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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/19 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Ok, @Spanky got me going to finish up this post. I had put my last coat of finish on the Rocker yesterday and so I went home at lunch to move it into the house and grab some pics. When I left off here I had to do the final sanding of the rockers and lower legs. Then it was wet down the whole rocker to raise the grain and then resand the whole rocker. Dye was applied next and again I had to resand the whole rocker! Once those very joyless tasks were completed I got to apply the finish and then for the first time see what this wood had to offer. Well it didn't disappoint, God made some beautiful wood here and Rickey was the man to find it! The wood is really the big star of this piece and the dye I used really made the figure POP. I hope @treeslayer approves. For the finish it was 3 coats of the Maloof oil/poly then 2 coats of Maloof oil/wax. Each coat was applied with a rag, let to sit and then rubbed down vigorously to remove all the excess. Last night as I was applying the last coat, I couldn't resist to snap a few pics of the figure. It really pops with the oil still wet; So finishing this was a complete joy. Here are a few pics of the chair; Some details. I love the horn detail, it seems so organic to me how it flows. Here's a shot of the headrest and the horns; Top of headrest flows into the front line or edge of the horn; Again you can see that flowing line and see how the cove of the horn flows into the concave area of the headrest; The contours of the bottom of the headrest; Inside of the arm detail; Great figure in the seat; Front leg detail; Leg to seat joints; Rocker to leg interface; And to wrap it up, here are the 3 rockers I've made this year, one from walnut, one out of cherry, and the last from some great Spanky curly maple; Thanks for following. Hopefully I was helpful with posting this build. I can't say enough how much I enjoy this build. I will likely not make another one of these until I get some white oak dried sufficiently. White oak is a slow drying wood, I need to be patient, most of it was milled last year. Total time was surprising to me, it went quicker than I thought it would. I was at 59.5 last post. This post added 3 hrs for all the sanding/wetting/resanding/staining/resanding. Applying the finish of all 5 coats was time consuming also, another 2 hrs. So my total time start to finish was 64.9 hrs, time well spent in my book!!!!
  2. 8 points
    Second installment. The sides of this piece are cut back, which narrows the corners and gives a longer and narrower space in which to form the pillars. This allows the pillars to be a little more dramatic. However I actually made a “mistake” in sequencing the steps on this project by removing that waste wood now rather than after the pillars were mostly formed. To explain briefly, whenever I turn one of these convolved forms I encounter end grain chip out from the trailing edges of two of the pillars. This occurs where the grain runs perpendicular to the tool path and the pillar is getting thin, in other words just as your approaching that final contour and you really don’t want chip out to happen. Since this frayed trailing edge would be within the waste wood, if you wait on the bandsawing you get to cut off the chip out. Well mostly, you still have to be careful, but you do get that extra insurance. In order to trim the waste wood at a later stage I would have needed to make a simple jig, rather than what I did below. I admit a little get done-itis thinking may have influenced my decision making. All in all this project has gone on for about 3 months, with a few false starts, so at this point I wanted to get rolling and not stop to make a jig. So I just used the miter gauge from the table saw being careful not to cut farther than the exact line dimensions. So here’s a trick on that point. Just because your machine has a motor does not mean that you have to switch it on. So with the power switch safety engaged I turn the drive wheel by hand and just eased up on the apex so as to not overshoot. I was a little off of the line on some of my cuts, but that accuracy was within tolerance given the sculpting to come. The next step is to transfer the 90 degree en face view to each of the four sides. This drawing was adjusted slightly to reflect the fact that the 90 degree view was being projected onto a non flat surface. This is probably not strictly necessary, after all you can only get so accurate with carbon paper transfer, but my MO is to be as exact as I can and it was actually not difficult to make the adjustment. There will be enough inaccuracies later; I don’t need to make it worse now. The piece is now mounted on the screw chuck. I want to remove some of the bulk material so I have drawn lines showing various depths I can go and for each depth I mark a diameter measuring from the corner inward. Having removed the bulk I have an odd wedding cake form. The drawings made on the outside of the form serve as a guide to the final contour. The