I nip the corners to produce an octagon. This is enough to start working on making chips. Sopping wet, the heartwood has a yellowey greeney color to it. Kind of like poplar, but with a lot more variety. Swirls, streaks, etc. The rim has a rot pocket (lower right in this photo) that I expect will be turned away once dry. The bark inclusions will probably need to be stabilized, but that's a next year problem. Fun tip: Typically after crosscutting, one runs a chainsaw right down the middle of a log to produce two halves, each of which becomes a bowl blank. In this case, I knew that only one side of the log was worth keeping. So I left a bit of pith on the keeper side. As the blank dries, the sides pull in, leaving a hump at what was the center of the tree. That always gets turned away, so one may as well leave a bit of pith and conserve some height for the blank. The blank finished out at about 12" diameter and 5" high. I took the remaining chunks and bandsawed them for flat stock. Maybe I'll be able to use those for a segmented rim. With that, it all gets a slobbering of paint. Labelled and put aside to await what it will become.
  10. 1 point
    In the event that you do not have enough [or any] of these, the same sort of clamping action may be accomplished with a wooden wedge or two.................Rick
  11. 1 point
    here is a few...i have to have at least 12' each way...
  12. 1 point
    I just glue them together. I only use dowels or dominos when it’s large.
  13. 1 point
    3 votes for keeping the center piece.
  14. 1 point
    Are they disposable or can they take a hone or 2?
  15. 1 point
    From my experience (A3/31 owner) I just get them through Hammer web site they ship from out east and are like $39 a set plus shipping. I'm sure you know this but these blades can be flipped.
  16. 1 point
    Try here - it should have what you need. https://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/pop-goes-the-maple/
  17. 1 point
    x2 I'm with mark on this
  18. 1 point
    It looks better to me with the center piece than without it.
  19. 1 point
    I think it was on this forum, but I followed your build & it was a real quality project.
  20. 1 point
    Ok, I admit it I had to look it up: MCML = 1950.
  21. 1 point
    I could see owning a small CNC if I was really into building styles like Queen Anne furniture. I like building furniture but don't really like carving so having a CNC do do things like the shells and other appointments on those designs.
  22. 1 point
    I know little about hooch & less about distilling, but I've read that getting the last bit of water out is quite difficult & they have to resort to some pretty exotic methods. Just distilling won't do it.
  23. 1 point
    Highly likely. I got it in a batch of wood i bought when i was looking for good shelving. The guy had a lot of various exotics and this was defiantly one of them. I have a good guess but i want to see if someone else comes to the same conclusion that I do with out steering them. (I should make a "What wood is this" post but it's not that important)
  24. 1 point
    CNC, 3D printing. Nothing evil about them. Everybody is free to decide for themselves whether to and how to use them. I don't understand why some people get in such an uproar about it. There's no need to defend the decision to others. Personally, I just don't think I'd get the satisfaction out of CNC & printed work that I do out of just using tools to work wood. One thing that really turns me off of 3D printing is how ugly the finished object looks. Even ones that are well done have that weird 'made of glued together noodles' look to some extent. That doesn't matter for utility stuff, but if you want to make something nice...
  25. 1 point
    I fall into the category of those that think spalted or figured woods are best used sparingly. Accent pieces or small decorative objects look great, large areas look 'meh'.
  26. 1 point
    I'm going to split these into 2 posts. I finished Table #3 as referenced in post #26. This table is designed to stand over the subwoofer for the sound system. Yeah it's not going to be the best for sound but w/e this isn't a home theater like we're all watching over in the off topic section. The table legs are made from a lamination of 3 pieces of cherry. I have a bunch of thin stuff that I've been using various places because i got it cheap (<$1). So the legs don't look the greatest up close but the table is going to be stuffed in the corner with the couch pushed up against it so all any one will ever see is the front apron front of the front legs and the top. I dug out some knoty not so good looking pieces for the side and rear apron as those are never going to be seen either. If the room ever gets rearranged this table is getting changed. I'll keep the top but recycle the rest of it. Materials wise i maybe have $10 into it and largest part of that is glue and finish. I made the top from some unknown wood. Endgrain shot below. This is maybe 1/4" x 1/4" so as you can see the grain is dense. Wood has hardness similar to cherry as i can barley dent it with my fingernail. It's weight is more in line with a hard maple or white oak. The wood is most defiantly NOT cherry. It does not have the same medulary ray effect on the quarter sawn faces that cherry does. The top was too wide for the thickness planer so i ran it through the drum sander with plenty of capacity left over. Instead of spending 2 hours sanding from 80 grit to 180 grit. I took 15 min and used a card scraper to take off the 80 grit sanding marks. I used my portable festool light to track my progress. It may be hard to see in the picture but in person it made it REALLY easy to make sure that i didn't miss anything. After i scrapped everything i sanded with 180 grit to even out and marks left behind from the scraper. I don't like finishing a scraped surface it doesn't come out as nice as a smoothing plane. This is a picture of the finished piece you can see that the color of the unknown wood is similar to that of cherry but not a dead ringer. And a picture of the table that hides the ugly legs.
  27. 1 point
    I actually think the BCTW Kerfmaker is a pretty good bargain. By the time I fart around trying to make one myself that will work as well, I will have burned up many times that in my labor.
  28. 1 point
    I know this isn't going to be a mainstream opinion, but I don't like spalted wood. Not that fond of ambrosia, either. The good news is I won't be buying any so that will keep the price down for other folks.
  29. 1 point
    I think the center divider will look a lot better with drawers in place. The shelves are a bit different as they won't have something like a drawer front right next to them.
  30. 1 point
    Gary welcome to the forum! No disrespect but I for one hope this slap craze ends soon and we can get back to regular milled lumber for wood working projects.
  31. 1 point
    Sorry moderators. I couldn't resisit.
  32. 1 point
    So, instead of a bowl, you have a dugout canoe. Still a success! So, instead of a bowl, you have a dugout canoe. Still a success!
  33. 1 point
    Well, that went well. Ah, the carnage. I doubt that even Frank Howarth could salvage this thing.