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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/06/19 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    I return now to completing the base. As it stands the base still retains the “disappearing mortise ring” and this needs to be removed with final shaping of the lower third of the inside of the base. The whole base then needs more sanding to bring it to a P600 finish. So the first step is to mount the base onto the Longworth chuck then capture with the donut attachment. With the base secured the bulk of the material can be removed, then the donut removed and the final contour achieved. Then sanding of the entire piece to P600. The next stage is to remove the unwanted portions of the top ring and sculpt the pillars. I marked out the location and approximate form I expected the pillars to take as they rose up and curved inward. Then I drew some pencil lines giving the tape a wide margin to to show what I could safely waste. I planned to use the bandsaw to cut these lines, but it was difficult to be sure where the kerf would occur with the complex curve of this surface. So I hit upon this idea. Using a strong light with a single LED source and positioning the base carefully using wedges I was able to line up a very sharply defined shadow from the bandsaw blade showing me where the cut would occur. This was surprisingly effective, and I repeated the test for all three permutations of the cut. These circumstances are unusual, but keep this trick in your pocket should you ever be in a similar situation. However, after studying the bandsaw options and consulting all ten fingers I decided to use a hand saw and simply saw through one side of the ring at a time. Cutting two side of the ring at once just didn’t offer any real benefit. I then repositioned the masking tape to more carefully mark out the intended shape for the pillar, and here I ran into a small problem. When I had originally conceived the piece I had just planned to have the pillars taper more or less continuously from the wider lower segment up and around to the inside. However, I was not able to drawn this design in Fusion 360. I was only able to make a crude representation, which at the time looked crude, but I believed would look good when I could see it for real. It didn’t. It looked crude. In a butt ugly sort of way. So I began sketching out different ideas and must have gone through at least eight renditions. Unfortunately at this point I had already cut away the top ring on the assumption that the pillars would have a simple taper. Fortunately I had left that wiggle room. After several trials I settled on my design and cut this out of post-it note material, the kind with adhesive all over. Then I traced the design onto all of the pillars. It was very important to get the tips exactly centered. So I stretched a rubber band around the base getting this on the high point of the curvature of the pillar, then sighting down with both top and bottom of the rubber band aligned I was able to mark the centers for the tips. Cole jaws (with the lathe switched off) make for a poor man’s carving vice. I like to use a small sanding drum on the Dremel to shape the edges of the pillars. Eventually I’ll have a Foredom or Mastercarver, but in the meantime I have bought a flexible shaft attachment for the Dremel and this has been a big help. Diamond rifflers and triangle file are also part of my standard kit when a bit of sculpting is needed. These are followed with sandpaper, again to P600. The base is nearly completed. Notice that the side of the pillar is not simply a flat surface, but that this plane twists as it rises from the cusp of the V to the pillar’s inwardly bent tip. I feel this small detail adds quite a bit grace and curve to the pillar. The last detail before surface coating is the brand. Using the flat tool rest to reference the heated iron I put my mark on the bottom edge of the base, which by design is just big enough. Applying the surface coating is the last step, and more than the usual challenge. Neither the basin nor base really has a distinct and well defined top and bottom, hence there is no place to break off with the varnish application. So the entire piece has to be coated at once begging two questions, how do you hold it, and how do you put it down. I use Bartley Gel Varnish which is very viscous (more so than the General Finishes product). It applies easily and quickly with rags; wipe on, wipe off, and buff after which it has very low tack. So I applied the varnish with one hand while holding the piece in my other hand using a large rag. Then I used this large rag for a light two handed second buffing before putting the piece down to cure on a newly procured non stick baking sheet. The baking sheet worked great. And yes tested with a drop of finish and the cured finish does not stick. And that’s the end of this project. Finale pictures of the completed piece just need a little tweaking, but will be posted shortly.
  2. 8 points
    Here are some pictures of the final result. I call this piece "Offering".