actual shape will be determined by eye, but may be surprisingly close. After completing the outside of the base the red guide pins can be glued in place. Then I can move on to create a mortise in the bottom. I use the diamond tool to create a dovetail on the inside wall to match the dovetail on the chuck jaws. With the mortise done I can begin hollowing out the base, entering through the middle of the mortise. The Forstner hole is a head start on this tedious task. Notice how the guide pins are helpful for lining up the hollowing tool. The guide pins can be seen well while the wood is spinning, but it pays to stop periodically to peer inside and evaluate your progress. The guide holes are empty while the ends of the guide pins can be seen. Clearing out the inside is tedious even with the Forstner hole, but eventually the tool makes it to the outside. Since the sides were already cut back this point comes a little sooner—so there’s that. Notice that my trajectory has taken me closer to the lower pin than the upper. I’m still in the path, but I’ve lost the lower pin. The upper is still an adequate guide, especially because I can now see what I’m doing directly through the opening in the side of the form. Closing in on the upper pin, while following the guide holes to form the inner contours. You can see the end grain chip out on the left hand margin of the opening in this photo. It is getting uncomfortably close to the expected final contour. So time to chamfer the edge which I do with a Dremel and small sanding drum. This process has to be repeated periodically as the chamfer is cut away by further turning of the inside. Work at it long enough and you get something that’s starting to look like something. If I had not yet cut back the sides this would be the time for that operation. The problem as you might already see is that there are no longer any corners to line up with the saw blade, and the cut lines are also probably gone. The trick is to have a template already made with a screw and hole ready to attach the bowl just where the screw chuck was. This re-centers the bowl, but you do have to rotate the bowl to get the alignment just right. With a little thought and planning this works well and it’s what I did on the last project. So time to sand the outside and inside surfaces. At this stage I will leave the area of the mortise alone as this will be removed at a later step. For the remainder I start anywhere from P60 to P120 grit depending on the condition of the surface and how much tweaking the contour needs. It is possible to focus the coarse grits on an isolated rough patch so that you don’t have do all of the surfaces with all the grits. I also found the H. mahogany to be remarkably responsive to the sandpaper. At one point I accidentally went from 80 to 180 grit and actually had no problem. Typically at this stage I will not skip grits and work my way to P320. It will ultimately get sanded finer, but this is good for now. With the initial sanding completed I flip the piece, mounting the mortise to the chuck, then shape the top. Since there is no bowl this was pretty quick. The astute eye will notice that a crack has formed at the mortise ring. This ring was just too narrow for the mahogany. There were actually two cracks. And I got lucky. Very Lucky. I was able to complete the turning then dribble some thin CA in the cracks and release the chuck closing the cracks on the adhesive. That's why there is brown paper on the lathe bedways. It worked. I did drip a bit of CA on the chuck, but was able to easily remove this with acetone. By the way it's best to apply acetone with a brush or cotton swab, it readily goes through nitrile gloves. The base is now largely formed. At this stage it looks just like the 3D drawing. The next steps will be to turn off the mortise ring and then cut apart the top ring and sculpt the pillars. I will leave it as is for now as I will need to use the top ring to size the basin’s bottom, and there is a remote chance I will have to test my luck and turn the top ring further if it is not wide enough to allow a beautiful basin. But next is the basin.
  3. 3 points
    Now it's time to use it. I found out last night, after i got home late due to a 12 hour work day, that turning a couple quick things on a lathe is fun and relaxing. Your setup is beautiful and makes mine look like a joke but it works.
  4. 2 points
    One, I don’t understand it, two, I could never dream that up and three, there’s no way I’d ever attempt it. But You’ve done all three and looks darn good so far!
  5. 2 points
    Here's an idea I tried awhile back and have never left. Mill a bit of hardwood to fit inside the Incra tube. I milled a couple of feet and have not run out yet. It only takes a few inches to make a new "flag". I have a few "flags" for various tasks. They all change out quickly with one screw that happened to already have a hole in the extrusion. It was one of those cobbled together solutions that stuck with me. My miter gauge fence is highly modified from the original intent but, the addition of the sacrificial "flag" could still work on a stock tube.
