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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/31/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    My daughter is in competitive gymnastics. She had a pretty good year. These are walnut shelves that I attached using hand cut sliding dove tails..... Just kidding, I just screwed them in from the back. The back is cherry ply.
  2. 5 points
    OK, time for New Years woodworking resolutions. My chief resolve is to re-organize my shop and build shop furniture to create a more efficient space. I'm not actually going to do any of this, but I thought I should lay out what I'm going to feel most guilty about.
  3. 4 points
    Happy Birthday! Every time I have one, people ask me what I did, or got, for my Birthday. I always tell them that I don't care much about doing, or getting anything for a Birthday. As long as I keep having them, I'm good.
  4. 3 points
    Huge props to Lee Valley - I filed a claim with UPS regarding the missing package, since my ...very observant... neighbor didn't ever see packages sitting on our porch. They recommended notifying the vendors, so I emailed Lee Valley late last night and told them the whole situation. Just got an email back and they are sending another one free of charge. I know that this may be covered by their insurance or be budgeted for, but it's still great to quickly receive a cheerful response that resolves the problem in the best way possible. Definitely will be a repeat customer.
  5. 3 points
    Fits mirror perfect. Jus need to add a couple outside layers for the rabbit...
  6. 3 points
    I would take it where I use to work and run it through the SCM planer sander.. quick work... I got friends in low places...
  7. 3 points
    I’m sure, after consulting with your upholstery guy, he can iron out the cushion question with you. With your experience on the shaping and joinery of Maloof’s chairs, there’s probably no better suggestions than the ones you posted. I, like others, question the functionality of the pictured design, other than a place to relax for a long period of time. I.e., getting in and out of it, just too relaxing if that can be a problem. And that’s the problem I had with building Adirondack chairs. I played with different angles until I found one that was not only comfortable but also one that made it easy for an old man to get out of to retrieve a cold beer. My suggestion, and it’s like a student teaching the professor, is to build a prototype from ply and clamps/screws to get your seat back and back legs to floor angles. But I bet you’re already one step ahead of me on that. You’ve raised the bar if that’s possible, on this one bud. Certainly looking forward to this build.
  8. 3 points
    Be very careful. When you have a top with grain running all different directions (like puzzle pieces?) separated with straight or curved edges, it is likely that you have thin veneer. It is very easy to sand through the veneer and expose the sub-straight. Then the top will be very difficult to repair. A photo might help us some.
  9. 2 points
    My new years resolution is to build a cedar strip canoe. There isn't a hopes chance in .... that it'll happen but I really want one. There are so many beautiful rivers around here that I'd love to canoe down.
  10. 2 points
    I don't see why you can't remove a door just because it's a rental. It's not like you're not going to put it back. The only way you have a hope of getting the color close is if you have that original sample with you.
  11. 2 points
    Congratulations to you and your daughter Jim, you for raising her right and to her for being the best many times over, she must really be a superwoman!
  12. 2 points
    @woodydixon I discovered if you leave extra space between the tool and the cutter on your string sizer, to make it thinner just hold a thumbnail against it and press a little. You can make the string thinner than the gap on the tool. Also helps when you have a stubborn spot in the string that doesn’t want to be neatly pulled through the tool. Just lift to a higher spot on the blade and use your thumbnail. It won’t get stuck. Finally started the stringing on my Pennsylvania spice box
  13. 2 points
    That solved, I was free to start to stringing on the door face. The previously troublesome arc was actually two arcs, so that presented a challenge but I got it done.
  14. 2 points
    I got stuck with the challenge of a groove on the curved stretcher atop the door. Started making a jig, because the bearing on my slot cutter was way too small... never had a satisfactory answer to a jig, although I did start building one. Eventually I came up with the idea - because I didn’t want to drive into town and buy a bearing - make one of the bearings I had, bigger. Out comes the heater tape and 13 layers later I gave it a shot. Don’t try this at home... but it worked.
  15. 2 points
    Mileage requires tires and my tires are tired. Badda boom!
  16. 2 points
    Rick, that's approximately one trip around the sun.
  17. 2 points
    Hang on to that, that will be good evidence when the POS is caught!
  18. 2 points
    Couple more. No more inside just going out for the groove for the mirror...
