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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/30/19 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    That may be so, no argument there. But I think the blame still lies squarely on the shoulders of PM management. They are the ones accepting the substandard quality. Taiwan & China are fully capable of manufacturing some excellent equipment. It's the companies paying them to make stuff that call the quality shots.
  2. 3 points
    Update.. New saw shipped today.
  3. 2 points
    I use two router guides on all my mortising operations with the router. I have a Festool router now but I did it with my Bosch before I had the Festool. It also provides better stability on narrower work pieces. I picked up the idea from @..Kev
  4. 2 points
    When they shipped off the work to Taiwan, the quality control really went in the toilet for all these machines. It's obvious they did this to cut labor costs but, is that to keep our cost down or improve their profits? I don't honestly know but, when in doubt, I usually follow the money.
  5. 2 points
    X2 regarding rust issues but probably not a bad idea none the less. That's what I did 20 minutes of work and now they match my bench
  6. 2 points
    I got the BC leg vise hardware in the mail today. Everything installed nicely so their dimensions were spot on. I took the steel plates that the criss cross mounts on and cleaned them with alcohol and then coated them in 3 coats of shellac to hopefully prevent them from rusting. I'll probably occasionally still hit them with wax though. I unboxed the rest of the hardware to find the silly knobs they included. I promptly tossed them in their permanent storage receptacle. I'd have much rather taken a discount on the vise ........ instead i'll blast this on social media at BC in pure Midwest passive aggressive style.
  7. 2 points
    So Grizzly is now selling a portable saw mill.
  8. 1 point
    Knocking out a entry table for my bride.
  9. 1 point
    I guess you can't set the guide on the wrong side using that method
  10. 1 point
    My grandparents lived in Kalispell for many years. We used to drive up the east side of Flathead and get cherries on the way. I have an aunt and uncle in West Glacier too I’m a native, one of the few, the proud
  11. 1 point
    So what I'm hearing you say is that the part you identified is fractured. So that has to be replaced no matter how you pwer the lathe, otherwise the whole lathe is going to be unbalanced. If you could put a VFD on the lathe that would give you a much speed range.
  12. 1 point
    I can see the broken part is off the indexing part of the pulley, you will probably never miss it. If an indexing system is needed you can mount an external index on it.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I asked, mainly because construction lumber tends to warp, because it's rarely fully dried, Stain and a finish, might be a workable plan, but there are places where you'll have a hard time being sure you've sealed the wood. Paint tends to cover those areas a little better. I like the design, but construction lumber will give you problems over time.
  17. 1 point
    I agree. Put a 3phase motor and VFD on it and go to town. That's a great lathe.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    The Village is OK with it if the contractor is, but I will have to catch them at it. Public works says it's probably a Norway maple. Wood Database says its intermediate hardness for maples and (surprise to me) it's the sap wood that's most valued. I'm going to keep an eye out for the crew. Depending on the trunk condition and the color change from heart to sap I may go for it. Maybe I can use this as an excuse to get a chain saw.
  20. 1 point
    I don't own either but I think you're really talking about very different pieces of equipment. Were it up to me, and money were no object, I would go the Incra route. The Wixey devices I currently own are fine, although a few drops on a concrete floor haven't helped. Of course if money were no object and I were looking at making repeatable cuts on the tablesaw I would also consider a big sliding TS. I understand this isn't the question, though, so I digress. I haven't met anyone who owns the Incra fence and doesn't absolutely love it (I am sure it's not a universally-adored product but there are a lot of vocally positive people online). The beauty of the Incra product to me is the adjustability and repeatability of cuts, at least as it's been demonstrated to me. That said, it is a lot of coin. What's your use case? Nearly any fence that can be set reliably square to the blade could be set up with a high degree of repeatability using templates for production cuts etc. Since you're asking about pieces of equipment separated in price by nearly a factor of ten it would be helpful to know what kind of work you do/plan to do.
  21. 1 point
    I had a little bit of time between operations on the bench so i decided to get to work on routing templates. I don't want to do much template routing but on duplicating multiple chairs there really isn't any way around it. I have the paper templates mounted to 1/4" ply and shaped everything back to the lines. My idea was to make some routing sleds with toggle clamps that would allow routing of parts and easy swapping with out having to utilize double stick tape. To make the routing sleds i am going to attach blocks to a piece of 3/4" plywood. The block will act as a reference for the work piece, a fence of sorts, and it will also hold the toggle clamp that will hold the work piece in place. In the picture below I'm using the template to set the block locations. To attach the blocks I used CA and activator and to provide a more secure connection included some wood glue. After everything has taken some time to try I'm going to reinforce the blocks with a couple screws to make sure that they don't break loose during a routing operation. After the blocks are placed the sled was taken to the band saw to be roughly cut to shape. After the sled is rough cut I'll take it to the router table and route the edge to the 1/4" template. This particular sled is for the rear chair legs. As mentioned above both sides of the legs will end up being template routed. So after this side of the sled is shaped I'll attach the template to the other side of the sled and shape that edge to the template. This will be more clear when i work the first piece. Remaining are the rails that connect the chair legs together. These were attached to the cutoff piece of plywood with a fence glued behind. All of the rails will have 1 strait square reference edge so they will only be routed on one side. The backrest panel is going to be difficult, I'm still not entirely sure how I'm going to manage it. I'll figure it out hopefully there isn't too much trial and error necessary.
  22. 1 point
    Another quick update. I plan on fishing this week and weekend so I likely won't get back to this for a few days and I wanted to tidy this post up by reviewing what I did the past 2 days. Now that the front legs are set I've moved to the back legs. After cutting them out on the bandsaw and flush trimming them using the back leg pattern it's on to a few other procedures before we cut the joints. First thing is to remove stock off the inside portion of the legs. We remove stock below the headrest area and leave the headrest and the seat joint area at full thickness. We aim for 1 1/4" thickness in these reduction areas and 1 1/2" at the arm joint area. Here's what that reduction looks like; An adder block needs to be added to the inside surface of the leg at the seat joint area. This adder block should measure 3 x 5 x 3/4".Here the adder block is added and I am squaring and truing up this surface to the outside of the leg; Once that is completed we need to cut a 6 degree angle into this adder block to get the classic Maloof Rocker look. Here I've marked out the orientation for this cut, this is a huge exaggeration in the angle, the real angle cut here will not be as harsh; I'll be using a jig that is set at 6 degrees to make this cut, but I won't be doing that cut in this post, that will be done next post. A note about the adder block, try to get the block out of the same board the leg is cut from, will help with grain and color matching. While the glueup of the adder block was drying I took the opportunity to knock out some other prep cuts. Doing these prep cuts during glueups really helps speed things along. When you follow Marc on his video he tackles each step and part individually. The key is knowing what you are safe to jump ahead with. Cutting the laminate strips for the rockers is definitely one area you can jump ahead with. Here are 20 strips, bundled in matching sets as they came off the bandsaw; I still have a little prep to do with these strips but once that's done I'll glueup the rockers. It's also smart to glueup the rockers early, esp since I only have one form. Doing these early are big time savers. Another area it is safe to jump ahead with is the spindles. Shaping these spindles is by far the most time consuming and arduous task of this project. Here they are before bandsawing; After bandsawing I put them side by side and clamp together. Notice the irregularities; The next step is not necessary but I think it makes for a little more consistent outcome. While clamped together I use the RAS and the sanders to even up the contours; Flip over and don't remove clamps. Blend this other side like the first; We then use the other spindle pattern to develop the correct side contours; Using this pattern is not the easiest and since I like my spindles slightly more narrow I get the first spindle cut and the shape refined at the spindle sander and I use this first spindle to draw my cut lines on the other spindles. Another big time saver; It's alittle hard to see the lines but here are the other spindles marked up and ready for the bandsaw; One last mark for these spindles is to mark the midline front and back. This serves as a guide when shaping begins. I'll cut and shape these spindles gradually throughout the project now that I have them prepped. I will wait until the spindle holes in the seat are drilled before I start shaping though. The upper part of the spindles will be refined and shaped after the headrest is fitted. You need to cut some excess off the top of these spindle at this step so reduction and shaping of this area will be held off until then. My next goals will be to get the back legs jointed and fitted to the seat. Once I have that done I can begin with the arms. Time spent on these procedures; 2.5 hrs, total is now 11 hrs.
  23. 1 point
    I am assuming that this new saw WILL give me crap a year down the road as I really don't have any faith in the saw or the brand. It's possible they send another new saw. It's also possible that they refund. Time will tell. Regardless, by that time, I'll have (I hope) a larger following on YT and IG which means a larger base to see all the negative reviews and posts. Ultimately, it was that pressure that finally got them and ACME to step up on this saw.
  24. 1 point
    I've got the 1023 with the router extension, though I've never set it up for a router. It came with the blade, slot and fence well within tolerance, and I've never had a problem getting it to go through 9/4 wood that I get from Spanky. The best move I made from an old Craftsmen. Though the Craftsmen, built some fine furniture.
  25. 1 point
    Oysters are good for one thing and lead will stunt your growth so you’re back where you started right?