  6. 1 point
    I would like to get some comments/ suggestions on a desk that I am designing for myself. It is taller than most desks since I have worked at a drafting table for many years and prefer the height and sloped surface. Top shelf is for 2 computer monitors. Shelve space behind the drawers a basically because no one needs a 24" deep drawers. I may do drawer fronts with book matched veneer - that looks continuous from drawer to drawer. Any comments welcome. I won't be offended.
  7. 1 point
    Absof***lutly beautiful job. And you have three? I'd go crazy trying to wear them out evenly. Top notch craftsmanship.
  8. 1 point
    First, all 3 woods, cherry, walnut and maple, were ideal for this project. The tiger maple with all its figure really turned up the wow factor and was very easy to work with. I've made 2 of these rockers before these 3, and those first two were cherry. Can't really say I have a favorite wood, I think all the woods worked similarly and all took just as long to sand. This chair is a real labor of love, by the time I'm done I've felt every surface, edge, joint, corner and roundover hundreds of times. The hand sanding is tiresome, but at least at that point you can see the chair and it's nice form and shape, that's enough to encourage one forward through the repetitive parts. In the end the tiger maple is by far the prettiest one I've built. That figure just popped! So I guess @Chet the tiger maple is my favorite. @JohnG Unfortunately for you they are all very comfortable! Actually the cherry rocker is a Christmas gift for my father. I'll keep the walnut and curly maple ones with me. I hope to make a few white oak ones for the porch in the future.
  9. 1 point
    Beautiful, beautiful work @Bmac and that dye really did it’s job on making that grain pop, that’s some of the finest work I’ve seen on here and an awesome trio that will last several lifetimes. Well done sir!
  10. 1 point
    Great looking family Awesome job and thanks for taking the time to journal it, this will be one of my go to resources when I do mine.
  11. 1 point
    Bmac: Great job !! That tiger is unbelievable.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I have had my A3/31 for about 14 years it has the straight blades and has worked very well for me. The newer ones are even better, tables don't butterfly open and the spiral cutter head come to mind. FWIW I had to replace a $20 capacitor a couple years back other than that no issues.
  14. 1 point
    Jim, I've been very happy with my Hammer A3-41. I got it with the spiral cutterhead. Felder is running a special on them right now. Swichover doesn't have to be a hassle. Here's a short video of the process that Kev shot while he was here last summer. I don't know if you have any travel plans for the holidays but if if you're coming anywhere near Santa Fe give me a heads up. You're welcome to check it out.
  15. 1 point
    Bmac, I keep looking for pics of the finished rocker?
  16. 1 point
    Ahhhhh! I see, I think I understand now, just don't ask me to do that!
  17. 1 point
    Or you could find a chunk of aluminum with some of the raw ore still stuck to it & make a live edge gauge.
  18. 1 point
    You could make the cut longer and fill the void with epoxy to make the first ever River (TM) miter gauge.
  19. 1 point
    Nice to finally deliver. And several wows were offered. We work for money, but the thanks and comments of appreciation along with the wows are a meaningful part of the pay. Dealing with nice people adds to the pleasure of the work. I had to bring the drawers back to the shop. I did not calculate the plastic that fits on top of the drawer sides to accommodate the hanging folders. It was 40 minutes round trip travel and 20 minutes to cut the sides a half inch. All is well!
  20. 1 point
    You could always consider it a gauge to find that angle again.
  21. 1 point
    Apparently you don’t have a SS or your story would have been longer!