  3. 6 points
    I took a couple hour break from the dining table Sunday to make a shelf unit to go next to my miter saw. I just had 2 shelves here before, they were small and tilting away from the wall so objects were likely to roll off. It was instigated by that and also i got sick of the plywood cutoffs from the bed platform project. After that I milled up 3 pieces of birch to make the stretcher. The stretcher is going to be 46" long with 2 4" long tenons so the legs will be spaced ~38" This will put the leg near the outside knee of someone sitting at the table. With the trestle design their knee shouldn't be close to the leg at all though. The through mortises were already cut before the trestle legs were glued up so after the beam glue was dry and 3 handles were turned on my lathe i cut the giant tenons. Only tricky part is getting them sized perfectly to the mortise but still slide on easily. My trick for this is simple. The only critical part that needs to be perfect to eliminate gaps is the portion of the tenon that is right at the face of the leg. I know the legs are 2.125" thick (yeah they are beefy), so i put a mark on the tenon at this point. Now i undersized the tenon everywhere except for 1/4" in either direction from my mark. It's sort of like back cutting a shoulder. These tenons are going to be wedged so glue surface isn't an issue at all which is why this trick is so nice. If you put a strait edge on the tenon each of the 4 surfaces will bulge out slightly 2" down the tenon. The above picture with zero gaps is quite nice. Next is to cut the shape on the stretcher and then create the mortises in the tenons for the wedges. After that I'll keep working on the benches. The remaining lumber i have for the top needs to dry some more. It's sitting around 11% but I'd like to see that at 10% before I start. This birch is a dream to work with.
  4. 2 points
    Finally got it with no scratch marks. Now I know how much anding is required. Used timbermate wood filler (veneer had holes too deep for pumice to fill) and then sanded up to 400 grit. Then french polish with 2# cut shellac. Took 4 sessions. 3 to build the finish and one for final polish. It looks better in person and feels great. Only the top got the french polish.
  5. 2 points
    So about 9 months after this post I bought a Laguna 14bx 2.5hp bandsaw. It's a fantastic saw - I'm still learning of course, but I'm loving the fact that it has substantial horsepower and a reasonable resaw capacity. I bought it from Amazon of all places. Laguna was selling all their saws at 10% off at pretty much all their dealers, and Amazon would deliver it to my house for free so it made the most sense for me to purchase it from them. When it was delivered, the weld that holds the main vertical body to the horizontal base was broken and as a result, the whole thing was wobbly. Fortunately Amazon was happy to ship a replacement and pick up the broken one quickly. The second saw arrived in perfect condition and I've been happily sawing away. Just figured I'd update this post with the outcome. Thanks again for everyone's help!
  6. 2 points
    Been working on this one slowly and steadily over the last couple weeks. I cut a bunch of material to rough length and width to make 3 ply parts for the trestles. I'm not measuring how much wood I'm using I'm just kinda guessing. The route that i'm planning on going will be a bit more wasteful but I think the result is going to look somewhat nicer. Got all of the parts matched and made sure the defects were towards the inside. Using 3 plys allows a lot of the bad material to be used for the center ply as long as you make sure to account for the fact that some cutting and shaping will be done. I put a lot of bad looking knots towards the middle which is nice. I used a good 75% of my clamps here. I utilized some of the offcuts from making the table trestle legs to glue up the legs for the benches. I figured I'd get 1.5" x 3" blanks to do some sore of MCM taper for the bench legs to make an attempt to match the style for the trestle. I have an idea but I don't have it on paper so you'll have to follow along to see the end of that one. I ganged all the legs together and glued them up in 1 batch. Made things nice. I brought this wood in my shop November 24th. Which happened to be the same day that I found the rotten wood on my shop window. The wood came in my shop 7 days ago at 20% MC according to my pinless meter. Today it measured 12-13%. EMC in my shop for this wood is 10-11% so it dropped the moisture fast which is surprising for air dried lumber. This air dried paper birch is a dream to work. With handtools it works similar to KD walnut except is nicer in some ways. I"m really enjoying this wood a lot. I"m glad i have another 200 BF in my shed . To make the trestle legs i figured it was easier to make 2 blocks and then glue them together up the center. This allows me to make a really easy but perfect through mortise for the stretcher. If you look close you can see the design drawn out to be cut on the band saw. After I cut the first side out I cleaned up all the sides with a combination of my #4, a spoke shave, a card scraper, and a wide chisel. The chisel allowed me to keep the hard inside corner instead of letting it get rounded. I then used the completed side to trace the outline on the other 3 parts. These are very thick so template routing would be tricky and I HATE template routing. Hand tools have MUCH less pucker factor. The top and bottom parts of the trestle were shapped the same way but took a lot less effort as the bends were a lot less harsh. Using strait square blocks allowed the joinery to take place on square faces. This way I didn't have to fuss with odd angles or what not. Where the joinery goes everything is strait and square. Easy peasy. Joinery is going to be floating mortise and tenon. I"m using 1.5" wide tenon stock with ~1" deep mortises. I will be double stacking these on each "leg" So there will be 8 tenons per side. I used my favorite mortise machine and plunged twice side by side to get a 1.75" wide mortise. I made it a bit over sized to make sure that i had some wiggle room while I'm gluing up. I could use the store purchased stock but i honestly don't think the glue bond is as good. I'm leery of all the stuff they stamp in the surface i honestly think that it reduces the effective glue area. Personal opinion backed up by zero evidence. Beings that the stock is scraps that was in the burn pile the floating tenon stock is free so that's probably where my bias comes in. Next up is the stretcher and see how the bench legs shape up.
