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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/09/20 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    You're starting to make Drew look a bit like a tortoise. The rest of us are still trying to learn how to spell our names.
  2. 2 points
    Made some progress, but not a big update. So as I mentioned before the side leg houses almost all the joinery, and I need to develop legs that match each other and has certain correct relationships. In the front of the leg we need to do our front leg joint, a Maloof joint. I'll need flat areas to run the router and those flat areas need to match leg to leg and the top part of the leg needs to be parallel to the bottom of the leg. Also the angle of the flat surface on the stem for the backrest support needs to have the correct relationship to the front area. Finally, the length of the legs need to match. So to accomplish this I started with the backrest stem. I clapped the legs together and using a hand plane I worked the joint surface of the stem flat, at a right angle to the exterior face of the leg, and worked it so both stems matched perfectly (which was easy since they were clamped together). Then, while the legs were still clamped together I went to the bandsaw and cut my top line in the front of the side leg and cut the front length for the leg. Then hand planed again these two surfaces until they were flat, at a right angle to the exterior face and so that both legs matched. So in the pic below you can see uniform stem joint areas and the front part of the side leg has matching flat surfaces on the top part of the leg; Last thing I needed to do was cut the underside of the front part to make that surface parallel to the top. Did that on the tablesaw, no problems. On to the joint for the backrest support, used stacked dominos here, piece of cake; And finally for this post I cut my slot for the Maloof joint that connects the front leg to the seat frame. Ready for the router plane; So those slots were cut into the outer side of the leg/seat side piece. Things are bulky now, and that's on purpose. I need flat surfaces to run my router on. Once I rout out the Maloof joint I'll scribe some lines and go to the bandsaw to cut away some of the excess off the top and bottom of the side leg complex. I'll likely cut into this front leg joint. So far so good. I hope to get the frame of this chair put together by the end of this weekend.
  3. 2 points
    What if you made two different for the "head of the table" and the opposite end. Maybe even add arm rests or some other feature to make them stand out a little. This is pretty common when you look at dining sets.
  4. 2 points
    +2, although I sometimes use alcohol on the rollers. Waxing the bed seems to help the most. Another thought: the design uses intake air for the chip ejector fan to cool the motor. If any of the shroud is broken, or clogged with chips, that may also allow the motor to overheat, which will also trip the overload breaker.
  5. 1 point
    I finally caught up on this. Amazing work and it's clear that you've developed a process that works for you. The pictures of all 3 together are great!
  6. 1 point
    I gave it some thought but that was a fleeting moment.
  7. 1 point
    I like the way you say “we” when you perform a function. Makes me fell like I’m there and part of it. However, if you make a mistake, try to remember to make it singular.
  8. 1 point
    I've been watching too much Frank Howarth wood turning lately but from it I stumbled upon the Celtic Knot on youtube and it looked both easy and awesome. Much more attainable than some of the things Howarth does. Beings that not many turners post her I figured why not create a dedicated post. I found a tutorial that makes it really easy. You start with a piece of square stock and set your miter gauge to 45 or 60 degrees. Really I'm not sure the angle matters a whole lot the outcome will just look a bit different. Se your blade height so you don't cut all the way through. Leave about 1/8" of material. Have a stop block set or if your fancy like me and have one of these over the top miter gauges use the built in stop. First cut. Then take some wood or something else that you have prepped to your saw kerf width. I'm using birch stock and walnut fill. To glue the filler in get CA glue in the slice as well as coat the sides of the infill piece. I used gloves to prevent myself from having to call for help after gluing myself to my table saw or something. After the in fill piece is in I hit the outside of the piece with some activator and sanded everything flush with my belt sander. Yes i have a belt sander, no I don't use it often, this is the first time in about 2 years. After the first cut rotate the stock 90 degrees spindle style and make a 2nd cut. Same thing with CA glue on the infill and belt sanding. This is what my piece looked like after rotation 90 degrees. You can also see the miter gauge setup and stop block After the infill is glued and flushed. Rotate 90 degrees again spindle fashion, cut, fill, sand. This is what it looks like before the 90 degree rotation. As you can see the saw blade is lined up on the walnut from the previous cut. I was rotation counter clock wise from the picture below's perspective. Make sure to always rotate the same direction either clockwise or counter clock wise (anti-clockwise if your from Europe). After 3rd cut. The other side. As you can see the top face does not have a diagional. My last cut will position that side down. After all 4 sides are cut you should have a top line and bottom line with a diagonal on each side. You would see an X if you use other methods where you cut all the way through but those methods leave you with a more difficult glue up. Once you turn the area down a bit you'll see this. This was just a test. It only took me about 2 hours from first picture to last picture. Gotta love how fast you can make things on the lathe.
  9. 1 point
    You're making good progress, B. I'd still be looking at pictures.