  22. 1 point
    Just hack 1cm off the end. You didn't need a fence that long anyway. That sucks. I've been super careful with my miter gauges but i bet it's only time until I do this to one of mine as well. If it bothers you enough incra does sell replacement parts. https://www.incrementaltools.com/PARTS_INCRA_Miter_1000HD_p/pc-miter1000hd.htm
  23. 1 point
    We are building a version of this hall table ... We left off last time with basic preparation of stock from rough sawn boards .. A word of introduction before continuing: while I am best known for hand tool work, I am a blended woodworker and have a pretty full compliment of power tools, which I use. It is horses for courses - power does the grunt work and hands do the details and joinery. So there are machines here as well as hand tools, and I like to believe they coexist well in my builds, as they should. I began this session by turning the legs ... The Jarrah for the legs turned out a few shades lighter than expected, and I made an extra piece to experiment with different dye mixes. A final decision shall be made once the case is completed. The panels needed to sized, which involved measuring from the centre line of the book-matched panels. The quickest way to square this up was to mark a line (in blue tape), and plane to it ... much faster than using power saws, etc. Once done, you can square up on a jointer .. ... rip to width ... ... and cross cut ... Here are the panels for the case (sides yet to be dimensioned for height) ... Packed away for the night ... When marking the dovetails, it pays to work precisely. Mark carefully ... My favourite dovetail saw is usually the one I sharpened most recently. This is an original Independence Tools saw by Pete Taran (circa 1995) .. Completed side panels ... It begins to be a little more fun as I get to use one of the features I recently built into my new Moxon vise - the Microjig clamps (details of Moxon vise here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/TheLastMoxon.html). These are used to hold the tail board to transfer to the pin board ... Here you see the transferred tails outline in blue tape (easier to see in the hard wood). On the left is a model of the mitred ends that will be part of this build ... Saw the pins ... Note that the end pins are not sawn on the outsides. Now turn the board around, and strike a vertical line at the outer pin ... Saw this on the diagonal only. Do both sides ... Place the board flat on the bench and create a chisel wall for each pin (earlier, this would have been done for each tail) ... The chisel wall will make it easier to create a coplanar baseline when removing the waste (by preventing the chisel moving back over the line). Do this on both sides of the board before proceeding. Now you can fretsaw away the waste. Try and get this to about 1mm above the baseline ... Here is a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs To create the mitred ends, first mark ... ... and saw about 1mm from the line. This will later be flushed with a chisel for accuracy. And so this is where we are up to at the end of the weekend ... So will the sides fit ... or won't they .... mmmmm Regards from Perth Derek
  24. 1 point
    The factor that causes movement is the difference in expansion or shrinkage between the radial direction inside the board and the tangential. Radial is the change in diameter of the log and tangential is the change along the growth rings. This is often expressed as a ratio. The closer to 1 of the ratio the more stable the wood is going to be. Also the lower the percentage of shrinkage in either direction the more stable the wood will be and the less it will change size. If the ratio is 1 and the percentage is 15% it'll move a lot but would in theory be stable. Wood is natural and theory goes out the window so don't count on that. Some common hardwoods are screen shot below from wood database. Cherry and Oak are on the more unstable size with TRs of 1.9 & 2.2 Walnut is quite stable as is Mahogany. Despite walnut having a low TR it's higher shrinkage tend to give it a worse reputation as far as stability is concerned when compared to Mahogany. Mahogany is well known for being a very stable wood. Below are the SPF softwoods with WRC included for comparison. In conclusion it's not clearly cut and dry this is also a small sample but on average softwoods have lower shrinkage numbers and better TR ratios. Like everything that depends on the species and most importantly how the log is sawn. From my under standing spruce is more common in smaller boards like 2x4s and it's specs reflect the reality that those boards move a lot more. Fir is more stable and has better properties all around which is why it's more common in larger lumber. This is all regional dependent. SE everything is likely to be SYP west coast is likely to be fir. This is all information learned from listening/reading Shannon Rodgers. Lumber Industry Update has a lot of good information on all things wood though it's from a single person with their bias in it so i can't say that i have multiple sources and multiple perspectives. I shouldn't have included Mahogany, that wood is very well known for it's superior stability.
  25. 0 points
    Until today. I set the incra mitre gauge close to the blade to give as much support as possible for a small piece of timber to cut some angles. Once done, I set the angle (saw tilts to the right) and then made my cut. I wondered for a second where the aluminium shavings were coming from. It wasn’t a smart moment.