  7. 1 point
    Still alive . Both knees replaced, bring on the pain and let the fun begin I have wood needing worked......coop I'm speaking about lumber.
  8. 1 point
    Coop, You ain't the only one AND I Ain't kidding Is it possible your wives are overestimating how much game you guys have? I kid! I kid!
  9. 1 point
    Thank you everyone, I really appreciate your kind remarks. It's very encouraging. Thank you folks for following. I was worried this would be too long and too much detail. We had that in common. There were lots of "well now how in the heck am I going to get from here to there" momments. I usually sleep on a problem like that which might explain why this took so many months.
  10. 1 point
    I have the Cutech 8" jointer with the teflon bed and the helical cutter head with high speed steel blades. I bought it in a combo pack with the 12.5" planer with helical cutter head and high speed steel blades. I love the jointer, the planer is just OK. I only got into woodworking last year so I've never operated a full size floor standing jointer or planer - so my opinion only has so much value. The jointer has extensions that are surprisingly stable. The fence is extruded aluminum, and it's a little bit of a pain to calibrate, but it holds true once it's set up. The cutterheads do a nice job, the motor seems powerful enough. I have a pretty small basement shop, so I'm not sure I'll ever have room for a full size floor standing jointer - so this one does a nice enough job and the price is right. The planer is so-so. It bogs out pretty easily and I can't seem to get the snipe out, so I've given up on that. Both tools are available from other manufacturers. Cutech (now Wahuda I guess) had the best features (the helical cutterheads, teflon coated bed, few other things) and the best price. I'd buy the DW735 if I was buying a planer again, but for the jointer - I'm not aware of other better benchtop options.
  11. 1 point
    I'd only use ipe with carbide tools. I went through a ton of HSS drill bits just drilling the screw holes on my decking.
  12. 1 point
    That's exactly how I do it. A shallow circumferential cut then bend the cable. If the remainder of the sheath doesn't part on its own, then careful cuts with a box cutter will finish the job without the blade ever touching the wire insulation.
  13. 1 point
    I'm gonna stick to furniture.....
  14. 1 point
    Nice to finally deliver. And several wows were offered. We work for money, but the thanks and comments of appreciation along with the wows are a meaningful part of the pay. Dealing with nice people adds to the pleasure of the work. I had to bring the drawers back to the shop. I did not calculate the plastic that fits on top of the drawer sides to accommodate the hanging folders. It was 40 minutes round trip travel and 20 minutes to cut the sides a half inch. All is well!
  15. 1 point
    Hello guys, I wanted to show you my last job. I built a mini carpenter workbench. maybe for many it is nothing special but for me that I work in the garage and I have little space it allows me to do carpentry work with more precision but important to be able to use the plane. You can rest it on the bench and fix it with bench vises I hope you like it for the moment I'm satisfied. This the video walktrought https://youtu.be/6Fodk-yAW7M
  16. 1 point
    This is a better picture taken by the clients new iPhone . The camera is much improved. Here are the pulls provided by the client. I will try to get some pics when delivered and in place. In my eye, the stain makes it look like a non stained piece 20 years old. But my guess is the 20year non stained piece will look better. The continuing grain on the drawer faces is almost a non event due to staining. The keys are the same for each drawer.
  17. 1 point
    Hi everyone! I’m an older member who doesn’t post often, but here’s my latest finished piece: