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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Sorry to sound like a broken record. I do not have wood allergies. I’m just a regular person. I was not diligent enough on dust control early on. I now take medication every day and will for the rest of my life. We can’t all do a perfect job of collecting spoil. I do always recommend that you do the best that you can in the room you have and with the budget you have. I also start all responses to the question of “what tools should I get first?” with number one being dust collection. I am not some kind of dust collection wacko that thinks anybody who doesn’t do a perfect job with their dust collection system is doomed to a horrible death. Let’s just use common sense and do the best we can :-)
  2. 5 points
    I have a set of the Paolini Rules that just never made it into my workflow. I'm paying it forward by giving them away and paying for shipping. US entries only.. Directions for entry in the video.. For the record, these are mine. I paid for them and am giving them away.
  3. 4 points
    So I'm running a bit late for something of this size, but here goes nothing. My mom informed me that a great Christmas gift for my sister would be a new dining table. My sister's kitchen is very small and is dominated by a 78" x 44" monster dining table that they were able to get for free. My sister apparently has wanted to ask me to make something for a long while but reportedly was always too sheepish to ask. The table area in their kitchen is around 9' x 6' but also includes the main walkway from their primary exterior door and the rest of the house. So my mom did the leg work got me to agree to the table and helped my sister get dimensions. The big thing wanted is a table around the size of 48" x 32". This should be a good sized table for the family of 4. The above is my idea that she thought looked nice. So I'm going to move forward with this plan. I haven't decided If I'm goign to do half laps or bridle joints for the legs or just do regular M&T.
  4. 3 points
    I just turn off my hearing aids.
  5. 3 points
    I would lean more toward A, I think it would be easier construction wise. Another thought, could you just glue up the the perimeter for your bevel and to give it the appearance of a thicker table leaving the middle of the table 3/4 inch thick?
  6. 3 points
    OK. I have decided not to get a SCMS. I have a non-sliding saw, and I think I'll stick with that. That leaves more money for a router, jointer, and planer!
  7. 3 points
    Sorry for the delay. Been one of those days... Here's the link to the video I shot this morning about adjusting the Boggs spokeshave.
  8. 2 points
    So I just re-discovered this thread and have learned a bit this since I started it. I have done some experiementing. Because of the high gloss of a frech poslished. You have to sand a lot more on each grit on figured wood and burls including veneers than you do on woods with a directional grain to avoid scratches showing up. Testing with mineral spirits or raking light as you sand is not good enough. Some times scratches will not show up until the polishing process reaches a certain level of sheen and then, poop, that scratch shows up. Here is a experiment for use on burl. Sand first grit with Ros, 2nd by hand north-south, 3rd by hand E-W. 4th diagonally, 5th diagonally the on other way. Then do the french polish. if scratches show up you will know at what step or steps in the sanding process you did not sand enough.
  9. 1 point
    I don’t think a a table as small as you are looking at, 4’ x approx 3’, will have a problem with 3/4” stock, esp if you “framed” it with another layer. I was thinking you could put the extra thickness far enough under the table to attach the apron. So let’s say you frame the bottom with 4” of extra stock and at the end grain I would not put the 4” piece across the grain, I would use a series of 4” long pieces that would match the grain direction of the top. Also you could glue extra thickness where the bottom supports attach. I guess my suggestion would be more in line with expensive stock. Nevertheless, gluing up two boards for the whole top would also work well, but that’s a lot of gluing and I would think more work than if you just did the frame idea. I’m assuming you be needing to glue up two boards or maybe three for the legs, correct? i do like the design.
  10. 1 point
    Yes but in A they are all lined up on the same plane, B they are staggered, thats all I was thinking.
  11. 1 point
    I have a kitchen worktop 60mm thick made of 2 layers of 30mm timber. This is a bought-in item, not something I made myself. It is glued up like your option A. There have been no problems with it. If I were doing it myself though I would probably go for option B, for no very good reason.
  12. 1 point
    And another bonus is that I was able to build the room in the basement next to the garage/shop. It houses the DC & compressor so I get more space & a quieter shop. The reason I went a little overboard with the soundproofing is that I didn't want the noise getting into the living space. My wife was well & truly impressed
  13. 1 point
    Thanks Mick, I appreciate you taking the time to do the video.
  14. 1 point
    I don't know your location but, here in the SoCal desert basin I generously pad on the mixture, wait 20 to 30 minutes and then wipe it off as if I've changed my mind. I apply the next coat right away. Over the years my method has morphed a bit. I use mineral spirits, BLO and a gloss modified phenolic resin (poly). I use a straight sided jar and a stick of scrap. I mark the stick in the increments I want. I can then pour each ingredient till the level reaches the mark. And I use the stick to stir with. My first coat is something like 2:1:1 to act as an initial sealer. The next few coats are 1:1:1 with the last coat(s) being 1:1:2. That is, heavy on the thinner at first and heavy on the poly at the end. The hand application gives me a satin-like finish from the gloss top coat.
  15. 1 point
    That pith has gotta go. It's just gonna keep moving & cracking. Cut it out & glue it back together. that looks like a pretty straight grained slab, & the glue line will be barely noticeable, if at all. I know you're stuck on the idea of having this huge single piece table top, but in reality you'll end up with something that's ugly & a constant maintenance headache with the continued cracking & cupping. This is exactly the truth.
  16. 1 point
    Like most here, I've been on both sides. No DC at all for many years. I wore a mask for the worst tasks, like working MDF and sanding, but otherwise just rode bareback. But even when not actually doing any cutting or sanding there was always fine dust being stirred up because there was a layer of it everywhere. But after banging my head against that wall for so long, I finally learned to stop and put in a 5 HP cyclone with HEPA filtration in a soundproof room with 8" mains & 4" - 6" drops. Honestly, it's like waking up in paradise. Clean shop, clean air, clean surfaces. Of course there are still tasks where a properly fitted HEPA (no paper masks) respirator is needed, but even then it's so much nicer to work with the reduced level of ambient dust. You do not need to spend crazy cash though to get 'good enough' results, I just get carried away with things sometimes. If I was to start all over with a new shop, DC would be installed right along with the wiring & lighting.
  17. 1 point
    You did not buy a bunk slab, you bought a slab with the pith through the middle, you have only one solution, cut the pith out. Any other attempt to prevent cupping will not work. As for the white spots it’s hard to tell but I’m betting the inside of that slab is a lot wetter than you realize, definitely wetter than your outside readings. One positive, once you cut out the pith you’ll have two nice quarter sawn pieces.
  18. 1 point
    Lol. I can spend the whole day in the shop avoiding a nerve racking step like this. It usually gets ends up getting done by the fact that it has to be done to move on with the project. These steps are magnified by the fact that they are usually toward the end were mistakes are more costly.
  19. 1 point
    So I have the whole thing just about assembled. This post I'll cover glue up of headrest, fitting the chair to the rockers, drilling the dowel holes in the rockers, final shaping of the headrest. Once I shaped the top of the spindles I then sanded all the spindles to 400 grit. This is very time consuming and is mainly hand sanding. Once I sanded the spindles I put them and the headrest on the chair and screwed the headrest in place. this is always an exciting milestone in this build. This is the first time I get to actually sit in the chair. @Chet was wondering if the lessening of the curve in the headrest was going to affect the comfort of the chair, and I was curious too. Well it passed the "sit test". Felt as comfortable as all the others I've built. So I think this is a great option for someone who wants to modify this build to 8/4 stock. I may make a pattern for this so I have it on hand for future builds. Here's the chair assembled but not yet glued; And a side view; Now since I had the top of the rocker assembled I thought this is a good time to get the chair up on the rockers, balance the rockers and get the legs to fit the rockers; Here are the leg to rocker discrepancies; You can see I scribed some lines for reduction, reduction done by the RAS, rasps, and Morrison's sandpaper trick; After some finessing we are good. Morrison's sandpaper trick is posted on Marc's build, it's worth looking at. Now using a dowel center I mark where I need to drill my hole for the front dowel, this is drilled freehand; Once the front dowels are in place you go to the hairest part of this build, you drill the holes for the back legs. I was so stressed doing this I totally forgot to take pictures. Marc shows it well on the build, but it basically is a 3.5" long hole you drill through the bottom of the rockers into the back leg. The angle you drill is tricky since the legs splay and the rockers are on a radius. I mark the midline of the underside of the rocker, eyeball my angle, take a shot of scotch and then drill. These came out nice, just about in the center of the top side of the rocker and into the meat of the back legs; So those are BIG steps to finish, the rockers now need some shaping and sanding before gluing them to the chair. Next I want to do the glue up of the headrest. Before doing that I I took the time to wet down the spindles to raise the grain on them. Since I'm using a water based dye, and these will be hard to sand once glued up, I'm trying to think a step ahead. Spindles were resanded to 400 and then I did my glue up. An important trick I've learned for this glue up is to use a clamp to "separate" the back legs. I do this because with glue on both gluing surfaces of the headrest joint, when you try to position the headrest into the proper place you can get a gluey mess. Here's how I separate the back legs prior to gluing; Just a little pressure does the trick and creates enough separation so you can position everything without having glue get wiped off the joint surfaces and all over the chair. Glue is put in the seat spindle holes, spindles get placed, glue in holes on the headrest, headrest goes on spindles, glue then goes on the chair and the headrest at the joint area, headrest is moved into position and screws are started on both sides to hold the headrest in position, the the separating clamp is removed. Now you have everything positioned correctly and you can now screw and clamp the headrest in position. Epoxy used here mainly for working time and I also did't want the spindles to swell and make seating them harder; While that glue up is curing I do some bandsaw reduction to start with the shaping of the rockers; I like to clamp the rockers together and harmonize the front shape; And here are my guidelines for rounding the rockers, one side has been rounded with the rasps and the other side is marked up; Once glue in the headrest area is cured you have some delicate contouring and shaping to do. Front side of headrest before blending; These areas are pretty easy, can handle with small sander and interface pad followed by hand sanding. Sorry, forgot the post sanding pic. Here's the backside, a harder area for access and blending up into horn. Thought I'd show a series of pics as I work through the process; Still quite a bit of shaping and sanding left but the end is getting near! Time spent; Sanding spindles; 1 hr Fitting spindles and tryin of headrest; .5 hr Fitting rockers; 1.25 hr Drilling dowel holes for rockers; .5 hr Wetting and resanding spindles; .75 hr Headrest glueup; .5 hr Blending and shaping headrest; 2 hr Total to date; 54 hrs
  20. 1 point
    The factor that causes movement is the difference in expansion or shrinkage between the radial direction inside the board and the tangential. Radial is the change in diameter of the log and tangential is the change along the growth rings. This is often expressed as a ratio. The closer to 1 of the ratio the more stable the wood is going to be. Also the lower the percentage of shrinkage in either direction the more stable the wood will be and the less it will change size. If the ratio is 1 and the percentage is 15% it'll move a lot but would in theory be stable. Wood is natural and theory goes out the window so don't count on that. Some common hardwoods are screen shot below from wood database. Cherry and Oak are on the more unstable size with TRs of 1.9 & 2.2 Walnut is quite stable as is Mahogany. Despite walnut having a low TR it's higher shrinkage tend to give it a worse reputation as far as stability is concerned when compared to Mahogany. Mahogany is well known for being a very stable wood. Below are the SPF softwoods with WRC included for comparison. In conclusion it's not clearly cut and dry this is also a small sample but on average softwoods have lower shrinkage numbers and better TR ratios. Like everything that depends on the species and most importantly how the log is sawn. From my under standing spruce is more common in smaller boards like 2x4s and it's specs reflect the reality that those boards move a lot more. Fir is more stable and has better properties all around which is why it's more common in larger lumber. This is all regional dependent. SE everything is likely to be SYP west coast is likely to be fir. This is all information learned from listening/reading Shannon Rodgers. Lumber Industry Update has a lot of good information on all things wood though it's from a single person with their bias in it so i can't say that i have multiple sources and multiple perspectives. I shouldn't have included Mahogany, that wood is very well known for it's superior stability.
  21. 1 point
    I think you should look hard at the Grizzly 1023. 3 hp, very good fence and will be a lifetime saw. I've had mine for over 3 years, and find it will cut through anything you can bring to it, with the right blades.
  22. 1 point
    Fair question.. I also know you have a little wiggle room. If you have 220 power, I would have to seriously consider the Grizzly 1023. 3HP saw, good fence, and no need for upgrades. From there, I would go with the Grizz that you're looking at and lastly, the Rigid.