  19. 2 points
    I want to make sure the seats end up being roughly the same so I took the template for the guild rocker seat and glued it to a board. I'll cut out the open side and use that as a template when I need to create the carved area on the seats. I also trimmed the bottom side ( the solid paper side) to the desired edge of the seat. This will allow me to get each seat close to identical. Well close enough. Each one of these chairs is going to be slightly different there is just no way around that. After that I finished my leg routing jig. I attached the clamps to the jig and added some adhesive sand paper to make sure that the leg blank wouldn't move. After I got everything set up I gave it a test run. I managed to make 2 near identical legs both of which were perfectly square in the joinery section. The trial did show me a few places where the jig could be improved. The ends of the back rest area end up being too far from the clamp and the router bit causes a bit of deflection in the wood. It's not a lot but it's enough that it makes the routing operation sketchy and caused some issues with cut quality. In the picture of the jig above I'm going to add another block and clamp to the side closest the camera. Once i get everything ironed out I'll give some more details on the jigs in use. The next major item to make is the bent lamination jig for the back rest. I thought about making the back rest bend in 2 different planes so it would support the lumbar and also cup the back, but just thinking about it gave me nightmares so i figured doing it would be even worse. So i abandoned that. I printed the back rest template from the guild dining chair plans and decided to stick with curves only in 1 plane. I'm making the bending form a bit different from other methods I've used. I read an article from FWW about making bending forms and from it i realized there is a better way than using solid lamination of plywood. The form started like all other forms I put the paper template on the front, cut out the negative shape on the band saw, then cleaned back to the lines. The change or difference is that instead of building up each layer with solid plywood, I glued pieces of wood as braces in between. The wood I ended up using is cedar scraps, I planed them clean to an even 1/2" and used 2 glued together to add a 1" space between each piece of plywood. This allows me to save a TON of plywood. Not only was I able to make the bending form more stable and stronger this way but it allowed me to use scraps I needed to dispose of, and it made it lighter. My form needs to be 8" wide and being as large as it was using solid ply it would have weighed far too much. Here is a shot of the bending form that shows the structure well. Another trick from the article is to use flexible cauls that get glued together with epoxy. These cauls will bridge any gaps that may be created due to imperfect shaping. Knowing what I know now and how well these cauls will bridge the gaps I'd have gone with 3 rows of bracing instead of 4 to save even more weight. I could have gone thicker with them as well and eliminated a row of plywood. Beings that the bendable cauls need to be glued together I'd need to simulate a true run of the form. So i planed done some redwood scraps that were destined for the fire pit to act as filler and simulate a back rest. If i didn't add material inside the cauls would glue them selves to a shape that wouldn't work once you added the laminations for the back rest into the form. This wood won't be wasted as I'll do a trial run with the redwood to see how the bending form works. I will also use it to figure out how I'm goign to cut the negative space out of each back rest. To create the cauls I used 1/8" mdf or hardboard, I'm not sure the difference between them, but it's a flexible material. I spread epoxy on the material and in hindsight may have needed to add more than I did. The surface absorbed some of the epoxy and I'm left wondering if I got a good bond. I'll find out tonight when I strip the form. My bending form did have some gaps in it. In the picture below I added some cork in areas where the hardboard was unsupported in my dry run. I also added some blue tape towards the ends where again things weren't clamping as well as they should. This is where it sits. I'm waiting at least 24 hours for the epoxy to cure. I should get a hardener that cures faster but that would reduce my open/working time. I expect it's going to take me 2-3 weeks just to cut the laminations, sand them to thickness, bend them, and then clean up the finished product. My goal thickness is 1/2" for the backrest.
  20. 1 point
    Don't you mean "Finish my dang basement and make some furniture watch some movies!"
  21. 1 point
    Finish my dang basement and make some furniture 1. Morris chair 2. Make 4 or 5 Marcos Amato style bar stools for the basement bar. https://www.marcosamato.com.br/banco-barba-negra 3. Maloof rocker Ok so maybe this is being a bit overzealous but hey who knows LOL
  22. 1 point
    I tend to agree with wtnhighlander. However, sorry for my paranoia. I have made this mistake and would like to help you keep from making it. Just to be sure about the veneer, if you can find a manufacturer's label or stamp (probably on the underside of the top), you could contact them to see if it is actually a veneer. Also, try looking at the very edge where the leaves join one another with strong magnifying lens (a 10x jewelers loop works well) look to see if you can see a telltale "layering" or glue line separating the substrate from the veneer. Sometimes this is obvious even to the naked eye. One thing that could be misleading is that even if the main part of the top is veneer, it is quite possible that the edge boards (where the damaged area is) are solid. The bullnosed edge would be a strong indicator of that. So, don't let the appearance of the damage spot tell you anything about the rest of the table surface. Also, the fact of the edge board which is cross-grain to the central part of the table is a very strong indicator that the top is veneered. Because of wood movement issues under changing temp/humidity conditions, no knowledgeable wood worker or manufacturer would do that with solid wood. Of course, they could be assembled as breadboard ends. I doubt it. I would wager that the edge boards are solid wood and the central part is veneered particle board or MDF. I must respectfully disagree with Ronn W. The table I almost ruined had the same veneer on the bottom and that is why I almost ruined it. And, it is common for good quality veneered furniture to be veneered on both sides for stability. However, he makes a good point about using the underside to experiment. I suggest that you use a small chisel to gouge a small hole in the bottom of one of the table leaves. Go about 3/16" to 1/4" deep and make sure you have a clean smooth cut on the side. If you find solid wood (oak) without a veneer, this would be a good sign but no guarantee. If you find particle board or MDF under a veneer, you can be sure it is also a veneered top. If you are still unsure, try taking a leaf to a local woodworking shop and see if they can make the determination for you. Pay them for their time. Please let us know how it works out. Good luck.
  23. 1 point
    So, the dark color is the end goal? And you just haven't done the leaf yet, correct? While the close-up of the 'chip' at the corner of the leaf isn't 100% conclusive, I do see the grain lines continuing through it. The leads me to believe that piece is solid wood, not veneer. Given that the table appears to be of red oak, an abundant and inexpensive hardwood, chances are good that it is all solid. I feel pretty confident that you can sand it thoroughly without worry. Is the 'gel stain' product you used one that includes color AND final finish (like Minwax Polyshades), or is it color only? The images show scratches that APPEAR to be just in the finish, but since you sanded after applying the gel stain, they could be masking deeper scratches in the wood. IMO, using a random-orbit sander will help you tremendously. If this is a one-time project, you can buy one from Harbor Freight tools for around $30 to minimize your investment. It will get the job done as well as any, but don't expect it to last forever. And keep the receipt, as HF tools sometimes fail to work out of the box, but their return pokicy is good. Anyway, I would try starting with 320 grit on the part that is already stained, and work to higher grits, to see if smoothing the finish itself cures the problem. Use light pressure on the sander, it can still remove finish to bare wood quickly.
  24. 1 point
    Thx.. been wanting to do something in the bath . Thanks to pinterest for the photo suggestion. Good way to salvage a mirror from trash.. Didn't want to use a rabbet bit as it would probably tear the wood so I made my own rabbet with wider wood. The total thickness will be 1 1/8...
  25. 1 point
    Easier than unscrewing a door would be to remove a drawer.
  26. 1 point
    Historically I need a 12" jointer once or twice a year. My 8" does a fine job for most of my work. If I had wide stock in the past I have ripped and rejoined the wood. Most can't see it. Or I have loaded the wood in my truck and driven 3 or 4 miles to a friendly shop. The rule is show up between 4 and 5 and bring a 12 pack. Then they would turn me loose on the 12" powermatic. Nice machine. Now a better choice is 2 blocks away. Included is A new table saw with a 3' plus crosscut sled. On the right project that could save a lot of time.
  27. 1 point
    I'd do a face grain or edge grain board. I don't get the appear for end grain. You could make a long grain board thinner and lighter and not have to worry about the size. End grain spanning 32" makes me nervous especially if you are using it to gain counter space. One heavy item set in the center could cause disaster. The glue joints aren't the worry the wood splitting is more the worry. Maybe ism over stating this and being overly cautious. This is my opinion, one of these days I should make something end grain and try and break it to see how strong it is. If you want something striking and eye catching try Some one else gave me the idea so I give credit to that person.
  28. 1 point
    I'd put some dye in shellac and spray on a light coat. It's going to be really hard to get a match if you can't do some trial and error. It'd be very nice if there was some piece that you could bring back with you. You'd then want to top coat the shellac with some WB poly again. It's starting to sound like too many coats. This is why I'll never promise even getting close to a color match. Other things to consider is they may match now but when the finish yellows and UV light changes the color of the poly and the wood the existing a new could start deviating in color. Depending on the wood and location this could happen quickly.
  29. 1 point
    DNA is more reliable than fingerprints, according to my LEO friends. The paper will have both.
  30. 1 point
    Chip, that's exactly the sort of solution I tend to come up with! For future projects, you might try cutting the inner radius of the arch smaller, by the offset between your slot cutter's full depth and groove depth you want. Route the groove, then re-cut the arc to the desired radius.
  31. 1 point
    That IS cool! Well done and congrats to her!
  32. 1 point
    Thats a nice looking display rack. And that is an impressive collection of hardware she has there.
  33. 1 point
    There’s a sequence ro these things and I hope I’m getting it right! I cut the two circles and started the “leaves” just one side for now. Tomorrow will be the other sides.
  34. 1 point
    2x3.... strips planed down to just over 1/8. Too thick and it would disfigured the shape.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    @RichardA Congratulations on racking up another 585,000,000 miles, Rick!
  37. 1 point
    @Jeannine, can you post a photo or three of the table? Something to show us what you are working with helps capture better / more specific answers.
  38. 1 point
    Before electric sanders.... you'll probably need many grits low to high. You'll need a high grit like 1000. Towards the end to not see the scratches from the provides grits. A lot of work but you can go through thin veneer if not careful. #1...is the table newly built or just refinishing an old table?
  39. 1 point
    Ron gives good advise! Random orbit sander.. Progress through the grits 120, 150, 180, 220. Each progression removes the scratches from the last grit. I use 400 grit to block out between coats. Since this is only working on the finish and not the wood, I use a block and sand very lightly. This is only to remove dust nibs or, perhaps, a slightly raised grain.
  40. 1 point
    I'm sure the writer of the note sees themselves a pretty cute. I just think they're an a$$hole that can put on a veneer of civilization.
  41. 1 point
    Happy Birthday Ole Timer!!!!
  42. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. Sanding is not hard but is easy to screw up. The shinier the finish the more scratches become visible. Woith bare wood -Start with the finest grit that will take any existing scratches out and the progress through the grits until you get to your final desired bare wood smoothness. Biggest mistakes are skipping a grit or not sanding enough with each of the grits (ie leaving scratch marks frm the previous grit) If I were starting with 80 grit, I would prgress through 80 -120-150-220-320-400. Start with any grit and end with any grit, depending on your project but don't skip any in between. And be sure to sand enough with each grit to remove the marks from the previous grit. ( It is not unusual for scratch marks to show up during the finishing process that you could not see before). With your varying grain direction I would suggest using a random orbital sander. With your varying grain direction I would suggest using a random orbital sander. You don't mention what the final finish would be so I assume that it will be a polyurethane varnish or a wiping varnish - a nice smooth finish but not super shiny. Another coat of stain will not correct the scratches. Unfortunately you need to go back to sanding. I would not use 200 grit after staining. That's too coarse. After staining (unless you are doing some special effects) all you want to do is smooth out any wood fibers that have been raised by the stain. I would lightly use 320 ro 400 grit. By hand. The people on this forum have a lot of experience and will, no doubt have some additional thoughts. Again, welcome.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Oh that's not that much. We probably got 22" earlier this year and in the last 7 days it all almost melted. If we only had 9" I'd have grass again. I was dreaming about a brown Christmas, a white Christmas is drastically over rated.
  45. 1 point
    Pattern is feeling a bit springy and won't hold shape yet. Put a few more layers on and see then...some of these clamps are pretty stif1f or I'm just getting old..
  46. 1 point
    I bought a container at Dollar General for $6.25. It holds 50 clamps and is good for storage. I need two more...I get tired of clamping ,unclamping clamps . Better in a container. My hand have become weaker with age. 2" getting harder to squeeze..
  47. 1 point
    And laid into a piece of oak scrap. Might make a good coaster Not ready for prime time but decent for a first attempt.
  48. 0 points
    Here in Minnesota our porch pirates are extremely polite. http://www.citypages.com/news/note-leaving-porch-pirate-steals-shit-in-most-minnesota-way-possible/566173231